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Post by wimdizl323 on Apr 19, 2009 9:44:44 GMT -6
well i was working on my car today and pulled the cat. and cleaned it out! was still hesatent so i went to the fuel pump trap and pulled it off to see what i was looking at and the ring was so rotted that the pump and sending unit was floating in the tank like a fishing bobber!!! wow i couldnt belive it and then i pulled it out to cheak it and there was so much CRAP in the tank i allmost craped!! now im stuck with no ring to hold the pump down. dose anyone know if i can fix it or if i would have to replace the whole tank ? and if any one thinks it screwed up my whole fuel system? i hope not !!!!! i have pics in real bad hesatation thread!! cheak it out
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Post by cbburtraw on Apr 19, 2009 13:34:54 GMT -6
theres a fix somewhere here for the fuel tank ring, its kinda hillybillyish but it works!
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Post by boldsmobile on Apr 19, 2009 21:12:28 GMT -6
Are you referring to my fix?
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Post by AuroraZero on Apr 19, 2009 22:06:20 GMT -6
Are you referring to my fix? Yes I posted a link for him in his other thread about this.  |
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Post by JimW on Apr 20, 2009 7:40:17 GMT -6
You'll need to clean the metal rot around the opening and get a new fuel pump retaining ring. Be careful when cleaning as there are 3 metal tabs that are used to lock in the new retaining ring.
I did mine last year and it was nothing short of a mission.
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Post by wimdizl323 on Apr 20, 2009 8:14:39 GMT -6
those are way rotted to
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Post by jason on Apr 20, 2009 8:34:57 GMT -6
If the tabs on the tank are to far gone to use the correct answer would be to replace the tank, ring and filter. But that's not saying there is no way to rig it without doing all that. My only suggestion would be what ever you decide thoroughly clean the tank and change the filter if you keep the existing one...my .02.
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Post by boldsmobile on Apr 20, 2009 10:18:36 GMT -6
I was asking cburt about whether he was referring to my fix. There were two posted recently. The other mentioned the use of drywall screws.
Some folks were opinionated about my fix. Trust me when i say i would have preferred to replace the tank. Living in the northeast i didnt have a lot of faith in replacing it with a used tank, even if one could be found.
When i did this fix i believe the cost of the new tank alone was going to cost somewhere around $500. I couldnt justify spending that kind of money on a 12 year old car with 200,000 miles.
People are quick to judge.
It will be interesting to see what the critics will do when they are in the same situation. Most will do the same fix i did, or complain how much it will cost to fix. If you had to pay a dealer for this job i would bet it would be $1500. How could anyone justify that kind of coin on a first gen?
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Post by jason on Apr 20, 2009 10:52:41 GMT -6
lol. Easy young Jedi. No one questioned if what you did was wrong, just for the sake of getting correct info out there. In that situation the wheels in my head would have been turning to.
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Post by cbburtraw on Apr 20, 2009 16:10:56 GMT -6
Are you referring to my fix? i was referring to the other one, which uses drywall screws. I didn't realize you had just done one, but im sure it will also work  |
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Post by wimdizl323 on Apr 20, 2009 18:04:15 GMT -6
im gonna gowith the one with the new (home made ring and pan head screws with nuts and bolts ) sounds good to me just kind of nervious about the drilling in that area though !!
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Post by nrthrnrckt on Apr 21, 2009 6:46:36 GMT -6
im gonna gowith the one with the new (home made ring and pan head screws with nuts and bolts ) sounds good to me just kind of nervious about the drilling in that area though !! An air drill is a good idea just to be safe, even though as someone told me when I did mine you do need to drain the tank(siphon) fully and get in there with rag and dry the inside as best you can. This will make cleaning up the drill shavings easier, ensure any water that as settled to the bottom of the tank is removed and make your drilling safer. There is a good possibility you have water, if the pump has been just floating around in there. A small amount of water will make your car run like crap. I have also seen it take out pumps and entirely gum up a Central Port injector on a Chevy pick-up. Owner had confused gas can full of water for gas can full of gas. DUHHH. |
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Randy T.
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☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
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Post by Randy T. on Apr 21, 2009 7:09:06 GMT -6
Fumes ignite, gas doesn't. If the tank is drained and cleaned out it can still blow. My friend was welding on a metal gas tank that he drained, cleaned, and filled completely with water. It still blew up, the tank expanded like a balloon.
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Post by boldsmobile on Apr 21, 2009 7:21:01 GMT -6
Make sure the tank is completely drained, wiped dry and vacuum. I also sprayed carb clean on a rag and wiped the inside of my tank. I vacuumed both before and after drilling. When i did mine i would say about 1/3 of my tank was filled with water. I was on a long highway trip in a very very nasty rain storm. Water loves to gather on the top of the fuel pump and it finally rusted away enough to take on a lot of gas.
Changing the filter is a must and i would recommend a fpr change too. When your filter and fpr are out, blow out your lines.
I didn't mentioned this but thought it would have been assumed .... work outside.
I haven't found another adhesive to be resistant to gas like this stuff. If you use something different make sure you test it before you use it. I went through 3 different sealers before i found one that worked. I believe stainless is also a must.
Good luck and keep us posted. Always happy when another Aurora lives to see another day. With the some of the common not so cheap issues these cars have, its easy to see why some folks dont have the money or patience.
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Post by nrthrnrckt on Apr 21, 2009 7:29:37 GMT -6
Fumes ignite, gas doesn't. If the tank is drained and cleaned out it can still blow. My friend was welding on a metal gas tank that he drained, cleaned, and filled completely with water. It still blew up, the tank expanded like a balloon. I said safer not safe. You will never remove all of the fumes from this area as we are doing this repair in car. A completely drained, cleaned and filled with water tank should have never exploded the ratio of fuel to oxygen should have not been there. A steam cleaning (industrial) is the best. If this repair is going to be attemped there will be risk involved. |
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Post by glennda5id on Apr 21, 2009 8:51:13 GMT -6
Randy,
What was your friend doing to his tank that caused it to expanded? Was he trying to weld it shut?
I agree that this is dangerous. But if the tank is clean and dry and left for a day with the trunk open and the gas cap off, I think that most fumes will be gone. Also drilling is a lot different from welding. There may be some sparks, but few to none.
As long as you run a vacuum and suck out all the fumes, what is going to be left to explode?
On, a side note, back in high school, my buddies dad came home one day to see me sitting in his driveway with a my carburetor, a tooth brush, and a can of gasoline while smoking a cigarette. He wasn't pleased.
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Post by nrthrnrckt on Apr 21, 2009 12:32:11 GMT -6
On, a side note, back in high school, my buddies dad came home one day to see me sitting in his driveway with a my carburetor, a tooth brush, and a can of gasoline while smoking a cigarette. He wasn't pleased. Smoking is bad for you. But at least you brush. |
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Randy T.
Administrator
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Posts: 3,758
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Post by Randy T. on Apr 21, 2009 15:47:04 GMT -6
Yes, he was trying to weld some holes on it.
And it was drained, cleaned, and completely full of water and it did explode. I was there when it happened, I did not see it explode, but I heard it. He even took pics, but I probably wouldn't be able to get them. It was like 15 years ago.
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