RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Oct 12, 2009 16:29:19 GMT -6
PICTURES SEEM TO HAVE BEEN REMOVED. WE ARE WORKING ON GETTING REPLACEMENTS FEEL FREE TO SUBMIT IF YOU HAVE THEM!So, seeing as I had to replace my power window motor, I decided to do a write-up on it while I was at it, although this is a REALLY easy job, and I'm not even sure you need a write-up haha. Tools Needed:Socket wrench 7mm socket 10mm socket Socket Extension (don't HAVE to use it I just thought it was easier Phillips Head Screwdriver Flat Head Screwdriver (for prying purposes) Replacement Window Motor Needle nose pliers Normally, when I do ANY work that involves electricity, I disconnect the battery, BUT, on this occasion I did not, you will see why later. Ok, we'll start off by removing the little cover on the door handle with the flat head screwdriver.  Next, remove the phillips head screw that is now exposed.  Then take off the little door handle cover.  Now, remove the two 7mm screws at the bottom of the door panel.  The door panel can now be removed, grasp it by the bottom and pull straight up, then after it is loose pull it outward to take it off. I left the electrical connectors connected and just laid the panel on the ground below the door; 1. For Ease 2. Once again you'll see why in a bit.  The window motor is right behind the insulation towards the front of the door, to remove this, just pull it straight back as much as you need until the motor is exposed.   Now, remove the electrical connector on the motor, this can be a little tricky, I did it by pinching the side where it clips in with pliers and pulling straight out.  Now, remove the three 10mm nuts (or possibly bolts depending on year I think) that are holding the motor in place. I used the extender here because the door handle was getting in the way.  Now you can pull the motor straight off, this may take some prying with the screwdriver, Don't Worry! the glass will stay up, at least mine did.   Now put on your replacement motor, you may have to plug in the electrical connector and use your window switch to move the gear on the motor so it meshes with the window gear, this is done while pressing the motor against the door and pressing the window switch (down).  Once the motor is in place and engaged with the window replace the 10mm nuts (or bolts) After that, it is just a matter of putting everything back on in the reverse of how you took it off. The hardest part for me this whole project was putting the panel back on the door haha, I found it easiest to replace the bottom hooks first and then push down on the panel Congratulations! You can now 1. Order fast food in the drive-thru without looking foolish 2. Not get yelled at by cops for opening your door on a traffic stop
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Post by ryane on Apr 3, 2010 17:58:15 GMT -6
Thanks for the great writeup!
I just did this job on my wife's Aurora after the power window failed on the first nice day of the year. It was about the easiest job I've done on the car yet.
-Ryan
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 3, 2010 21:22:40 GMT -6
Yup haha, no problem, I want to add that the rear motors are nowhere near as easy to take out haha there's a piece of sheet metal directly over it and I can't seem to think of a way to get the motor out. Also, the front and rear aren't interchangeable, the power connectors are different and the motors face opposite directions
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Post by jprice90 on Apr 3, 2010 21:56:18 GMT -6
figures, my left rear motor may be bad
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 4, 2010 9:25:27 GMT -6
Haha, I'm sure there's a way to get it out by unbolting a bunch of crap, I was just too lazy to do that. I ended up cutting the hole in the sheet metal larger to pull her out haha
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Post by roxie60 on Apr 8, 2010 21:24:32 GMT -6
How did you get the insulation to stay back on (glue??)
What hooks did you have to replace (mentioned when putting door back together), no hooks were mentioned when taking the panel off. Did these break when removing the panel? Just trying to understand what the 'hook' are and why you had to replace them. Thanks. I feel I can tackle this now after your great write up. Now I just need to find a motor replacement for the front passenger door. Anyone have an idea how much I should expecxt to pay for a 'used' or 'new' window moter?
Right now my window is completely down and will not go back up so it is garaged until I get this fixed.
roxie.
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 9, 2010 8:31:15 GMT -6
Good to see you back Roxie;
The insulation will usually just stick right back on, the black "glue" used on them from the factory remains sticky and tacky. Mine didn't have a little white clip holding it on, but after seeing my other doors, I'm thinking there should be one and the previous owner lost it (they're easy to take off with pliers/screwdriver just pry it out) if you have one, that will help hold it up.
By "hooks" I just meant the little plastic sort of....well...hooks haha they are glued onto the door panel, sorry for my weird wording, I did not have to replace them completely but rather "replace" them into there spot onto the door (as in the hooks go into little holes on the door itself) they are the reason you have to pull the door up before off, by pulling it up you pull them out of the little holes on the door, the best way to understand would just be to take off the panel, you will see them on the backside of the panel then haha.
As I was reading some other posts of yours; the motors are not interchangeable,(well they kind of are, its a lot of work; the electrical plugs for the front motor doesn't fit with a back motor so you'd have to splice in the plug from the back too, the only motor that would work in your case is the driver rear and from my experience they suck to try and get out) otherwise you have to get the specific one for the door you need, and a good place for them is ebay, I see them on there anywhere from $30-50 I got mine for $20 haha, its just about when you look.
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Post by roxie60 on Apr 9, 2010 21:20:41 GMT -6
Well I had a really nice write up but something happened and lost it all. And I was at the end of my post - argh. Net of the story - tore into door,removed old motor, tested new motor and still having failrure  . Window goes down but not back up. Anyone know if these motors are associated with a fuse (would Olds have the up and down function controlled by separate fuses? I am stumped. Motor gear only turns one way (same behavior whether push button on drivers side or passenger side). Any ideas?? |
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 9, 2010 21:30:37 GMT -6
The motor gear doesn't work in one direction even when its out of the door? Does this occur with both the regular switch and the master switch?
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Post by roxie60 on Apr 10, 2010 9:42:17 GMT -6
The motor gear doesn't work in one direction even when its out of the door? Does this occur with both the regular switch and the master switch? Define regular switch and master switch? The toggle on both front doors that control the passenger window would lower he window but not raise it. Push the toggle (what I am refering as the switch) to the up position and get no response from both driver and passenger switches (same behavior). Push the toggle down and he window lowers. That is correct, the motor gear only works one direction when it is out of the door. Again the gear moves when push switch down only. So I gather there is no fuse that controls window direction (actually I couldn't imagine why Olds would do such a thing but nowadays nothing should surprise me - more points of failure = more $ I guess). Not sure how I would test if the motor is receiving juice from the switch in both directions. I just ruled out it being the motor since th new motor behaved the same when just hooking it to the wiring. Thanks for any help on this cuase I am stumped. Although I am glad to be using the Aurora again I would like to get it fixed (so I don't accidentally push the buton again (I know I should have left the motor unhooked but I put it all back together again). Thanks again for dialoging w/ me on this repair. BTW I did get pics so when have time will up load . Also for those looking the motor only cost me $36. When I called around new and remans were going for up to $62 plus core charge. roxie |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2010 9:59:42 GMT -6
Excellent write up! It has been stickied. I also took the liberty of resizing your pictures. Please remember that it is a nuisance when you have to scroll right and left to read everything.
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Post by roxie60 on Apr 10, 2010 16:19:34 GMT -6
I understand now, master switch is on drivers side. that is where I'm going next. going to buy a meter and check the switch.
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Post by roxie60 on Apr 11, 2010 21:21:15 GMT -6
thanks to rca for posting the instructions and pic. even though you thought it wa easy (and it basically is) if one (like me ;D) has never taken a door off this post gave me the confidence to try it. props to you rca. I will post some of my pics later.
Now anyone ever replaced the master switch panel? I will now be taking apart the drivers door, I assume i is going to be like the passenger except more wires.
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scottydl
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Post by scottydl on Apr 11, 2010 22:22:45 GMT -6
Excellent write up! It has been stickied. I also took the liberty of resizing your pictures. Please remember that it is a nuisance when you have to scroll right and left to read everything. I also cross-stickied (did I just make that up that term?) to the maintenance thread in the Audio/Electric/Lighting section of the forum. That's a good spot for it too. Nice write-up!  |
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Post by 97auroraoner on Apr 12, 2010 0:01:38 GMT -6
this wil come in handy when i replace mine pretty close to how i thought it is done
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Post by postalc38 on Apr 12, 2010 13:52:56 GMT -6
I just looked in here quick to see how the doors come off as I popped a small dent out, and those hooks to get the door back on are a pain the rear....
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 13, 2010 10:55:16 GMT -6
Excellent write up! It has been stickied. I also took the liberty of resizing your pictures. Please remember that it is a nuisance when you have to scroll right and left to read everything. I also cross-stickied (did I just make that up that term?) to the maintenance thread in the Audio/Electric/Lighting section of the forum. That's a good spot for it too. Nice write-up! Yeah I wrote this when I was pretty new here and still unaware of how to resize pictures haha, also I'm fairly certain Collins already made this a sticky a long time ago haha |
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Post by winchester3 on Oct 20, 2010 13:13:41 GMT -6
Nice post, i repaired the rear passenger window motor when i got the car and now the driver side window is pretty sluggish. Next time i get motivated I'll have to tear the door apart and play around with it. I'll be sure to refer back to this when needed!
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Post by renaldo0613 on Oct 22, 2010 7:36:12 GMT -6
I will be replacing mine next weekend, windows are getting sluggish, pretty sure I can do it, write up is step by step....
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skizo
Aurora Passenger
WOT ... is there any other way?
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Post by skizo on Dec 18, 2010 23:38:24 GMT -6
I replaced the driver door motor a bit back. It works zippy, but it'll keep running and skip the gear at the top of the travel. Got pretty good at guessing when to release the button to avoid that, but ...
I'm not aware of any limiter control external to the motor, so I guess I got a bad motor? It's an aftermarket rebuild if that makes a difference, but my parts guy says they've got a good reputation.
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Post by renaldo0613 on May 29, 2012 19:55:33 GMT -6
I replaced the driver door motor a bit back. It works zippy, but it'll keep running and skip the gear at the top of the travel. Got pretty good at guessing when to release the button to avoid that, but ... I'm not aware of any limiter control external to the motor, so I guess I got a bad motor? It's an aftermarket rebuild if that makes a difference, but my parts guy says they've got a good reputation. Now put on your replacement motor, you may have to plug in the electrical connector and use your window switch to move the gear on the motor so it meshes with the window gear, this is done while pressing the motor against the door and pressing the window switch -Did u make sure you did this step. It sounds like the gears aren't insync. If this does not cure I would take the motor back and get another one. Heck it's only 6 bolts to take off to get the job done. |
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on May 29, 2012 23:36:44 GMT -6
Congratulations! You can now 1. Order fast food in the drive-thru without looking foolish 2. Not get yelled at by cops for opening your door on a traffic stop LMAO I love your writeups, Rob. ;D Lucky enough for me it's my passenger window motor that's out so I don't have to look foolish. I have had to pull forward and roll down my rear passenger window to talk to someone standing on that side of the car before, though. lol. I need to get two of these replaced before Illinois, It's all just a matter of getting to the parts car and getting the parts in time! |
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Post by xbigblue on Jan 22, 2013 9:32:12 GMT -6
Got a problem with the wood trim panel on driver door, '99 classic.
javascript:add("%20:)")rca99's post on replacing window motor is great, 'cause it shows how to get the door panel off. My "wood" trim panel that holds the window switches etc on my classic '99 is loose. Someone has messed with it in the past; when I got the car it was just sort of sitting on top of its intended location, and the vent was not functional. My son, who is a better and more daring mechanic, figured out how to get the door panel off and then we could work on the air vent. He fixed the vent, but we found no good way to secure the "wood" panel when we put it back together.
I may not be posting this in the right place, but it seems like a good starting point. Any body have a good fix for this pretty piece of trim?
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Post by sall on Jan 22, 2013 9:36:18 GMT -6
Yeah wrong place. Anyways you will need to add a couple fasteners from the back side to keep the trim piece firmly in place. There are a couple of plastic nubs that break. Did this on the '98 few weeks ago.
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Post by sall on Mar 17, 2016 15:06:20 GMT -6
I'll try to get some pictures to supplement this, but it should be pretty straight forward.
I plan to re-grease what I can reach. Any suggestions on grease? White Lithium?
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. Window goes down but not back up. 
