|
|
Post by lanceslambos on Jul 18, 2011 10:46:38 GMT -6
well this ain't good.  pulling into the post office today and the road drops off maybe 1/2 inch to an inch as it meets the parking lot, nothing to slow down for or anything. i was going about 10 mph i guess when something popped and made a funny noise. after that on the way home every little dip in the road it would make a noise. i looked underneath and this roughly 4" bar on the drivers side has a gap on the top where it meets a bushing. the passenger side meets flush. the noise is definitely coming from the drivers side.   its like the thing was stretched out exposing a spindle looking part that's no longer covered i did not get a pic of the passenger side but its just flush where it meets at top is the only difference. what is this piece called? how hard is it to replace? is the car safe to drive until i can get it done? |
|
|
|
Post by ntrenn on Jul 18, 2011 11:17:14 GMT -6
Lance - it's an opportunity....The sway bar end link bolt broke. Beat-feet your way down to the local auto parts store and get yourself a set of energy suspension end links. They are about $20 more or less....
Or...if you are inclined to be cheap....find your way to the local Ace Hardware (or Do It Best) and buy yourself a pair of 3/8x5 or so bolts - Grade 5 or harder - and about $2.00 spent.
|
|
|
|
Post by lanceslambos on Jul 19, 2011 15:11:59 GMT -6
UPDATE: i priced several makes and decided to go with MOOG as i know they are top of the line, besides i have MOOG strut parts already. the sway bar link kit at a local car store was made by Auto Plus, a company i have never heard of. they were 7.00 each. at Auto Zone they had Duralast for 8.00 each and O' Reilly's house brand (Parts Pro) were 4.99 each but then i found MOOG for 14.98 a pair after tax. naturally what should have been a 20 minute job ended up taking 2 hours because the old rusty ones just did not want to come off. an air hammer (mini jack hammer) and a torch were used. we had to partially melt the old bushing off to get a good grip on them. take a look at these things! bolts had turned into nails!!!!!  the passenger side broke when we was pulling it out. @ 150,000 miles these things were completely shot.  look at the remains of the bolt inside the bushing!  the new ones are thicker / more heavy duty  notice the busted oem plastic spacer sleeve in the above pics. why on earth GM used plastic sleeves is beyond me but as you can see the new ones are steel |
|
scottydl
Super Moderator 
There's nothin' like an American V-8...
Posts: 7,373
Staff Member
|
Post by scottydl on Jul 19, 2011 15:44:15 GMT -6
Well done! Pretty easy replaceable part, aside from the inevitable rusted-together parts as you discovered. Great photos too, I'm going to put it in the Maintenance sticky.
|
|
|
|
Post by dantheman86 on Sept 3, 2011 17:55:50 GMT -6
You ought to check the rear sway bar links. I guarantee they are rusted out too. Poly is the way to go though...
|
|
|
|
Post by renaldo0613 on Mar 12, 2012 21:24:49 GMT -6
I fell victim to the driver side sway bar link. Auto zone does not carry the specific one for the Aurora. Are they interchangeable with other cars??
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Mar 13, 2012 8:28:02 GMT -6
I fell victim to the driver side sway bar link. Auto zone does not carry the specific one for the Aurora. Are they interchangeable with other cars?? Definitely just order poly for all the way around. You have to make some brackets but no big deal(for the sway bar bushings, end link are direct swap!) There is a howto in the performance section. |
|
|
|
Post by tipsymcstager on Mar 13, 2012 14:43:25 GMT -6
I fell victim to the driver side sway bar link. Auto zone does not carry the specific one for the Aurora. Are they interchangeable with other cars?? try NAPA, they'll have them. or can get them! i got my polyurethane bushings for $12 front, and $12 for the back sets  |
|
|
|
Post by austinhealey on Apr 2, 2012 9:54:13 GMT -6
For others considering this fix, believe rock auto sells a set of uprated poly bushings and links that covers both front and rear -- a bit cheaper than energy suspension.
Haven't done my end link bushings yet, but just replaced my front sway bar bushings with energy suspension bushings and it was quite easy. Definitely read the maintenance section sticky -- good instructions.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2013 21:29:29 GMT -6
Anyone know the complexity of this repair? Mine have gone on both sides and the ride is horrid! So much movement when hitting pot holes!
|
|
|
|
Post by renaldo0613 on Apr 27, 2013 23:42:44 GMT -6
Anyone know the complexity of this repair? Mine have gone on both sides and the ride is horrid! So much movement when hitting pot holes! Very easy!! 30mins tops for replacement. You need a mini sludge hamme of some sort, socket set, flat head screw driver for cotter pin (i believe), and the new sway bar link. Loosen the bottom nut, bang it out with the hammer, slide new one in, and go to the other side. Repeat and your good to go. |
|
Randy T.
Administrator 
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Apr 28, 2013 7:54:38 GMT -6
No cotter pin on the sway bar links. I fell victim to the driver side sway bar link. Auto zone does not carry the specific one for the Aurora. Are they interchangeable with other cars?? Autozone may not carry these in stock for the Aurora, but they can order them and usually have them in the next day, same with the rears. The problem was probably the parts person you were dealing with.  Oriellys has them, too, same deal. |
|
|
|
Post by sall on Apr 28, 2013 7:56:56 GMT -6
Anyone know the complexity of this repair? Mine have gone on both sides and the ride is horrid! So much movement when hitting pot holes! Difficulty level 2 out of 10 if that. May as well replace your sway bar bushings too. The '98 is about to get the poly treatment ;D FSM Procedure & Torque Specs --->>> Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2013 21:23:10 GMT -6
The link appears dead, Sall.
Checking with the part stores next week once I get settled in the new place. Whats the "ideal" replacement? Energy suspension? Something a bit stiffer?
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Apr 29, 2013 7:22:42 GMT -6
The link appears dead, Sall. Checking with the part stores next week once I get settled in the new place. Whats the "ideal" replacement? Energy suspension? Something a bit stiffer? The link works fine for me. It is a google drive .pdf. Yes, poly is a bit stiffer and will wear a lot better. Theres a write-up in the performance section about the [poly]sway bar bushings, but the end links are pretty straight forward once you get in there. |
|
|
|
Post by renaldo0613 on Oct 22, 2013 11:14:52 GMT -6
Cant remember, are the rear sway bar links the same size/dimension as the front ones are on a classic aurora? Just noticed last week that mines are shot completely in the rear lol. Got a polyurethane up front, time for the back to be started.
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Oct 28, 2013 13:37:24 GMT -6
Thought you bought the 22mm rear bar a while ago? IIRC no the front and rear are different. Bolt and spacer length that is.
|
|
|
|
Post by 99blackautobahn on Jun 10, 2014 7:32:56 GMT -6
I picked up a replacement sway bar link Moog brand from O reilly and it turns out my original was not broken as the guy at thealignment shop told me. The factory links actually seem to be better to me since they have that plastic spool spacer you dont see on the aftermarket ones. that spool being in place should stiffen up the overall assembly and help to prevent road salt from rotting the bolts out
|
|
|
|
Post by Kersh on Jun 10, 2014 9:13:59 GMT -6
Actually, the "spool" ends up holding the water in and makes them rot out quicker.
|
|
pulling into the post office today and the road drops off maybe 1/2 inch to an inch as it meets the parking lot, nothing to slow down for or anything. i was going about 10 mph i guess when something popped and made a funny noise. after that on the way home every little dip in the road it would make a noise. i looked underneath and this roughly 4" bar on the drivers side has a gap on the top where it meets a bushing. the passenger side meets flush. the noise is definitely coming from the drivers side. 
Oriellys has them, too, same deal. 