How to pull the engine from the top

Pulling the engine out the top is not really that hard, just a lot of steps. Many of these steps would be done anyway, just after dropping the sub-frame. Once you've done it a few times it's almost easy. So grab your tools and favorite beverage and let's get started.

Disconnect battery ground and pull the fuel pump fuse just in case you need to hook the battery back up for some reason.
Set the parking brake or chock the rear wheels and put the front of the car on jack stands, just high enough to work under there.
Remove front right wheel and plastic shield.
Drain oil and coolant and please recycle.
*edit* Now is a good time for a quick beverage break.

FRONT/LEFT
Remove engine cover.
Remove the vent tube that runs from the front valve cover to the intake.
Remove the intake duct/resonator.
Remove the ignition module and plug wires.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the brake booster.
Disconnect the engine wiring harness plug from the firewall.
Remove the coolant reservoir.
Remove radiator cover.
Disconnect the top transmission cooler line at the radiator.
Disconnect the lower hose where it goes into the transmission.
Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the radiator.
Remove top hose, fans and radiator, leaving lower hose attached to radiator.
Remove water pump cover/thermostat housing.
Hold the throttle plate open and disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables.
(press down on the cable end with a small screwdriver or awl)

Good progress. Take another break before moving to the
RIGHT SIDE
Remove the washer fluid reservoir.
Remove the relay cover behind the passenger side headlight. (Hint: Move the wire loom directly above cover to make removal easy.)
Disconnect the wires in the positive terminal jumper and remove the plastic box from the frame rail.
Remove the vacuum reservoir from the firewall if so equipped. (I think it's a 95 only thing)
Remove the cruise control module and related vacuum lines as applicable.
Unplug the starter wire connector. It's a heavy purple wire in a loom by itself coming out near the ps pump and going towards the firewall around cylinder #1.
Borrowing one of Tipsy's photo's to show the wire:


INTAKE/TB
1. Relieve fuel pressure at the schraeder valve on the fuel rail.
2. Disconnect the fuel lines. Gently squeeze and twist, they come off fairly easy. Have a rag under as there will still be fuel in the lines.
3. Disconnect the TPS, ISC (or IACV, 96-99), and purge relay connectors.
(Possibly MAF, I don't have one so I don't know if it's part of the intake harness like the MAP is.)
4. Unbolt the purge relay and disconnect the large hose that goes to the firewall.
5. Pull the PCV out of the rear valve cover, leaving it in the hose and the hose attached to the intake.
6. Unplug the Injection Wiring Harness. Large round connector, just squeeze the sides and pull.
7. Disconnect the small (~1/2 inch o.d.) water line from the bottom of the throttle body.
8. Unbolt the lower end of the front EGR hose. Leave it attached to intake.
9. Unbolt the intake manifold and remove the entire assembly (fuel rail, throttle body, etc.)


Phew! Time for another beverage break!

Disconnect rear heater hose (A) and unbolt the metal part from the transmission.
Remove the arm (B) from the PRNDL switch, leave it attached to shifter cable.
Remove PRNDL switch (C) but don't disconnect it, just push it back out of the way.
Disconnect the single-wire connector (D) below the master cylinder.
Remove two nuts from the bracket (E) at the back of the engine. (driver's side)


Disconnect the large positive cable from the starter and from the alternator. These two are connected and go to the positive junction box. Unclip the cables from the retainers and remove.
Remove the starter, leaving the purple wire attached to it.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Disconnect alternator and compressor wiring.
Remove the alternator.
Remove oil filter housing.
Unbolt the compressor and tie it to the frame. No need to open the system.
Disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump. Put a bolt in the front hose to plug it.
Remove power steering pump, carefully as it's full of fluid.

Home stretch! Another quick break before crawling
UNDERNEATH
Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the Y-pipe. If you remove the Y-pipe the thing will come out easier, otherwise the exhaust is stuck together for now.
Remove three bolts from the brackets (F) at the front of the engine.
Disconnect VSS, power steering pressure, PS limit switch (G)


Remove lower engine to transmission brackets (crossunder pipe area)
Remove torque converter cover.
Remove four torque converter bolts.

LEFT SIDE
Pull the wiring harness out of the way and remove the four engine to transmission bolts. Here is the furthest one back, hardest to get to.


Attach a chain to the engine for the hoist. I used the top right (rear) engine-trans bolt inside the valley in the back, and up front the existing hook point works great. I did not use a load leveler.
Take just enough weight off of the engine to remove the front motor mount bolt.
Remove the front motor mount and mounting plate.
Remove the idler and tensioner assembly.

Everything should now be ready. Gently pry the engine away from the transmission. If you left the Y-pipe on the exhaust, you'll have to jack it up a bit and crawl under to break that free. Once you have the engine free of the transmission just raise and pull it forward as you go. Watch for anything connected that may have been overlooked and watch that the Y-pipe doesn't snag or smash anything. Viola!


Hope this helps someone. May you have more beverages than busted knuckles!
Cheers!
Bob
*minor tweaks made 1/10/12 - suggestions welcome*