Post by stelte on Aug 3, 2006 17:13:17 GMT -6
The symptoms I had came in phases. First, the amount of cold air that was coming out of the system went down significantly the first time I turned the A/C on this summer. I measured the pressure on the low side and it was a lot higher than it should have been. Finally, the compressor locked up and totally fried the compressor clutch.
If your compressor goes, and you go to a dealer, they will probably tell you that the only officially approved repair is to do the “firewall forward” routine. This means changing everything in the A/C system including the hoses between the firewall and the bumper (essentially everything except the evaporator core). This will fix the problem, but you may end up paying more for the repair than your car is worth.
Doing it yourself will save you a lot of money. The minimum that you should change if your compressor blows up is the compressor (obviously), the accumulator/drier and the expansion orifice. You can get rebuilt compressors starting at about $230 and up, and I opted to get the cheapest rebuilt I could find. Time will tell how long it lasts. The accumulator/drier goes for about $50, and the expansion orifice is about $3. You will also need 8 oz of PAG 150 oil which will cost about $6.
If, after you take out the expansion orifice and you see a lot of metal filings and black oil in the screen, it probably makes good sense to flush the system. Some mechanics use brake cleaner, although some people claim it leaves a residue itself. Some parts stores carry a special A/C flush solvent but it is very expensive. To do this you will have to have access to compressed air. The main thing to flush is the condenser because that is what collects the debris when the compressor blows. There are varying opinions on how effective flushing really is on the newer multi-flow condensers.
Location of components:
Low and Hi pressure Valves: Up near the firewall on the passenger side, you will see these valves. Mine have black plastic screw-on caps. These are essentially like tire air valves. The low pressure valve is the one nearest the firewall is the smaller of the two.
Expansion Orifice: This is located between the hi and low pressure valves. There is a coupling between the two that you can break open with a couple of wrenches and remove the orifice tube.
Compressor: Located on the lower front right side of the engine, accessible from the right front wheel well.
Accumulator/Drier: This is an aluminum canister about the shape of a bee can, but about twice as big. It is located on the passenger side right above the front wheel well.
Step by Step Instructions:
Removing the R-134a: (DO THIS STEP FIRST!)
1. The proper way to do this is to get someone to evacuate the system for you. Although this is not recommended, I’ve heard that some mechanics just discharge it into the atmosphere, since R-134a is not harmful to the environment. However, it can cause frost bite and could seriously damage your eyes if you are careless, so if you decide to discharge it by pushing a screwdriver into the low pressure valve and letting it blow out, make sure to use some heavy gloves and wear goggles.
Removing and Replacing the Expansion Orifice:
1. Make sure there is no R-134a left in the system by discharging the system per above.
2. Break open the coupling between the high and low pressure valves with a couple of wrenches. The sizes of the wrenches are 15/16” and 20mm. After the nut is loose, pull the coupling apart.
3. Remove the plastic orifice tube. Mine came out pretty easily, although the plastic tab on the front broke off right away. I grabbed the metal tube with a needle nose pliers and pulled it out. I have heard that these can get “welded” in. I think there is a orifice remover tool that you can get, or, I have also read that a long wood screw can be put in the tube in order to get some gripping traction to pull it out.
4. The new orifice tube comes with a new O-ring, but you might want also want to change the other O-ring on the nut side of the coupling.
5. If the old orifice tube is clogged with a lot of black goo and metal filings, that’s not a good sign as to what might be in the rest of the system, especially the condenser.
6. Clean out the coupling tubes the best you can and insert the new orifice tube in and put the coupling back together.
Setting the Car Up to Work On:
1. Jack the car up and support it securely on both sides with jack stands. You will need to get it high enough to work on the compressor from underneath.
2. Remove the front passenger side tire.
3. Remove the front portion of the inner wheel well cover by removing the push in plastic rivets. These are re-useable – remove them by pulling out the center pin with a pliers at which point they can be removed easily by getting a screwdriver underneath and prying them out. Reinstall by pushing them back in and then pushing in the center pin. You won’t have to remove the entire wheel well liner. Just take the front portion loose to the very top of the wheel and fold it back and out of the way.
4. Remove the right portion of the splash guard under the radiator. It has the same kind of plastic rivets. Again, no need to take it completely off. Just take the plastic rivets out of the right half and fold it over out of the way.
Removing the compressor:
1. Make sure you have discharged all the R-134a from the system before attempting to remove the compressor.
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the compressor. To do this put about a 6” ½” inch extension into your ½” ratchet and push the ½” extension into the square hole on the belt tensioner. Push the ratchet handle forward to release the tension on the belt and pull the belt off the power steering pump. Now go into the front passenger wheel well and remove the belt from the A/C compressor and fold it over and out of the way.
3. Remove the clutch control electrical plug. This will be on the right side of the compressor right behind the pulley.
4. Remove the high pressure cutoff switch electrical connector from the compressor. This is located on the back of the compressor and is difficult to see clearly and hard to get to. One side of the connector has a little plastic retainer tab that you need to slide out and remove. Once this is removed, you can squeeze the connector locking tab and pull the connector out.
5. Remove the suction and high pressure connector ports from the compressor. Both are integrated into a single metal port with one 15mm bolt through the middle. You will need a 3/8” ratchet with about a 9” extension to get to it.
6. The rear of the compressor is secured to the engine with a bracket. There are two 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the compressor. You do not need to remove these bolts to get the compressor out. The bracket is secured to the engine with a 13 mm bolt. Remove this bolt and the back of the compressor will be free. This 13 mm bolt is actually a 13 mm nut threaded onto a bolt with a star shaped head. Use a 13 mm deep well socket to remove it.
7. Now remove the three 15mm bolts holding the front of the compressor to the engine. There will be one on the right and left side of the pulley and one on the very top which is almost impossible to see. It’s probably best to remove the one on the very top first. You will need a small 3/8” ratchet with no extensions to get to this one. Then remove the other two which are relatively easy.
8. Pull the compressor out.
Preparation and Installation of the New Compressor:
1. If you are using a rebuild, it probably won’t come with the high pressure cutoff switch. You will have to remove it from the old compressor and put it in the new one. This switch is held in with a “C” snap ring. To remove it, best to have a snap ring removal tool. Otherwise, you will have to improvise with a needle nose pliers or something like that. After removing the snap ring, twist and tease the switch out, and clean it up. It’s probably wise to test it with an ohmmeter before putting it back in the new compressor. It should be a short circuit between the terminals. If it is open, that means it’s bad and needs to be replaced. I’m sure it is dealer only and a small fortune. Alternatively, you could jump the cable and give up the high pressure cutoff protection, but you are on your own here. Lube the seal on the new compressor with some oil, and install the old switch in the new compressor and lock it in with the snap ring.
2. Take the bracket off the old compressor and install it on the new one. The two bolts are 10 mm.
3. Pour 4 oz. of PAG 150 oil into the suction port of the compressor. If you position the compressor so that the two ports are on the top as you look at it, the suction port will be the one on the left. Leave the compressor sitting with the pulley side down for at least 5 minutes so that the front seal gets lubricated.
4. Replace the sealing washers on the port connectors. The new compressor should come with a couple of new seals for the port connector. These are metal washers with a rubberized center. Before installing the compressor to the car, get under the car and remove the old seals from the port connector assembly. They should come off relatively easy, but using a pocket knife to separate them from the connector assembly should help. Slip the new sealing washers on.
5. Install the compressor using the reverse order of the removal steps.
6. In order to distribute the oil in the compressor cylinders, give the compressor about 10 turns with a spanner wrench.
Removal of the Old Accumulator/Drier:
1. Make sure you have discharged the R-134a from the system.
2. Disconnect the top and bottom connections and pull the hoses from the old accumulator.
3. There is a Phillips screw that is located at the base of the accumulator that secures the black plastic container shell to the wheel well that is difficult to see unless you are looking for it. Remove that screw.
4. Reroute the electrical cables that are in the way of removing the accumulator. Also remove the plastic cover over the relay and fuse holder that is in front of the accumulator to make more room to get the accumulator out.
5. Twist the accumulator and plastic shell holder about a quarter turn clockwise and tilt it toward the front of the car and it should come out.
6. Replace the rubber O-rings on the top and bottom tubes if they look rotted out. Your new accumulator will probably come with new O-rings.
Installation of the New Accumulator/Drier:
1. The new accumulator should be filled with 4 oz of PAG150 oil. Pour it in the top before installing it in the car. Bear in mind, though, that once you remove the end caps on the new accumulator and put in the oil, it will begin to absorb moisture. So this should be the last step of the installation and the system should be sealed up quickly after this is done.
Flushing, Evacuation and Recharge:
I took my car to a friend to do this, so no advice here. If you do this yourself, you will need air and a vacuum pump. Also, enough cans of R-134a to make 2lbs of refrigerant after you assume a little is left in each can.
My results:
Overall, I’m relatively pleased. The car is comfortable in 100 degree outside temperature, although I don’t think that the output temperature is quite as cold as it was when the car was new. I suspect that the condenser has some blockage, but that’s even more expense and I elected not to change it. Overall, I’m happy. We’ll see how long it lasts.
If your compressor goes, and you go to a dealer, they will probably tell you that the only officially approved repair is to do the “firewall forward” routine. This means changing everything in the A/C system including the hoses between the firewall and the bumper (essentially everything except the evaporator core). This will fix the problem, but you may end up paying more for the repair than your car is worth.
Doing it yourself will save you a lot of money. The minimum that you should change if your compressor blows up is the compressor (obviously), the accumulator/drier and the expansion orifice. You can get rebuilt compressors starting at about $230 and up, and I opted to get the cheapest rebuilt I could find. Time will tell how long it lasts. The accumulator/drier goes for about $50, and the expansion orifice is about $3. You will also need 8 oz of PAG 150 oil which will cost about $6.
If, after you take out the expansion orifice and you see a lot of metal filings and black oil in the screen, it probably makes good sense to flush the system. Some mechanics use brake cleaner, although some people claim it leaves a residue itself. Some parts stores carry a special A/C flush solvent but it is very expensive. To do this you will have to have access to compressed air. The main thing to flush is the condenser because that is what collects the debris when the compressor blows. There are varying opinions on how effective flushing really is on the newer multi-flow condensers.
Location of components:
Low and Hi pressure Valves: Up near the firewall on the passenger side, you will see these valves. Mine have black plastic screw-on caps. These are essentially like tire air valves. The low pressure valve is the one nearest the firewall is the smaller of the two.
Expansion Orifice: This is located between the hi and low pressure valves. There is a coupling between the two that you can break open with a couple of wrenches and remove the orifice tube.
Compressor: Located on the lower front right side of the engine, accessible from the right front wheel well.
Accumulator/Drier: This is an aluminum canister about the shape of a bee can, but about twice as big. It is located on the passenger side right above the front wheel well.
Step by Step Instructions:
Removing the R-134a: (DO THIS STEP FIRST!)
1. The proper way to do this is to get someone to evacuate the system for you. Although this is not recommended, I’ve heard that some mechanics just discharge it into the atmosphere, since R-134a is not harmful to the environment. However, it can cause frost bite and could seriously damage your eyes if you are careless, so if you decide to discharge it by pushing a screwdriver into the low pressure valve and letting it blow out, make sure to use some heavy gloves and wear goggles.
Removing and Replacing the Expansion Orifice:
1. Make sure there is no R-134a left in the system by discharging the system per above.
2. Break open the coupling between the high and low pressure valves with a couple of wrenches. The sizes of the wrenches are 15/16” and 20mm. After the nut is loose, pull the coupling apart.
3. Remove the plastic orifice tube. Mine came out pretty easily, although the plastic tab on the front broke off right away. I grabbed the metal tube with a needle nose pliers and pulled it out. I have heard that these can get “welded” in. I think there is a orifice remover tool that you can get, or, I have also read that a long wood screw can be put in the tube in order to get some gripping traction to pull it out.
4. The new orifice tube comes with a new O-ring, but you might want also want to change the other O-ring on the nut side of the coupling.
5. If the old orifice tube is clogged with a lot of black goo and metal filings, that’s not a good sign as to what might be in the rest of the system, especially the condenser.
6. Clean out the coupling tubes the best you can and insert the new orifice tube in and put the coupling back together.
Setting the Car Up to Work On:
1. Jack the car up and support it securely on both sides with jack stands. You will need to get it high enough to work on the compressor from underneath.
2. Remove the front passenger side tire.
3. Remove the front portion of the inner wheel well cover by removing the push in plastic rivets. These are re-useable – remove them by pulling out the center pin with a pliers at which point they can be removed easily by getting a screwdriver underneath and prying them out. Reinstall by pushing them back in and then pushing in the center pin. You won’t have to remove the entire wheel well liner. Just take the front portion loose to the very top of the wheel and fold it back and out of the way.
4. Remove the right portion of the splash guard under the radiator. It has the same kind of plastic rivets. Again, no need to take it completely off. Just take the plastic rivets out of the right half and fold it over out of the way.
Removing the compressor:
1. Make sure you have discharged all the R-134a from the system before attempting to remove the compressor.
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the compressor. To do this put about a 6” ½” inch extension into your ½” ratchet and push the ½” extension into the square hole on the belt tensioner. Push the ratchet handle forward to release the tension on the belt and pull the belt off the power steering pump. Now go into the front passenger wheel well and remove the belt from the A/C compressor and fold it over and out of the way.
3. Remove the clutch control electrical plug. This will be on the right side of the compressor right behind the pulley.
4. Remove the high pressure cutoff switch electrical connector from the compressor. This is located on the back of the compressor and is difficult to see clearly and hard to get to. One side of the connector has a little plastic retainer tab that you need to slide out and remove. Once this is removed, you can squeeze the connector locking tab and pull the connector out.
5. Remove the suction and high pressure connector ports from the compressor. Both are integrated into a single metal port with one 15mm bolt through the middle. You will need a 3/8” ratchet with about a 9” extension to get to it.
6. The rear of the compressor is secured to the engine with a bracket. There are two 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the compressor. You do not need to remove these bolts to get the compressor out. The bracket is secured to the engine with a 13 mm bolt. Remove this bolt and the back of the compressor will be free. This 13 mm bolt is actually a 13 mm nut threaded onto a bolt with a star shaped head. Use a 13 mm deep well socket to remove it.
7. Now remove the three 15mm bolts holding the front of the compressor to the engine. There will be one on the right and left side of the pulley and one on the very top which is almost impossible to see. It’s probably best to remove the one on the very top first. You will need a small 3/8” ratchet with no extensions to get to this one. Then remove the other two which are relatively easy.
8. Pull the compressor out.
Preparation and Installation of the New Compressor:
1. If you are using a rebuild, it probably won’t come with the high pressure cutoff switch. You will have to remove it from the old compressor and put it in the new one. This switch is held in with a “C” snap ring. To remove it, best to have a snap ring removal tool. Otherwise, you will have to improvise with a needle nose pliers or something like that. After removing the snap ring, twist and tease the switch out, and clean it up. It’s probably wise to test it with an ohmmeter before putting it back in the new compressor. It should be a short circuit between the terminals. If it is open, that means it’s bad and needs to be replaced. I’m sure it is dealer only and a small fortune. Alternatively, you could jump the cable and give up the high pressure cutoff protection, but you are on your own here. Lube the seal on the new compressor with some oil, and install the old switch in the new compressor and lock it in with the snap ring.
2. Take the bracket off the old compressor and install it on the new one. The two bolts are 10 mm.
3. Pour 4 oz. of PAG 150 oil into the suction port of the compressor. If you position the compressor so that the two ports are on the top as you look at it, the suction port will be the one on the left. Leave the compressor sitting with the pulley side down for at least 5 minutes so that the front seal gets lubricated.
4. Replace the sealing washers on the port connectors. The new compressor should come with a couple of new seals for the port connector. These are metal washers with a rubberized center. Before installing the compressor to the car, get under the car and remove the old seals from the port connector assembly. They should come off relatively easy, but using a pocket knife to separate them from the connector assembly should help. Slip the new sealing washers on.
5. Install the compressor using the reverse order of the removal steps.
6. In order to distribute the oil in the compressor cylinders, give the compressor about 10 turns with a spanner wrench.
Removal of the Old Accumulator/Drier:
1. Make sure you have discharged the R-134a from the system.
2. Disconnect the top and bottom connections and pull the hoses from the old accumulator.
3. There is a Phillips screw that is located at the base of the accumulator that secures the black plastic container shell to the wheel well that is difficult to see unless you are looking for it. Remove that screw.
4. Reroute the electrical cables that are in the way of removing the accumulator. Also remove the plastic cover over the relay and fuse holder that is in front of the accumulator to make more room to get the accumulator out.
5. Twist the accumulator and plastic shell holder about a quarter turn clockwise and tilt it toward the front of the car and it should come out.
6. Replace the rubber O-rings on the top and bottom tubes if they look rotted out. Your new accumulator will probably come with new O-rings.
Installation of the New Accumulator/Drier:
1. The new accumulator should be filled with 4 oz of PAG150 oil. Pour it in the top before installing it in the car. Bear in mind, though, that once you remove the end caps on the new accumulator and put in the oil, it will begin to absorb moisture. So this should be the last step of the installation and the system should be sealed up quickly after this is done.
Flushing, Evacuation and Recharge:
I took my car to a friend to do this, so no advice here. If you do this yourself, you will need air and a vacuum pump. Also, enough cans of R-134a to make 2lbs of refrigerant after you assume a little is left in each can.
My results:
Overall, I’m relatively pleased. The car is comfortable in 100 degree outside temperature, although I don’t think that the output temperature is quite as cold as it was when the car was new. I suspect that the condenser has some blockage, but that’s even more expense and I elected not to change it. Overall, I’m happy. We’ll see how long it lasts.
