phydeaux
Aurora Passenger
I keep extra bearings handy in case I can't fix it with a hammer
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Post by phydeaux on Aug 19, 2007 12:17:36 GMT -6
This wasn't too bad of a job. Let's get started  First thing's first, remove the radiator: aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&thread=1124750440I hit my condensor with a little coil cleaner to help the A/C out a little. Worked great too!!!  Of course you disconnected the battery, how dare I make such a claim. I pulled up on the ramps for under car access. Next thing was to loosen the serpentine belt. The tensioner has a 1/2 inch cutout. I had to use a buch of 1/2 inch extensions:   Next was the electrical connector and main wire to the alternator:   The nut on the main wire was a 13mm. With those out of the way, Two 15mm bolts on the back side of the alternator. One is really sneaky and hard to get to.    Next we tackle the top bolt:  I took the ground cable off just for clearance. 15mm There is a nut holding the return line for the power steering that has to come off. 15mm I went ahead and disconnected the return hose while I was at it.  Now you can remove the stud. 15mm Under the car we go! I just removed the push clips from the right hand splash guard and shoved it out of the way. I removed this bracket from the body to the cradle for easier access to the lower bolts: 13mm   Once again there is a nut holding the power steering return hose in place. Once removed the stud comes out and voila! One alternator removed. 15mm   Installation is pretty much the reverse of the removal. Not a bad DIY job. A good set of ratchet wrenches will really save your butt on this one. Total time was roughly two hours. |
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Post by algonquin on Aug 19, 2007 19:12:58 GMT -6
Nice writeup and pics. 2 hours isn't bad. Did you pull the radiator to save it from being damaged ? Usually you can pull the upper radiator support and the fans and have enough room.
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phydeaux
Aurora Passenger
I keep extra bearings handy in case I can't fix it with a hammer
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Post by phydeaux on Aug 20, 2007 5:38:55 GMT -6
I read in a previous post that the radiator did not absolutely have to come out but I had a feeling my radiator might have the infamous passenger side leak. Went ahead and yanked it out to have it pressure tested. Not leaking so that was good news. It was worth pulling just to have the clearance and the five to ten degree colder A/C ain't bad either.
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Post by KliffsAurora on Aug 20, 2007 6:15:18 GMT -6
Thanks for the write up. I need to invest in an alternator and the passenger side of my radiator has started to leak. So I can kill to birds with one stone. Thia better be stickied...
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phydeaux
Aurora Passenger
I keep extra bearings handy in case I can't fix it with a hammer
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Post by phydeaux on Aug 20, 2007 15:43:24 GMT -6
I thought my radiator was bad as well. Have it pressure tested before you install a new one. I think I solved my leak however. The teeny tiny hose that goes from the water pump to (I believe) the heater core. The hose itself was only about three inches long and a major PITA to change. I hope this does get stickied since Imageshack was giving me absolute fits the whole time. Took almost as long to do this writeup as it did to change the alternator. Tells you how much I know about computers I guess.
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Post by outlaw on Aug 22, 2007 17:56:06 GMT -6
the write up i posted was the one where you do not have to take out the radiator and condenser, however it takes much longer
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Post by mattn on Dec 12, 2008 19:50:03 GMT -6
why are some of the pictures missing? I see a lot of boxe with just the word " [image] " , and no picture!
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scottydl
Super Moderator 
There's nothin' like an American V-8...
Posts: 7,373
Staff Member
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Post by scottydl on Dec 13, 2008 9:41:57 GMT -6
It looks like ImageShack (the photo hosting site) has dropped some of the links for reasons unknown. I'm working on getting the originals from phydeaux so they can be hosted elsewhere. Stay tuned!
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Post by alecbeaton on Dec 13, 2008 15:21:45 GMT -6
I did it without having to pull the rad. either. If you have a lift it's not any more time to leave it in or take it out. Just need smaller hands, and the alt. actually had to come out the drivers side of the engine bay if you want to do it that way. In case anyone is curious.
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Post by bluefish on Aug 10, 2009 8:34:23 GMT -6
Yup, Just did mine...
Many Thanks for the write up and pictures.
I gasped when I found out that I had to rempve the radiator too.lol
But the write up guided me along.
I found that I had to cut the clamps holding the oil line around the alternator and had to fabricate new ones. The outer nut was frozen on and no amount of wd would losen it up.
Also I found that the left fan had to be put in 1st.
just some more info.
Many thanks again..
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Post by scotts98 on Nov 24, 2009 6:12:17 GMT -6
Great wright up, but it took Me over 5 hours.. I diden't pull the radiator . I had just enuff room after the fan was out.
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Randy T.
Administrator 
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
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Post by Randy T. on Nov 24, 2009 9:01:57 GMT -6
I would pull the radiator no matter what. It keeps it from being damaged and it makes the job so much easier. It only takes 20 minutes to pull the radiator, but it saves you a lot of time.
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Post by ice1ce on Feb 16, 2010 4:31:48 GMT -6
I have Two '97s and have done the alternator on both of them. I did the first with the rad in and the second with the rad out. The Rad out took me about 3 hours less time to get it done. I would recommend taking the rad out. its not a bad job to do and as has been pointed out, gives a good opportunity to do a bit of preventative maintenance as well
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Post by xxcels96aurora on Aug 4, 2010 7:24:03 GMT -6
Are the rest of the pictures available?
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Post by mattn on Oct 9, 2010 13:44:41 GMT -6
I'd like to see those missing pics still. Any luck finding them?
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cobrabobby
Aurora Groupie
95 AURORA, MIDSTATES COBRA REPLICA (Sold), VW TOUAREG
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Post by cobrabobby on Oct 9, 2010 23:02:47 GMT -6
If it is the line that runs right next to the alternator with a line clamp
attached to one of the alternator mount points, I had the line clamp
come loose at the mount point and the line was rubbing the serpentine
belt. The resistance caused the amp output to go south, ruined the
alternator and belt. Not a well designed system. Rerouted the line and
clamped it with aircraft clamps after changing alternator and belt. All good
now. The location and design of the alternator mount is atrocious.
Bob
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