Post by kobalt on Mar 21, 2005 14:15:54 GMT -6
A faulty front wheel bearing hub can manifest itself in a variety of ways - from a rubbing sound while in motion to ABS system malfunctions to the car pulling to one side. My car had all of these symptoms and a replacement was mandated. In spite all of the horror stories involving changing the hub I chose to go the DIY route since a $900 
dealer repair quote was outrageous and unacceptable. In this tutorial I will demonstrate how to replace a very, very stubborn front wheel bearing hub replacement procedure for a net cost of $120 using standard tools in a conservative 4-hour time period.
** g-body front wheel bearing hub replacement **
Disclaimer: I am not liable whatsoever in case you cause death/injury/damage to yourself/others/property by following these directions.
Difficulty: intermediate
Time required: 120-240mins
Tools required:
- jack stands (for safety)
- hydraulic jack
- hammer
- large screwdriver
- brass/steel brush
- propane torch
- torque wrench + 5in extension
- socket size 13mm
- socket size 15mm
- socket size 16mm
- socket size 3/4in or wheel lug wrench
- socket size 34mm (available for rental at any autozon3)
- 5 ton 3-jaw puller (available for rental at any autozon3)
Parts required:
- front wheel bearing hub assembly (from this point simply referred to as "hub") part# 07470017 or equivalent
This hub is available at autozon3 with a 1-year warranty for $120
** part 1 - disassembly **
The jack might not clear the engine cradle - drive onto boards to increase clearance. Loosen the wheel lugs prior to lifing the car
Oncle lifted place jackstands under the rear engine cradle hardpoints for safety
Remove the wheel
Insert a large screwdriver into the rotor as shown - this will stop it from turning when removing the axle nut
Using the 34mm socket remove the axle nut. Mine came off rather easily
Axle nut removed
The caliper is held on to the bracket by two 15mm bolts. Once these are removed, simply slide the caliper off the rotor
I recommend securing the caliper to the spring as to not damage the brake line
Remove the rotor
I used a bit of penetrating oil to ease the removal of hub anchor bolts
The hub is held on to the knuckle by three 13mm bolts - a 5in extension is a must for clerance
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to access two of the bolts for the driver side hub. The passenger side hub is opposite
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to access the last bolt for the driver side hub. The passenger side hub is opposite
Dislocate the hub by striking the inner side of the hub spindle with a hammer
Carefully install the puller onto the hub spindle. Adjust by hand and make sure the puller bolt makes good contact with the axle. Take your time - it is imperative for the puller to be mounted straight and level. Once the puller is attached to the spindle use a 16mm socket to further tighten the puller bolt by hand.
Once the puller is on firmly again check that it is on straight/level. At this time tighten the puller bolt with the torque wrench to no more than ~250 ft/lb. Insert a long screwdriver into the hub flange to prevent it from spinning.
At this point there are one of two outcomes:
1. The hub will simply come off - disconnect the speed sensor, remove the hub and skip to the second part of this tutorial
2. The hub will not come off - my hub would not budge even with 250 ft/lb of force. In the event this happens DO NOT apply any more force on the puller - it can break apart causing severe injury. Disconnect the break pad wear/speed sensors from the metal shield
The remedy for a stuck hub
Heat both sides of the hub for 3-5mins per side. Once the hub is heated attempt to turn the puller bolt. Repeat if necessary - it took roughly 10mins of heating for my hub to break free from the spindle. Once the puller bolt is easy to turn discontinue the heating - the hub is dislodged
Once the hub breaks free from the spindle it will come off with relative ease
New and old hubs side by side
** part 2 - reassembly **
The axle and steering knuckle assembly must be free of debris before installing the new hub
Use a brass/steel brush to remove any debris
Grease the bore of the hub to ease installation (optional)
Seat the hub on the axle and reconnect the speed sensor - make sure to pass it through the steering knuckle assembly
Reattach the hub to the knuckle with the three 13mm bolts. Tighten each of the bolts a bit at a time and torque to 70 ft/lb
Reconnect the break pad wear/speed sensors from the metal shield
Replace the axle nut but do not tighten at this time
Replace the rotor
Replace the caliper and align the mounting points
Attach the caliper with two 15mm bolts. Torque to 130 ft/lb
Insert a large screwdriver into the rotor as shown - this will stop it from turning when reinstalling the axle nut
Using the 34mm socket reinstall the axle nut. Torque to 120 ft/lb
The hub is replaced!
Reinstall the wheel nuts by hand and lower the car. Tighten each of the bolts a bit at a time and torque to 100 ft/lb
All done! Celebrated with rum and coke in honor of JimW!
Final thoughts: After all the horror stories I still took the plunge and must say it was worth it. Saving $800 off the dealer quote had nothing to do with it
In all, g-body hub replacement is not that difficult quite rewarding. However, one thing to keep in mind when tackling a hub replacement is that right tools are key for this job. Do not attempt without the tools mentioned. I hit an (according to folks at caddyinfo.com) unlikely snag with the stuck hub - It simply would not budge! I did not want my hub to seperate and refrained from chiseling, prying and striking. The torch was a lifesaver and after heating the hub for what seemed like and eternity (only about 10mins but time slows to a crawl in situations like this), I was able to remove the hub with ease! Like it was never stuck in the first place. Had the same problem (and solution) three years back with my dad's '93 concorde. But I digress. As for the puller itself, it's available at any autozon3 for purchase or rent for $40 (autozon3 refunds your money once you bring the tool back). Other places sell it as well but I don't see myself using the puller enough to justify a purchase. I want to thank JimW for inspiration, folks from caddyinfo.com for help with diagnosis and torque specifications and lastly gm for designing a hub that often requires replacement at 50k miles or less 
dealer repair quote was outrageous and unacceptable. In this tutorial I will demonstrate how to replace a very, very stubborn front wheel bearing hub replacement procedure for a net cost of $120 using standard tools in a conservative 4-hour time period.** g-body front wheel bearing hub replacement **
Disclaimer: I am not liable whatsoever in case you cause death/injury/damage to yourself/others/property by following these directions.
Difficulty: intermediate
Time required: 120-240mins
Tools required:
- jack stands (for safety)
- hydraulic jack
- hammer
- large screwdriver
- brass/steel brush
- propane torch
- torque wrench + 5in extension
- socket size 13mm
- socket size 15mm
- socket size 16mm
- socket size 3/4in or wheel lug wrench
- socket size 34mm (available for rental at any autozon3)
- 5 ton 3-jaw puller (available for rental at any autozon3)
Parts required:
- front wheel bearing hub assembly (from this point simply referred to as "hub") part# 07470017 or equivalent
This hub is available at autozon3 with a 1-year warranty for $120
** part 1 - disassembly **
The jack might not clear the engine cradle - drive onto boards to increase clearance. Loosen the wheel lugs prior to lifing the car
Oncle lifted place jackstands under the rear engine cradle hardpoints for safety
Remove the wheel
Insert a large screwdriver into the rotor as shown - this will stop it from turning when removing the axle nut
Using the 34mm socket remove the axle nut. Mine came off rather easily
Axle nut removed
The caliper is held on to the bracket by two 15mm bolts. Once these are removed, simply slide the caliper off the rotor
I recommend securing the caliper to the spring as to not damage the brake line
Remove the rotor
I used a bit of penetrating oil to ease the removal of hub anchor bolts
The hub is held on to the knuckle by three 13mm bolts - a 5in extension is a must for clerance
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to access two of the bolts for the driver side hub. The passenger side hub is opposite
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to access the last bolt for the driver side hub. The passenger side hub is opposite
Dislocate the hub by striking the inner side of the hub spindle with a hammer
Carefully install the puller onto the hub spindle. Adjust by hand and make sure the puller bolt makes good contact with the axle. Take your time - it is imperative for the puller to be mounted straight and level. Once the puller is attached to the spindle use a 16mm socket to further tighten the puller bolt by hand.
Once the puller is on firmly again check that it is on straight/level. At this time tighten the puller bolt with the torque wrench to no more than ~250 ft/lb. Insert a long screwdriver into the hub flange to prevent it from spinning.
At this point there are one of two outcomes:
1. The hub will simply come off - disconnect the speed sensor, remove the hub and skip to the second part of this tutorial
2. The hub will not come off - my hub would not budge even with 250 ft/lb of force. In the event this happens DO NOT apply any more force on the puller - it can break apart causing severe injury. Disconnect the break pad wear/speed sensors from the metal shield
The remedy for a stuck hub
Heat both sides of the hub for 3-5mins per side. Once the hub is heated attempt to turn the puller bolt. Repeat if necessary - it took roughly 10mins of heating for my hub to break free from the spindle. Once the puller bolt is easy to turn discontinue the heating - the hub is dislodged
Once the hub breaks free from the spindle it will come off with relative ease
New and old hubs side by side
** part 2 - reassembly **
The axle and steering knuckle assembly must be free of debris before installing the new hub
Use a brass/steel brush to remove any debris
Grease the bore of the hub to ease installation (optional)
Seat the hub on the axle and reconnect the speed sensor - make sure to pass it through the steering knuckle assembly
Reattach the hub to the knuckle with the three 13mm bolts. Tighten each of the bolts a bit at a time and torque to 70 ft/lb
Reconnect the break pad wear/speed sensors from the metal shield
Replace the axle nut but do not tighten at this time
Replace the rotor
Replace the caliper and align the mounting points
Attach the caliper with two 15mm bolts. Torque to 130 ft/lb
Insert a large screwdriver into the rotor as shown - this will stop it from turning when reinstalling the axle nut
Using the 34mm socket reinstall the axle nut. Torque to 120 ft/lb
The hub is replaced!
Reinstall the wheel nuts by hand and lower the car. Tighten each of the bolts a bit at a time and torque to 100 ft/lb
All done! Celebrated with rum and coke in honor of JimW!
Final thoughts: After all the horror stories I still took the plunge and must say it was worth it. Saving $800 off the dealer quote had nothing to do with it
In all, g-body hub replacement is not that difficult quite rewarding. However, one thing to keep in mind when tackling a hub replacement is that right tools are key for this job. Do not attempt without the tools mentioned. I hit an (according to folks at caddyinfo.com) unlikely snag with the stuck hub - It simply would not budge! I did not want my hub to seperate and refrained from chiseling, prying and striking. The torch was a lifesaver and after heating the hub for what seemed like and eternity (only about 10mins but time slows to a crawl in situations like this), I was able to remove the hub with ease! Like it was never stuck in the first place. Had the same problem (and solution) three years back with my dad's '93 concorde. But I digress. As for the puller itself, it's available at any autozon3 for purchase or rent for $40 (autozon3 refunds your money once you bring the tool back). Other places sell it as well but I don't see myself using the puller enough to justify a purchase. I want to thank JimW for inspiration, folks from caddyinfo.com for help with diagnosis and torque specifications and lastly gm for designing a hub that often requires replacement at 50k miles or less 
, this always helps me when I feel sick in my stomach. Just don't try and tackle this kind of job inebriated cause you might forget to put something back that needs to be there 
. Seeing as well as kobalt put this tutorial together you have my full consent to do this job with mary jane as your assistant 
So I check the pass side and found only play left and right at the tie-rod. So..I ordered a new hub bearing and will tackle that and the tie-rod ends on Thursday when I am off 
