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Post by sall on May 12, 2012 20:06:18 GMT -6
While replacing the rear shocks/upper mounts not too long ago I noticed the tie rod end grease rubber bladder was a bit dry rotted. When I pulled out of the garage today and came back later parked in the driveway I noticed a little pile of grease on the garage floor. I knew it was the rubber spewing the grease.
Anyways, on to my question. Can I purchase the rubber boot separately, pop off the tie rod from the control arm and simply replace the bladderr only? If so where can I find these bladders? If not where can I find the rear tie rod end?! Discontinued on the GM parts dealers sites and unable to find on rockauto/local parts house website. May have over looked them. I don't believe the the tie rods are worn but will replace if necessary. I replaced the front whens doing struts as well.
Thanks for any input!
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Post by sall on May 12, 2012 20:28:46 GMT -6
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Post by sall on May 16, 2012 20:08:15 GMT -6
I took a look at the parts list and it lists the tie rod end dust boots for both the front and rear tie rods as '7828084'. GM parts sites want ~$12 + shipping. Having just replaced the outer tie rods, I still have the old ones in the new part boxes. So, I used those for measurements of the tapered shaft and the diameter of the tie rod end. My measurement were: OEM:Tapered Shaft Diameter: 0.59"(14.99mm) Tie Rod End Diameter: 1.37"(34.80). I measured the actual boot as well and came up with very much the same measurements. The dust boots on Advance Auto do not really list many specifications. Two of the poly retailers do however. Energy Suspension part# 9.13101 and Prothane part # 191712. Energy Suspension 9.13101:Tapered Shaft Diameter: 0.55"(14mm) Tie Rod End Diameter: 1.36"(34.55mm) Prothane 19-1712:Tapered Shaft Diameter: 0.59"(14.99mm) Tie Rod End Diameter: 1.375"(34.9mm) I opted for purchasing the Energy Suspension brand as I found them for $8 shipped on eBay. Less expensive than I could find the Prothane brand for and they should fit a bit more tight. I would have liked to use Prothane as I purchased the poly end links and sway bar bushings a couple years back form them. Also, guys I am still curious if anyone knows where to purchase the rear tie rod? |
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Post by sall on May 21, 2012 9:13:55 GMT -6
The Energy Suspension 9.13101 Tie Rod Dust boot covers arrived today and they are a perfect fit. So, if your Auroras front or rear tie rod end dust boots are cracked, stretched, torn, showing wear, etc just pop the tie rod end off the control arm and replace the dust boot. Very simple. Since these are poly they should last quite a bit longer than the OEM type.
Also, question still remains. Rear tie rod end, will '99 '2nd design' work with 95-98 first design as the part is not available 95-98(new). The only replacement I can find for '99 other than dealer is Moog # K660168. The parts all look identical so I do not see why it would not 'bolt' up. Except for the part is sold as the whole arm instead of just the tie rod/toe link.
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Post by nelson480 on May 21, 2012 12:38:34 GMT -6
Did ya grease em?
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Post by sall on May 21, 2012 13:19:36 GMT -6
Certainly!
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Post by sall on May 22, 2012 20:19:59 GMT -6
So, here is what I meant by the dust boot dumping grease! Yeah it was pretty bad but still holding enough grease to keep the tie rod lubed.   Alright, a little walk through... Loosen rear lug nuts. Block front tires. Raise rear at recommended jack point. Remove lug nuts and wheel. Place jack stand in appropriate place in addition to jack for safety. Clean up tie rod from debris, grime and grease to prevent contaminating tie rod when removing the dust boot. Wire brush and flathead screwdriver works well.  Remove Cotter Pin and Castle Nut:  Attach Tie Rod/Pitman Arm Puller:  Pop Tie Rod Out of Control Arm:  Remove OEM Dust Boot and Replace with New Poly Dust Boot:  Insert Tie Rod Stud Back in Control Arm and Tighten Castle Nut(36ft lb) Insert New Cotter Pin(1/8" x 1 1/4"). Tighten Castle Nut Another Third of a Turn:  Lube the tie rod via the zirc fitting until dust boot bloats. Put wheel and lug nuts back on. Lower car. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft lb. Job complete! This should save your rear tie rod ends and add some life. I'd check the boots if I were you the tie rod is not sold anywhere for 95-98, just to reiterate!  As mentioned the front tie rod dust boots are the same as the rear. Energy Suspension 9.13101 are a perfect fit. This job is easy and takes about 20 minutes per side. |
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Post by renaldo0613 on May 22, 2012 23:30:37 GMT -6
Good find sall
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Post by renaldo0613 on May 11, 2013 19:14:00 GMT -6
Well you all can add me to the list. As you can see I was forced to do so. I replaced both tire rod, and sway bar links on driver and passenger side. Decided to upgrade the dust boots with polyurethane dust boots from "Energy suspension" now I have two brand new spare OEM dust boots to put on the rear :-) Before  After  I had a nasty grinding noise prior to replacing both bar links, and tie rods. No more sound. I'm happy!! |
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Post by renaldo0613 on May 11, 2013 19:16:26 GMT -6
Oh yeah. That chip on the control didn't come from me! I used the same tool as sall did to remove the tire rod. Looked like someone had fought with changing them before lol.
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Randy T.
Administrator 
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
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Post by Randy T. on May 13, 2013 6:35:58 GMT -6
Here is a pretty decent setup with a little fabrication, you have probably seen it. rivperformance.editboard.com/t7827-write-up-custom-rear-adjustment-linksA lot of newer cars have the exact same rear control arm, the exact same rear sub-frame, these whole rear arms are easy to find on ebay in new condition. I want to replace my whole rear sometime in the future with one from a newer Cadillac. |
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Anyone know for certain the bladder size to make it easier for me 
?
