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Post by helljack6 on Sept 6, 2011 13:12:47 GMT -6
The short of it: back in july the water pump tensioner pulley went out. at that time the water pump pulley was noted as no longer being grooved but almost worn flat, 2 weeks ago water pump went out and replaced, car heats up faster than normal but doesn't over heat if I don't push it hard.
I'm "guessing" that the cause of my cooling system working harder than normal is the water pump belt (which I replaced in July) being grooved being ran by a formerly grooved now flat pulley is causing the belt to slip around it at higher speeds, such as high way/interstate driving. My knowledge for this comes from this example: driving to work in town temp never broke 200 until sitting idle in drive through for breakfast, upon moving again up to about 35mph, temp dropped back to and below 200. 3 hours later, took car out on the interstate for about 6 miles, temps went upwards of 220-240 for the duration, upon getting off the interstate, traveling 2 miles from the exit doing speeds of no more than 35-40mph, temp came back down to 200 just prior to car shutting off in front of my office.
I theorize that because my "new" water pump belt is V'd and grooved, that the less surface contact it is making with the water pump drive pulley is actually causing it to slip as it is being worn flatter thus causing higher than normal (220-240) operating temps at higher speeds. Essentially, I believe I'm moving water, just not enough water to keep up with the higher demands of highway/interstate driving.
I have done a great deal of reading, I have deleted the under hood black thing, I flushed the system this past weekend, added water wetter, you name it. I don't believe that it's a blown head gasket as I do see any other indications that it would be.
Does anyone have the write up or "book procedure" on how to remove/replace the water pump drive pulley? I have it on order from Autozone and so far I know I need a pulley kit to remove it, but have no clue what I'm suppose to use to replace the new one.
Your thoughts and knowledge are welcomed!
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Post by nelson480 on Sept 6, 2011 13:41:05 GMT -6
Have you changed the tensioner?
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Post by helljack6 on Sept 6, 2011 13:43:20 GMT -6
Yes, tensioner and belt were replaced back in July, that's when I first noticed the water pump drive pulley had been worn literally flat.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2011 13:57:11 GMT -6
Good to see you have done your research!
You already did the hood mod, water wetter, but it sounds like those wouldn't have helped you anyways. You are seeing the increased temps at highway speeds right? Which is the odd part. At highway speeds the amount of air moving across the front of the car should be more then enough to keep your car at the 200 mark.
Here are the two, easy, cheap, options. Grab a new coolant reservoir cap from THE DEALER. Not Autozone. I went through three of them before finally just going to the dealer. It's only a few bucks more (Maybe 12 instead of 8). Replace that. Still no change in temp, grab a new thermostat and throw that bad boy in!
The new pump could be faulty, but not likely. The surface area on the pulley and belt would have little, if anything to do with your rising temps. We all have the same pulleys and most of us dont see that temp.
You said the water pump went out? When it went out did the car over heat?
My theory is, when the water pump went out it may have released some debris into the system itself. Clogging the thermostat. When you did the flush it may have pushed even more debris into the thermostat. Thats why its recommended to always take the T-stat out when performing cooling system maintenance.
So, new reservoir cap, new t-stat, and I think you will be in business.
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Post by helljack6 on Sept 6, 2011 14:14:58 GMT -6
Ahahaha, was hoping I could get away from the long version, but necessity requires it. I have changed the thermostat and the cap and pretty much everything up to radiator replacement/HG replacement. Anything I could do on the cheap, has been pretty much done. Also, immediately after the flush I changed the oil and OF as well. You don't believe that the surface contact of the pulley wouldn't make a difference in the amount of turning force being put on the water pump itself to move water? Perhaps my not creative skills will help:  My belt now looks like the image on the left instead of the image on the right because the pulley grooves have been worn completely smooth so there's nothing for the V on the belt to actually grip into as it should look in the image on the right. |
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Post by roara on Sept 6, 2011 18:35:40 GMT -6
Yes, tensioner and belt were replaced back in July, that's when I first noticed the water pump drive pulley had been worn literally flat. Boy, if that pulley is worn flat I'm calling that the problem. You have a flat pulley trying to grip three points on a v-belt. Are you smelling burning belt? |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 7, 2011 7:34:35 GMT -6
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on Sept 7, 2011 9:02:35 GMT -6
Replace the pulley if it's worn. Get the puller Randy listed, or Auto Zone has a rental tool that works. Installation IIRC is just press it on with a bolt & washer threaded into the cam until it's flush. It's easy, and I have a spare used pulley if you want it.
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Post by helljack6 on Sept 7, 2011 14:14:44 GMT -6
Got the pulley and was going to try to be slick about it and do it at work with my guys since we have all the tools you could ever want to work on a Blackhawk, yeah, nothing worked for automotive purposes. So I'm going to go and get the pulley kit from harbor freight. I'm guessing that I'll have to remove the top hose or is the pulley remover short enough to get in there without removing it?
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Post by helljack6 on Sept 11, 2011 19:06:00 GMT -6
Here's the old pulley:  |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 13, 2011 6:47:30 GMT -6
Replace the pulley if it's worn. Get the puller Randy listed, or Auto Zone has a rental tool that works. Installation IIRC is just press it on with a bolt & washer threaded into the cam until it's flush. It's easy, and I have a spare used pulley if you want it. The removal tool, is also an installation tool. I am sure the bolt and washer does the same thing, though. Got the pulley and was going to try to be slick about it and do it at work with my guys since we have all the tools you could ever want to work on a Blackhawk, yeah, nothing worked for automotive purposes. So I'm going to go and get the pulley kit from harbor freight. I'm guessing that I'll have to remove the top hose or is the pulley remover short enough to get in there without removing it? A $500 Mac pulley remover kit wouldn't do it either, lol. |
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on Jan 2, 2013 10:40:34 GMT -6
I've had these photos for a while, figured this thread could use them. Here is the proper tool for pulley removal. Just line up the two halves with the non-beveled side towards the pulley...  Slide the ring over the halves, securing the puller to the pulley...  Now screw in the big, flat-bottom bolt to pull the pulley...  Reinstallation uses this dual-stage bolt that screws into the camshaft...  Now wrench to press the pulley on until the tool bottoms out on the camshaft (pulley flush with end.)  HTH! |
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 2, 2013 16:33:30 GMT -6
Thanks BOB i always got confused using these pulley remover tool!!!
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Post by sall on Jan 2, 2013 16:43:30 GMT -6
Yeah it's not place a place for brute force or air tools.
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