|
|
Post by dens95olds on Oct 12, 2011 0:13:22 GMT -6
I just failed my smog test. Visual passed, emissions passed, but the fuel evaporative controls failed. Anybody knows how to fix that? The smog guy says my tank is leaking hydro carbons. I just put a new fuel pump with new seal and the fuel rail and return pipe have been done by the dealer, so that leaves the evap hose on top of the tank to the canister, which looks like it's new. I wonder if the dealer has changed that also. I would imagine they would have to pinch that when they apply pressure into my tank. So what else would cause my pressure to release out of my tank?
Btw: I'm not dripping fuel anywhere, nor do I smell fuel vapors in the rear.
|
|
RCA1186
Administrator 
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837 
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Oct 12, 2011 9:26:14 GMT -6
Double check the seal is seated correctly on the fuel pump. When I changed mine I ended up getting a trouble code that indicated my gas cap was left off but it turned out when I put the pump back on the seal didn't seat correctly and was even leaking fuel! (Found that one out by filling my tank then having my buddy swerve around while I watched the pump in the trunk LOL
|
|
RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Oct 12, 2011 9:28:11 GMT -6
Dang California requires emissions testing on 95s?! Here its only 96 and newer with obd2
|
|
|
|
Post by dens95olds on Oct 12, 2011 19:37:15 GMT -6
@rca, thanks, I did reseat the pump, that sucker is tight. I wonder if my canister is bad. Do those go bad? I found out there is a smoke test that can be done by shop.
|
|
RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Oct 12, 2011 21:22:11 GMT -6
I'd say any part of the EVAP system could be suspect. Have you checked out the Evap Purge solenoid? Its over by the PCV valve, at least it is on the 99.
|
|
|
|
Post by dens95olds on Oct 13, 2011 18:50:14 GMT -6
@rca, the purge valve is new. You that that rubber connector the goes on top of the throttle body? I had a tear on that(vacuum leak), so when I tried to buy one, it's a dealer item, and you can only buy it with the whole harness including the purge valve. It was annoying, so I went to a shop and had the smoke test done for $55 bucks, smoke was coming out of the canister by the hose. So, it's either the hose or canister. Anyone know how to test the canister? I wil probably change the hoses either way, if I can buy it somewhere. but the canister is a hundred bones, hate to replace it if it's good.
|
|
RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Oct 13, 2011 19:36:01 GMT -6
Maybe a junkyard part? Not sure on a way to test the cannister.
|
|
|
|
Post by dens95olds on Oct 13, 2011 21:24:50 GMT -6
Holy crap! The hoses are junkyard part! You're right man. Im thinking those bulk hoses rolled in spools they have at Oreillys.
|
|
|
|
Post by lanceslambos on Oct 15, 2011 1:58:09 GMT -6
that's ludacris, thanks again Al Gore
|
|
|
|
Post by dens95olds on Oct 23, 2011 14:18:56 GMT -6
Finally passed! Whew! So I ended up replacing the canister and 2 short rubber hoses that connects from the canister to the two plastic pipes that leads to the tank and purge valve. The rubber hoses were cracked and the canister needed to be replaced.
To test the canister:
Attach a hose to the pipe that leads to the tank and blow air. It suppose to flow, mine barely did. Replace if blocked according to fsm.
Attach the hose to pipe leading to evap purge valve and blow. Should not flow, mine flow ed without resistance. So must be replaced according fsm.
To get to the canister would be tricky to a weekend warrior like me, I just happened to watch, how the mechanic that did the smoke test, got to it. He lowered my exhaust pipes by popping the rubber hangers in the rear both sides and the middle, while supported by a jack. Then lowered it just enough to get the canister out.
I'm not sure if a functioning canister has anything to do with cold starts (I thought I read something about that), but my car seems to start pretty strong now, not that I have ever had any problems before.
|
|
|
|
Post by dens95olds on Oct 23, 2011 14:47:54 GMT -6
that's ludacris, thanks again Al Gore If you think that's ridiculous, we (as a resident of the area I live in) have to get a parking permit yearly from city hall, or we get parking tickets. We live close to BART, which the rail system in the bay area. In order to protect the residents rights to park in front of their homes, they must get the parking permits. You don't always remember when it expires, or like me, I had to get new plates so my permit didn't reflect the correct license, so I got ticked 3 days in a row, because I was away. Once ticketed, showing proof of residency isn't enough to write the ticket off, you now must pay. I think residence get more victimized than protected by that ordinance. It's revenue generating so it's hard to get it changed. In the last year, I've paid over $400 in parking tickets alone. |
|
RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Oct 23, 2011 17:51:18 GMT -6
did you end up getting the parts from a yard or new?
|
|
|
|
Post by dens95olds on Oct 29, 2011 20:57:27 GMT -6
did you end up getting the parts from a yard or new? No, I ended up buying the canister from a auto supply store. The short rubber hoses I bought from pepboys, they are just fuel lines. A 3/8" and a 5/16" id, and just cut it a lil longer than original, cuz original is formed. The plastic pipes that cannot be bought any where was still good. I think those plastic pipes last forever, as long as they're away from heat. The 5/16 was a pain to get around the pipe though, cuz both pipes were 3/8". |
|
Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Oct 31, 2011 7:51:59 GMT -6
|
|
