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Post by ntrenn on Jan 8, 2013 13:27:08 GMT -6
$1100 is a lot of money to throw at an oil leak no matter how you look at it. For the DIY, it's only $30 or so for the Fel-pro pan gasket and even less for the GM part number RTV. Another one of those $500 in labor, $20 in parts repairs. The 3400 literally was $40 in parts and 2 days work.
When I've nothing to do, I'll be over at my uncle's using his lift to pull the powerpack and reseal mine, but until then, it's going to leak.
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Post by sall on Jan 8, 2013 13:48:54 GMT -6
Oil is cheaper than the repair unless it's gushing. Only something I would do if I had the engine or trans already out. You can try the Permatex Spray'n'Seal. I have a can but have not taken the time to use it. I think Bobsblue was the one who suggested it but am not sure if he has tried it as of yet. If you remove the engine or trans may as well go back in with at minimum reloaded Torque-Axis Motor Mount and Trans Mounts. Guarantee if they haven't been replaced they are shot. |
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Post by nelson480 on Jan 8, 2013 16:52:45 GMT -6
$1100 is a lot of money to throw at an oil leak no matter how you look at it. For the DIY, it's only $30 or so for the Fel-pro pan gasket and even less for the GM part number RTV. Another one of those $500 in labor, $20 in parts repairs. The 3400 literally was $40 in parts and 2 days work. When I've nothing to do, I'll be over at my uncle's using his lift to pull the powerpack and reseal mine, but until then, it's going to leak. I used ultra blue. Dealer stuff was way too expensive |
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 8, 2013 22:33:44 GMT -6
so i guess a little high mileage oil and constant checking would be better than nothing. another place would charger around 900. if i knew someone who had a motor lift and a garage id probably just do it myself
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Post by ntrenn on Jan 9, 2013 8:58:33 GMT -6
I've got a buddy in the Asheville area that has every toy known to man. I'll bet he has one. Be careful though, he shoots clay pigeons with a 45....
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bobsblue95
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Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
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Post by bobsblue95 on Jan 9, 2013 15:10:47 GMT -6
<snip>You can try the Permatex Spray'n'Seal. I have a can but have not taken the time to use it. I think Bobsblue was the one who suggested it but am not sure if he has tried it as of yet. I haven't, mainly due to lack of decent facilities to get under the car to really clean it. Once the weather gets good again I'm going to have to pull my engine anyway to investigate a transmission noise, so I'll be doing a reseal at that time and probably biking to work for a few days. |
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Jan 9, 2013 15:59:55 GMT -6
Yeah your trans sounds like it's sick, Bob... ;D
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bobsblue95
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Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
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Post by bobsblue95 on Jan 9, 2013 22:06:10 GMT -6
Yeah, but she don't stop !
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Jan 9, 2013 22:13:51 GMT -6
True story! She's a trooper! My car and broken trans were sitting in Kansas City on a lift at the time so I can't really talk lol
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 9, 2013 22:26:50 GMT -6
i guess it could be worse. i want to get a parts car so i can experiment on it. especially removing the oil pan while the engine is still in the car
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Jan 9, 2013 22:37:04 GMT -6
That wouldn't be a big deal at all, I almost did that anyway. If I had drained the oil already when I was going to drop the motor I would have redone done the lower pan seal.
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 10, 2013 23:48:32 GMT -6
well would it better to reseal my motor which has 220,xxx miles on it or go ahead and find a newer engine, or parts car with less mileage and reseal that because one of the guys i work with said he could help me with a place to do it and a lift, i just don't feel like going thru all that trouble and my engine decides to not start again.
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 11, 2013 0:06:57 GMT -6
Cheaper route would be to find the parts car and yank the engine out of that one. Reseal, and if uou have the money, amd skill set get the headgasket set from northstarperformance.com
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Post by wireless on Jan 11, 2013 3:35:28 GMT -6
^ agreed. Have your heads machined, get the head studs as well.
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 11, 2013 15:58:31 GMT -6
and if the heads are fine is it even worth messing with.
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Post by sall on Jan 11, 2013 16:44:30 GMT -6
IMO any time you are going to swap a salvage yard N* motor absolute minimum is studding the block. My curiosity would eat me alive and I would be tearing into it though. You never know what you are getting with car who's history in unknown to you.
Removing the oil pan in the car without cutting the crossover is not going to happen due to the oil pickup tube. I can get to every single bolt but there simply is not enough room to lower the pan to clear the pickup. There pictures posted in a thread somewhere. It just is not going to happen. Three ways to do it. Remove trans, remove engine, cut exhaust crossover.
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 11, 2013 17:37:46 GMT -6
and if the heads are fine is it even worth messing with. Like sall said if your going to go the junk yard route, at the least u wanna still stud the block, and replace the head gaskets. The kit is somewhere around $500 from northstarperformace. And also reseal the engine just like u want to as well. Thats less than $700 of work to knock out all the N* killer defects and not have to worry about them ever!!! Again. Its jist way easier to do while u have the motor out. Look at it like this. Say a sensor is bad on the newly acquired motor, then all u gotta do is swap with the one thats on your original motor granted it works. Like i said if u have the skill, money then do it! |
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 11, 2013 17:40:04 GMT -6
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 11, 2013 20:07:02 GMT -6
well in the mean time will tightening those bolts somewhat help or is it just a bust, i haven't found any parts cars yet so im stuck..
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 11, 2013 20:12:28 GMT -6
well in the mean time will tightening those bolts somewhat help or is it just a bust, i haven't found any parts cars yet so im stuck.. Yup wont hurt to try. |
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 11, 2013 20:20:04 GMT -6
and whats up with that permatex stuff that sall was talking about because i'm due for an oil change and it might be worth a try
also is these types of leaks common with n*s or just the 4.0 cause i found a 00 STS for 950 and i might check it out
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 11, 2013 20:33:21 GMT -6
and whats up with that permatex stuff that sall was talking about because i'm due for an oil change and it might be worth a try also is these types of leaks common with n*s or just the 4.0 cause i found a 00 STS for 950 and i might check it out I think that permatec will work. Nit sure if were supposed to pull engine then do the spray, or leave it in. Im going to leave it in regardless and then apply. The only place that the oil pan is not exposed in plain sight is between the exhaust and oil pan (thats what the straw is for). I would drain the oil pan out first, then apply the sealent, then change it again after about 1,000 miles in case the permatex works it way into the oil pan some type of way. The oil leaks are common on all N*s 4.0 and 4.6s. |
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 11, 2013 20:43:51 GMT -6
yeah i did some further research, and i found out that the northstar is designed to use a quart every 2000 miles so i can deal with that but i figure that applying that permatec stuff might remedy the leak until I can do better.
heres another question, does anybody sell a crate N* 4.0 L47
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 11, 2013 20:49:32 GMT -6
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mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
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Post by mjwalcott on Jan 11, 2013 20:59:54 GMT -6
are they legit? id hate to send that kind of money and get screwed
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jan 11, 2013 21:14:59 GMT -6
are they legit? id hate to send that kind of money and get screwed Summit?? Or N* performance?? Both are known threw out. The dude that owns N*performace is a former member of this very forumn if i remember correctly. Hands down that the best place to get a rebuilt N* and along with that warranty you cant really beat it. Do your research so you feel comfortable with it. I was going to send my first aurora up to them to have them do the reseal, i was a week away from sendding it when i called them and told them forget about because i found someone close to replace the motor (which i regret) |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 4, 2013 20:36:46 GMT -6
What list of parts do I need to do the block reseal?
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Randy T.
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☯ AURORA GXP ☯
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 5, 2013 7:19:49 GMT -6
1. Silicone 2. Timing cover gasket 3. Oil pan gasket 4. Lower block gasket I will check my fsm.  |
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Post by lanceslambos on Mar 5, 2013 8:12:03 GMT -6
it's hard to throw $4,000 for a motor into a car worth only as much.  |
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
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Post by bobsblue95 on Mar 5, 2013 8:51:28 GMT -6
Even harder to throw $4000 or more into a whole different used car with unknown problems. I'd rather spend the money to keep fixing a car I really enjoy. Not having a car payment is worth it. Driving an Aurora is worth it. Combine the two and the value is multiplied! :-)
In addition to the gaskets mentioned, don't forget the rear main seal!!!
Less critical, because they can be done any time, other possible leaks would be front main, oil level sensor gasket and cam tensioner caps on the front of the heads.
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,xxxmi and halfway running, Beater, needs extreme help, all chipped paint and everything. Scrapped
