Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on May 21, 2009 20:33:57 GMT -6
Pull your boot off of the door side and you will see the broken wires. There is no reason to cut the boot open. Slide the boot into the body of the Aurora and stick something in it to hold it over. Strip the wires on both sides. Harbor Freight has these that I find very handy. Add heat shrink tubing. I added it to the other side later. I chose the blade type, solder less wire connectors for 2 reasons. It is easier to get vice grips in there to crimp them. And if you end up hooking up the wrong wire you can switch them around later with less hassle. Connect the wires and complete the heat shrinking. I should have cut longer pieces, so learn from my mistake. A little electric tape to finish the project. Replace your boot and you are ready to use whatever wasn't working. Congratulations!
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Post by sall on May 21, 2009 21:23:27 GMT -6
A good write-up for a simple procedure. I think this was a much needed howto. This fix pops up way too often because it leads to many problems that may seem like a much bigger fix. Sticky!
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Post by kaykirk on May 21, 2009 21:37:21 GMT -6
*gazing into my crystal ball* I see a sticky in your future ;D ;D ;D Randy T is awesome
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Randy T.
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☯ AURORA GXP ☯
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Post by Randy T. on May 22, 2009 7:31:39 GMT -6
Thank you! Hey, Kay, does that color look familiar?
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Post by kaykirk on May 22, 2009 8:30:07 GMT -6
Thank you! Hey, Kay, does that color look familiar? Yes, I noticed it right away...did you pick up another Aurora
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on May 22, 2009 11:47:10 GMT -6
Stickied to the How-To's thread. Very nice writeup, Randy!
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on May 22, 2009 23:35:42 GMT -6
Kay, yes. Pics coming soon. Collins, thank you.
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Post by ukswoosh on May 26, 2009 10:59:58 GMT -6
Very informative.
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Post by mikek on May 26, 2009 12:30:45 GMT -6
What usually stops working from these wires breaking?
Anything electrical in the door I suppose.
Power windows, light, lighter, door locks.
Does this usually happen to the driver door? Are the passenger doors susceptible also?
-mk
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Post by killroypete on May 26, 2009 14:21:40 GMT -6
My .02$... If you notice a cut wire, try to fix it as soon as possible, otherwise corrosion sets in the wire and there is less and less good metal to make contact. (From a 5 months wait to repair a similar problem in a Lumina APV.)
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Post by starfire on Sept 18, 2009 19:35:27 GMT -6
In another thread you had said you ran speaker wires for the rear doors. Would it be possible to get pictures of this.
I'm also trying to figure out how much of the front interior i would have to remove to run new speaker wires to the front doors. My current bose wiring has too many problems that i would rather not sort out
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Post by shelbyracing on Mar 25, 2012 12:38:56 GMT -6
Great job man! I just went through all this, I just used heat shrink butt connectors and a double crimper. I've been crimping things with vise grips for years cause them cheap crimpers are a pain and double crimpers from snap on are 70 bucks. However advance auto has a nice pair for 17 for those of you who are sick of using crappy crimpers ;D
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 25, 2012 21:17:51 GMT -6
I would not use butt connectors to do this job, I used some on my current Aurora and they did not last very long. I would recommend solder and heat shrink, maybe even some extra wire to extend the wires, either way, solder and heat shrink. If you don't know how to solder, watch a youtube video on how to do it, then buy the crap to do it with, it's easy.
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Post by renaldo0613 on Mar 1, 2013 11:40:41 GMT -6
Did you notice any difference in anything after the repair??
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Post by sall on Mar 1, 2013 13:39:15 GMT -6
Did you notice any difference in anything after the repair?? Certainly he did. Half the functions in driver door now worked after he fixed the wires, I'm sure. That looks like an extreme case of broken wiring though. I've only had one broken one in drivers door. Like Randy said in a later post solder in an extra piece of wire is the best option.
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Post by renaldo0613 on Mar 1, 2013 13:48:58 GMT -6
Did you notice any difference in anything after the repair?? Certainly he did. Half the functions in driver door now worked after he fixed the wires, I'm sure. That looks like an extreme case of broken wiring though. I've only had one broken one in drivers door. Like Randy said in a later post solder in an extra piece of wire is the best option. Ok cool. Ive got broken wires as well. But all my door functions work, that's why I was wondering. Oh you kow what my door actuator does not work. Perhaps that will fix it.
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Post by renaldo0613 on Mar 2, 2013 17:30:50 GMT -6
Here my 2 cents. I regained my door actuator function. Now I have chimes when the key is in the ignition, when the lights are left on, if the driver side door is adjar, and now I have the ability to unlock, and lock the doors while the car is in drive (thank goodness I got tired of putting it in park to let someone in). Thanks Randy T. Taught ne another small lesson. Check wiring of an electric componet prior to kicking out $$$$ I paid nothing for this repair. Just 15mins lol.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 11, 2013 9:15:09 GMT -6
Sweet!
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99er
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Post by 99er on Mar 17, 2014 8:21:37 GMT -6
What usually stops working from these wires breaking? Anything electrical in the door I suppose. Power windows, light, lighter, door locks. Does this usually happen to the driver door? Are the passenger doors susceptible also? -mk
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99er
Aurora Newbie
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Post by 99er on Mar 17, 2014 8:34:24 GMT -6
What usually stops working from these wires breaking? Anything electrical in the door I suppose. Power windows, light, lighter, door locks. Does this usually happen to the driver door? Are the passenger doors susceptible also? -mk Hello, I've got a '99 Autobahn with window troubles. I can control all four from the driver's panel, but can control neither the passenger front nor rear windows at the respective doors. Are the wires to those local switches in the harness for the driver's door? Thanks in advance!
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Post by sall on Mar 17, 2014 9:53:54 GMT -6
What usually stops working from these wires breaking? Anything electrical in the door I suppose. Power windows, light, lighter, door locks. Does this usually happen to the driver door? Are the passenger doors susceptible also? -mk Hello, I've got a '99 Autobahn with window troubles. I can control all four from the driver's panel, but can control neither the passenger front nor rear windows at the respective doors. Are the wires to those local switches in the harness for the driver's door? Thanks in advance! Sounds like the window lock button is 'on' or broken and stuck on.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 14, 2015 5:59:32 GMT -6
Bump! Fix your door wiring!
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Apr 4, 2015 6:28:22 GMT -6
Had a Mustang convertible with front windows inop, interior lights and chimes inop, rear quarter windows inop. First place I checked was the door wiring and sure enough it had the same problem as Auroras do, but the rear quarter windows had bad motors. With interior lights on, you could see them dim when you hit the rear window switch up and down.
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Post by wfooshee on Apr 4, 2015 17:12:57 GMT -6
Just to answer the question way long time ago about what's affected by door wiring, here's what I've come up with so far:
ANYTHING that uses the door jamb switch, which in Auroras is in the back of the door in the latch mechanism. (Many, if not most cars use a pin switch in the body, rather than a switch in the door.) Functions affected are interior lights, chimes for lights on, key in, etc. As another user found out, that includes permission to perform some functions, like unlock doors.
Windows and locks, both controlling and actuating. (Switch wiring and motor wiring both pass through the door jamb.) Front doors have lock buttons, all four doors have lock actuators. Rear doors and front right have inputs for the windows from the driver's switch panel, and their hot wire comes from the enable/disable switch in the driver's panel. You also have ground wires for the switch and for the window motors.
Power mirrors use TEN wires!!!!! Up/dn motor, lt/rt motor, up/dn position sensor (for the position memory function,) lt/rt position sensor, and mirror heater each use a pair of wires at each front door. One wire for up/dn and one for lt/rt is common to both sides, and it goes to the left door first, then comes back out to go to the right door, so TWELVE mirror wires on the left.
Seat position switches on both front doors: fore/aft, front up/dn, rear up/dn, backrest recline up/dn, upper lumbar inflate/deflate, lower lumbar inflate/deflate. Then you have the three switches in the driver's door for memory function, and both front doors have a switch for seat heat.
There is a switch in the lock cylinder in each front door that detects unlocking the door with the key, an input for the anti-theft system. One of those breaks, the alarm goes off when you open the door with the key.
Passenger door has the heater-A/C temperature control.
There is night-time illumination for the switches. There are also the courtesy lamps in the doors that illuminate with the interior lights.
I counted close to 60 wires for each front door.
The rear doors are nothing by comparison, I think 16 wires in the rear doors.
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Post by garyjr on Apr 3, 2019 21:00:18 GMT -6
Where do i need to be looking for wires ,broken or burnt. for the gauges and dic .
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 4, 2019 6:23:01 GMT -6
Where do i need to be looking for wires ,broken or burnt. for the gauges and dic . What are your symptoms?
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Post by garyjr on Apr 4, 2019 9:04:46 GMT -6
No dic . no gas . temp. Rpms . spedo . i got 2 spots with power going in the clusters but thats all i got lights and info lights .. Also lost some door controles o. Drivers side . i got like 5 fuses in the dash fuse box with 0 power also i pulled out all fuses under back seat in a hurry and not sure i got every thing in right spot . a pic of someones fuse box would be helpfull
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 4, 2019 13:06:48 GMT -6
I/P 1&2 fuses under back seat follow a lot of these symptoms. If I remember when I get out of work I'll post up fuse box pictures.
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Post by garyjr on Apr 4, 2019 21:21:59 GMT -6
Ip1 and ip2 fuses are good .
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Post by garyjr on Apr 16, 2019 19:58:57 GMT -6
Ok up date . iv noticed my odometer still works thats got me puzzled
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