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Post by jamboiga on Sept 12, 2005 12:54:17 GMT -6
Has anyone else had any problems with power windows failing on their 01 Aurora?? I have had all 4 mechanisms break, now that my right rear passenger window dropped while the engine was off and the car sitting in the driveway. Driver's side window failed after it had been lowered and could not be raised again. All 3 other ones failed without the window even being in operation. The windows just drop down on their own and the warranty work papers say that the motor/regulator was replaced.
This latest failure happened out of warranty, but I plan to try to argue with GM to replace it on their nickel. Obviously defective parts from the get-go.
So, has anyone experienced this problem and, if so, do they know how the window mechanism actually fails??
Thanks!
Jim
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Post by Custom88 on Sept 12, 2005 14:54:25 GMT -6
This is a very VERY common problem. It's not only the Aurora that has this issue, but the Bonneville, and LeSabre also suffer from it because they use the same parts as the Aurora. The problem is just a bad design from GM. There is a tiny cable that rubs against little plastic "guides." Over time either the cheap guides break, or the cable stretches to the point that it frays and snaps causing the window to drop down into the door. Our 2000 Bonneville has had one window regulator break so far. The average Bonneville owner has experienced atleast 3 failures by the time they hit 100,000 miles. If you want directions on how to replace the regulators themselves let me know. I've done them before. Additionally, if you need to see links to where you can buy these regulators refurbished and improved, let me know that, too. I can tell you that GM isn't going to help you out of warranty though. here's a picture of the 'culprit'. *Please note that there are several different regulator threads on www.bonnevilleclub.com under the 2000+ section. We see atleast one post per two weeks over there pertaining to just this one problem alone!
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Post by jamboiga on Sept 12, 2005 22:57:26 GMT -6
Yes, I would really like to have repair directions, as I have not yet purchased the factory repair manual for this car. Would also like the links to where I can buy a rehabbed/ improved part. The only thing that irks me more than GM (or other manufacturers) putting defective parts in their cars is when I find out that my only choice for replacement part is another defective "new" part from the manufacturer!
Thanks! Jim
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Post by Custom88 on Sept 13, 2005 14:20:20 GMT -6
To start first remove the door handle Bezel with a flat screwdriver. Next guide the inside door handle through the opening in the door handle bezel. Now its time for the door trim, use a fork type tool to pry out the trim retainers. Becarful not to pry against the trim as it will punture. There are seven retainers. Pull on the armrest hard to unlock the pull cup retainers. Rock the door trim panel (1) upwards, starting at the rear, while lifting upwards to remove. Disconnect the door trim panel wiring harness. Now is a good time to remove the armrest pull cup retainers from the inside of the door trim panel. Use needle nose pliers to compress the 360 clip. Pull the 360 clip out of the nylon nut on the door trim panel. Install the 360 clip to the nylon nuts on the inner door panel by sliding the 360 clip down into the grooves in the nylon nuts. You can now remove the Door control Remove the door control module fasteners. Remove the door control module. Now you can remove the water deflector, much the same as the door trim. Remove the push in retainers at the upper corners of the water deflector. Push the wiring harness through the slit in the water deflector. Carefully peel the water deflector away from the door, being careful not to damage the sealing strip. Here is the window regulator, by now youve got about 25 minutes in this already. To remove loosen the window retainer to window clamp fasteners 4 revolutions. Lower the window regulator about half way down. Disconnect the electrical connector from the power window motor. Remove the window regulator to inner door panel fasteners (1, 2, 3). Tilt the motor end of the window regulator to the forward end of the door. Tilt the top of the regulator toward the lower rear corner of the door. Remove the regulator through the front access hole in the door panel. To install just run this prodedure in reverse and dont forget to tighten the glass back up. --------------------------------------- search.ebay.com/Aurora-window-regulator_W0QQfrppZ50QQfsopZ1QQmaxrecordsreturnedZ300here are a few results for improved regulators on Ebay. I had a direct link to the actual auction but it wasn't working on this board for some reason. I've ordered these 'improved' units and they work great. It's been in the Bonneville now for 4 months with no issues whatsoever.
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bufo
Aurora Owner
Beautiful North Carolina
Posts: 555
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Post by bufo on Sept 13, 2005 20:45:00 GMT -6
Good info--thanks.
We had two 1998 Intrigues. One had recurring problems with the power windows, but not the other. We're down to one Intrigue and of course, the Aurora. So far, the windows still work.
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Post by erw38 on Sept 13, 2005 21:45:39 GMT -6
Hey Dan, Can you let me know when to by improved design regulators. My sister had one fail on her car and the one that we replaced it with failed again. ( Thanx in advance
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Post by Custom88 on Sept 13, 2005 21:50:13 GMT -6
what kind of car does your sister own? Is it the 2000+ Bonneville, LeSabre, 98+ Park Avenue, Aurora, etc? If so, GM isn't going to improve the design. They deny that there's a problem. The parts from GM will keep failing. The ebay link I provided has improved regulators that are designed to fix the shortcomings of the GM part. Hopefully they really are improved. I have yet to hear of one of those Ebay replacement parts to fail though.
I will definately let you know if I hear GM doing anything about this though.
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Post by jamboiga on Sept 13, 2005 23:05:10 GMT -6
Custom 88-- thanks so very much for the instructions and for the link to the rehabbed regulators. I appreciate it very much.
I certainly will be interested in what I find when I open up that rear door--whether the cable broke or whether the plastic guide(s) failed. Neither rear window has been cycled more than 6 times since the car was new and that may be exaggerating. The car did spend the first two years of life in south Florida and it is a dark cherry color, so I am suspecting plastic guide failure. If the cable is broken, then it is indeed a cheap, faulty design because there would have been next to no wear and tear on the cable from operating the window.
I will follow up and let all of you know what I find as well as how the job went. Thanks again for the valuable info.
Thanks! Jim
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Post by betonthis1 on Sept 13, 2005 23:25:58 GMT -6
wow, that has to be thee best write-up i have ever seen.
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Post by kobalt on Sept 14, 2005 15:19:33 GMT -6
jamboiga, slam the car door shut a time or two - worked for many folks before (including myself)
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Post by Letitroll98 on Sept 14, 2005 20:18:46 GMT -6
jamboiga, slam the car door shut a time or two - worked for many folks before (including myself) Good one kobalt. That's what I do.
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Post by Custom88 on Sept 14, 2005 20:36:30 GMT -6
Unfortunately for us slamming the door isn't going to magically fix a broken cable inside of the door. I don't really see what slamming the door is going to accomplish personally.
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Post by kobalt on Sept 16, 2005 0:59:44 GMT -6
Excuse me for suggesting a non invasive procedure
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Post by auroralover on Sept 18, 2005 7:13:38 GMT -6
Actually, when I got my right front window regulator replaced, they had to order the part, which would take a couple of days to ship. In the meantime, the mechanic told me he got the window working. He explained that the motors on these have a "flat spot", and if you just tap it with a hammer a few times, it will work. Not a permanant fix, but if you dont have the $, a simple solution. My motor/regulator (they are one piece), ran me $379 installed. I would try this first. Or as Kobalt stated, try slamming the door a couple times, could very well work!
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Post by Custom88 on Sept 18, 2005 10:15:06 GMT -6
It could work. I give it a 1/8 chance it'll work. It's almost always a broken cable. I've seen so many of these power windows fail and every single one of them that I've seen myself, in person, have been a broken cable.
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Post by RapMastaC1 on Nov 19, 2006 20:54:05 GMT -6
could this apply to the '95?
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meddler
Aurora Watcher
CHANGE OIL NOW
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Post by meddler on Nov 29, 2006 17:30:27 GMT -6
Will the above diagrams work on a 99' Aurora as well?
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Post by Custom88 on Nov 29, 2006 19:00:38 GMT -6
No, the 95-99 Aurora have a completely different procedure for removing the door panels. This generation of Aurora shouldn't have this same problem. They're a completely different design for the window regulator.
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Post by aurorabrain on Nov 29, 2006 22:02:44 GMT -6
Sorry, but i had to do this.... I think the illustrations you have are for a Riviera. The Service manual has an error, and they have the wrong stuff posted under door trim panel replacement. It should be like this... Front Side Door Trim Panel Replacement Removal Procedure Caution: Disconnect the power window switch when working inside the driver door. When operated, the Express Up/Down Feature allows the door window to move very quickly, without stopping, which could cause personal injury. 1. Remove the bezel finish cover (3) from the door handle bezel (2). Using a thin-bladed tool, unsnap the upper tab. 2. Remove 1 screw from the door handle bezel. 3. Unsnap the door handle bezel (2). 4. Lift off the bezel over the door handle in order to remove the bezel. 5. Remove the 2 screws from the lower door under the map pocket. 6. Lift the trim panel (1) upward in order to disengage the hooks (2) on the backside of the panel. 7. Disconnect the electrical connectors. 8. Remove the door trim panel (1). Reverse these instructions to re-install.
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Post by Custom88 on Nov 29, 2006 22:24:03 GMT -6
ah crap. I didn't even notice it was for the wrong car. lol. I should have known.. I used to own a 97 Riviera! I'll delete my post above regarding the instructions. Thanks aurorabrain!
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Post by RapMastaC1 on Nov 30, 2006 7:29:11 GMT -6
What I meant by the instructions is, how to replace the regulator, I know how to take the door off just fine. But how do I get the regulator out?
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Post by aurorabrain on Dec 2, 2006 8:18:48 GMT -6
Module Replacement - Power Window (Oldsmobile) Removal Procedure Remove the trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Front Door or Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Door . Remove the door trim hanger bracket fasteners. Remove the door trim hanger bracket. Remove the water deflector. Refer to Water Deflector Replacement - Door . Remove the inner belt strip. Remove the window retaining bolts (1). Remove the door glass. Refer to Window Replacement - Door . Raise the regulator to the top travel. Important: Remove any pieces of rivet that fall inside the door. Pieces left in the door may cause rattles. Drill out the 8 rivets on the module belt member using a 6 mm (¼ in) drill. Disconnect the window motor electrical connector. Mark all of the adjustments for future glass adjustment. Loosen the adjustments. Remove the lower rear adjustment bracket. Pull up on the module belt member in order to remove the module assembly. Installation Procedure Important: Do not allow the fasteners to fall into the door cavity during assembly. Perform the following steps in order to install the module in the door: Align the front lower blade bracket into the adjuster. Orient the adjuster against the inner panel. Install the short bolt in the top rear hole of the module. Using the previous drill holes as locator holes, loosely install the bolts, the washers and the locknuts in place of all the rivets: In order to ensure that the height adjustment is not lost, perform one of the following routines: - For the rear doors, hold up on both the front and the rear of the module when securing the bolts. - For the front doors, hold up on the rear of the module while securing the bolts. Push out the bottom of the module as far as possible. Place the adjuster onto the module stud. Install the nut. Lower the bracket in order to ensure that the bracket has minimum slip fit relative to the guide channel bracket. Adjust the bracket to the original position, as marked in order to prepare for the window adjustment. Connect the electrical connector. Lower the regulator. Install the window. Refer to Window Replacement - Door . Adjust the door, as needed, in order to fit the body. Refer to Hinge Replacement - Door . Adjust the door glass. Refer to Window Adjustment - Door or Window Adjustment - Rear Door . Install the inner belt strip. Install the water deflector. Refer to Water Deflector Replacement - Door . Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. Install the door trim hanger bracket. Ensure the 3 upper tabs of the trim bracket are engaged into the slots of the door panel prior to securing the fasteners. Install the door trim hanger bracket fasteners. Tighten Tighten the front fastener to 10 N·m (89 lb in). Tighten Tighten the rearward fastener to 3 N·m (27 lb in). Install the trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Front Door or Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Door .
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Post by RapMastaC1 on Dec 2, 2006 10:11:31 GMT -6
WOW, thank you thank you!
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Post by DrJJH on Feb 10, 2007 19:53:12 GMT -6
Just a heads up to those driving a Classic. My 97 experienced a left, rear power window failure. After some basic gumshoeing and wiring testing my best guess left me looking at a new window motor. Ordered the part pretty cheap, thought I'd save myself on the labor and put it in myself. Turns out there is a reason the dealerships want so much to replace it. WOW. I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, and this process was above my talent or level of adventure. Drilling out of rivits, removing entire sill plates, etc etc. The engineer that designed the inner door workings in these things should be shot.
I write for 2 reasons.
1.) If you absolutly need to replace the motor, consider driving without the windows down, or bite the bullet and pay someone. This seems to be a project above the average weekend warrior's tools and abilities. (if you do pull it off, you're a better man than I).
2.) After pulling the door panel off and finding myself up that creek with no paddle, I resorted to some desperation wire checking. Turns out I saved myself a WHOLE bunch of work and money. The wiring harness at the window switch in the door was the culprit. A few of the spades had worn down the female adaptor sides, and there wasn't enough contact. (hard to explain). The wiring on the back side of the female plug had also wiggled loose. After some creative wiring and patches, everything works fine. ;D
To end this novel, window motors are a >:(BI&%H >:(to replace. Avoid at all costs. Double check the wiring and the harness to save yourself the nightmare and cash.
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Post by seeker20060001 on Mar 23, 2007 2:13:54 GMT -6
Thanks guys! This was EXACTLY what I was looking for (short of a GM warranty replacement, that is)!
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Post by martindaman on Dec 24, 2007 23:00:10 GMT -6
lol slammin the door does seem to work and man i knew i wasnt seeing things thanks aurorabrain for the posts, i have the part and with this i can now tackle this problem
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Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
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Post by Randy T. on Jan 24, 2009 12:04:16 GMT -6
Despite it's title, this thread is very misleading!! It confused me and I had some major problems because of it. First off, it starts off as a thread about 2Gs. Then there is regulator writeup of the Riveria, and the Classic writeup of regulator removal. These are good writeups for regulator replacement, but on Classics you don't have to pull the regulator to pull the motor. !You do not have to pull the regulator to change the window motor on a Classic!I learned the hard way. So did DrJJH he probably still don't know he did it the wrong way. Kay needed window motors and I pulled 2 of them by removing the regulators. Then I figured out the motors just pop off after you remove the bolts.
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Post by verocithrax on Mar 11, 2009 10:41:29 GMT -6
I'm looking for a diagram to install a window motor on my 98 olds aurora. Unfortunately, I failed inspection since it was the driver side window that wasn't working, but I fixed the wires in the door jam and that wasn't the culprit, so now I have the motor on hand, but reading the directions it came with, I'm not sure if it's an arm regulator or a cable regulator, and either way, I'm not sure what I have to do to remove/replace the motor. Can anyone help me, especially with a diagram? Thanks in advance!
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Post by eric99ta on Apr 24, 2009 8:36:59 GMT -6
Hey guys, I thought I'd post this here, because there seems to be no step by step definite guide to doing this on an 01-03 Aurora. Note: zip file contains all necessary documents to remove door panels and install new window regulator. Also note: this is for the rear doors. www.mediafire.com/?yuzejzz2w2k
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Post by ddawson on May 17, 2009 17:21:09 GMT -6
Randy, maybe u know, one very cold day this winter, i accidently hit the drivers window button, with my big winter gloves on, heard a pop from the switch area, and since then, now windows will operate at all, just replaced the drvs side main window switch, nothing, no difference, it has power to it on blue wire, motor shows receiving pwer, but refuses to work, any ideas? very frustrating, way too many hrs spent on it already. So i wood really appreciate your help or advice, just love the car, but.. u can reply to this or email me at david.dawson@cgi.com many thanks in advance.
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