Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 26, 2009 22:35:52 GMT -6
I am working on dropping the filter out of the engine compartment. I had thought of this and then I saw it done on a Mark 8. My Autobahn is running with bad heads and has been wrecked. So it was my natural choice to chop up. It still runs good, you just can't drive it hard for long periods.  I am trying to get it ready in time to take it to the dragstrip. My main problem with it is a gushing power steering hose.  I had to move the horn and a fender bracket to fit the filter in. If you do this mod you will still be able to install your factory box if needed. I would not do this on a daily driver either. Encountering water would not be good. I am just posting pictures of my work so far. I will post a writeup when I am finished if anyone is interested. I will admit this might not be better then the factory setup. It seems visually that both the filters have close to the same surface area. But, it is fun to try it out. I am also going to try to direct cool air up to the filter. Area under the air filter box.       My next step is to attach 2 factory intake hoses together to route to the filter. I just set the ones below in to see if it will work. I have not cut and attached them together yet.  |
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Post by lanceslambos on Aug 27, 2009 0:28:34 GMT -6
lol ok your design will cost less as it will take less tubing. trying to steal my thunder eh? JK! Spectre assured me that the end of the filter would have to be completely submerged underwater to cause hydro lock. so unless you drive down the end of airport road there after heavy rains like i did you should be ok  get it done up nice so we can test our designs at the track woot woo exciting! |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 27, 2009 8:55:02 GMT -6
Cool! Thanks! No deep water for me. |
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Post by Marc on Aug 27, 2009 11:00:47 GMT -6
Where'd you get that filter?
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Post by lanceslambos on Aug 27, 2009 12:29:03 GMT -6
hey randy they make a cap or plug and a way to attach a hose to the end of the cone also. looks like your using the 900cfm big one. i mention the cap and hose attachment b/c that cone isn't fitting all the way down in that hole. then if you actually cut down the original elbow you'll have room to fit it on the filter w/o getting into the radiator support.
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Post by sall on Aug 27, 2009 17:32:39 GMT -6
You think there is any way to fabricate a shield for the cone filter? Sort of like the stock tube that was there, that would not inhibit the air flow. This way water would not be an issue.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 27, 2009 20:02:10 GMT -6
Where'd you get that filter? Auto Zone $40. I got it for $20 because of my punch card. hey randy they make a cap or plug and a way to attach a hose to the end of the cone also. looks like your using the 900cfm big one. i mention the cap and hose attachment b/c that cone isn't fitting all the way down in that hole. then if you actually cut down the original elbow you'll have room to fit it on the filter w/o getting into the radiator support. I will have to check that out. I have the inner fender slightly cracked on the front to direct cold air in. I thought it fit in perfect. I wanted the chrome piece to not go through the hole. I cut it so just the filter would drop through. You think there is any way to fabricate a shield for the cone filter? Sort of like the stock tube that was there, that would not inhibit the air flow. This way water would not be an issue. It is pretty much shielded with the bumper and inner fender. I am sure something could be made to box it in if needed. Since I don't drive this one too often it is not a present concern. I definitely would not want to drive it in the rain without some kind of shield. The good thing about it is I could have the stock system back on in 10 minutes. |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 27, 2009 20:59:42 GMT -6
I have a video ready to go but I cannot upload it yet. If anyone has satellite internet you know what I mean.  There is a fair access policy that limits the amount of uploads/downloads. If you exceed it, your internet gets way slower than it already is. There is no limit between 1-6am. I was able to make the intake hose by cutting apart one factory intake. I also used the black sleeve that is inside the intake tube. It is put together, but it could still be improved. I refuse to use anything smaller than factory. Here is one of those chrome ebay tubes fitting loosely inside of a factory one.  I am very happy with the setup so far. The best part is the sound. You can really hear the air intake when you floor it under a load. It even has a slight thumping to it. I would compare it to changing your mufflers with straight pipes. Not that loud, but just the difference in the sound. If you know what I mean. I still have to remount the horn and bend a fender bracket to put it bacon.   |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 28, 2009 7:50:14 GMT -6
Short video.
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Post by sall on Aug 28, 2009 15:27:44 GMT -6
I had an idea. Is the stock tube small enough to fit through the factory tube hole? If so instead of the cone filter resting on a lip, you could make a bracket for it underneath. So, no cutting a hole to fit the cone.
BTW I thought it sounded nice.
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Post by lanceslambos on Aug 29, 2009 18:06:40 GMT -6
now you can add front fender vents so it gets even colder air. lol fast and furious. jk
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 29, 2009 18:15:55 GMT -6
now you can add front fender vents so it gets even colder air. lol fast and furious. jk I don't want to copy you! I had an idea. Is the stock tube small enough to fit through the factory tube hole? If so instead of the cone filter resting on a lip, you could make a bracket for it underneath. So, no cutting a hole to fit the cone. BTW I thought it sounded nice. Thanks Sall! I don't think the factory tube would fit through there without cutting. |
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Dec 22, 2009 4:49:00 GMT -6
I can confirm that. It won't fit through the square hole unless you modify it a bit. My idea was similar to Sall's though. I mounted a smaller inverted filter underneath the hole. I cut a little bit away to fit the end through so that I could mount a pipe to it, Mine doesn't rest on the lip like Randy's does.
I used a smaller filter on mine. I'm not sure there's space under there for a bigger one unless you relocate the fender bracket which is something that I didn't want to do. I was able to fit a smaller filter in there by bending the horn bracket back a bit and putting the horn on the other side of the bracket. I'm going to get a bigger filter and test my theory; maybe if it isn't mounted flush like Randy's you could fit it in at an angle without modifying anything too much.
Mine is routed the same but isn't 100% complete. I need to secure the filter to the frame (I plan on using safety wire and just drilling a couple holes), I need to get a factory-size lower tube (I'm using a narrower eBay tube right now) and I need to find a permanent place for the temp sensor. I drilled a hole and put it in the resonator for now, I didn't have anything to plug the resonator hole when I did it so I just put the resonator back on in the mean time. I'll snap a couple pictures of my current setup tomorrow.
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Post by lanceslambos on Dec 22, 2009 19:50:11 GMT -6
i want to do this as well. i need another oem intake hose and just waiting on Randy to respond. remember his blade broke when cutting your hole out so i'm gonna either buy him a blade or two or just buy an air saw. i can't wait to see the pics collins. hurry up and post 'em |
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Dec 23, 2009 1:43:22 GMT -6
Sorry I got tied up today... I'm getting it buttoned down tomorrow hopefully and I'll take some pictures then. I need to get rid of that eBay tube before I take pictures! ;D
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Post by lanceslambos on Dec 23, 2009 3:39:10 GMT -6
i'm doing this tommow too
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Dec 23, 2009 8:51:29 GMT -6
Lance the saw I used is an air body saw from harbor freight, they are 10-15 dollars, mine broke on xjs Aurora.
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Post by lanceslambos on Dec 24, 2009 0:35:40 GMT -6
well after looking it over and only having one oem intake tube; i decided to just go back to my original set up or the WAI as its called, however its getting cold air as long as the car is moving since its right over that square hole on the bottom and flush beside the square hole on the side/ in the fender. i couldn't see how it could be done without removing the fascia/ fender support bar and mine already sags on that side due to a broken clip which is part of the actual bumper so it can't be replaced without replacing the whole bumper. i took it for a spin and actually noticed that it will shift at 6200 vs 6000 like before and that was in drive not leaving it in 1st or 2nd. funny, i guess that extra bends and length of piping was shafting me 200 rpm! no pics because its nothing new. remember i cut an inch out of the lip under the drivers side headlamp to allow for the hose to fit and from the cars design, now it takes additional air under the light which goes around inside the fender/ out that side hole. so it wasn't in vain IMO.
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Dec 28, 2009 12:15:59 GMT -6
Here are my pictures! Keep in mind its still a work in progress. I still need to remove the resonator, get a bigger lower tube, and find a permenant home for the temp sensor.  I know it's duct taped. Kinda sketchy I know haha  I still have to clean this up as well, I'm waiting until it gets warmer.  The lower tube is duct taped to plug a hole that I had drilled for the temp sensor back when I was using the warm air intake. The sharpie is from where the original hole was going to be when I was doing Randy's setup.  With the resonator removed. Assume that the hole is plugged and you'll have my finished setup.   Since I used a smaller filter than Randy's I was able to fit it in without cuttting out the fender support bracket. I think this due in part to the filter being at an angle and not straight down, but I'm not sure. I'd like to try a bigger filter eventually but this is fine for now. I didn't remove the horn either. It just sits on that bracket, there is a little "hoster" if you will built into the horn. I just bent the bracket back a bit and flipped the horn around to the other side and now it's completely out of the way. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2009 14:26:59 GMT -6
wow you did a HORRIBLE job of cutting that metal. And your paint looks scratched in the last picture, and duct tape? HONESTLY? your engine bay is super dirty and you just don't deserve to call jeffrey your own. ;D
hehe haha J/K mr. XJS
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Post by robaurora01 on Dec 28, 2009 19:29:07 GMT -6
you need metal tubing to show it off properly ( polished aluminum ) only bad side is its going to give you terrible fuel mileage in the winter
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Post by lanceslambos on Dec 28, 2009 22:34:14 GMT -6
you need metal tubing to show it off properly ( polished aluminum ) only bad side is its going to give you terrible fuel mileage in the winter why would it? winter gas gives horrible mileage anyway. notice any difference Collins? how bout on the DIC, any changes in avg mpg there? |
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Dec 29, 2009 0:39:32 GMT -6
I haven't driven on it enough to tell, I'm still on the same tank of gas even. I'll keep my eye on it but I doubt it will change much. It feels like it pulls a little harder but you'd have to be familiar with the car to be able to tell the difference. I need a bigger filter like Randy's to test it out properly.
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Post by robaurora01 on Dec 29, 2009 12:49:30 GMT -6
it would give terrible fuel mileage, due to it will run it too cool in the winter and mess with the sensors because your getting extreme cold air but in the summer its a different story because you want to run cold air and not run your engine so hot.
it mostly has to go with the computer of the car which is what would make it terrible on fuel in the winter
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Post by hiphophead on Dec 30, 2009 13:32:28 GMT -6
i couldn't see how it could be done without removing the fascia/ fender support bar and mine already sags on that side due to a broken clip which is part of the actual bumper so it can't be replaced without replacing the whole bumper. IMO. Hey Lance, that is fixable if it is a plastic clip. You do not need a new bumper it is more than likely repairable. The bumper is TEO or formerly TPO. Which basically all you need to know when purchasing a plastic rod to weld with. Not all plastics bond to each together. Anyway, here is a good resource which tells you the process and materials needed and how to identify plastics. Plenty of videos as well and index of makes/models and types of plastic used on the bumpers. You can get a cheap plastic welder at Harbor Freight. |
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Post by sall on Mar 12, 2012 10:28:50 GMT -6
hey randy they make a cap or plug and a way to attach a hose to the end of the cone also. looks like your using the 900cfm big one. Where is that CFM rating from on the filter? |
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Post by lanceslambos on Mar 12, 2012 12:14:17 GMT -6
it's on a graph printed on the packaging.
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Post by sall on Mar 12, 2012 17:43:15 GMT -6
Hmm... spectre OEM size panel filter is 1190 cfm. There was no 'max' listed for P5 filter.
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Post by shelbyracing on Mar 12, 2012 18:31:50 GMT -6
It would get less in winter because cooler air is denser therefore it has more oxygen. More oxygen require more fuel for the ratio to stay consistent, the computer will compensate as necessary and double check itself with the O2 sensors, but it won't hurt anything. If you intentionally swapped it to suck in air from the radiator on a long trip you would increase the fuel mileage |
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Post by sall on Mar 9, 2014 19:21:43 GMT -6
Lance the saw I used is an air body saw from harbor freight, they are 10-15 dollars, mine broke on xjs Aurora. air or electric? |
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get it done up nice so we can test our designs at the track woot woo exciting! 
There is a fair access policy that limits the amount of uploads/downloads. If you exceed it, your internet gets way slower than it already is. There is no limit between 1-6am.
