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Post by SupaStealth on Oct 26, 2004 12:21:09 GMT -6
They should be gapped from the factory, however i check mine anyway, and remember, they are kinda sensitive, so you have to be careful when inserting them into the spark plug hole not to hit anything on the way down.
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Post by Rocketv8 on Oct 26, 2004 14:54:40 GMT -6
 when you get around to changing the wires be careful... i had a local mechanic do mine (by the way dont skimp on wires...go for the better ones) and they routed the wires wrong and after about 3000 miles, i developed an "arcing" in 2 wires from rub through...they have to be routed a certain way so as not to rub against the coils... this arcing actually burned out one of my coils as well, but after replacing 2 plugs, 2 wires and 1 coil, we're good as new... i had to het an olds dealer to do the job correctly, though.
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 27, 2004 12:27:10 GMT -6
OK, now im getting fed up with this $hit!!!!!
One I have the socket for the screws on the side of the coil pack assembly, but my rachet doesnt fit on the socket, only have the screwdriver typ that fits into that socket....then I guess there are 2 more screws in the back of the coil assembly.....how in the hell do you get to those...theres no room at ALL!!!
This is starting to make me hate my aurora
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 27, 2004 12:42:15 GMT -6
OK heres another thing I just noticed...the silver valve cover where the wires plug into, on the front 4 say 2-4-6-8...well I just got the 8 wire, and followed it to the coil to change it, and it is plugged into the 1 coil, and all other wires coming from the cylinders are not going to the right coils.....each coil has 2 white numbers on top, one for each wire...is that number suppose to be the same as the cylinder?
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 27, 2004 12:54:38 GMT -6
Ok disregard about the wires going to the wrong coil...that was a mistake.
But I still dont know how is one suppose to get to the 2 back screws of the coil assembly..it is completely impossible.
Anyone know how, anyone ever actually been able to reach or even seen those screws?
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 27, 2004 16:56:52 GMT -6
Well, its all done...took the test drive....and.....well....
Trembles alot less, but trembles during initial acceleration, like out of a stopped position during the 1st 0-about 15mph...and now when you go from 0-30 or 45 by increasing speed gradually it revs way to high, I went from 0-50 and it went to about 4000+RPM.
Also gas during this time period didnt last me $hit, I got about 330miles, normally i'd get about 360-390.
So now $100 later and 3hrs of work, I will end up having to take it in for a $73 diagnose, to probably have a dealer pick my pockets.
But all your help was great.
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Post by JimW on Oct 27, 2004 18:16:25 GMT -6
Its one of those cars, I have mentioned before its not really a car for a driveway mechanic unless you have lots and lots of resources, know-how and beer..heh All is forgiven once the car is up to speed and fixed properly...you'll see. Good luck padwan...yer doin good so far Now I get to change my coil packs...lol! |
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Post by SupaStealth on Oct 28, 2004 9:56:23 GMT -6
like i said before, make sure that they know that you already replaced the plugs and wires so they know, otherwise they might replace them again  |
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 28, 2004 10:52:32 GMT -6
Yeah, its actually the same as b4, samy symptoms, no change...  I do have a question tho...I noticed that on 2 coil packs, on one of the posts where the wire plugs onto, it was rusted brown, 1 post on each of 2 coils, all other coils had nice silvery posts. Would a rusted post have any influence? Im sure the coils was already in that condition when I got the car last month, and it drove just fine...the coils are only $21/ea., but Im feel hesitant to change anything further...Im in the middle of wondering how much to trust a dealership and their diagnose, Im not in a position to be robbed...or I was thinking of trying the coils in anycase if it isnt the coils i'll return them...any thoughts? |
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 28, 2004 10:56:36 GMT -6
Oh, and by the way...is brand an issue on the coils too?
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Post by JimW on Oct 28, 2004 10:59:35 GMT -6
OEM is recommended, typically from what I have read any aftermarket hardware related to sparking/electrics has not been 100% successful.
AC Delco all the way for wires, coil packs etc if you can.
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scottydl
Super Moderator 
There's nothin' like an American V-8...
Posts: 7,373
Staff Member
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Post by scottydl on Oct 28, 2004 13:18:35 GMT -6
Would a rusted post have any influence? Im sure the coils was already in that condition when I got the car last month, and it drove just fine...the coils are only $21/ea., but Im feel hesitant to change anything further... I don't know whether a rusted post will fix your specific problem, but it should certainly be replaced... especially for $21. That way you at least don't have to pay the dealer $100 later for the same repair.  |
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Post by erw38 on Oct 28, 2004 15:07:32 GMT -6
Rust=increased resistance=bad therefore rust=bad I would say to go ahead and replace the coils (at least that particular one) and call it a day ;D But what do I know? I fret over the smallest things. Like a tranny fluid change!  |
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Post by kobalt on Oct 28, 2004 16:36:35 GMT -6
1badaurora - To save some $ get the car diagnosed at a shop that agrees to put the diagnosis cost towards the potential repair.
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 31, 2004 12:10:24 GMT -6
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Post by JimW on Oct 31, 2004 15:21:53 GMT -6
Wow..thats the one you want 1995 OLDSMOBILE AURORA V8 L47 4.0L 244cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = C |
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Post by erw38 on Oct 31, 2004 18:59:25 GMT -6
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Oct 31, 2004 21:58:17 GMT -6
Jim, was your comment good or bad....did you mean that "I should" get it?
erw38: so would that brand/item be good, or perform just as the factory installed...is it the same brand...im confused?
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Post by erw38 on Oct 31, 2004 23:37:50 GMT -6
I believe it is as good as OEM (it is OEM). It is what they put on when the car rooles down the assymbly line, so I believe you should be fine if you go with it. If its good enough for GM then it should be good enough for you. The difference with AC Delco is that I believe they are more of a "retail" operation (buy the part of the shelf) as opposed to Delphi witch sells to big corporations and is to good for the little guy.
So, I would say to go ahead (if that is what you want) and bid like you've never bid before.
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Post by JimW on Nov 1, 2004 7:54:02 GMT -6
I was being serious, bid on the hardware, you'll find I'm not generally a sarcastic person.
Bid bid!
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1badaurora
Aurora Watcher
Do you hear that Mister Anderson? That, is the sound of inevitability.
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Post by 1badaurora on Nov 4, 2004 11:36:09 GMT -6
UPDATE: I am happy to announce that my"trembling" issue has been fixed... ;D  My friend who is the head mechanic at a Dodge/Chrysler dealer dropped by the other evening, he confirmed it to be a misfire, my wife took it in yesterday, he reports 6 other mechanics "flocked" to the car to try and assist a "pretty grl", maybe I should send her to the shop more often, instead of me, no one flocks over when I go...well I would hope not at least...anyways: he tested the spark from the coils and the 8/3 coil wasn't firing, now this is the funny part: he had one laying around from a guy who had replaced his because of a rusted post on the coil, replaced my shot coil with the one a customer left, and what do you know...I am back kickin RICE A$$ The reason I find funny the issue about him putting a temporary coil on there that I have to return, is that after spending $50 in plugs, $65 in wires, and $15 in tools to change the wires/plugs, then $45 in 2 new coils because 2 of mine had rusted posts....the one he had laying around fixed my problem. Now im going to replace the one he put on with one of my old ones, if the old one performs just as well, I am going to return the ones I bought, after I dust them off, the same with the wires...I am going to rverse everything but the plugs of course, and if it performs just as it did b4 my issue, then its all going back to the store....Im not cheap, I just have other needs to spend $110+. But ALL your kind help was VERY much appreciated, I am truly thankful such a community exists. TX, J |
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scottydl
Super Moderator
There's nothin' like an American V-8...
Posts: 7,373
Staff Member
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Post by scottydl on Nov 4, 2004 12:42:14 GMT -6
Now THERE's the happy ending we all look forward to, in our varying Aurora troubles. ;D
Even if you don't need the new wires and coils RIGHT now, it can't hurt to replace them... you might want to consider leaving the new stuff on, so you don't have to buy it back later at a higher price.
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Post by erw38 on Nov 4, 2004 22:39:11 GMT -6
Congrats on the fix.
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when you get around to changing the wires be careful... i had a local mechanic do mine (by the way dont skimp on wires...go for the better ones) and they routed the wires wrong and after about 3000 miles, i developed an "arcing" in 2 wires from rub through...they have to be routed a certain way so as not to rub against the coils... this arcing actually burned out one of my coils as well, but after replacing 2 plugs, 2 wires and 1 coil, we're good as new... i had to het an olds dealer to do the job correctly, though.
