Randy T.
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☯ AURORA GXP ☯
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Post by Randy T. on Sept 10, 2011 12:45:10 GMT -6
This is for ignition switch removal, but also shows partially how to r&r the ignition lock. Below is the thread that has a list of the problems I experienced with a bad ignition switch. aurorah.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Audio&action=display&thread=22469The 4mm is for the ignition switch bolts, they are actually smaller, like a 3mm or 2mm, but once you loosen them with vice grips, the 4mm socket will turn it. These are the bolts you will be removing in order from left to right. Removing this 2 part plastic piece is a little tricky. I just pulled them away from each other and they popped apart. I have had them break before, too. So if the temp outside is very cold you may have a harder time. If you are removing your ignition lock this is the button you will push with the key in the on position, then your ignition will come out. Of course you will also need to pull your wire which I do not show, but this gives you an idea of the r&r. This is your ignition switch. This is the electrical plug that the switch is connected with, remove the bolt and carefully rip it out. Random pic of flashers and junk. This shows the hookups for the aftermarket sunroof, you will not need to remove these unless your Aurora has an aftermarket sunroof like this one does. Make a note of which side each of the colors are on, or refer back to this picture using the electrical spades for direction. They pop off very easily. These are some pics of the body control module, on the left side, and the light control module, on the right.
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Post by rashad81 on Nov 1, 2012 11:50:46 GMT -6
Hey randy, what was your car doing before you replaced the switch ?
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Randy T.
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☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
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Post by Randy T. on Nov 1, 2012 18:14:11 GMT -6
The thread with all my issues and solution is linked at the top of this thread, it's right after the first 2 sentences. If you have any more questions about it, let me know.
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bobsblue95
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Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
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Post by bobsblue95 on Nov 1, 2012 20:10:35 GMT -6
Since it seems appropriate here, this is the relevant "how to test the ignition switch" paragraph from those 5 pages... (edited for clarity) If you have 12 volts at IGN1 and IGN3 (under the back seat) but no power at some other fuses (key in Run) test the following: -Voltmeter test (ignition switch connector plugged in) Check for 12v on red wire at D2 - if no voltage, stop testing now. Trace/repair the wire from D2 to rear fuse block. When voltage is restored to pin D2, proceed with switch testing... With key in Run, check for 12v on Pink (x2), Orange and Brown wires (see photo below) With key in Start, pin D1 (heavy yellow wire) should have 12v If any of those don't have voltage, you have a bad switch or broken wire between switch and connector. -Ohmmeter test (ignition switch connector UNplugged, key in Run) test for continuity from D2 to C6 and D6 test for continuity from D5 to C1 and C5 Again, if continuity is missing at any pin, bad switch or broken wire.
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