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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 27, 2012 10:59:06 GMT -6
Okay, so my fuel tank lock ring is rusted out. My friend, a full time mechanic, recommended a new fuel tank . Way too much money to replace something that isn't broke. I am making a steel ring to fit around the top of the fuel tank with another split ring below. I will have the bottom tapped to bolt the top and firmly secure the pump. There will be four small bolts to hold the bottom in place so you can remove the top without dropping the bottom. I will take pics of my progress and parts, I might start making them and sell stainless versions after I make a design I am happy with from mild steel. I might make and sell this when I am done, don't know how much I should charge. But buying a new tank is bull and them lock rings are absolute garbage.
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 27, 2012 11:12:22 GMT -6
Actually think I'll have studs coming up from the bottom, as that will seal better.
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Jan 27, 2012 11:22:27 GMT -6
What is exactly rusted out? Just the ring? You can replace that. Or the tabs that hold the ring.
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Post by sall on Jan 27, 2012 11:42:58 GMT -6
How rusted out is it? Mine was pretty bad but have seen worse in the yard. I replaced my pump about 2 years ago. When I removed the carpet and access cover it was really rusty. In this picture below was before I messed with it a lot but took a screwdriver and etched between the ring and the tabs. After I cleaned it up really well and sprayed penetrating oil several times a day for about 3 days and tapped lightly with hammer to let it soak in. It popped right after this and new one went back on with ease. Make sure you use a brass punch while you are in there trying to get it out, don't need sparks!
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Jan 27, 2012 12:06:09 GMT -6
They should have found a way to insulate that space from the weather, wouldn't have to worry about it then.
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 27, 2012 14:22:46 GMT -6
My tabs were completely ruined.
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 27, 2012 14:28:33 GMT -6
My holes landed right on the old ring, I need to replace those screws with new ones and pre drill the holes. For now I figured I'd give screws a test run. Used 8 and it feels very solid ;D I painted the fabricated ring with automotive under coating. I am desperately trying to upload an image from my phone, it just won't let me. I have an Android phone? 8 MP is probably too big. *Okay got them on my laptop. I know it isn't perfect I was in a hurry, but it was all done with My oxy-propane torch and a grinder.
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 27, 2012 15:36:05 GMT -6
Cutting I did use Stainless screws, but I should have pre-drilled Oops LoL
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Post by ice1ce on Jan 29, 2012 15:18:06 GMT -6
I just finished doing the same project on my 97. While hunting up material to do the job I ran across an aluminum disk from a crapped out bench sander. I works perfectly for the job. 5" outside diameter and I cut a 31/2" dia. hole in the middle. I used the flats on the underside where the pins push it out of the casting machine for my hole locations. Looks good and does seem to hold it tight. Attachments:
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Post by ice1ce on Jan 29, 2012 15:23:17 GMT -6
BTW this is what I started out with. For you Southern Gentlemen who don't have the rust problems we have here in Canada, Attachments:
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 29, 2012 16:23:15 GMT -6
Awesome man, I just grabbed a piece of steel I had handy. They should have used stainless steel. I wish I had a piece of aluminum like that handy though.
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Jan 29, 2012 21:53:12 GMT -6
Just be sure its making a good seal on the tank, if its not sealed too well you'll end up getting evap sytem leak trouble codes
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 29, 2012 23:29:46 GMT -6
I know, I used silicone just in case.
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Post by sall on Jan 30, 2012 9:01:31 GMT -6
As long as it is oil/gas resistant should be okay. There was someone else who sealed with silicoe some time ago ad ended up wit a blobs of gooey silicone everywhere. Gas will eat the silicone. Something like seal-all oil/gas ad permatex makes one too..
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 30, 2012 17:57:46 GMT -6
That's what I used Permatex. Gas/oil.
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Post by boldsmobile on Jan 31, 2012 11:28:20 GMT -6
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Post by shelbyracing on Jan 31, 2012 13:13:38 GMT -6
No, but same principal. I like Permatex pretty good stuff. I used a ring so I could get 8 screws. I think studs would be the best on a piece of stainless shaped in a "C". That way you can get it in the tank, pull the studs up, have 7 studs and use 2 to secure the C ring. Then the top would drop right on. Drill 2 large holes in the top ring so the nuts aren't in the way. Use stainless bolts, and stainless for the rings. That would be my ideal way to do it.
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Post by boldsmobile on Feb 1, 2012 6:32:20 GMT -6
The ring is an interesting idea.
My screws come up from the bottom. They are stainless with nice washers. What i did was glue them from the inside so they wouldnt fall in the tank during assembly. I let the glue dry for some time before i tried lower the new plate over the top of the screws. The Seal All i put over the top isnt necessarily pretty but i needed to make sure water never rested on there again.
I sold that car a while ago but the fix worked perfectly.
I often wondered how many Aurora's are sitting in junkyards with tabs that are gone.
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Post by shelbyracing on Feb 1, 2012 10:15:20 GMT -6
It's a real shame all they had to do is make their tabs out of Stainless.. Cheap *******
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Feb 1, 2012 21:58:47 GMT -6
I recommend going in and cleaning that area every couple years. There is another area behind the left rear tire, take the wheel off and pop the cover off over the gas hose. I pulled 5-10 pounds of dirt out of there, that is also how most of the dirt gets around the fuel ring, so clean it all at the same time. And above the rear springs is another collection spot, they fill up so much you can't even tell.
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Post by shelbyracing on Feb 1, 2012 23:56:21 GMT -6
Wow, n my driveway is dirt n gravel..
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Post by rejs1970 on Feb 9, 2012 21:17:20 GMT -6
I just fixed my sons 97 by putting a piece of 1/2" lexan in place of the original trunk cover with 3 screws positioned over the pump ring to hold it in place in the tank..working fine so far...
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Post by shelbyracing on Feb 14, 2012 22:17:16 GMT -6
I've used various Permatex gasket makers always with success. I have to say though, I tried several diff gasket makers n they all suck in direct contact with gasoline. I bought a thicker gasket from gm. Much better, it was blue n 1/4" thick round, same diameter.
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Post by oneye on Feb 15, 2012 6:17:38 GMT -6
What did you ask for, just a thicker fuel pump sealing ring gasket, or is it from another application?
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Post by shelbyracing on Feb 15, 2012 8:40:23 GMT -6
A different application, GM# 25027014 I asked to see all the fuel sender seals and measured them.
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Post by oneye on Feb 16, 2012 6:01:41 GMT -6
Excellent. Thanks.
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Post by shelbyracing on Jun 19, 2012 14:34:06 GMT -6
Okay major update and I have learned a lot first hand. Okay first of all I tried everything and nothing, I repeat nothing is gasoline resistan >:(t. I had to shop vac clean my tank . My ring bent from over tightening out of frustration. So now what do we do? I never give up. I have some SS sheeting 1/16" thick I cut to fit exactly over the egg shaped top of the tank to cover all old holes. I am ordering some 1/4" thick nitrile rupper. I will cut the rubber to the size of my Stainless sheet. The sheet will be bolted down with Stainless screws (very aggressive ones). It has a hole in the center for the pump. When I am a little less aggravated I will make a 1/8"-3/16" SS egg shaped plate to permanently bolt to the top of the tank with that awesome gasket under and that will have 4-6 bolts from the bottom exposing studs for a ring to tighten on to with FP underneath and reg FP gasket. All I will ever have to do to change it is tighten some SS wing nuts down and drink a beer. ;D ;D I am vary confident this is leak proof I like over-doing things so I never have to worry about anything I do failing. I really do not like messing with something more than twice. There are so many false advertising goop gimmics I've learned a hard lesson. If anyone else experiences this problem I will do a break down of how to make that once it is complete. An Aurora deserves a concrete permanent repair. ;D www.amazon.com/Nitrile-NBR-Rubber-Sheet-Length/dp/B006H53DJM/ref=sr_1_16?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1340137264&sr=1-16&keywords=1%2F4%22+nitrile+sheet
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Post by boldsmobile on Jun 19, 2012 20:44:30 GMT -6
Did you try the Seal All?
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Post by shelbyracing on Jun 19, 2012 22:34:19 GMT -6
Yeah, it isn't for long term contact with gasoline. I like to fill my tank up, and gas is higher in ethanol which is super corrosive.
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Post by boldsmobile on Jun 20, 2012 5:33:44 GMT -6
I used it on mine without issue but to be honest i dont know how long it actually would have lasted because i ended up selling the car. I could go back and look at my records but would have to guess it lasted for at least a year before i sold it.
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