Front/Rear Tranny Mounts INSTALLED!

[TJM]

I looked carefully to see if this was a DIY project; a little tough but it looks do-able. (I hope)

Dealer only parts, my local wanted just under $600 w/tax just for the parts with no "preferred customer" discounts available. YIKES!

They gave me the part #s and I Googled 'em.

I ended up at GMpartsDirect for $385 including shipping for both the front and rear mounts. Saved about $200.

1997 specific??
#22201113 for the front
#22201115 for the rear

Special order through GMpartsdirect so who knows how long...

Lotsa pics - don't worry - when the parts final get here.

[95mushroom]

Should be fun lol. Mine were replaced when the tranny was rebuilt. I need to do the motor mount soon though. Yea the wait time from GMparts will be interesting.

[parts68]

I have a new one for the engine Ill sell for $100 plus shipping.
I didnt need it as it was a tranny problem not a mount problem.
For the front and back I used a generic replacement mount which was $6.

[vojtazbrna]

TJM, why are you replacing them? Do you have any problems? How could you tell if they're bad?
Also, almost everything I order from gmpartsdirect(and I shop there a lot) is special order. They just don't want you to return it so they call it a special order. It usually comes within two weeks and that's not bad.

[TJM]

parts68 - The mount in the front can possibly be replaced with an aftermarket (modified) mount that I saw at Pep-Boys; probably the same one you used. But the rear mount on my 97 is a BEAST thats integrated with the bracket to the steering rack. I read your previous post regarding these mounts and decided that if I was to go through all the trouble then I would get the OEM parts.

vojtazbrna - My driveway is inclined and when I would pull in ad park, the car would lurch forward when I released the brake and the engine would twist WAY more than it should. After investigating the mounts, I discovered the the rubbers had completely pulled away from their steel encasements. If I rock the car while in park, the engine twists about 6"; that can't be good.

Additionally, the tranny just seems unresponsive to a degree and I can sometimes feel the engine twist while the tranny shifts.

[vojtazbrna]

thanks for a quick response

[stevensolds]

you can still keep driving on them though right? what if they just blow out completely?

[TJM]

still driving no problem

I guess eventually it would be metal to metal but having 2 bad ones puts extra stress on the remaining 2. The other 2 are hold everything up now so I guess at least one of those would ahve to go too for it to get to metal to metal.

[parts68]

the tranny mount is very expensive so dont ruin it.
It is hydraulic

[TJM]

sorry - gotta fire up the grill and cook steaks ;D - pics coming

fastest GM Parts Direct shipping ever...

[TJM]

OK - as promised - here are the steak pictures:



First grilling of the year - although we did smoke a 21# turkey on the grill for Thanksgiving (in the snow)

Oh yah - back to the mounts:
No engine support required during installation (for line-up only)

Here's the new stuff:

For 1997
Front Tranny Mount # 22201113 includes the cast bracket that mounts to the engine - you don't need it but I guess it will make a nice paperweight. Get a different part # to exclude the bracket.

Rear Tranny mount # 22201115 What you need is what you get.



The front tranny mount was so easy - took about 20 min. Just unbolt and lift up toward the cooling fan and take it out near the oil filter. No problems - all 15mm


A better view of the damage:


New front installed:


I left all the bolts loose until I got the rear installed and I did have to jack up the engine just a bit in the rear to get it lined up.


NOW - the rear:
Don't try to do the rear without:
a T-55 torx:


And a swivel ratchet like this for the top of the mount where the steering rack bolts to it (15mm 6 point socket):


Ramps will get the car higher than a jack and stands and you need working room. A lift would make the rear mount much easier to deal with but ramps and a creeper can do the job.

Once you get it all unbolted (7 bolts total for this ONE mount), simply push up on the steering rack with a pry bar for added clearance; pull the right side of the mount toward the rear and it practically falls out (OK it did fall out and landed on my chest)

15mm for the rack bolts
T-55 torx for mount through frame bottom w/18mm for top nut
18mm for rear of mount into frame
15mm for the through bolt with 18mm for the nut
10mm for the power steering lines clamp

This is the rear mount looking through the driver's side wheel well; not a lot of room but even with big hands it can be done:


A better look at the rear mount damage:


Leave all the bolts loose until you get the through bolt in; that was kinda tough and required that I jack the engine a bit again in the rear and tapped the bolt to get in all the way in.


Overall, not a bad job, very dirty if your oil cooler lines leak like mine

The front took about 20 min if that.

The rear (if I didn't have to go and buy the T-55 Torx) took about 2 hours.

The difference is astounding:
*as the transmission goes into gear from park
*nice tight shifts
*tranny "anticipates" better - in traffic it tends to be in the right gear now - no more sluggish speed changes
*and most noticeable is the overall feel of the ride - reminds me of when I first test drove her.

$385us delivered to my door in less than 10 days

[scottydl]

Wow, I am certainly impressed! I added this write-up to the stickied 95-99 Maintenance thread up top.

[BuccaneersFan]

Yeah TJM, great write up. Now I'm thinking that if the mounts on your 97 are that bad then I better check mine, especially considering I've got a 96.


P.S. Thanks a lot, now I'm starving! ;D

[stevensolds]

WOW TJ thats sweet. I dont think i have enough in me to tackle something like this. Knowing me i'd do something stupid and the whole jack would fall down or something. How do you know if they are shot though? Is it easy to tell?

[testosterone1]

My whole engine jumps up and down as I go through each gear.I also get a slight jerk when ever I go into drive and reverse.Does this mean my mounts are needing replaced?

[TJM]

scottydl said:

Wow, I am certainly impressed! I added this write-up to the stickied 95-99 Maintenance thread up top.

thanks scotty - I can do a write-up on the steaks too.

Bucc - you might be right - mine have been bad for a few years but I can't say for sure if it's the time or the miles. BTW the steaks were awesome.

Steven - it really isn't too bad a job - it LOOKS worse than it really is; justa bunch of unbolting stuff, butcha gotta have ramps; jack stands are not high enough to give yourself room to work. Check out the pics of the old mounts while they were still installed and you can see the damaged mount(s) - the rear one is tougher to see but if you look carefully...

Testosterone - By what you describe it sounds like you may need this write-up. 'Not sure about the "jerking" into gear though; mine previously "slopped" into the next gear unless at WOT.

One added note - All the bolts came out and went back in easily except:
*The 2 bolts at the top of the rear mount that secure the steering rack; I had to crack one of them using a 6pnt deep socket on a universal (to clear the exhaust) with a 2' extension going up by the coils. They were also a little tough lining up during reassembly too.
*The through bolt in the rear was tough until decided to use the jack under the engine to line it up instead of a pry bar.

the personality of my car has changed significantly.

[Wacko]

Very nice job and write-up, TJM.

By the looks of those steaks,



I know where the New England Chapter of ACNA should meet. The one in the back looks about right for me.

[TJM]

LOL - that works for me! but if that's the case we should wait 'till I open the pool.

[stelte]

TJM,

Really excellent writeup. I'm probably going to end up doing this.

Question: I've heard that in either 97 or 98, they changed some of the mounts (not sure if the tranny or engine) to hydrolic mounts. I have a 95, so I'm wondering if mine are different. But none of your pictures looked like anything other than hard rubber.

Dave

[TJM]

from what i understand, part #s have changed for the Aurora almost every year. I don't know the visible differences between the 2 types but I know there were TSBs for the side mount by the driver's wheel and that one IS hydraulic.

I got the part #s from my local dealer and then ordered the #s through GMPartsDirect.

Maybe check you local dealer to see if the original for your car has been upgraded to a new part #.

[erw38]

testosterone1 said:

My whole engine jumps up and down as I go through each gear.I also get a slight jerk when ever I go into drive and reverse.Does this mean my mounts are needing replaced?

If you whole engine moves, guess that the mounts are completely shot and need replacing.

[BNICOV]

Great pics, now I'm hungry!! Mind you I cooked a nice 15lb Prime rib on the Barbie this weekend celebrating the birth of my second daughter with the whole clan.

[TJM]

bnicov2 said:

Great pics, now I'm hungry!! Mind you I cooked a nice 15lb Prime rib on the Barbie this weekend celebrating the birth of my second daughter with the whole clan.

now dats wud I'm talkin' - 'bout! 'gotta try that this year.

I did a pork loin that was great too but the smoked turkey was the best; family still raves about it.

[majoraurora]

I just completed this repair, however, the mounts' rubber legs were still connected but stretched and showing fatigue. I used a tried and true repair method of filling the gaps with hard rubber hoses to restore the original alignment and add some stiffness while not making the mounts totally solid. Based on my assessment of their new strength, they should last longer than the original mounts.

I could not completely remove the rear mount but was able to slide the insert free by the axle and conduct the repair.

Additionally I loosened the passenger side steering rack mount for added manuevering. I had to turn the wheel a little during the reinstall to reattach the steering rack.

I used jacks stands, but a hoist would make this so much easier.

The feel is much more connected and solid.

I still have a mild decelaration shudder in the steering wheel so it looks like cradle mounts and swing arm bushings are next.

[auroraguy96]

does anyone know what the thread type is on the bolts that secure the rack&pinion to the rear tranny mount cause mine have broken off and i nedd to get it fixed ASAP!!!!!!

[clevelandslim]

Hey everybody. I'm out here in Cleveland Browns' territory, and since my team sucks so bad and the weather is so good... I figured I might as well tackle this rear tranny mount!

The problem I am having is the mount in this how-to is different from mine.

2 bolts going into the back of the mount and into the cross-member, 18 mm, are removed.
55 torx bolts that run up through the cross-member, then through the mount and into nuts, are removed.

It looks like the steering rack is attached to the top of the mount, I don't see how I can possibly get to those.

Can someone please give me a revised how-to so I can tackle this job on a '95.

Speed Neon, where are you at playa!?

All the best,
~Slim~

[ice1ce]

Just thought I would put in my twenty-five cents worth. ( inflation ya know) I am replacing the rear Transmission mount on my '97. I found an insert that can be used instead of buying the whole bracket. I was priced $260.00 for the whole bracket and $85.00 for the insert. Needless to say I opted for the insert. The brackets are cast and will last as long as the car or longer. Thought I would toss that out for anyone that is about to do one

[turbokinetic]

Thank you for the great write-up and pictures!

I'm in the middle of this repair with my dad's 95 and one additional step was required. The swaybar had to be disconnected at both ends and moved back to allow the rear trans mount (the nasty one) to be removed from the car. Other than that it has been same.

Sincerely,
David

[randnon]

I just did this job on my 95 and wish I had read the entire list of comments. I stuggled for 30 min before I came to the same conclusion as David that the sway bare links had to be removed for clearance to get the rear mount out . The clunk I was getting at stops is now gone . Well worth the $18 at rock auto for the insert. The rest of the origional post was right on and having the tool List really helps. RICH

[sall]

Well.. I did some more digging via google about the 'front' trans mount insert and found useful information from a thread from 2010.

May 4, 2010 22:58:56 GMT -6 55624096 said:

Here is the skinny on the motor mounts. Driver side motor Mount GM #22174975 from GM Parts direct @ $111.86. Passenger Side Motor Mount GM #22146349 from GM Parts Direct @ $92.74 It will take 2 or 3 weeks to get delivery. The Trans mission mounts can be bought at Zone or at Rock auto. Front mount must be improvised to make it work but it is cheap, Anchor A2493 @ about $10.00 and the Rear mount can be fixed by buying Anchor replacement bushing # A3065 @ $50.00. I have used this combo in several cars and it works for $270.00 in parts plus some fitting.

This Anchor 2493 mount does indeed look very similar.



For a whopping $6.69 shipped I am going to give a shot! Anything is going to be better than what is in there.

These are the last remaining items(after alternator) until it's back to modding Going to be such a better ride then it is even now after suspension overhaul. I will keep you all updated.


EDIT:

I read somewhere else someone also used one for a 90's model Dodge spirit v6. Anchor 2615. Which do you think looks the closest?



I think the 2493 does... just editing to say the 2615 is too big and does not fit. I looked at it at oreiilys to compare.


I contact old member lynzoid and he says tack weld that Anchor 2493 mount in and use washers or steel tubing to extend mount hole and good to go. I'll take some pics when I do it. Insert won't arrive until Monday, but procedure shouldn't take to long.


EDIT #2:

Woke up to the front trans mount delivered on the front porch! No waiting til Monday. Off to the hardware store. Pleasant surprise.


EDIT #3:

Got the front mount out. Definitely schwasted. Had some other things come up and not much time work on it today. Will finish up tomorrow and post some pics. Can't actually supplement the write-up with new pictures other than a few about modifying the new insert because having the radiator out made it much easier. All I had to do was pull the main bolts that goes through mount and the one through the frame rail to pull it out.


New insert mounted in mount bracket:


Old Mount: Pulled away from metal casing, brittle and dry rotted.


I have to grind those two bottom tabs off or it will not fit flush on the frame rail. Tack weld the upper two tabs to the mount and a couple other small modifications. Other than it will bolt right in. Sure beats $192.