Basic Brake Bleeding Procedure

[TJM]

Bleeding can seem complicated if you have never done it and after an IM with ACNA member Day, it was suggested that the procedure be posted. So here we go.

The brake pedal should be moved slowly during bleeding so the fluid doesn't foam - 3 seconds down , 3 seconds up

Keep the master cylinder full during procedure - check often.

This is a 2 person job, one working the pedal and one working the bleeders one wheel at a time

Start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and typically only the lines that have been interrupted unless the problem is persistent.

1) Build pressure in the system by slowly pumping the brake pedal until it's firm and high.

2) Hold pressure on the pedal while slowly opening bleeder - push pedal to the floor to expel fluid and air and HOLD IT DOWN

3) Close bleeder valve

4) Repeat steps 1 - 3 over and over until no air is expelled from the lines.

5) Do the next wheel.

Tips -

Penetrating oil is a wonderful thing for old bleeders.

Try to use a 6 point box wrench on the bleeders so they don't get damaged or a 6 point socket to initially crack them.

NEVER release the pedal unless the bleeder is fully closed or air will be drawn into the system.

Keep master cylinder full

[A-boy95]

Good write up, but i can do that with my eyes closed thans to a rear brake pistion blowing up on my sunbird so i did the whole brake system.

again great wright up

[95mushroom]

Is it possible to completely flush the brake system through bleeding or is something else require?

[Wacko]

If you continue to bleed and refill the master cylinder with new fluid until what is bled goes from dirty to clean, this is essentially a flush. Only thing I'm not sure about is the ABS system. Is that a branch off of the circuit or is it in series?

[parts68]

Flushing a system with ABS is harder due to the ABS unit being inline with the system.
You can do a remove and fill flush rather easily.
Remove the cap from MC and suck out all the nasty stuff with a large syringe type pump
(you can get these at Discount Auto,just ask for the 2 cycle oil mix syringe).
Put a little fresh fluid in the MC to lossen up the crud and suck that out.
You can get creative to remove junk inside but dont let any loose crud stay in.
Fill with fresh fluid and do the rest just like a normal brake fluid change.
If you turn the key off and on a few times it will cycle the ABS pump.
Next is the fun part.
Find a dirt road thats not crowded slam on the brakes hard and do a few ABS cycles.
Dont go any faster than 20 MPH and make sure car isnt pulling to one side or other.
The ABS will chatter and try and do its job and at the same time be flushing itself
with fresh fluid.
After a few of these cycles go back and flush the system again.
If you have a Tech 2 scanner you can do all this without the dirt road panic stop thing.
I do a reverse flush last to make sure all the air is out,but it takes specialized equipment.
Keep safety in mind when doing any panic stop/tests.

[scottydl]

Good procedure to have written up; I'm going to make sure it's added to the 95-99 Maintenance sticky.

[yaygull]

Can you update the link that's in the sticky? It still brings up the link from the old version of the forum. I found this by doing an advanced Google search for the title of this thread.

[sall]

I never do pump the pedal method. I always use a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder. Pressure bleeder if I am feeling extra lazy.