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Post by sall on Dec 9, 2012 15:31:30 GMT -6
Had quite a large vacuum leak on the '96. Turns out it was the 'anti-backfire' valve on the end of intake. I was able to move the entire assembly about an eighth of an inch in either direction. I could do this on the car too but easier with the intake off. The o-ring was absolutely shot. It was dry dry rotted and crumbled in my hands. The new assembly was a little difficult to get in and is solid tight fit. Turn the assembly counter clockwise to remove. It seals at this position:  ... and is removed in this position:  Brittle O-ring:   (All pictures will re-size automatically shortly) You can get to the valve by removing the power steering pump, but I didn't go that route. Pulling the intake is easy enough. The first two injector on each bank need lifted as well. I didn't get any pictures of the new one, but it looks the same only... clean and well sealed. Not intended to be write-up but info here none-the-less for others. |
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator 
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Post by bobsblue95 on Dec 9, 2012 21:02:35 GMT -6
Good info! ISTR RockAuto sells those assemblies, right?
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Post by sall on Dec 10, 2012 6:55:34 GMT -6
Yes, rockauto carries the assembly. It was one of the only places I could find who carried them other than [online]dealer. The part number is:
ACDELCO Part # 03546341 and it is referred to GM as " VALVE,FUEL PRESS RLF COMPLETE". Not sure how it got that name... listed as EFI valve on rockauto.
A more 'common' problem here is the actual valve(springed door) not seating correctly. I know some people just seal them shut but not my cup of tea.
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Post by ntrenn on Dec 10, 2012 12:32:57 GMT -6
The 3.5 valve is still available at the dealer for about $35 too....for you 2g folks....not sure it isn't the same valve....
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Post by roara on May 12, 2013 14:59:07 GMT -6
Had quite a large vacuum leak on the '96. Turns out it was the 'anti-backfire' valve on the end of intake. I was able to move the entire assembly about an eighth of an inch in either direction. I could do this on the car too but easier with the intake off. The o-ring was absolutely shot. It was dry dry rotted and crumbled in my hands. The new assembly was a little difficult to get in and is solid tight fit. You can get to the valve by removing the power steering pump, but I didn't go that route. Pulling the intake is easy enough. The first two injector on each bank need lifted as well. I didn't get any pictures of the new one, but it looks the same only... clean and well sealed. Not intended to be write-up but info here none-the-less for others. Sall, how did you pull the intake as an assembly? I don't see (easily anyway) a plug for the injector wires. You cut the wires? |
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Post by sall on May 12, 2013 15:38:06 GMT -6
Sall, how did you pull the intake as an assembly? I don't see (easily anyway) a plug for the injector wires. You cut the wires? There is a plug much like trans one. Just follow the harness. Here is FSM procedure. It's pretty easily lifted off. Intake Manifold Replacement |
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Post by roara on May 12, 2013 15:54:23 GMT -6
Cool, thanks! I just haven't looked deep enough.
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Post by oldsAURORAmobile on May 12, 2013 17:18:39 GMT -6
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Post by sall on May 12, 2013 18:45:54 GMT -6
Yes removing the PS pump is pretty easy to do this too as I mentioned at the end of first post.. I however, changed both TB gaskets, intake carrier gaskets, throttle body coolant hose, cleaned throttle and replaced all 8 injectors at the time replacing o-ring and valve.
Just take off the belt, remove the pressure and return hoses.
Then one 13mm bolt holds the pump on.
It is between the rear valve cover and the pump. The bolt goes through the pump vertically.
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Post by oldsAURORAmobile on May 12, 2013 21:11:47 GMT -6
Thanks sall. I wanted to go that way so as not to have to unnecessarily replace good intake gaskets.
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Post by roara on May 25, 2013 11:27:23 GMT -6
Ok, I'm goin in! Wish me luck!  |
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dogora
Aurora Groupie
Posts: 150 
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Post by dogora on Aug 16, 2013 22:44:07 GMT -6
Is there a new O-ring included with the new valve?
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Post by sall on Aug 17, 2013 13:06:29 GMT -6
Is there a new O-ring included with the new valve? Yes.  |
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Post by mcgyverit on Nov 29, 2013 12:49:37 GMT -6
any trick to get the valve back into position, I got it about 90% there but it wont go any further and showing signs of stress on the plastic valve.
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Post by sall on Nov 29, 2013 13:40:24 GMT -6
You could lube the o-ring slightly to make it easier to clock in there.
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Post by mcgyverit on Nov 29, 2013 14:36:25 GMT -6
thanks i tried that and i also cleaned out the intake and put a little oil on it just hoping to make it slide easier, but it is where it is for now. I got the 90 deg port/boss to clear the pwr steering and called it good. we shall see. thanks to the OP for putting this up here as well
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Post by digdaddy on Aug 8, 2014 15:06:36 GMT -6
What's the part number? Where is it available? Tried looking at rockauto with no luck
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Post by sall on Aug 8, 2014 20:18:40 GMT -6
What's the part number? Where is it available? Tried looking at rockauto with no luck It's right there in the third post... Yes, rockauto carries the assembly. It was one of the only places I could find who carried them other than [online]dealer. The part number is: ACDELCO Part # 03546341 and it is referred to GM as " VALVE,FUEL PRESS RLF COMPLETE". Not sure how it got that name... listed as EFI valve on rockauto. A more 'common' problem here is the actual valve(springed door) not seating correctly. I know some people just seal them shut but not my cup of tea. Not sure if they still have it or not. |
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hoagy
Aurora Newbie
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Post by hoagy on Aug 10, 2014 10:39:24 GMT -6
I just had this problem on my 1998 I just sprayed it with throttle body cleaner while running it reseated been two weeks all good!
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Post by auroranewbie on Jan 29, 2015 7:45:01 GMT -6
Omg. Please help. I cant find this at any stores, ebay, rockauto, or even dealership. Any idea where i could buy a new one?? Im about to just try to glue it shut or junk the whole car, I love this car but sick of discontinued parts. Is there any way of fixing this properly, its stuck open and hard to start and runs like crap.
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
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Post by bobsblue95 on Jan 29, 2015 9:39:48 GMT -6
Mine has been siliconed shut since I got the car. No problems due to it.
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Post by sall on Jan 29, 2015 10:04:04 GMT -6
Yes, it's always an option. In the rare case of a backfire through intake I'd rather the intake not shatter. Maybe the silicone would give way before that happened!
In my case here it was the actual ring between the valve and the intake manifold. RTV could probably be used there too.
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RCA1186
Administrator 
Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on May 18, 2015 11:53:47 GMT -6
stickied
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Post by pictishusa on Sept 26, 2018 14:20:28 GMT -6
The oart is no longer available, i have the same whistle, i wonder if buying a whole new intake would have it as part of the intake?
For now i got thecwhistle gone by spraying parts cleaner in the valve!
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Post by sall on Sept 27, 2018 11:02:54 GMT -6
The oart is no longer available, i have the same whistle, i wonder if buying a whole new intake would have it as part of the intake? For now i got thecwhistle gone by spraying parts cleaner in the valve! I would assume it would come with one but ya know the first three leters of assume are... Honestly at this point in the game, I'd probably just use some black RTV. |
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