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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2013 16:45:44 GMT -6
Looks like I've got a wheel bearing going out... started the week of thanksgiving and I've been so busy that I basically just parked it and have been driving my truck until I could get to it.
It kinda sounds like a Cesna taking off as I get on the freeway. Don't really hear much under 25 MPH, but above it gets louder as I increase speed, and maintains the noise in association with the speed I go.
If I swerve quickly left and right, the noise will go away upon swerving right. Next step is to put it on stands and see if I can do the 12 to 6 rocking of the tire to help me figure out which side it is.
I looked on Rockauto.com for parts (where I always go) and it looks like you can replace just parts of it and/or the entire assembly.
What recommendations can anyone on here give me? Anything from which parts to buy / avoid, how hard is this to do myself (I have a mechanic buddy who would be willing to help ) and how much should I expect to spend?
Thanks in advance, always love this forum!
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Dec 9, 2013 17:34:21 GMT -6
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Post by renaldo0613 on Dec 9, 2013 20:30:13 GMT -6
I would replace ghe entire hub assembly in one swoop while your in there rather than replacing parts of it. Your looking at about a $100 when its all said and done roughly. Thats even,if you have to rent the axle socket to remove the cv axle. Pretty straight forward. Some guys use a puller to remove the hub assembly i use a special tool known as a BAH (big a** hammer) and it hasent failed me yet. Good luck.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 9, 2013 22:23:47 GMT -6
Makes sure u buy good hub like SKF.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 11:32:26 GMT -6
Awesome info! Thanks guys! For roughly $100 I'll def just buy the whole new assembly. WAY cheaper than my truck LOL. That was about $800 for the part alone!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 11:48:22 GMT -6
So looking on Rockauto, it appears there is a variety of parts under the search for "2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L, Hub Assembly." It ranges from $35 to $218. Which part do I need / would you recommend??
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Post by Kersh on Dec 10, 2013 14:15:00 GMT -6
If the sound goes away when swerving right, then it's most likely the right bearing.
When you load the bearing (swerve left) it will be loud. When you unload the bearing (swerve right) it will get quieter.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 10, 2013 14:15:26 GMT -6
Most say Timken is good once but i never used it I used ACdelco and SKF . I would recommend Acdelco and SKF
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2013 15:05:10 GMT -6
OK Thanks! Its crazy to me that there can be such a huge difference in price. I wonder how long the $35 parts would last? Considering I don't want to be doing this again in a few months I think I'll go with the $100 SKF
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 10, 2013 15:06:48 GMT -6
all others lasted me from 3 days to 4 month tops.
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Dec 10, 2013 15:38:55 GMT -6
I just put an SKF in mine a little bit ago. All I can say is that it has lasted a month so far with no issues haha. They are a good bearing, guys here at the shop were the ones that told me I should get an SKF bearing.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Dec 10, 2013 21:38:00 GMT -6
The original LF on my '01 was replaced in '06 with a Timken, no problems so far.
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Post by oldwino on Dec 10, 2013 23:43:04 GMT -6
Replaced mine with Timkens at around 75k miles, now approaching 120k. No issues.
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Post by renaldo0613 on Dec 11, 2013 6:03:05 GMT -6
Replaced 2 of my bearings 15,000 miles ago with raybestos. No problems what so ever.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Dec 12, 2013 7:03:49 GMT -6
I get my wheel bearings at the salvage yard, so many cars share our type of bearing that it does not take long to find bearings that had been recently swapped out before the car was parked.
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Post by mybaby on Dec 12, 2013 7:36:56 GMT -6
I replaced right wheel bearing back in '09 with Timken at 165k. No problems since, and I am at 204k. When the problem first occurred it was replaced with another brand. The noise was still present immediately after replacement. The Timken quickly resolved that issue. Timken is my suggestion.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2013 13:33:10 GMT -6
Great recommendations guys! I'll probably go for the Timken since its a bit cheaper than the SKF. Next question, is do I go for the 1st Design or the 2nd design? Its a difference of like $2 so that's not the issue, just making sure I get the appropriate part.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2013 9:57:02 GMT -6
Well my friend and I replaced both wheel bearings yesterday with Timkens. Only took us about an hour to do as they both came off pretty easily, we had air tools, and worked on each side pretty much separately until we needed to turn the wheel to access the bolts easier.
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone on here for their input, and the link to that walk through. Everything was very helpful, and I can now say I could easily do this again without hesitation. Plus I cannot tell you how nice it is to drive down the road and not have the sound of a Cesna coming from your car!!
The only negative from yesterdays adventure was to find I'm leaking a small amount of oil, from which it looks like its coming from the rear main seal. With the rig having a little over 140k miles on it I just don't know if I can warrant the expense of having the engine and tranny pulled apart to fix that. I'm gonna keep my eye on it for now and decide what to do.
Thanks again!
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 17, 2013 12:25:26 GMT -6
Nice:) if it doesnt leak lot of oil i wouldn't bother for now.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2013 13:14:23 GMT -6
Yeah until I start losing a lot of oil, I'm holding off. I had a similar issue with my old Jeep that I let run that way for years, would basically have to add about a quart of oil once every month or so, but it was WAY cheaper to go that route than get it fixed, especially for a rig with 250k miles on it, just wasn't worth it.
Hopefully the Aurora will continue to hold up as my DD with just minimal upkeep for a few more years. I've got about 140k on the clock, drive 50 miles round trip daily for work (all freeway) its paid for and I would love to pay off my truck before having a new car payment.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Dec 17, 2013 18:08:06 GMT -6
Paying shop labor stinks, glad you went the DIY route. ;D
As for your oil leak, are you using high mileage motor oil? It helped mine a bit, from 2 quarts to only 1 between 5,000 mile changes.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2013 11:00:18 GMT -6
I am not using high mileage motor oil, I'll give that a try though on my next oil change, which is coming up fairly soon. I think I still have like 28% oil life left or something like that. I am also planning to swap out the oil drain plug with a new one that has a built in seal as my old one is worn out. We'll see if those two small things help the oil leak slower.
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bb2
Aurora Watcher
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Post by bb2 on Jan 3, 2014 20:37:24 GMT -6
Take it from me go with Timkin and relace the whole hub
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bb2
Aurora Watcher
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Post by bb2 on Jan 3, 2014 20:44:40 GMT -6
Jack it up one side at a time, block the other 3 wheels ,have someone start it up ,put in drive accelerate to 40mph you well see which side it is believe me. Be careful to put your foot on brake and stop before shifting back to park
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Jan 19, 2014 20:50:21 GMT -6
i just recently got my left front wheel bearing replaced i didnt hear any whining but it did have a 12 to 6 rock and i bout the part from o'reilly's auto parts full assembly cost me $96 and cost $167 to get put on cause of the fact i had to get the alignment redone and plus labor
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Post by nyst8ofmind on Jan 29, 2014 7:37:06 GMT -6
Am I better off replacing both front hubs at the same time or just the side that I know has a bad bearing?
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on Jan 29, 2014 10:02:29 GMT -6
yea i would replace both at the same time well i replaced my front right side first and like a month or 2 later my front left one went bad so it might be best but i wouldnt say you need too
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XJSman89
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Post by XJSman89 on Jan 30, 2014 19:41:07 GMT -6
You don't need to replace them both. A bearing is a bearing, if it's good it's good. I had the speed sensor in one go out a couple years ago(had to replace the whole bearing) but the bearing itself was fine. Had the other side go out a few months ago, but it lasted 18 years til it failed.
Just replace the one you know is bad, the other side could have a few good years left.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note using ProBoards
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Post by beiland on Apr 22, 2015 11:12:56 GMT -6
Jack it up one side at a time, block the other 3 wheels ,have someone start it up ,put in drive accelerate to 40mph you well see which side it is believe me. Be careful to put your foot on brake and stop before shifting back to park So this will really tell you the problem? ...... So yesterday (before I am going to visit another unknown repair shop) I jack the front end up and try rotating the front wheels by hand to see if I can detect any unusual noises or resistance?...no noises, but driver's side tire (the one that was repaired) does seem to have more resistance to turning. Could their be an error in the installation?...perhaps tightened to much?? I then turn on the motor and run the wheels up a little in speed,...no noticeable noise. I jam one wheel from turning and other one turns faster. I then release that one and jam the drivers wheel, and same reaction. but when I release the drivers wheel it does not recover its speed as did the other side. I am highly suspicious that the drivers side is experiencing a LOT more resistance to rotating than the other side,....and this may be my continued noise up front.
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Post by Dominic on Apr 22, 2015 20:40:15 GMT -6
Check the torque on the Axle Nut is 118 ft. lbs, Also it might be the other side. Better to do both if they are originals with high miles. I just had to replace mine last month, The noise was definitely coming from the drivers side, no noise till around 30mph and it got louder the faster I went. Also noticed little oil spots around the inside of the driver tire. Got percision wheel hub assembly from Oreilly's, Tightened slowly with a air gun till snug then used a torque wrench to check and see it had the 118lbs specified and good to go, They were probably the originals on mine and they were at 163,000 miles, Check with a torque wrench. From what I gather too tight and it could cause problems, like possibly breaking the axle shaft.
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