Post by austinhealey on Jan 18, 2014 11:55:48 GMT -6
aurora door handle html.doc
jan 17 2014
Aurora Door Handle Writeup
This is an updated (and ridiculously over-detailed) writeup on how to replace the poorly designed driver’s door handle on first-gen 97-99 Auroras, since they frequently break (I‘m now on my third handle). Some of the content was borrowed from (or, more precisely, stolen from) a more concise writeup by ACNA member kdtravis, which helped me a great deal. It’s in this thread.
It also discusses a problem with the aftermarket door handle, and how to fix it, and points out that the factory manual is WRONG in its writeup of the repair.
The main thing required for this procedure is PATIENCE (and smaller hands wouldn’t hurt, either). Getting access to the handle is difficult/fiddly, as is replacing it. Figure on several hours if you haven’t done it before … and that’s with everything going RIGHT.
Necessary tools:
--Torx screwdriver or bit. If you don’t have these, it’s worth buying a cheap set from Harbor Freight or your favorite tool source, since Torx screws and bolts are used quite extensively in the Aurora and becoming more common in other household items (including Maytag refrigerators, for unknown reasons). Home Depot sells a nifty 8-in-1 Torx screwdriver for less than $6.
--Phillips screwdriver
--Very small regular screwdriver (1/8” blade)
--Plastic trim removing/prying tools, or makeshift substitutes (old credit cards, etc.) to avoid scratching paint
--Flashlight or trouble light
--Telescoping magnet tool, the stronger the better (this is essential if you want to recover bolts accidentally dropped to the bottom of the door, which I did all the time).
--Replacement door handle (Rock Auto, EBay or another online source for a non-OEM handle. Or an online GM dealer if you want to pay big bucks for an original handle, and if they’re still available). They come with a replacement plastic gasket. Make sure you’re getting a handle for the front door on the driver’s side – they are not interchangeable. I don’t think it’s worth getting a used handle, because it’s likely to break, too – maybe tomorrow, maybe in five years.
--Spray paint matching the color of your car (new handles come in black)
--White grease in a spray can with small tube (optional)
--Light lubricant for the lock cylinder (optional)
Part 1: Removing the door handle:
1. First, if you’ve painted the replacement handle, make sure it’s dried for at least 24 hours. Getting the handle back on the door is difficult, so you want to make sure the paint is completely cured and won’t chip or scratch easily.
2. Make sure the driver’s window is all the way UP and all the doors are UNLOCKED.
3. Disconnect battery. (I have learned the hard way that the Aurora can be very unhappy about having stuff done to it with the battery connected, even if it’s for something really innocuous.)
4. With a small (1/8") screwdriver, gently pry off the little plastic cover plate behind the inside door handle. Pry from the top.
5. Remove the large Phillips screw underneath the cover
6. Remove the oval plastic trim piece surrounding the inside handle, pulling slightly on the handle so the piece can be slipped out
7. Remove the skinny Phillips screws (two, I think) along the bottom of the door panel (they may be difficult to see in the carpeted trim). They have to be unscrewed many, many revolutions before they release from the door.
8. Remove the door panel by wriggling it UP slightly, then OUT.
9. Disconnect the three wiring connectors behind the panel, which are the usual pain in the a-- to loosen. Small screwdrivers or picks will help pry apart the female sides of the connectors slightly to release the locking tabs. Then put the panel somewhere where it won’t fall over and get dirty.
10. Peel back the visqueen (plastic-like Saran Wrap) weather shield on the left side of the door by a few inches to access the interior. If you’re doing this in really cold weather, you might need to warm the sealant slightly with a hair dryer to release the plastic; in really hot weather, expect to make a mess because the sealant will be runny.)
11. With a small screwdriver, pry off the small round cover plate near the top left of the door
12. With a Torx screwdriver, remove three bolts on the lower side of the door holding the latch mechanism. This will allow it to move up and down somewhat.
13. Using a socket wrench and ten-inch extension with a 10mm (I think) socket, remove the two bolts inside the door which attach the handle to the sheet metal. These are visible, with a flashlight, through access holes near the top, including the one on which you removed the cover. TIP: Scrape a pea-sized piece of dum-dum or that sticky putty holding the weather shield and put it inside the socket to keep the bolt from falling out. You'll need it during re-assembly. Or, after a bolt is loosened but not yet removed, extend the tip of the magnet tool so it’s next to the socket, and it will (hopefully) hold the bolt in place as you pull out the tool and the extension together.)
14. The following photo, borrowed from another ACNA member (a link to his repair procedure is lower) was taken through the round access hole near the top left of the door (looking slightly upward). You can see the (rusty) head of one of the bolts holding the handle. The second bolt is 4 ½ inches to the right, visible through a different access hole not shown in the photo.
15. With key, turn the door lock clockwise to its locked position.
16. Using plastic pry tools, loosen the outside door handle and pull it out a couple of inches (there will be lift rods attached to it). This is MUCH easier said than done. On the inside bottom of the handle are two small tabs that go behind the sheet metal (see photo lower in this writeup), which means theoretically you should pry from the top, but it’s gonna be a trial-and error effort (at least it was for me).
17. Once the handle is loosened slightly, you’ll see two lift rods attached to it. Disconnect the longer rod by swiveling the plastic clip, then pushing the rod inward.
18. Ease the handle completely out of the door (also easier said than done). Besides coming out, it also must move slightly to the left, then out a few inches. That will enable you to rotate the handle 180 degrees as necessary to disconnect the other lift rod (which has a hook at its end.) Note: the factory manual claims that the lift rods can be removed from the handle while it’s still bolted to the door. WRONG. Steps 13-18 in this section spell out how to do it.
19. After the handle is free from the door, remove the lock cylinder from the old handle by pulling out the retaining clip, then wiggling-pulling-pushing the lock itself. This is also a good time to lubricate the cylinder – WD 40 has always worked for me, but some people prefer a graphite lubricant.
Part 2: Repairing old handle or tweaking new handle.
Depending upon which part of the handle broke, you may be able to repair it. Check out the repair video on YouTube. There’s also a good writeup, with photos, by ACNA member rca99aurora for a similar repair, though I don’t think he’s the same person who posted the video. My first photo, above, was borrowed/stolen from his writeup.
Unfortunately, on both handles that I replaced, they broke in different locations and this fix was not possible.
If you’ve bought an aftermarket handle as a replacement, it may need some tweaking to work properly. The first aftermarket handle that I bought from Rock Auto worked fine (except for breaking after several years of use). The second aftermarket handle, also bought from Rock Auto in November 2013, was slightly different and wouldn’t unlock the door. (I would have returned it, but because others have reported this problem, there is no guarantee that the replacement would be any better. So I decided to tinker with it.)
The following photo shows the factory handle, as viewed from inside of the car. When the outside handle is pulled, it pushes the right end of the steel assembly downward, which pivots the left end (with the plastic clip) upward. The control rod attached to the clip pulls up on the latching mechanism lower in the door, releasing it.
The photo also shows the steel pivot assembly from the second aftermarket handle I bought (the one that didn’t work). The rivet is loose and already starting to break, the plastic clip is very floppy in its hole, and the metal arm holding the clip swivels too far downward. As a result, pulling on the door handle doesn’t lift the control rod high enough to release the door.
(By the way, if the plastic clip on your new handle is black instead of red, then you might have been lucky enough to get one of the older, but properly working, replacement parts.)
Potential fixes:
1) Compare the new and old handles to determine how far down the swivel arms are dropping. If the arm on the new handle is dropping lower, it can be fixed by removing the metal assembly and bending one of the two metal tabs on the reverse side that limit its movement (see previous photo).
2) Bend the bottom tab so it is closer to the top tab. This will limit the upward range of the swivel arm. You could do this using pliers or vise grips, squeezing the tabs in a vise, or putting the assembly on a hard surface and beating the top tab with a hammer (somewhat gently). You could attempt these fixes with the metal assembly still attached to the handle, but it’s much easier to remove it – and reduces the chance of damaging your new paint. Don’t bend the tab back and forth repeatedly or metal fatigue will result and it will break off.
3) Once this is done, replace the old locking cylinder in the back of the handle (so you don’t forget later). Also remove the plastic gasket around the new handle so it doesn’t get banged up during testing.
4) Re-attach the control rod and temporarily re-install the handle (see steps 5-7 in the next section) and re-attach the latch mechanism (Torx bolts -- lift mechanism slightly from inside the door to make the holes line up.) Then see if the door latch releases and the door opens when you pull on the handle. (You don’t need to attach the second control rod or the handle bolts for this test – just make sure the handle is held more or less flush against the door.) If it works, you’re done tweaking. If it doesn’t, look at the next three options.
5) If the plastic clip holding the control rod to the swivel arm is excessively floppy, consider instead using the clip from the old handle if you think you can remove it without breaking it.
6) If the preceding fixes don’t work, remove the entire control rod from the door by unclipping the bottom end from the latch mechanism. This is difficult but not impossible (but make sure to take note of how it is attached, for when you re-attach it.).
7) Measure the length of the rod. To make it slightly shorter (probably only ¼ to ½ inch is necessary), put some kinks in it (see two examples in graphic below). After kinking, compare the length of the rod to the original number. It might be helpful to watch this video, showing how a farmer tightens a wire fence with a pair of pliers, and use a similar technique to bend your rod. (The video is worth viewing if only to hear a rooster trying to disrupt the proceedings.)
8) If you use the kink method, the rod should be made slightly shorter than optimal, because the kinks will tend to expand as the rod is pulled repeatedly.
9) Alternatively, you could bend the top “L” on the rod at a slightly lower point, which would be simpler, except that if you make the rod too SHORT, you’ll create a different problem – the latch won’t close.
10) In my case, I swapped the steel assembly with the one from my first aftermarket handle, which had been working properly before a different component broke and thus didn’t need tweaking (plus it was slightly higher quality and the plastic clip wasn’t floppy). The used assembly had a larger pivot hole than the one on the new handle, but I press-fit a small washer into the hole to reduce its diameter. When re-installing, make sure the screw remains loose enough to let the assembly pivot on the handle.
11) Temporarily replace and re-test the handle as necessary while tweaking until you’re (reasonably) confident it is working properly.
Part 3 – Re-installing the handle.
1) If the latching assembly was re-installed for testing purposes, unscrew the three Torx bolts to release it from the door.
2) If you temporarily installed your new handle for testing purposes, pull it out slightly from the door and unlatch the control rod, then completely remove the handle.
3) If you disconnected the bottom of the control rod for tweaking purposes, re-attach it to the latching mechanism.
4) If you haven’t already, install the old locking cylinder in the back of the new handle. Make sure the metal retaining clip is seated properly.
5) Replace the plastic gasket surrounding the handle, which fits properly only in one direction (make sure two small holes in the gasket are lined up with two skinny mounting studs on the handle.)
6) At this point, the handle is ready to replace. Hold it close enough to the door so that you can re-attach BOTH control rods – making sure you attach the “hooked” rod to the locking cylinder first. On the other rod, after connecting it be sure to swivel the plastic clip so it clamps the rod in place.
7) Make sure the gasket is still aligned properly and gently push the handle back into the door. Start by holding it slightly to the left of the hole, so the pivoting end of the metal assembly (and attached rod) can slide behind the right-hand metal tab in the door. You may have to push it sufficiently to make ugly scraping noises, which doesn’t matter unless you get carried away. Try to be patient while fiddling, pushing and swearing, and it eventually will go in.
8) If the handle isn’t flush with the sheet metal, especially at the front and bottom, it probably means that the bottom mounting tabs inside the handle surround (refer to first photo of factory handle) are still outside the door. What worked for me was hitting the bottom part of the handle a few times with my fist until it popped in, as if I were seating a wheel cover. Or try a rubber mallet. Or try taking out the handle and try to insert the bottom tabs inside the sheet metal before pushing on the top (which didn’t work for me). Don’t try to draw the handle into the door by tightening the bolts – it won’t work and will bend the metal tabs in the door. (Also, resist the temptation to remove the handle and just beat the hell out of it … you’ve invested too much time and effort to give up so close to the finish line.)
9) After the handle is in place, look through an inside door access hole with a flashlight to make sure the control rods are still attached to the handle assembly and the latching mechanism.
10) Replace the mounting bolts holding the handle to the door. If your telescoping magnet is strong enough, attach it to a bolt head, poke it inside the door, and turn the magnet to start the bolt threads into the hole. Then you can pull away the magnet and tighten with your wrench.
11) If you don’t have a magnet, put something slightly sticky in your socket, insert the bolt, attach to your extension and install as usual. Or, what works for me is putting the bolt in the socket and wrapping a piece of masking tape around the socket so it barely holds the bolt head – maybe 1/8 of an inch. This will be strong enough to hold the bolt to the socket (theoretically) while you’re starting the threads, but weak enough so that the socket will come away easily when you’re done. (Make sure to remove the masking tape before you’ve tightened the bolt all the way so the tape can’t get stuck under the bolt head.)
12) Re-install the locking mechanism (Torx screws). Lift it slightly from inside the door to make the holes line up.
13) Test all locking and latching functions – outside key, inside and outside handles etc.
14) This is a good time to lubricate the electric window mechanism, especially if it’s starting to slow down. You may need to pull off the plastic shield in other places to gain access to the moving parts for your grease spray tube. You also may need to move the window up and down, which will require loosely reconnecting the appropriate electrical connector to the door panel and re-attaching the battery cable.
15) After lubrication, replace the plastic door shield wherever it’s been pulled away. If you made any huge new holes, patch them with vinyl repair tape or duct tape. Re-install the small round cover near the top left of the door.
16) If you hooked up the battery for testing or lubricating purposes, disconnect it.
17) Before replacing the door panel, examine its rear side to understand its angled or L-shaped mounting brackets, so you can visualize them when re-installing.
18) Bring the panel close enough to the door to re-connect the electrical connectors. They should close with a “click” to ensure they are seated properly.
19) Center the panel on the door, but hold it a couple of inches ABOVE its final location. Then press the upper half lightly against the door and slide it downward until you feel the upper brackets moving inward, through the mounting holes. Do NOT slide the panel farther down yet, but open the inside door handle so you can slide it through the panel from back to front. Then gently push inward on the bottom section of the panel to engage its L-brackets. Then gently push the panel DOWN 1-2 inches until it is seated against the door.
20) Carefully check to make sure ALL the panel brackets are seated in the door (the ones most likely to have missed their spots are on the top section). It may take a few attempts to get it right. There shouldn’t be any unusual bumps under the panel, or gaps between the edges of the panel and the door.
21) Replace the oval plastic trim piece surrounding the inside handle, pulling slightly on the handle while easing it into place.
22) Replace the large Phillips screw near the door handle and tighten, but do NOT use gorilla strength or you’ll strip the threads. (Note: If the Phillips screw doesn’t feel like it’s going into a hole, that means the door panel isn’t positioned properly. Try again.)
23) Replace the little plastic plate covering the Phillips screw. The larger notch should be on top.
24) Replace the skinny Phillips screws in the carpeted section at the bottom of the door panel.
25) Re-connect the battery.
26) If you’re feeling brave, re-test the door handle to make sure it still works. If you don’t want to face the possibility right now that your hopes and dreams have been crushed, then don’t test until tomorrow. Either way, you’re done for the day, because if the handle DOESN’T operate properly after all this work, you shouldn’t keep toiling in your current frame of mind. Give it a rest.
27) Go inside and enjoy the relaxing beverage of your choice. If necessary, yell at the dog or kick the cat to help you feel better.
jan 17 2014
Aurora Door Handle Writeup
This is an updated (and ridiculously over-detailed) writeup on how to replace the poorly designed driver’s door handle on first-gen 97-99 Auroras, since they frequently break (I‘m now on my third handle). Some of the content was borrowed from (or, more precisely, stolen from) a more concise writeup by ACNA member kdtravis, which helped me a great deal. It’s in this thread.
It also discusses a problem with the aftermarket door handle, and how to fix it, and points out that the factory manual is WRONG in its writeup of the repair.
The main thing required for this procedure is PATIENCE (and smaller hands wouldn’t hurt, either). Getting access to the handle is difficult/fiddly, as is replacing it. Figure on several hours if you haven’t done it before … and that’s with everything going RIGHT.
Necessary tools:
--Torx screwdriver or bit. If you don’t have these, it’s worth buying a cheap set from Harbor Freight or your favorite tool source, since Torx screws and bolts are used quite extensively in the Aurora and becoming more common in other household items (including Maytag refrigerators, for unknown reasons). Home Depot sells a nifty 8-in-1 Torx screwdriver for less than $6.
--Phillips screwdriver
--Very small regular screwdriver (1/8” blade)
--Plastic trim removing/prying tools, or makeshift substitutes (old credit cards, etc.) to avoid scratching paint
--Flashlight or trouble light
--Telescoping magnet tool, the stronger the better (this is essential if you want to recover bolts accidentally dropped to the bottom of the door, which I did all the time).
--Replacement door handle (Rock Auto, EBay or another online source for a non-OEM handle. Or an online GM dealer if you want to pay big bucks for an original handle, and if they’re still available). They come with a replacement plastic gasket. Make sure you’re getting a handle for the front door on the driver’s side – they are not interchangeable. I don’t think it’s worth getting a used handle, because it’s likely to break, too – maybe tomorrow, maybe in five years.
--Spray paint matching the color of your car (new handles come in black)
--White grease in a spray can with small tube (optional)
--Light lubricant for the lock cylinder (optional)
Part 1: Removing the door handle:
1. First, if you’ve painted the replacement handle, make sure it’s dried for at least 24 hours. Getting the handle back on the door is difficult, so you want to make sure the paint is completely cured and won’t chip or scratch easily.
2. Make sure the driver’s window is all the way UP and all the doors are UNLOCKED.
3. Disconnect battery. (I have learned the hard way that the Aurora can be very unhappy about having stuff done to it with the battery connected, even if it’s for something really innocuous.)
4. With a small (1/8") screwdriver, gently pry off the little plastic cover plate behind the inside door handle. Pry from the top.
5. Remove the large Phillips screw underneath the cover
6. Remove the oval plastic trim piece surrounding the inside handle, pulling slightly on the handle so the piece can be slipped out
7. Remove the skinny Phillips screws (two, I think) along the bottom of the door panel (they may be difficult to see in the carpeted trim). They have to be unscrewed many, many revolutions before they release from the door.
8. Remove the door panel by wriggling it UP slightly, then OUT.
9. Disconnect the three wiring connectors behind the panel, which are the usual pain in the a-- to loosen. Small screwdrivers or picks will help pry apart the female sides of the connectors slightly to release the locking tabs. Then put the panel somewhere where it won’t fall over and get dirty.
10. Peel back the visqueen (plastic-like Saran Wrap) weather shield on the left side of the door by a few inches to access the interior. If you’re doing this in really cold weather, you might need to warm the sealant slightly with a hair dryer to release the plastic; in really hot weather, expect to make a mess because the sealant will be runny.)
11. With a small screwdriver, pry off the small round cover plate near the top left of the door
12. With a Torx screwdriver, remove three bolts on the lower side of the door holding the latch mechanism. This will allow it to move up and down somewhat.
13. Using a socket wrench and ten-inch extension with a 10mm (I think) socket, remove the two bolts inside the door which attach the handle to the sheet metal. These are visible, with a flashlight, through access holes near the top, including the one on which you removed the cover. TIP: Scrape a pea-sized piece of dum-dum or that sticky putty holding the weather shield and put it inside the socket to keep the bolt from falling out. You'll need it during re-assembly. Or, after a bolt is loosened but not yet removed, extend the tip of the magnet tool so it’s next to the socket, and it will (hopefully) hold the bolt in place as you pull out the tool and the extension together.)
14. The following photo, borrowed from another ACNA member (a link to his repair procedure is lower) was taken through the round access hole near the top left of the door (looking slightly upward). You can see the (rusty) head of one of the bolts holding the handle. The second bolt is 4 ½ inches to the right, visible through a different access hole not shown in the photo.
15. With key, turn the door lock clockwise to its locked position.
16. Using plastic pry tools, loosen the outside door handle and pull it out a couple of inches (there will be lift rods attached to it). This is MUCH easier said than done. On the inside bottom of the handle are two small tabs that go behind the sheet metal (see photo lower in this writeup), which means theoretically you should pry from the top, but it’s gonna be a trial-and error effort (at least it was for me).
17. Once the handle is loosened slightly, you’ll see two lift rods attached to it. Disconnect the longer rod by swiveling the plastic clip, then pushing the rod inward.
18. Ease the handle completely out of the door (also easier said than done). Besides coming out, it also must move slightly to the left, then out a few inches. That will enable you to rotate the handle 180 degrees as necessary to disconnect the other lift rod (which has a hook at its end.) Note: the factory manual claims that the lift rods can be removed from the handle while it’s still bolted to the door. WRONG. Steps 13-18 in this section spell out how to do it.
19. After the handle is free from the door, remove the lock cylinder from the old handle by pulling out the retaining clip, then wiggling-pulling-pushing the lock itself. This is also a good time to lubricate the cylinder – WD 40 has always worked for me, but some people prefer a graphite lubricant.
Part 2: Repairing old handle or tweaking new handle.
Depending upon which part of the handle broke, you may be able to repair it. Check out the repair video on YouTube. There’s also a good writeup, with photos, by ACNA member rca99aurora for a similar repair, though I don’t think he’s the same person who posted the video. My first photo, above, was borrowed/stolen from his writeup.
Unfortunately, on both handles that I replaced, they broke in different locations and this fix was not possible.
If you’ve bought an aftermarket handle as a replacement, it may need some tweaking to work properly. The first aftermarket handle that I bought from Rock Auto worked fine (except for breaking after several years of use). The second aftermarket handle, also bought from Rock Auto in November 2013, was slightly different and wouldn’t unlock the door. (I would have returned it, but because others have reported this problem, there is no guarantee that the replacement would be any better. So I decided to tinker with it.)
The following photo shows the factory handle, as viewed from inside of the car. When the outside handle is pulled, it pushes the right end of the steel assembly downward, which pivots the left end (with the plastic clip) upward. The control rod attached to the clip pulls up on the latching mechanism lower in the door, releasing it.
The photo also shows the steel pivot assembly from the second aftermarket handle I bought (the one that didn’t work). The rivet is loose and already starting to break, the plastic clip is very floppy in its hole, and the metal arm holding the clip swivels too far downward. As a result, pulling on the door handle doesn’t lift the control rod high enough to release the door.
(By the way, if the plastic clip on your new handle is black instead of red, then you might have been lucky enough to get one of the older, but properly working, replacement parts.)
Potential fixes:
1) Compare the new and old handles to determine how far down the swivel arms are dropping. If the arm on the new handle is dropping lower, it can be fixed by removing the metal assembly and bending one of the two metal tabs on the reverse side that limit its movement (see previous photo).
2) Bend the bottom tab so it is closer to the top tab. This will limit the upward range of the swivel arm. You could do this using pliers or vise grips, squeezing the tabs in a vise, or putting the assembly on a hard surface and beating the top tab with a hammer (somewhat gently). You could attempt these fixes with the metal assembly still attached to the handle, but it’s much easier to remove it – and reduces the chance of damaging your new paint. Don’t bend the tab back and forth repeatedly or metal fatigue will result and it will break off.
3) Once this is done, replace the old locking cylinder in the back of the handle (so you don’t forget later). Also remove the plastic gasket around the new handle so it doesn’t get banged up during testing.
4) Re-attach the control rod and temporarily re-install the handle (see steps 5-7 in the next section) and re-attach the latch mechanism (Torx bolts -- lift mechanism slightly from inside the door to make the holes line up.) Then see if the door latch releases and the door opens when you pull on the handle. (You don’t need to attach the second control rod or the handle bolts for this test – just make sure the handle is held more or less flush against the door.) If it works, you’re done tweaking. If it doesn’t, look at the next three options.
5) If the plastic clip holding the control rod to the swivel arm is excessively floppy, consider instead using the clip from the old handle if you think you can remove it without breaking it.
6) If the preceding fixes don’t work, remove the entire control rod from the door by unclipping the bottom end from the latch mechanism. This is difficult but not impossible (but make sure to take note of how it is attached, for when you re-attach it.).
7) Measure the length of the rod. To make it slightly shorter (probably only ¼ to ½ inch is necessary), put some kinks in it (see two examples in graphic below). After kinking, compare the length of the rod to the original number. It might be helpful to watch this video, showing how a farmer tightens a wire fence with a pair of pliers, and use a similar technique to bend your rod. (The video is worth viewing if only to hear a rooster trying to disrupt the proceedings.)
8) If you use the kink method, the rod should be made slightly shorter than optimal, because the kinks will tend to expand as the rod is pulled repeatedly.
9) Alternatively, you could bend the top “L” on the rod at a slightly lower point, which would be simpler, except that if you make the rod too SHORT, you’ll create a different problem – the latch won’t close.
10) In my case, I swapped the steel assembly with the one from my first aftermarket handle, which had been working properly before a different component broke and thus didn’t need tweaking (plus it was slightly higher quality and the plastic clip wasn’t floppy). The used assembly had a larger pivot hole than the one on the new handle, but I press-fit a small washer into the hole to reduce its diameter. When re-installing, make sure the screw remains loose enough to let the assembly pivot on the handle.
11) Temporarily replace and re-test the handle as necessary while tweaking until you’re (reasonably) confident it is working properly.
Part 3 – Re-installing the handle.
1) If the latching assembly was re-installed for testing purposes, unscrew the three Torx bolts to release it from the door.
2) If you temporarily installed your new handle for testing purposes, pull it out slightly from the door and unlatch the control rod, then completely remove the handle.
3) If you disconnected the bottom of the control rod for tweaking purposes, re-attach it to the latching mechanism.
4) If you haven’t already, install the old locking cylinder in the back of the new handle. Make sure the metal retaining clip is seated properly.
5) Replace the plastic gasket surrounding the handle, which fits properly only in one direction (make sure two small holes in the gasket are lined up with two skinny mounting studs on the handle.)
6) At this point, the handle is ready to replace. Hold it close enough to the door so that you can re-attach BOTH control rods – making sure you attach the “hooked” rod to the locking cylinder first. On the other rod, after connecting it be sure to swivel the plastic clip so it clamps the rod in place.
7) Make sure the gasket is still aligned properly and gently push the handle back into the door. Start by holding it slightly to the left of the hole, so the pivoting end of the metal assembly (and attached rod) can slide behind the right-hand metal tab in the door. You may have to push it sufficiently to make ugly scraping noises, which doesn’t matter unless you get carried away. Try to be patient while fiddling, pushing and swearing, and it eventually will go in.
8) If the handle isn’t flush with the sheet metal, especially at the front and bottom, it probably means that the bottom mounting tabs inside the handle surround (refer to first photo of factory handle) are still outside the door. What worked for me was hitting the bottom part of the handle a few times with my fist until it popped in, as if I were seating a wheel cover. Or try a rubber mallet. Or try taking out the handle and try to insert the bottom tabs inside the sheet metal before pushing on the top (which didn’t work for me). Don’t try to draw the handle into the door by tightening the bolts – it won’t work and will bend the metal tabs in the door. (Also, resist the temptation to remove the handle and just beat the hell out of it … you’ve invested too much time and effort to give up so close to the finish line.)
9) After the handle is in place, look through an inside door access hole with a flashlight to make sure the control rods are still attached to the handle assembly and the latching mechanism.
10) Replace the mounting bolts holding the handle to the door. If your telescoping magnet is strong enough, attach it to a bolt head, poke it inside the door, and turn the magnet to start the bolt threads into the hole. Then you can pull away the magnet and tighten with your wrench.
11) If you don’t have a magnet, put something slightly sticky in your socket, insert the bolt, attach to your extension and install as usual. Or, what works for me is putting the bolt in the socket and wrapping a piece of masking tape around the socket so it barely holds the bolt head – maybe 1/8 of an inch. This will be strong enough to hold the bolt to the socket (theoretically) while you’re starting the threads, but weak enough so that the socket will come away easily when you’re done. (Make sure to remove the masking tape before you’ve tightened the bolt all the way so the tape can’t get stuck under the bolt head.)
12) Re-install the locking mechanism (Torx screws). Lift it slightly from inside the door to make the holes line up.
13) Test all locking and latching functions – outside key, inside and outside handles etc.
14) This is a good time to lubricate the electric window mechanism, especially if it’s starting to slow down. You may need to pull off the plastic shield in other places to gain access to the moving parts for your grease spray tube. You also may need to move the window up and down, which will require loosely reconnecting the appropriate electrical connector to the door panel and re-attaching the battery cable.
15) After lubrication, replace the plastic door shield wherever it’s been pulled away. If you made any huge new holes, patch them with vinyl repair tape or duct tape. Re-install the small round cover near the top left of the door.
16) If you hooked up the battery for testing or lubricating purposes, disconnect it.
17) Before replacing the door panel, examine its rear side to understand its angled or L-shaped mounting brackets, so you can visualize them when re-installing.
18) Bring the panel close enough to the door to re-connect the electrical connectors. They should close with a “click” to ensure they are seated properly.
19) Center the panel on the door, but hold it a couple of inches ABOVE its final location. Then press the upper half lightly against the door and slide it downward until you feel the upper brackets moving inward, through the mounting holes. Do NOT slide the panel farther down yet, but open the inside door handle so you can slide it through the panel from back to front. Then gently push inward on the bottom section of the panel to engage its L-brackets. Then gently push the panel DOWN 1-2 inches until it is seated against the door.
20) Carefully check to make sure ALL the panel brackets are seated in the door (the ones most likely to have missed their spots are on the top section). It may take a few attempts to get it right. There shouldn’t be any unusual bumps under the panel, or gaps between the edges of the panel and the door.
21) Replace the oval plastic trim piece surrounding the inside handle, pulling slightly on the handle while easing it into place.
22) Replace the large Phillips screw near the door handle and tighten, but do NOT use gorilla strength or you’ll strip the threads. (Note: If the Phillips screw doesn’t feel like it’s going into a hole, that means the door panel isn’t positioned properly. Try again.)
23) Replace the little plastic plate covering the Phillips screw. The larger notch should be on top.
24) Replace the skinny Phillips screws in the carpeted section at the bottom of the door panel.
25) Re-connect the battery.
26) If you’re feeling brave, re-test the door handle to make sure it still works. If you don’t want to face the possibility right now that your hopes and dreams have been crushed, then don’t test until tomorrow. Either way, you’re done for the day, because if the handle DOESN’T operate properly after all this work, you shouldn’t keep toiling in your current frame of mind. Give it a rest.
27) Go inside and enjoy the relaxing beverage of your choice. If necessary, yell at the dog or kick the cat to help you feel better.