All three passenger windows inop

[scout1]

Trying to help a friend with a 2001 Aurora. His drivers window goes up and down fine. The three other windows don't work. He had someone look at it and they said the passenger door module was bad. He didn't explain this clearly and I found the drivers module in a jy. Do all the doors have modules? and are they different? the JY said some Buick modules will work. Is that so? I pulled three drivers door moduels from a couple of Buicks. they all had the same part number but some of the other numbers on the label were different. How specific do you have to be with these modules? I am going to go back and pull a r/h passenger module and see if they are different. Any suggestions on what else coule cause just the passenger windows to not work?

Thanks for any help.

Ed

[Paulaurora]

Yes all doors have a module but it might be issue with broken wire in the boot or under the seat. most of the time module dont go out on auroras.

[sall]

First thing I would check is to make sure the window lock button is not engaged or is not broken. Unless you mean non of them work at all? Could also be door jamb wiring.

[scout1]

Thanks guys,

I would hope someone already checked the lock switch. The wires in the hinge area make more sense than three bad modules. Would a bad front passenger module keep the rears from working?

Ed

[Paulaurora]

Would a bad front passenger module keep the rears from working?
no the drive side one might.

[tigger]

Are the locks, door ajar switches and passenger side mirror also nonfunctional?

If so, my guess would be the serial data splice under the driver's seat. Especially if the car has ever had water leaking into the cabin. The connecter for the splice is some cheap POS scotchlock that will corrode if exposed to moisture.
If only the passenger windows are effected, likely culprits are DDM, switch assembly(master) or the wiring between the two, as mentioned above.

[beiland]

May 14, 2014 13:26:00 GMT -6 Paulaurora said:

Yes all doors have a module but it might be issue with broken wire in the boot or under the seat. most of the time module dont go out on auroras.

May 15, 2014 17:02:15 GMT -6 tigger said:

Are the locks, door ajar switches and passenger side mirror also nonfunctional?

If so, my guess would be the serial data splice under the driver's seat. Especially if the car has ever had water leaking into the cabin. The connecter for the splice is some cheap POS scotchlock that will corrode if exposed to moisture.
If only the passenger windows are effected, likely culprits are DDM, switch assembly(master) or the wiring between the two, as mentioned above.

Okay, just finished fixing my air-con problem, now I need to figure the window problem out.

My first hint at a problem was my passenger side rear window going down in little spurts, on its own, when I was driving. Since I have been having little problems with water entering the vehicle and wetting the carpets at different areas (sometimes pass side, sometimes drivers side, sometimes front, sometimes rear.....weird!!). Anyway I decided to leave all the windows down one sunny day to let it air out and dry out. Oh Oh, could not get the rear windows to go up,...keep trying for several days...no dice. I looked at the door jam areas for any bad wiring, could not find any. Could not get the rear windows to budge.

I had read somewhere about some connector under the drivers seat as a possible problem? I moved the drivers seat all way forward and began to manipulate a few of the connectors I found under that seat. Still could not get the windows to work. Big rain storm coming, so I decided to rig some plastic trash bag material with cardboard backup into the opening so I would not get flooded out. Just as I finished cutting the pieces out and starting to install them, I moved the drivers seat back to its most aft position. Suddenly when I tried the controls on the drivers door before completing my 'hole filling' exercise, BOTH rear windows went up....WOW, what happened?

Okay I didn't argue with the situation, just left them up until I could get some 'lectric clean' to spray all the control switches and the electrical connections under the driver seat,....believing I was going to 'clean' those electrical contacts of dust and moisture.

Today I decided to give those windows a try. NOTHING.

I want to think it is just a 'bad connection' somewhere rather than some module, due to the combination of both windows at the same time.
Any suggestions??

[Paulaurora]

Take the Motor from a working window and connected to the power and try to open the window see if the motor will work unless u have meter to check the voltage.

[boldsmobile]

How do you know you "manipulated" the data splice connector?

[ekaminsky2007]

Any one having same problem any one ever solve this? Check under seats dried up all the water and cleaned up connections and still nothing.

[Paulaurora]

and rear window might not go up cuz of the bad window regulator.

[tigger]

Serial data splice is under the carpet, not just the seat. 4 tan w/white stripe wires a few inches from the seat connector breakout.

[ekaminsky2007]

I have all seats out and carpet up. Wires were broken In driver door jam. Fixed and still nothing. Checked all others. Visually inspected wires from front of car back to fuse block past battery and back up... im sure the problem has to surface if I keep at it but is very frustrating.

[ekaminsky2007]

Ok so I didnt check every where. Tigger was right that was riggt where it was bad, amongst the other spots I fixed but this finally got it to work... however the motors are working but not the windows which means might not be saving as much as I thought I would. Really appreciate the help.!!!

[Paulaurora]

You mean window motors working but window doesn't move?.. if yes its an issue with Window regulators.

[ekaminsky2007]

Yes! Got the front passenger working. Opened up the door panel and the wire for the regulators snapped. So whoever owned it before used vise grips to hold up the windows. Needless to say I own another pair of vise grips and need two regulators. Nice cars but man oh man can ******* go south quick! Lol

[tigger]

Jun 29, 2014 9:18:55 GMT -6 ekaminsky2007 said:

...So whoever owned it before used vise grips to hold up the windows.

Haha, I've seen sticks serving the same purpose.


Glad you got power back. So two regulators and your set, right?

[ekaminsky2007]

All good now. But As far as all that water that builds up on the floor is there a certain area where it comes from that needs to be re sealed? Or drill holes for it to drain I guess.

[sall]

All I want to know is who signed off on using a scotchlock...it's perplexing really. I wonder how long it would take a tech to track that down or if it is common in many GM vehicles?

[wickhamizer]

Jun 29, 2014 20:40:40 GMT -6 sall said:

All I want to know is who signed off on using a scotchlock...it's perplexing really. I wonder how long it would take a tech to track that down or if it is common in many GM vehicles?

It can take a few minutes or hours.  Electrical demons are the hardest to sort out because little things cause the biggest trouble, and it never seems to be the same.  One car was a relay loose in the socket causing the door locks to work intermittently.  Another a connector in the door had come unplugged causing the window to not work.  Another had issues with rodent damage that caused all sorts of trouble (Impala.  Who sticks the pcm in the air box?  Rodent ate wires to access the box to build a nest.)  We have a list of steps we follow that do help, starting with verifying a good ground, and then power.  After that we start checking individual circuits for continuity.  The worst part is it can take hours to find the problem and the book says we get .3 of an hour (18 minutes) to do the job.  At least things like the rodent damage I get paid .2 per wire for repairs so fixing eight wires helped make up for the three hours it took to find the trouble.

[sall]

Haha it was a rhetorical question. I am well versed in the electrical dept. Not all techs are created equal(I'm not one though). The real question is how common is using that stupid 'scotchlock'? Does GM use that in other [similar]vehicles? Although water is an issue for this as well. I'm not sure, but I wouldn't doubt it. The PCM is a head scratcher though. That's where 2G PCM is as well(you probably know that though!).

[beiland]

Jun 28, 2014 18:23:11 GMT -6 ekaminsky2007 said:

I have all seats out and carpet up. Wires were broken In driver door jam. Fixed and still nothing. Checked all others. Visually inspected wires from front of car back to fuse block past battery and back up... im sure the problem has to surface if I keep at it but is very frustrating.

Just recalled that I participated in this discussion already. And yes I have that same current problem with all 3 passenger windows not working, but driver's window is fine,....so far !!

Just saw this posting (quoted above), so I will have to look for that connector that is 'under the carpet' rather than just under the seat,....got my fingers crossed.

[tigger]

beiland, I posted a picture in your thread. Hope it helps.

[beiland]

I will have to try to find that one connector you pointed out on the other subject thread. Haven't had time to fool around with this as I've had a brake problem.

BTW, isn't the forum suppose to notify you by email when someone post and answer to a subject you are involved with??
I have been getting any notifications??

[Paulaurora]

nope no notifications as i know of.

[beiland]

Jul 23, 2014 10:44:15 GMT -6 Paulaurora said:

nope no notifications as i know of.

Yes that kind of threw me. Many of the boating forums I participate in, and even a 'Windows" forum allow you to chose to be notified when someone post onto a subject thread in which you are involved. That's handy

I've had notifications on subject threads that were several years old, and some might term inactive,...but they were good informative postings dealing with the subject at hand.

[beiland]

Just a follow up on this subject thread in case someone else finds it when they are looking at how to fix this problem.

There is a very good posting(s) over here, along with some good photos.
aurorah.proboards.com/thread/29664/passenger-rear-windows-locks-work?page=1&scrollTo=325176

[wfooshee]

Was the forum structure different at some time within the time since this thread started? It's in Audio, Electric, and Lighting '95-'99, but it's a question about a 2001. Just in case this comes up in a search by someone actually looking for this symptom on a classic rather than a 2nd-gen, I figured I'd note a couple of differences.

There are no modules in the door's other than the driver's door, and there is no serial data link in the windows systems. In the FSM schematic there is a box marked "solid state" in the box that represents the window motor, but that is part of the motor assembly and not a separately replaceable module.

The passenger windows are, in fact, among the few devices in the car that are actually operated directly by the switch, rather than the switch inputting a module which in turn operates the device.

A problem with the window lock switch and its associated Dark Blue wire would kill the passenger and rear windows, and I believe that to be the only failure point that would kill all three windows in the classic Aurora. If you have dead windows in the classic, you should look for that dark blue wire to be broken at the driver's door jamb, or a broken window-lock switch in the door. That's it.

Here ends my contribution to the out-of-place zombie thread.