plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 2, 2014 13:10:17 GMT -6
gene, got my brand new ACDELCO fuel rail pressure regulator in. Added a light coat of Vaseline on the O-ring and, cleaned the area and Installed it. Primed the fuel system a couple times by turning the key in the on position for 20 seconds then off again and repeat two times. Then fired her up! NO MORE MISS!!!!! It fixed it! I hope this helps!
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Oct 2, 2014 13:20:50 GMT -6
Nice!
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Oct 2, 2014 20:01:56 GMT -6
...fired her up! NO MORE MISS!!!!! It fixed it! Haha, sweet! Go buy your Dad a beer for the free diag!
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 2, 2014 21:52:22 GMT -6
Haha, sweet! Go buy your Dad a beer for the free diag! Hahaha yeah no kidding!! Among the several I still owe him for the engine swap, head stud kit install, oil leak fix, etc!!
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 4, 2014 21:40:11 GMT -6
UPDATE: nope, still have a miss took it to the strip today and it killed my 1/4 mile. Embarrassing. Sputtered and caused me to run way slow
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Oct 6, 2014 5:49:51 GMT -6
I have a miss now, it started a day before I went to the strip, still had a decent time, but it could have been better.
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Post by genedjr on Oct 14, 2014 16:08:35 GMT -6
With the new boots and replacing that one spark plug, the miss is now very slight but still there and noticeable. And throws the P300 error. OK,I borrowed a friends ELM 327 bluetooth scanner and downloaded the free version of Torque for Android. I have everything connected and most of the gauges follow the red expected arrow, except the O2 sensors. The engine was at operating temperature, but I am not sure how long to warm up the O2 sensors. After a while 2 of the sensors did as described by jumping around between .1v and 1.0v. The jumping around was irregular. But bank 1 sensor 2 did move, but no jumping there. I am wondering if it was just not warm enough. Now I went out and plugged in the MDX and the O2 sensors jumped around almost at regular intervals. The Aurora did not, the jumping around was not regular and as noted bank 1 sensor 2 did move but no jumping. Also - I got a Fuel system status going between being controlled by O2 sensors and open loop due to system failure. It went back and forth several times in my 15 minute test (then the kids needed the car ). With all three NEW O2 sensors acting funny, I am now concerned about the PCM. Thoughts? I may try the pressure regulator swap. On my 93 grand am I had issues there but the miss was much more pronounced and there was almost no power. But may buy another tool first to check the pressure. ...gene
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Post by genedjr on Oct 16, 2014 16:03:36 GMT -6
Well, I got a longer test in today and it is the same. The O2 readings move but do not fluctuate as most tests describe they should. The status move between close loop using O2 sensors for fuel trim, to open loop because of system failure - back and forth. I am going to pull the front O2 sensor (easiest to get at) and test it with a torch. If it works as I suspect it will, I am going to pull the PCM connectors and flush them out with electrical contact cleaner. And if that fails to fix it, I am off to U-Pull-N-Pay for a replacement PCM. (I read about having the PCM re-programmed and doing the recalibration for the crankshaft position sensors in the service manuals. If we get there, I will try it first, then look at a re-flash and recalibration.) ...gene EDIT: doing more searching on Google produced this: www.ehow.com/how_8124821_test-aurora-o2-sensor.htmlNot cycling is bad.
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 16, 2014 20:08:45 GMT -6
Thanks for the update gene. I'm going to try a couple things next week after I get back from hunting. I have two bottles of Berryman's B12 Chemtool (not the spray) and I'm going use one to take the vacuum line from the fuel pressure reg and pour the bottle in while running to try and remove any buildup in the intakes tunnels or clean any possible sticking valves. Then remove the injectors and rig something up and try to check spray patters (googled bench test and saw some easy ways to do it yourself) and then before taking it back on the road, I'm going to change the fuel filter! Hopefully next weeks project!
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Post by genedjr on Oct 17, 2014 9:18:27 GMT -6
With more reading, and more thought, I am leaning toward fuel pressure or injector issues. In reviewing how O2 sensors are used to control fuel/air ratio I am becoming convinced that the O2 sensors and computer are working. I am off to U-Pull-N-Pay today for a tranny cable and will see if I can pick up a fuel pressure regulator as well.
If that works, I will get a new one as they are only $25.
If not, I too will pull the fuel rail and test the injectors.
I feel I am narrowing it down. Just a couple more things to figure out. ...gene
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Post by genedjr on Oct 19, 2014 8:38:39 GMT -6
Maybe, just maybe - its fixed. I went to the junk yard and obtained a fuel pressure regulator and put it on. (BTW: cover the regulator with a rag or be prepared for a gas shower. ) Fired it up and nothing changed. I really did not have time to investigate further until this morning. So I went out this morning and fired it up, same rough running. I decided to see if disconnecting the line would change anything, nope. Then using pipe cleaners I made sure the passageway was clean and the little plastic vacuum line was OK - yep. Then I noticed that the rubber connector on the front valve cover had split completely down the side. Might be a vacuum leak there . Remember in a earlier post I has replaced this along with the other end with auto parts store new parts. I will be taking it back. I did have a piece of 3/8 hose and put that on. Fired it back up - NOW the O2 sensors are bouncing like they are supposed to. I am not sure ifs it's the regulator or the vacuum leak - but its better now. And its running smooth. I did not get a road test and once again other priorities are in play, but I will later this afternoon. Since I have the old regulator - I will swap it back in and see if it is the culprit. If it is, I will get a new one. Maybe, just maybe, it's fixed. ...gene
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Post by genedjr on Oct 20, 2014 11:47:20 GMT -6
OK, longer test ride and yes it's fixed. Nice smooth running, power throughout the RPM range. I confirmed that the old fuel pressure regulator is not working correctly. While I put the junk yard one back in, I will be buying a new fuel pressure regulator. Of all the various things I did, I believe these directly contributed to the fix: - O2 sensor replacement
- Plug boot replacement
- Vacuum leak fixes (various)
- Fuel pressure regulator replacement
The other stuff I did certainly did not hurt, but in hindsight did not fix anything.
One note - getting the Torque Android app and a ELM 327 ODB2 scanner was fundamental in helping me understand and fix that last issue that was a combination of vacuum leak and bad fuel pressure regulator. Also note that I am going to get a better scanner as the ELM 327 I borrowed does not handle all the codes and is very slow.
Now that the engine is done, it's on to the other things... ...gene
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Oct 20, 2014 21:23:46 GMT -6
Way to chase it down! Great work!
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 21, 2014 8:41:01 GMT -6
great! When I changed my fuelrail pressure reg it seemed to clear things up alot! But its still very intermittent so i've got to do a couple other things. I've still got to change the fuel filter and I'll look into the O2 sensors. Good to know its running as it should!
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Post by genedjr on Oct 24, 2014 14:22:12 GMT -6
Well, not so fast. I changed the fuel pressure regulator with a new one. Reset the code. Drove around for 20 minutes and no new code. So I thought it was fixed. Daughter takes car and it immediately throws the random misfire code.
So I hook up the scanner and it moves between closed loop using O2 sensors and open loop due to system failure. This happens at irregular intervals sometimes seconds apart sometimes a minute or so.
What can cause that? What system is failing? ...gene
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 25, 2014 13:23:21 GMT -6
Gene, have you read similar posts that it might be the two crankshaft position sensors? That's my next changeout to fix my slight miss. Search ckp on the forum
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 25, 2014 13:24:19 GMT -6
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Post by genedjr on Oct 26, 2014 9:13:47 GMT -6
Thanks, I read through this and it does make sense. I think I will hop out to the u-pull-n-pay they did have 2 caddies out there with the right engine. I also asked if these were finicky and must be OEM, for the pair its a $50 difference. The only difference I see is that I have no stalling issues. It just runs very rough when warmed up. ...gene
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Post by guy48065 on Oct 26, 2014 21:09:27 GMT -6
Gene I may have missed it but what "various" vac leaks have you found and fixed? When running Torque what did your long - term fuel trims look like?
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Post by genedjr on Oct 26, 2014 22:42:33 GMT -6
Gene I may have missed it but what "various" vac leaks have you found and fixed? When running Torque what did your long - term fuel trims look like? Front valve cover to intake (both end pieces) Throttle body gasket to intake (loose) PVC value lose (replace grommet) Valve cover gaskets (leaked so badly you could hear the vacuum leak and spraying of oil) EGR loose - just tighten - gasket and valve was OK. This was just going through all the specs and torquing down. ...gene
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Post by genedjr on Oct 29, 2014 12:51:39 GMT -6
Thanks, I read through this and it does make sense. I think I will hop out to the u-pull-n-pay they did have 2 caddies out there with the right engine. I also asked if these were finicky and must be OEM, for the pair its a $50 difference. The only difference I see is that I have no stalling issues. It just runs very rough when warmed up. ...gene So, maybe... I went to the u-pull-n-pay on Monday got the crank position sensors and yesterday put them in. Plugged in the scanner and cleared the CEL. Drove around for 20 minutes and all was well. Kids took the car and all was well. I started it up this morning and let it warm up and all was well. With the scanner attached once warm it stayed in closed loop mode. I watched for 10 minutes and all was well. I am going to give it a week. If all is well I will buy new crank position sensors and hopefully this is behind me. ...gene
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Post by genedjr on Oct 31, 2014 8:03:28 GMT -6
GRRRRR..... Started it up last night and it immediately threw the random misfire code. By immediately I mean within 2 seconds. So while I think the sensors helped, this baffles me. ...gene
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fastedd1e
Aurora Newbie
Bring on the snow!
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Post by fastedd1e on Nov 21, 2014 15:23:22 GMT -6
Hey guys! So happy I found this site and thread. I was afraid i popped a head gasket on a 01 V8Aur I bought. Im doing plugs and boots tonight!
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Dec 16, 2014 11:44:28 GMT -6
fastedd1e, what problems are you experiencing?
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Post by genedjr on Dec 18, 2014 13:30:10 GMT -6
This issue is very minor now, but still there. I still am leaning toward a vacuum leak. To that end I have decided to replace all the intake o-rings/gaskets from the intake manifold, injectors, throttle body, etc. - ~$50 in parts or so. And while doing that I will test all the injectors. I really like the car so I will get this solved . ...gene
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Post by genedjr on Dec 22, 2014 10:47:53 GMT -6
Check your anti-backfire valve, it is behind the power steering pump in the side of the intake, look with a flashlight. There is a door, and the seal of the whole valve assembly sometimes goes bad. I doubt this is your problem, but it does not hurt to check. Use Ac delco spark plugs only, IMO do not use sea foam for anything. Can anyone provide a part number or a part name? I found a the part once but simply can't now and I want to replace this with the rest of the gaskets while I have it apart. ...gene
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Post by genedjr on Dec 23, 2014 10:44:19 GMT -6
OK, According to this pic (thanks to Tonkin online parts) the 2001 does not have this backfire valve. I know I found something a couple of weeks ago - humm. So I guess I have all I need to pull and replace all the rubber for the intake. ...gene
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Jan 28, 2015 23:19:45 GMT -6
I think I have tracked down the random misfire problem. after changing several things out with no luck, my mechanic (dad) suggested i check fuel pressure and low and behold i'm only at 35 PSI. He stated that was way too low. The shop manual confirmed this and says it should be from 41-47 PSI, and bottom line, to replace fuel pump assembly...so here we go! genedjr I hope this helps!
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Post by genedjr on May 4, 2015 11:42:24 GMT -6
ahh - I finally got back to this issue. I replaced the entire manifold gasket set to include the big coupling between the manifold and the engine water routing assembly (or whatever its called). This seems to have solved the misfire issue at last, but again I will give it a couple of weeks to see. And yes I took pictures so you'll all see what it takes to do this.
It still has very little power, so I also did a fuel pressure test and got right under 40psi. Where did you get the required 41 to 47 psi? I tired looking it up and your reference is the only one I found. Thanks!
So I will order a pump. BTW - did you order just the pump or the whole assembly? ...gene
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Post by ejohnson03 on May 4, 2015 18:53:49 GMT -6
I am very appreciative for this post, and for all of the hard work "genedjr" has put into tracking down a cure for this issue.
Bought a pack of Boots N Springs, and AC Delco Professional Iridium plugs.
As we all know the front bank is pretty darn easy to swap out.
That pesky rear bank is crazy...
I was able to remove all of the hardware from the Coil Pack.
However, I am not able to remove the Coil Pack.
Any secret to removing that Vacuum thing in between the Valve cover and the Firewall?
Thanks.
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