|
Post by sssaurora on Jul 13, 2014 18:02:16 GMT -6
last september after i turned on the air i heard a whistling sound from the compressor. i drove 8 blocks to my destination. after i left the whistling stopped but the air on driver side was warm and cool on the pass side. the next day it was blowing all hot air. it now holds a charge for about a day. ive got some super seal from ac pro that im thinking of taking back because some of the things ive read. the compressor doesnt come on unless i wire it from the fuse box. could this mean the compressor has gone out?
|
|
|
Post by Marc on Jul 13, 2014 18:38:34 GMT -6
There is a low pressure switch that turns off current to the compressor if the refrigerant is too low. What you are talking about sounds like a leak somewhere in the system, and that's causing that switch to cut off electricity to the compressor.
|
|
|
Post by sssaurora on Jul 13, 2014 20:24:14 GMT -6
There is a low pressure switch that turns off current to the compressor if the refrigerant is too low. What you are talking about sounds like a leak somewhere in the system, and that's causing that switch to cut off electricity to the compressor. i see. ive used the freon with uv die. but i didnt see it leak even though it all leaked out. could it be a bad compressor?
|
|
|
Post by Marc on Jul 13, 2014 21:28:46 GMT -6
I think that the compressor is good. If you didn't see a leak anywhere in the engine compartment then the leak could be in the evaporator, which is in its own compartment next to the blower motor.
|
|
|
Post by sssaurora on Jul 13, 2014 22:24:26 GMT -6
I think that the compressor is good. If you didn't see a leak anywhere in the engine compartment then the leak could be in the evaporator, which is in its own compartment next to the blower motor. looks like ill have to go without air. none of my windows go down. have any idea how i can fix this? should i try the ac super seal? ive waisted enough money on this
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 13, 2014 23:24:38 GMT -6
Don't use leak sealer, ever.
|
|
|
Post by sssaurora on Aug 8, 2014 15:58:58 GMT -6
I think that the compressor is good. If you didn't see a leak anywhere in the engine compartment then the leak could be in the evaporator, which is in its own compartment next to the blower motor. is the evaporator hard to change?
|
|
|
Post by tahiti on Aug 9, 2014 21:13:27 GMT -6
AC repair is not for the novice, if you don't want to take it to a professional, your best bet is to fix the windows.
|
|
Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Aug 20, 2014 6:23:33 GMT -6
Can you hear your window motors working when you push the switch? Window regulator motor assembly cost around $70 on rockauto.com, takes less than an hour to change.
Since you put dye in your ac system, did you put it on a lift and look at it with a uv light and glasses? I would suggest finding the actual leak before you start buying and installing new parts.
|
|
|
Post by sssaurora on Aug 21, 2014 1:03:41 GMT -6
Can you hear your window motors working when you push the switch? Window regulator motor assembly cost around $70 on rockauto.com, takes less than an hour to change. Since you put dye in your ac system, did you put it on a lift and look at it with a uv light and glasses? I would suggest finding the actual leak before you start buying and installing new parts. when i click the driver window it makes no sound other than a click from the switch. i hear nothing at all when i try the others but thats because the wires on my driver side door are all coming apart. when the back window went out the motor made a grinding noise. before all the other windows and power locks went out. so i know ill have to get the wires fixed before i get the other windows. but now i just need the driver side window fixed also since its the only door that has power. for the a/c i put 12 oz 15$ can of freon/uv die in wth black light found no leaks and it worked for 2 days. so i brought it to a shop to have it checked. they claimed to check it and said it was fine and only needed a 10 oz can. so they charged me 70$ and it worked for one day. so i gt som ac superseal 24$ for metal leaks but took it back since i read some bad stuff about it. its about 3 mnths left of this swamp heat. and i drive 67 miles a day. i stopped cracking my door because it kept flying open so i arrive everywhere dripping in sweat. any help will be appreciated thanks.
|
|
Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Aug 21, 2014 6:25:24 GMT -6
Try this, have your interior lights turned on as you use the drivers window switch, see it the lights slightly dim when you push the switch. If they do, that more than likely tells you the switch is working and the window motor may be the culprit. Not always, but more than likely.
If you really need your window down, pull your door panel and take your regulator off, then roll your window up and down with your hands, you will have to leave the door panel off so if your window falls down you can slide it back up. If it was me I would just fix it, repair your wires, if you need any help, we can help you out on it.
On your AC, I would take it back to the shop, the sooner the better, if you paid them to check it and they said it was ok, then they have a responsibility to back up their work.
|
|
|
Post by sssaurora on Aug 21, 2014 17:56:14 GMT -6
Try this, have your interior lights turned on as you use the drivers window switch, see it the lights slightly dim when you push the switch. If they do, that more than likely tells you the switch is working and the window motor may be the culprit. Not always, but more than likely. If you really need your window down, pull your door panel and take your regulator off, then roll your window up and down with your hands, you will have to leave the door panel off so if your window falls down you can slide it back up. If it was me I would just fix it, repair your wires, if you need any help, we can help you out on it. On your AC, I would take it back to the shop, the sooner the better, if you paid them to check it and they said it was ok, then they have a responsibility to back up their work. thats the thing i took my car back already and they told me that they would take 70 off whatever my repair bill would be. which isnt fair all they will do is charge some crazy repair bill and say it could be more but we took off 70 since we didnt know what we were doing. i took someones advice and went to a well known profes. shop and this is what i get -70$ bucks when i paid 15$ did it myself and it worked a day longer. so im about done with these so call mechanics. plus since i took my car to them its been startin funny. im also think of going back to try the super seal. dont have alot to spend. so which tools will i need to remove the regulater? thanks.
|
|
Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Aug 22, 2014 5:54:03 GMT -6
I have had bad experiences at shops, also, so I know what you mean. That sucks!
Window regulator is pretty easy, remove door panel and the regulator is held on by a few 10mm bolts, you will not need much more than something to pry with and a socket set with extension.
|
|