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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 16:21:09 GMT -6
I have a 2001 aurora with 102k, my issue the a/c system, it only blows hot air. Just purchased this car and the a/c clutch does not engage when turned on or when relay is bypassed. I check all fuses and none are blown. Lady I purchased from said her mechanic checked it out and said it was compressor, but said he would only fix it by replacing compressor, drier, condenser. Please help. This car is one the nicest I have owned and I would love to improve it from it current condition. Thank you. Scanned CEL and came up with a P1546 code.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 8, 2014 16:29:40 GMT -6
P1546 =A/C Clutch Status Circuit Low Voltage. when u replace compressor other things are must to replace for compressor manufacture to give u warranty . i would go to another mechanic and check for leaks it might be as simple as no freon in a system.
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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 17:14:53 GMT -6
Any way of checking this without spending money? No mechanics around me will do a free diagnostics or leak check. What might I need to check this at home? Thank you Paul for your quick response.
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Post by sssaurora on Aug 8, 2014 17:24:24 GMT -6
are u using a jump wire to bypass?
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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 17:32:41 GMT -6
I used a paper clip in a/c clutch relay slot and jumped 87 to 30
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 8, 2014 18:34:14 GMT -6
you can buy self recharging kits with dye and recharge the system and see if it works. some come with the gauge. but it be about 60$ or so and most shops will charge about 100 but they can diagnose more.
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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 18:49:32 GMT -6
assuming it does not leak, what could i do on my own. ive always heard too much freon can hurt a system, please let me know if throwing a dye freon can in it without pressure testing first wont damage anything. thanks again
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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 18:50:19 GMT -6
could i rent a tool from the autozone to diagnosis it further?
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Post by sempar on Aug 8, 2014 18:53:08 GMT -6
P1546 is a a/c clutch relay / circuit problem, not a compressor problem. Check for 12v at the relay circuit receptacle in the fuse box. The ground for the relay circuit is the PCM. If PCM driver fails the circuit will not be grounded.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 8, 2014 19:01:45 GMT -6
Bad compressor can cause this too or some kind of short . The pressure gauge will tell u if there is Freon or not before u recharge .
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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 19:02:38 GMT -6
so i need to test with a multimeter the relay pins of the ac clutch, should i start with pins 87 and 30 and what should my multimeter be set on thanks everyone would quick response and all the help.
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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 19:12:18 GMT -6
and if my ac clutch does not engage will the pressure read correctly on a pressure gauge? if im almost positive theres no leak, how hard is it to replace the a/c compressor yourself.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 8, 2014 19:17:01 GMT -6
its not easy but can be done .
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Post by saurora on Aug 8, 2014 19:32:26 GMT -6
whats the easiest way of accessing the compressor? thanks paul
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 8, 2014 21:28:53 GMT -6
From the bottom of cause makes it so much easy when its on a lift
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Post by canaboy on Aug 10, 2014 22:07:43 GMT -6
Did you check the ground circuit of the compressor ??
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Post by saurora on Aug 13, 2014 13:42:59 GMT -6
No I have not
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Post by canaboy on Aug 13, 2014 20:36:35 GMT -6
If you jump the CLU relay and the compressor clutch is not clicking, there are possibilities such as:-
1) clutch itself is shot
2) broken positive wire that feed the compressor
3) high pressure safety switch ? blown at rear of the compressor.
4) broken ground wire connection at the harness along the rear valve cover gasket.
So, you need to get under the car, remove the big plastic shield then you can see the connector right on the side( facing front of the car ) of the compressor.
If you do find a grounding problem, don't bother to locate where the ground point is. Just cut and splice in a new piece of wire and ground it at the frame rail where the battery ground is bolted to.
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Post by saurora on Aug 15, 2014 11:46:32 GMT -6
Will check it out and let you know how it goes, the compressor was not clicking when I jumped the relay.
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Post by saurora on Aug 15, 2014 21:54:46 GMT -6
Ground was fine no breaks. I ordered a compressor today online used. I'm not sure how much Freon is still in the system or if I need to add oil to the used compressor when I receive it, it comes with a 199 day warranty. All the info you can give me on switching out the compressor would greatly be appreciated, as I will starting the job when it arrives.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Aug 15, 2014 23:16:10 GMT -6
2001 system holds 9 oz. PAG 150 oil and 35 oz. R-134a refrigerant. You should also replace the dryer (accumulator) and orifice tube.
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Post by saurora on Aug 16, 2014 7:16:28 GMT -6
can I remove the compressor even if it has Freon in the system, how do I add oil? I got the compressor for $82 shipped. If I bought an orifice tube and accumulator that would be another $100, is it really that worth it, I'm asking because I really haven't a clue? Any tutorials/ writes up's on replacing a compressor?
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Post by canaboy on Aug 16, 2014 14:51:09 GMT -6
With the CLU relay disconnected, with a/c on, engine running, you try to plug in the CLU relay and it clicks ?
You put FUSED direct jumper power to the compressor connector + and and ground the other terminal of the connector and the clutch does not engage ?
You check the high pressure safety ( or high temperature ) switch at the rear end of the compressor and it is ok ?
If you answer yes to all the above, you need a clutch coil or compressor.
If you don't have a clue, it is better leave it to the mechanics for the job.
You need to empty out the system before you replace the compressor and should try your best to reduce green house effect.
It is a good practice to replace the dryer at the time you replace the compressor, but it is not a must because of the R134 instead of R12 your car is using.
Suggest to disconnect your orifice tube on top of the dryer and inspect the screen for amount of debris.
It is normal to have some fragments stuck to the screen but not full of " metal filings ". Once you the screen is saturated with metal filings, the dryer should be replaced and system blown out or flushed out.
Once again, if you don't have a clue, you should leave it to the pro.
Good luck
You need clean environment to work on a/c system and compressed air blower should be used to clean the surrounding area before you take things apart.
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Post by saurora on Aug 16, 2014 15:20:13 GMT -6
clutch doesn't engage on compressor, I know 100% its compressor, just never did a compressor R&R. Would like to know the bare minimum to extend the compressors longevity? Going to have my wife's uncle use his recycle unit to empty out my system. Already purchased a compressor, so I'm already ankle deep in the river and I plan on crossing it. Any help or tutorials on the compressor R&R would be appreciated, but if none on the aurora exist, I'll research the job on 10 other vehicles. I eventually need to learn it as I'm not rich, might as well be when my car needs it. A few mechanics quotes were in the range of $700-1400 because they were not willing to replace with used parts and not willing to replace only the compressor.
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Post by saurora on Aug 16, 2014 17:42:41 GMT -6
Anyone near me willing to help, I have cash to give but not much. I'm in the Kentucky
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Post by canaboy on Aug 16, 2014 18:07:30 GMT -6
Thank goodness that I have no hands on experience on replacing the compressor on an Aurora. I am on my second Aurora 3.5. First one lasted 270000km but the body was in bad shape. Hope I will have nothing to do with the alternator or the compressor on my second one. So, go by the book.........
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Post by tahiti on Aug 16, 2014 21:09:52 GMT -6
I think you are going to spend a lot of time and money and not have a system that works, or one that does not work for long. You need to pull the orifice tube and post a picture of it, its condition can tell you a lot about what is going on in the system, replacing the compressor without replacing the orifice tube and accumulator is penny wise and pound foolish. Most shade tree mechanics don't have the equipment to do the job correctly. Not raining on your parade, just passing on my experience.
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Post by saurora on Aug 17, 2014 7:07:37 GMT -6
Please don't be a pessimist. This job is going to be a walk in the park, My wife's uncle is going to remove the Freon for me today, and he said he will vacuum the air for me after I get the compressor installed. Not everyone has to replace all parts, I feel a couple people have been brainwashed by stealer ships. I can understand how one might get a little envious of my ideas when they spent arms and legs to fix their issue. I'll install a new drier and make sure the orifice tube is free of debris. A compressor will be replaced, along with a drier, for $100. That's opposite of spending money.
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Post by canaboy on Aug 17, 2014 11:30:07 GMT -6
I am glad that now you are fully qualified to own a G2 Aurora, that you have a deep pocket as well as a handy man.
I would also disconnect the battery before I partially undo the alternator.
Without consulting with the manual, I swear that I would try to remove the cooing fan and do it from the top.
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Post by saurora on Aug 17, 2014 13:03:44 GMT -6
I will do my best to take pictures of the job, haven't received the compressor yet. I most certainly appreciate the tutorial. Thanks and will let you know if any questions need answering. If there is anything I'm missing please let me know.
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