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Post by ohiobuckeye on Jan 27, 2015 17:38:08 GMT -6
Changed shocks a couple weeks ago and failed to fully rid the car of rear end "clunk". Poured thru topics on a search and found the end links on the trailing arms can be the fault. Link ends are unavailable and short of buying the whole arm I figured I would get new dust boots and remove, clean, check, regrease and reassemble. Tighten the crap out of what I could and hope for the best. Good news is that the links were still in pretty good shape and now no clunk. (Drivers side had some play and was slapping out the slack over every bump) Bad news is that the cotter pins fused themselves inside the thru-bolt. Assume castlated nut and pin are used for a good reason. Short of trying to drill the pins out, would an automotive grade washer and lock washer be enough insurance to prevent nut backing off?
Long post for a minor problem but wouldn't want one of these popping off at 70 mph. Thanks for any thoughts.
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Post by rorafan on Jan 27, 2015 19:36:31 GMT -6
I'd either try to pound them out with a nail or punch, or drill out what's left and use a new pin. I've had to pound out rusted pins before here in Minn. - couple were tough but they always came out.
Agree that there's a reason behind what they did there.
Good luck!
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tigger
Administrator 
Posts: 2,844 
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Jan 28, 2015 0:53:56 GMT -6
...Short of trying to drill the pins out, would an automotive grade washer and lock washer be enough insurance to prevent nut backing off? Hard to say. If you're like me, you know you'll be under there checking the torque on that nut every other day, lol! Go on and drill it out. |
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Post by ohiobuckeye on Jan 28, 2015 11:14:49 GMT -6
Thanks guys. You reaffirmed what I figured was the right thing to do, just my lazy nature getting the better of me!
Rorafan; Along with drilling out the remnants of the cotter pins, I will also be removing the tip of a small needle nose pliers on one side and an 1/8" of nail punch on the other side! Arghhhh.
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Post by sall on Jan 28, 2015 11:31:08 GMT -6
MOOG Part # K660168 should be a direct fit. Though only listed for later models but the rear suspension is virtually identical.
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Post by ohiobuckeye on Jan 29, 2015 9:03:08 GMT -6
Thanks Sall; I'll add that to the parts list reference. If you're like me, you know you'll be under there checking the torque on that nut every other day, lol! Ain't that the truth! I like to think of myself as thorough, detailed or even persnicketty. But everyone who knows me calls me anal!  So I took the advise and spent another 45 minutes getting the car completely off the ground again. ( four jackstands, floorjacks on crossmembers front and rear, and stacks of short 2x8's just in case. Told you I am thorough!Drilled out the rusted pins and put in new ones. So now that I am an expert in end links/tie rods and car is up, might as well do the fronts! Fronts have no zirk so I assume they were the originals. Got the pins off them without having to drill 'em out and ran to parts store late last night and got new ones. 2 hours later I'm driving around with a much tighter feeling front end. |
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