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Post by ace22286 on Feb 26, 2015 10:56:18 GMT -6
I have a 98 Oldsmobile Aurora with the V8 4.0 Northstar Engine.
I have always had an issue where I put my key in and turn it and it hesitates (doesn't even make a sound) sometimes up to 10-15 seconds before it magically cranks. I have had the car for 2 years now.
The other day it finally decided it would not crank at all even if I left the key turned fully for well over 10-15 seconds. I put a battery charger on it and I put the key in after it charged up and it hesitated slightly but started on the first try. I might have gotten lucky. I thought maybe it was a battery issue.
Well yesterday it did it again so I threw the battery charger on it again hoping that would solve the problem and it did not. No crank at all. I tightened the battery cables to the terminal which is under the back seat and I tried cleaning my key and even used our other key and when I turn the key I hear a click in the back where the fuses or relays are or something but nothing from anywhere else.
The starter repair looks like a pain and I even had a shop refuse to work on it because it was a northstar engine. Is there something obvious I could be missing?
I am so not educated when it comes to cars so maybe dumb down your replies like you were explaining it to someone who has barely any mechanical knowledge.
Thanks!
Also as a side point the bank of lights that goes all the way across dash above the gauges is missing on my car. I can not find a picture or diagram of what they were at all so if someone could send me a picture or diagram I would appreciate it!
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Post by sall on Feb 26, 2015 11:17:45 GMT -6
Any "Clean Key, Wait 3 Minutes" warning on DIC or security light above instrument cluster? Battery holding charge and pass load test? Sounds like bad ignition switch though otherwise, but could be a couple other things(starter, starter enable relay).
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Post by ace22286 on Feb 26, 2015 11:27:00 GMT -6
Any "Clean Key, Wait 3 Minutes" warning on DIC or security light above instrument cluster? Battery holding charge and pass load test? Sounds like bad ignition switch though otherwise, but could be a couple other things. I dont have the black strip with the transparent warnings that go above the instrument cluster so I dont know what lights are flashing up there. I have a few on but can not determine what they are. I have hooked up a battery charger to the battery and had it fully charged and even tried starting it with the battery charger still on it. The panel on the inside says the battery is anywhere from 11.8V to 12.6V when I try to start it.
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Feb 26, 2015 11:29:13 GMT -6
The starter swap is easy, took me 30 minutes. Your shop shouldn't have a problem doing it. You take off the air intake tube, undo 8 bolts, and lift the manifold out of the way while you unbolt the starter. There are a few threads around here about it. There are ways to test the starter as well. If you're mechanically inclined, I wouldn't hesitate to swap the starter yourself if that ends up being your problem.
I had a no cranking problem, I thought it was electrical. It turned out the armature broke on my starter. Threw in a new one and bingo! Haven't had a problem since. It took longer for it to decide to crank, then it stopped after a while. It sat for a bit, I could get it to crank every once in a while but never reliably enough to drive it somewhere.
With the car not running, having around 12v is normal.
Sorry for your trouble, hopefully we can narrow it down!
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using ProBoards
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Post by sall on Feb 26, 2015 11:29:59 GMT -6
Gotchya. Holding a charge does not mean it will pass a load test. Fully charge the battery and take it in for a load test or they can charge it for you and then load test.
As for the panel, I would have to go out and look and see when I get a chance. To clarify though no cleny key msg on DIC?
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Post by rorafan on Feb 26, 2015 11:38:10 GMT -6
Holding a charge does not mean it will pass a load test. Fully charge the battery and take it in for a load test... ^^ This. My car started doing the same random 'turn the key and wait' thing last summer, though only for 1-2 seconds...but that time was increasing. Had the battery load tested and it failed pretty badly. New battery and it's been great for 8+ months now. It cranks & starts immediately, first time every time.
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Post by ace22286 on Feb 26, 2015 11:45:26 GMT -6
Gotchya. Holding a charge does not mean it will pass a load test. Fully charge the battery and take it in for a load test or they can charge it for you and then load test. As for the panel, I would have to go out and look and see when I get a chance. To clarify though no cleny key msg on DIC? Is DIC Dashboard Instrument Cluster? I am new to all this stuff but if that is what you meant I am not seeing anything. This is what my dash looks like with my key turned trying to crank the car. This information screen here goes completely off when the key is turned. But this pic is before I turn the key.
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Post by ace22286 on Feb 26, 2015 11:47:45 GMT -6
Holding a charge does not mean it will pass a load test. Fully charge the battery and take it in for a load test... ^^ This. My car started doing the same random 'turn the key and wait' thing last summer, though only for 1-2 seconds...but that time was increasing. Had the battery load tested and it failed pretty badly. New battery and it's been great for 8+ months now. It cranks & starts immediately, first time every time. But would my car not react like it has a new battery when I am trying to crank it with a fully charged battery that still has the battery charger connected to it and still charging?
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Post by rorafan on Feb 26, 2015 11:49:33 GMT -6
For the cluster, hopefully this is helpful
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Post by ace22286 on Feb 26, 2015 11:51:46 GMT -6
rorafan you are my hero with that diagram. I think i figured out that DIC means Dash Info Center BTW. I looked for this diagram about 3 times for hours each time but didn't know how to go about finding it. Thanks a million!
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Post by ace22286 on Feb 26, 2015 12:05:38 GMT -6
What makes the click noise in the back seat when I turn the key? Ill hear a click but nothing after that?
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Post by sall on Feb 26, 2015 12:10:53 GMT -6
Fuel pump relay and pump priming. Accessory relay.
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Post by sall on Feb 26, 2015 12:14:47 GMT -6
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Feb 26, 2015 12:47:43 GMT -6
DIC stands for Driver Information Center. Keep us updated on your progress! Testing your ignition, starter, and a battery load test are probably first on your list. The links that Sall has found will give you a great guide to follow.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using ProBoards
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Post by ace22286 on Feb 26, 2015 16:38:04 GMT -6
It's been very cold and icy and snowy here in the Southeast lately and so the past two days while it was so bad outside the car wouldn't even attempt to crank like I mentioned before but today it got up to 40 the snow melted and so I went outside just now and it cranked just fine with no hesitation so I have no idea what's going on or if the cold could have even been what was effecting it.
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Post by papacadillac1 on Feb 26, 2015 19:01:51 GMT -6
Had the same problems. The car would start after turning the key for a few seconds. Eventually the key would be really sensitive and I could shut the car off by barely turning it back. The car shut off while driving and I couldn't get it running again, but after a lot of searching I replaced the ignition switch(sourded from a salvage yard) and it solved not only the cranking problem but the speedometer which hadn't worked in two years. That ignition switch is the gateway from your battery to EVERYTHING. Check it out, I think there are guides on here how to do that.
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Post by rspelljr on Feb 27, 2015 16:59:27 GMT -6
Like they said before, most likely the starter. mine done almost the same thing and replaced the starter, no problems since
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Post by emarkay on Mar 2, 2015 19:41:06 GMT -6
Blow air duster in ignition switch. Isopropyl key and "pellet". Confirm battery cables are tight (need to lift rear seat). If possible confirm at ground and starter, too. if is starter, can get one easily. Any intermittents like this are usually an electrical "Gremlin" - resistance (oxice). If the "wiggle test" makes it work, remove, clean and tighten.
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