Post by Dan Wogan on Mar 1, 2015 20:47:06 GMT -6
Hey everyone,
I spent 7 hours yesterday painting my headlight housing black and thought I'd post a way too in-depth write up of how I did it. A big thanks to members pitt and oldsnut for their previous write ups on headlight painting.
JUST A WARNING, I may not have done some of these steps the same way others would (aka the right way), so please don't take this write up as an EXACT how to that you should follow to the dot, but more of a guide. Please use caution, your own wisdom, and a LOT of patience when completing this mod. In other words, I'm not responsible for any harm to your vehicle in any way. Still, be cautious, patient, and have fun!
WHAT YOU NEED
10mm socket wrench
Small flat head screwdriver
Any color spray paint (I used dupli-color exact match automotive paint)
Painter's tape
Painter's plastic/drop
Super fine sandpaper (I used 600 grit)
An oven (or a hairdryer if you're desperate)
Gloves (I didn't have any, would HIGHLY recommend using some)
Some kind of cleaner (I used simple green)
Some kind of adhesive (I didn't use any, more on that later)
Also, here's a link to an imgur album of all the images in case you don't want to individually click each picture link:
STEP 1
Unscrew the two 10mm bolts that hold the headlight assemblies to the housing in the engine compartment.
STEP 2
Disconnect the wiring harness from the assembly. First, pull the blue pin that secures the harness and connector together. Second, gently pry the little black tab out while pulling to disconnect the harness.
Also yes, I'm aware that that white socket that holds the assembly to the housing in the engine compartment isn't supposed to come out, but I'm not too worried about it
STEP 3 (optional)
Remove all bulbs/wiring by unscrewing the few bolts/washers that hold the wiring to the assembly, since you'll be putting these in the oven for a short time and could potentially damage the bulbs/wiring. I didn't since most of the bolts were too rusted/stripped and I didn't bother trying.
STEP 4
Remove the rubber weather stripping from each assembly. BE CAREFUL with the top three that look like buckles, and use care when pushing them together to release them. I pried them a little too much and one snapped. The rest you can just pull over the little plastic tab and can even use a little flat head screwdriver to aid them over it.
STEP 5
Remove the 6 "C-clips" that hold the plastic covering to the housing. Gently pry them using a small flat head screwdriver but BE ADVISED that they may fly off once pried enough, so hold your hand over them so you don't lose any. I also used a second screwdriver as a fulcrum when removing the bottom three for some added leverage.
STEP 6
Place the assembly on a cookie sheet lined with tin foil to ensure that the parts of the assembly touching the pan don't get "burned." Set your oven to the LOWEST POSSIBLE TEMPERATURE, especially if you were unable to remove the bulbs/wiring. The lowest mine went to was 170ºF and did not harm any of the bulbs/wiring. On the first round, leave the assembly in for about 8 minutes, just to get it hot enough to loosen the adhesive that keeps the plastic covering stuck to the housing. The assembly should still be warm to the touch, but not too hot that you won't be able to hold onto it. STILL, USE CAUTION when handling it.
WARNING: I highly recommend using gloves during the rest of this process, mainly because the adhesive acts like cement once cooled down, and will take FOREVER to get off your hands. I had to use simple green to scrape it off my fingers and I probably lost about 5 layers of skin.
STEP 7
Using EXTREME CAUTION, begin to pry the plastic covering from the housing. To aid in this, I used a small flat head screwdriver to "cut" the loose adhesive around the entire assembly. I also used a GENTLE, prying motion with the screwdriver to help separate the two. If the adhesive proves too stubborn to be separated in one go, place the assembly back in the oven for a few minutes to re-loosen the adhesive. I put each assembly in the oven a total of 2 times each to get the plastic covering off. Re do steps 3-7 for the other assembly.
STEP 8
Probably while you're waiting for the assemblies to warm up in the oven, or any other time you'd like, mask off an area to prepare for sanding and spray painting. Just a tip, do not do this in a tiny apartment bathroom. The fumes will make you silly and we don't want the spray paint job to be shotty since you're high on fumes. Preferably an open garage or at least somewhere with good ventilation, which I had neither of due to my living space. I did however have a fan, air cleaner, and open window, so don't worry too much about me.
STEP 9
If you want to keep the reflective material in each separate housing cup, mask off the area with painter's tape. Be advised, I spent almost an hour on both assemblies due to the curves/contours of the housing, so if you want it perfect, take your time.
STEP 10
As hinted at in the last picture, sand the reflective surface to ensure that the spray paint will adhere to the surface. Depending on what paint you use, you may not have to do this step, but if you have just general automotive spray paint then DEFINITELY do this step. Scuff up the surface just enough that it looks scratchy, don't worry about completely removing ALL of the reflective material or anything. The paint stuck just fine to the level of sanding shown below.
WARNING: At this step, make sure you sand ALL THE WAY to where you masked off the cups. I had some chipping when I removed my tape since I didn't sand quite all the way to the tape and the paint had no sanded surface to stick to. Didn't remember to take a picture unfortunately.
STEP 11
Mask off the outside of the housing so you don't get paint on the adhesive/inside the actual housing. Begin spray painting in LIGHT coats to avoid dripping from about 8-10 inches away in an even sweeping motion. Your brand of spray paint should have directions to help you with this. I did about 10 very light coats and got a nice, even result. Let dry for a least an hour before removing the tape. Depending on the type of spray paint you used, you may want to consider adding some sort of finisher.
STEP 12
With all the tape removed and everything completely dry, slip the plastic covering over the housing VERY CAREFULLY so you don't scratch the new paint. Be sure to avoid touching the paint with your bare hands so you don't get any fingerprints on it. Using caution, push the plastic covering and the housing together as much as possible, then put it back in the oven for a few minutes to get the adhesive loose again. I put each in the oven a total of two times to get the assembly back together.
STEP 13 (optional but highly recommended)
Apply some sort of additional water-proof adhesive around the housing to ensure that no moisture will ever get inside. Unfortunately, the butyl tape that I bought for this purpose was too thick, and the clamps wouldn't fit over it. So for now I'm just relying on the OEM adhesive to keep it water-tight.
STEP 14
Re-attach the C-clamps and the rubber weather stripping back onto the housing. Use cleaner to wipe off any dirt/stray adhesive that might've gotten on the plastic covering.
STEP 15
Re-install the assembly back into the engine compartment, making sure both bolts are firmly tightened. Re-attach the wiring harness and re-aim your headlights if you find it necessary.
YOU'RE DONE!
Here are some pictures of mine on my incredibly dirty car:
Hopefully if you decide to do this, you're as happy with the results as I was. If you've seen other pictures of my 'rora you'll see that I have black rims, roof, sideview mirrors, door handles, gas lid, skirts, and side fenders, so I thought this really added to the theme. Please reply with any additional tips or likely anything I've totally screwed up so others will have the best possible results.
Thanks for viewing!
I spent 7 hours yesterday painting my headlight housing black and thought I'd post a way too in-depth write up of how I did it. A big thanks to members pitt and oldsnut for their previous write ups on headlight painting.
JUST A WARNING, I may not have done some of these steps the same way others would (aka the right way), so please don't take this write up as an EXACT how to that you should follow to the dot, but more of a guide. Please use caution, your own wisdom, and a LOT of patience when completing this mod. In other words, I'm not responsible for any harm to your vehicle in any way. Still, be cautious, patient, and have fun!
WHAT YOU NEED
10mm socket wrench
Small flat head screwdriver
Any color spray paint (I used dupli-color exact match automotive paint)
Painter's tape
Painter's plastic/drop
Super fine sandpaper (I used 600 grit)
An oven (or a hairdryer if you're desperate)
Gloves (I didn't have any, would HIGHLY recommend using some)
Some kind of cleaner (I used simple green)
Some kind of adhesive (I didn't use any, more on that later)
Also, here's a link to an imgur album of all the images in case you don't want to individually click each picture link:
http://imgur.com/a/YtUAB
STEP 1
Unscrew the two 10mm bolts that hold the headlight assemblies to the housing in the engine compartment.
STEP 2
Disconnect the wiring harness from the assembly. First, pull the blue pin that secures the harness and connector together. Second, gently pry the little black tab out while pulling to disconnect the harness.
Also yes, I'm aware that that white socket that holds the assembly to the housing in the engine compartment isn't supposed to come out, but I'm not too worried about it
STEP 3 (optional)
Remove all bulbs/wiring by unscrewing the few bolts/washers that hold the wiring to the assembly, since you'll be putting these in the oven for a short time and could potentially damage the bulbs/wiring. I didn't since most of the bolts were too rusted/stripped and I didn't bother trying.
STEP 4
Remove the rubber weather stripping from each assembly. BE CAREFUL with the top three that look like buckles, and use care when pushing them together to release them. I pried them a little too much and one snapped. The rest you can just pull over the little plastic tab and can even use a little flat head screwdriver to aid them over it.
STEP 5
Remove the 6 "C-clips" that hold the plastic covering to the housing. Gently pry them using a small flat head screwdriver but BE ADVISED that they may fly off once pried enough, so hold your hand over them so you don't lose any. I also used a second screwdriver as a fulcrum when removing the bottom three for some added leverage.
STEP 6
Place the assembly on a cookie sheet lined with tin foil to ensure that the parts of the assembly touching the pan don't get "burned." Set your oven to the LOWEST POSSIBLE TEMPERATURE, especially if you were unable to remove the bulbs/wiring. The lowest mine went to was 170ºF and did not harm any of the bulbs/wiring. On the first round, leave the assembly in for about 8 minutes, just to get it hot enough to loosen the adhesive that keeps the plastic covering stuck to the housing. The assembly should still be warm to the touch, but not too hot that you won't be able to hold onto it. STILL, USE CAUTION when handling it.
WARNING: I highly recommend using gloves during the rest of this process, mainly because the adhesive acts like cement once cooled down, and will take FOREVER to get off your hands. I had to use simple green to scrape it off my fingers and I probably lost about 5 layers of skin.
STEP 7
Using EXTREME CAUTION, begin to pry the plastic covering from the housing. To aid in this, I used a small flat head screwdriver to "cut" the loose adhesive around the entire assembly. I also used a GENTLE, prying motion with the screwdriver to help separate the two. If the adhesive proves too stubborn to be separated in one go, place the assembly back in the oven for a few minutes to re-loosen the adhesive. I put each assembly in the oven a total of 2 times each to get the plastic covering off. Re do steps 3-7 for the other assembly.
STEP 8
Probably while you're waiting for the assemblies to warm up in the oven, or any other time you'd like, mask off an area to prepare for sanding and spray painting. Just a tip, do not do this in a tiny apartment bathroom. The fumes will make you silly and we don't want the spray paint job to be shotty since you're high on fumes. Preferably an open garage or at least somewhere with good ventilation, which I had neither of due to my living space. I did however have a fan, air cleaner, and open window, so don't worry too much about me.
STEP 9
If you want to keep the reflective material in each separate housing cup, mask off the area with painter's tape. Be advised, I spent almost an hour on both assemblies due to the curves/contours of the housing, so if you want it perfect, take your time.
STEP 10
As hinted at in the last picture, sand the reflective surface to ensure that the spray paint will adhere to the surface. Depending on what paint you use, you may not have to do this step, but if you have just general automotive spray paint then DEFINITELY do this step. Scuff up the surface just enough that it looks scratchy, don't worry about completely removing ALL of the reflective material or anything. The paint stuck just fine to the level of sanding shown below.
WARNING: At this step, make sure you sand ALL THE WAY to where you masked off the cups. I had some chipping when I removed my tape since I didn't sand quite all the way to the tape and the paint had no sanded surface to stick to. Didn't remember to take a picture unfortunately.
STEP 11
Mask off the outside of the housing so you don't get paint on the adhesive/inside the actual housing. Begin spray painting in LIGHT coats to avoid dripping from about 8-10 inches away in an even sweeping motion. Your brand of spray paint should have directions to help you with this. I did about 10 very light coats and got a nice, even result. Let dry for a least an hour before removing the tape. Depending on the type of spray paint you used, you may want to consider adding some sort of finisher.
STEP 12
With all the tape removed and everything completely dry, slip the plastic covering over the housing VERY CAREFULLY so you don't scratch the new paint. Be sure to avoid touching the paint with your bare hands so you don't get any fingerprints on it. Using caution, push the plastic covering and the housing together as much as possible, then put it back in the oven for a few minutes to get the adhesive loose again. I put each in the oven a total of two times to get the assembly back together.
STEP 13 (optional but highly recommended)
Apply some sort of additional water-proof adhesive around the housing to ensure that no moisture will ever get inside. Unfortunately, the butyl tape that I bought for this purpose was too thick, and the clamps wouldn't fit over it. So for now I'm just relying on the OEM adhesive to keep it water-tight.
STEP 14
Re-attach the C-clamps and the rubber weather stripping back onto the housing. Use cleaner to wipe off any dirt/stray adhesive that might've gotten on the plastic covering.
STEP 15
Re-install the assembly back into the engine compartment, making sure both bolts are firmly tightened. Re-attach the wiring harness and re-aim your headlights if you find it necessary.
YOU'RE DONE!
Here are some pictures of mine on my incredibly dirty car:
Hopefully if you decide to do this, you're as happy with the results as I was. If you've seen other pictures of my 'rora you'll see that I have black rims, roof, sideview mirrors, door handles, gas lid, skirts, and side fenders, so I thought this really added to the theme. Please reply with any additional tips or likely anything I've totally screwed up so others will have the best possible results.
Thanks for viewing!