DB Drive "custom" audio system

[cursed87]

First off let me post what I have so far!


Eonon 7" 2din navigation
DB Drive E7 EQ7 equalizer
1 DB Drive A6 2800.1(1ohm 2800rms. 2ohm 1400rms)
1 DB Drive A6 1200.4(4ohm x 4 110rms. 2ohm x 4 225rms. 4ohm x 2 500rms)
1 California 600.2(don't remember specs of the top of my head)*temp mid bass amp*
2 DB Drive K712D4(900rms each)
1 DB Drive S5-Cv2 6.5 components(90rms)
2 DB Drive pro audio 1.75" tweeters P5TW 4D (150rms each)
2 DB Drive pro audio 8" shallow mount mid range P3M 8C(135rms each)
1 stinger 1 farad cap
1 Rockford fosgate 2.5 farad cap
1 DB drive DBCAP10 10 farad cap(not hooked up yet)
Wiring..
1/0g to dis block
4g to all amps
12g speaker wire(to 8" sub's)
14g speaker wire(to 6.5 component's and Tweeter's)
All speaker wire is from Sky High Car Audio
8g pure copper speaker wire inside the box
4g from box to amp(4g to 8g adapter's)
2 sets of knukonceptz triple shielded RCA's(2 3ft. One from deck to EQ. The other from 4ch to 2ch)
1 4ch audiobahn RCA's

I am starting this thread only because I have started the custom fiberglass door panel's. I wasn't just going to post the equipment because what's the fun in showing off bought product's? Haha.

Here's what I have done so far on the "custom" audio install...

I cut pretty much everything from under the door handle and arm rest opening,but kept about a inch of the outer part all the way around. I did this to retain the factory mount's. I cut the door pocket down. Took 8" MDF ring's, hot glued them where I wanted(factory location but out a little bit and at a angle). Stapled fabric tight. I have already laid 2 layers of fiberglass on this side. Tomorrow I will flip over and lay more fiberglass on the back. Then I will be stretching more fabric on the back side to make a sealed enclosure. I also wrapped up the piece's where the door lock and set adjustments are, in aluminum tape and saran wrap. I have already laid 2 layers of fiberglass on these as well. I did this because while I have 2 sets of door panel's,I only have 1 set of those. So I'm hoping to get the same shape and retain the door lock and seat adjustment control's in the same area. I have decided to delete the tweeter mount's on the mold's. I will ether place the component Tweeter's next to the 6.5s or the A pillar's. I have 6.5 MDF ring's as well and will be mounting them on these mold's. Then I will fiberglass the molds onto the door panel, so its all one piece.(going to cut out the backing off the panel its self) I'm hoping I can mount the crossover's in the same area but its looking like there may not be enough room.

After I get the bottom half of the door panel done,I will be putting a frosted plexiglass with Aurora script on the flat surface that is towards the bottom. This will be lit up red.

The huge Tweeter's I have will be mounted on the C pillar's in the back. These are just way to loud to be placed up front.

I will be looking into adding a H.O alt separate from the factory electrical. This will feed 2-3 AGM batteries.
4/0g welding wire is in the work's. I will be running 1-2 runs of it from alt to aux batteries. I still got to do the grounding mods, so when I do the 4/0g that will be tackled with 4g. I will be building my own grounding block out of copper bar's. Same with distribution block's (2 much resistance in the ones you buy from the store).

Now to make y'all go......"ahhhhh why?" Haha. Once I officially own this trailblazer I mostly drive. I will be.....
..
Adding 2 more 12s and another 2800.1 or doing 3 15s. In order to do this I will have to build a wall. I am not taking my back seat out unless I have another vehicle that I know isn't going anywhere due to me having children.
I will be relocating everything that's under the seat to the trunk. This is also where amp mount's and a custom finish will be. I already have spec's for 4 of the 12s from db...the box spec's are tuned pretty low, so it should be able to do hair trick's. There's more motive behind this than just having a stupid system in my car. Just so y'all know! Haha. And its NOT just to go to competitions. For now tho I will just be focusing on my electrical system and getting everything "custom mounted"

I will be placing my EQ where the aux outputs and ashtray area is. I'm thinking about fiberglassing the center counsel/shifter panel and the radio/vent bezel together for a one piece look. Before I do all this, I need to figure out how many toggle switches I need and so forth.. Which brings me to my next idea. I'm thinking about looking into making the steering wheel control's toggle switch's. Since they are non functional because of the double din install. This is I can't find a nice aftermarket steering wheel. Can't find one even remotely close to something I'd consider. Has anyone tried installing a steering wheel from a different model car? Iv considered this.
Any ways I will be probably running 2 1/0g wires from the batteries to the bass amp's and 1 1/0g to the mids and highs. Maybe a little overkill but ima firm believer in u could never go to big or have to much wiring when it comes to serious power... Well once I get to a point to share photo's I will be posting the link to my Instagram. Like iv said in previous thread's, I can not post photo's from my phone :mad:

[cursed87]

Just popped off the replica mold of the seat/door lock control's and it came out perfect!!!

Let me say this is my first time creating a mold or replica. Man is this fiberglass stuff fun. Haha. Can't wait to mold a fascia for my retro fit project.

The bottom half of the door panel is completely dry, so I'll be reinforcing the back side today.

Might also mount the 4" MDF rings for the Tweeter's and lay glass on them also.

[sall]

Not too sure about tweeters in the rear. Equals no front sound stage. Otherwise sounds like a fun project. If I didn't have a three year old passenger most of the time I would entertain getting louder. He would rather listen to the exhaust though haha.

[cursed87]

No I got the Tweeter's from the components up front. I just finished laying the fabric on the top half of the door panel. (Doing one at a time because of the mess of parts laying around from the wrapping project). I know tweeter's are best to be placed next to the 6.5,so that's exactly what I have done. I will start uploading pictures to my Instagram when I'm in the body filler stage.

But yeah I think these Tweeter's being almost 4"s are a little to much to be right in your face. That's the only reason I am thinking the rear pillar's. I will NOT be feeding them 300w,so hopefully they won't be to loud. I could place them on my A pillar's and set the Gain's super low. All I know is....tuning this system with all the processor's and multiple amp's will NOT be fun. I wanna get the software to do it correctly. Tuning by ear may work for some, but the route I'm going with this build I just can't. This is the furthest iv ever went on a audio build. I also don't plan to do this much equipment in another vehicle again ether. So if I'm going to do it..... I better go big and do it right. Haha.

Sall, when I had my Silverado my girl's would always tell me to "make it go roarrrr". Haha. Gotta love the smile's little one's put on our faces.

But yeah I'm going to glass the top part tonight. The only removable piece's will be the armrest and window control's/vents. Also the door lock and seat control's.

I placed a order on some 4"x 8" plexiglass x4 and some red transparent film.

I have yet to figure out if I want to just lay the "Aurora" decal on top,inside or use the decals as a template and take my rotary tool and "etch" it in... Rather do the last part but man.... That's intimidating. Haha. On the other had I will have 2 spare piece's.. So I guess we'll see how ballsy I get.

[cursed87]

Ok so here's a update!

Relocated all of my door switches and the vent...they are all angled for the custom door panel look.

Layer the 4" MDF ring between the handle(lever), the original vent location, the 8" and the air vent access hole that meets the dash.

Mounted box next to the 8 for the 6.5 component crossover.

I'm going to make a flush/pocket handle with red acrylic on the inside to light up red.

Cut the 4x8 hole for the red acrylic sheet's that will display the db drive logo and the signal waves like the boxes have with aurora script down in the right corner.

I got translucent red acrylic round rods I will use to shape into the db log up by the 6.5 and its tweeter. I plan to have it recessed in using a PVC pipe moulded in. I will try to illuminate it will UV LEDs but if it shows purple I'll just use red LEDs..

Luckily db drives color's are red and black, so it matches my theme pretty well.

When everything's smoothed out,it will be rewrapped in the black pleather vinyl. (Not a fan of the smoothed and painted whole interior) I will try to form my own trim line's and wrap with the dark brushed aluminum vinyl I have.

[awehlage]

Where is this Instagram link for pictures?

[cursed87]

I haven't taken any photo's of my system or door panels yet...tomorrow I will start taking picture's and up loading them to my Instagram link!!I have swamped myself with multiple Build's as I run out of materials for one but have more for the others. So I've kinda neglected the door panel's for my projector retro fit and front bumper project's... I only have one layer of fiberglass on the door's, once I get to a stage where I can lay more, I will definitely share pictures of the door's. I'm trying to take my time as this is a huge project since I have to fiberglass new vent tube's and re wire switches to be mounted in their new locations. Don't worry though photos are coming soon.....

I will definitely take photo's of the equipment tomorrow and post the Instagram link!!

[cursed87]

I did not wanna do this.... But upon request here it goes....

instagram.com/cursed_outlaw/

Pictures of all of my equipment and a shot of the door panel in progress.... Be nice people...it looks ugly as heck right now.. Haha..but you get the general idea.

Also this amp is a BEAST and these sub's can't take even half gain. So I think I'm just going to run 2 of these amps to 2 orion hccas(also pictured). Each sub will receive its own amp at a 1ohm load. 4 db drive 12s can only get a 2ohm load... So no point in spending money on 2 more. Rather get one more hcca and get a higher SPL number. It would be cheaper in the long run since I already have one. I would much rather get some digital designs but I'm half way there with the hcca.

Again be nice please....the progress looks like CRAP HAHA

[jamezruiz]

May 11, 2015 18:41:35 GMT -6 cursed87 said:

I did not wanna do this.... But upon request here it goes....

instagram.com/cursed_outlaw/

Pictures of all of my equipment and a shot of the door panel in progress.... Be nice people...it looks ugly as heck right now.. Haha..but you get the general idea.

Also this amp is a BEAST and these sub's can't take even half gain. So I think I'm just going to run 2 of these amps to 2 orion hccas(also pictured). Each sub will receive its own amp at a 1ohm load. 4 db drive 12s can only get a 2ohm load... So no point in spending money on 2 more. Rather get one more hcca and get a higher SPL number. It would be cheaper in the long run since I already have one. I would much rather get some digital designs but I'm half way there with the hcca.

Again be nice please....the progress looks like CRAP HAHA

[br

Nice!! I'll be looking forward to the finish product!

[sall]

Good project. Extreme, but looks like fun!

[cursed87]

There's some old shot's for this thread!!


Got new but smaller Tweeter's to put next to the 8's






This hcca was a "welcome home" gift from a good friend.. He surprised me AFTER I ordered the 2 db 12s.. Which sucks because it's a $500 sub ..could have ordered one more rather than 2 dbs so I'm at a toss up here..lol.. Just thought I'd post pictures for y'all!!

Its ether 4-6 db 12s or 2-3 hccas for the Aurora..

Ideally tho, its probably going in the trailblazer by I itself. I got 2 2300w amp's I can strap together for power!!

I can't focus on this build much until it's not locked in the garage anymore.. So I got time. Lol

[cursed87]

So I decided to take a break!!

Well I scrapped the first door panel I started... It was wayyyy to much to deal with right now. So I started a new attempt. I believe this way is way better and easier.

First off,the doors will house the 8" midbass,6,5" component mid,1" pro audio elite series titanium tweeter, and the tweeter that comes with the component's. Since I deleted the interior door handles,this made it so much easier. The comp. Tweet is in the factory Bose tweet spot(a little cutting was required). Well the rest is explained in the pictures.

I wrapped saran wrap around the original panel/card.
Then laid resin and 2 layer's of cloth to get the original shape. You can use tape and a release agent to do this a little better. Then trimmed it to the bottom half of the panel. Reused the pocket part that went along the bottom(cut it up a great deal) this is from my parts panel's. I'm retaining the two screw mounts on each side and one of the push in clip's to help bond this when finished.

Then I laid out the MDF Ring's. After this I used spray adhesive to stretch the fabric over it(used a old cotton shirt). I have laid resin on the cloth n letting it cure over night.

My execution plan is to get this speaker pod as perfect as I'd like then glass it to the original panel, but only if its perfect!!










I don't really like the area the mid range driver's are located, but there's limited space. So I'm hoping the performance isn't suffered.

Also...This is to you car audio guy's...

I'm trying to stay away from phase cancelation. Now I know I run the risk running more driver's if the frequencies are not set right.

Now I may have already answered this dumb question... But I fear I won't have enough vocals or in my mind "mid range". So I came up with this crazy idea of getting a set of 4" coaxial's and moulding up on the top A pillar's (driver aiming at the passenger and vice versa).

I don't wanna sacrifice anymore SQ than I already have. With the midrange driver's in the area their at may cause me sound cancelation. So the crazy idea came when I thought on a possible back up plan. I'm going to already be running a hybrid setup here.(passive and active). I don't know how crossover set ups get along with full range driver's.

I guess worse case I try it out and I'm out $30 for the coaxial's,material's and a extra set of pillar's.

I would like your guy's input on this. I know most of you wouldn't have even go this far to begin with so I don't expect everyone to point me in a direction. Haha.. Oh for further reference.. I'm for sure getting a 3rd 12" and running it at a .67ohm load. If it doesn't go into protect from over heating(most higher end db drive amps have said to have been successfully ran under 1ohm) the rep I talked to said he runs his at i wanna say .5 ohm load but its for Burp's not a DD.

Anyways "IF" it doesn't go into protect. And it still isn't enough. I will be saving up for 3 more 12s (total of 6) and a 2nd 2800 amp after most projects are completed. Obviously my electrical will be taken care of before hand..

So keep in mind I wanna keep up with the lows as much as possible. Which I know won't be much..but a little is enough. Haha

Ok thanks guy's

[cursed87]

Here's more picture's! The previous picture's are of the driver's side. Here are a few more of the Driver..





Forgot to take a picture if the first inner layer,but this was a quick sand for the second layer.



There's probably enough there right now,but I might do a few more strengthening patches.



Just a mock up! If it all comes out right.... I will end up fiberglassing it to the panel. This is why I cut it a little short.

*Passenger side*



Saran wrapped..I went this route because it was fast easy and I didn't need it perfect. I cut this away anyways. This was just a base so I didn't have to use the actual panel an risk messing it up.

*note: tape and a release agent its best*



Once large piece of cloth with a second layer around the edges.



Driver shown with a quick layout.



Hand cut "pegs" to raise and help with structure to the mdf while wrapping it in cloth.

*note: I used coat hangers an wooden rod's for this step*




Hot glued on.



Here u can see that slight angle "up".



Just a plain old t shirt is all I used. This was just laid on for a picture.



I used a professional grade adhesive and started a the the MDF first.






I stared stretching it at the bottom. Here its flipped over the stretch the top.




Here its completely wrapped and ready for resin.




Resin is on.

There's my progress report! Haha. I hope this was a little better this time. I had the headphones in jamming out so I remembered photo's this time around. Ran out of resin unfortunately, so might be a week or two till I get follow ups.

I just have to get this done. Too much stuff laying around. So I had to take a quick break from my door's. Plus my buddy keeps talkn to me about car audio so I was itching to do a little something. Haha

[cursed87]

OK...so I ordered and received some more equipment to install... I will edit this tonight after I close the garage.

For this thread I got..

30' red 4/0 welding wire

More than enough 4/0 Lugs

16ton hydraulic crimper (I have the brute force terminal but don't like it)

And 50sq.ft. of 80mil GTMAT ultra!

Right now I'm just playing around with it on the passenger door..now I wanna lay this on the inside of the door so I have removed all of the bolts for the window tracking and all...I can't get it out of the top...the repair manual says to drill out the rivets on the top of the door... Is there anyway around this?I don't wanna drill them out since I don't have the tool and have never riveted anything before..

As with everything I do....I go over kill hahaha...so no I didn't buy this 50sq ft thinking I'd cover my entire interior... But gotta start right? Haha all of the original insulation on the doors have been long gone..so I'm hoping I can help compensate for this.

This is the most powerful system I have had yet n just might be the only large build I ever do,so I'm trying to get it right.

I plan on covering the whole car with 80 mil them with the most exposed area's ima reinforce w 110mil by gtmat...if it still seems weak I'll just finish off with the brush on sound deadener ..... Originally I was just gonna brush it then get the rolls later...well with that kind of application the mat goes on bottom of the brush or it won't stick....

Any ways..as some of you know that followed my other Build's, I fiberglassed my door handles and trim line. Now I knew from the get go it wasn't the best bet.. But I've been thinking about just how bad this cars gonna get beat up by just one hcca let alone 2...

This car has sounded the best w a system when I first got it(prev doctor owned) but now hahaha...god...these k7s do nothing but flex every part of this car and with pieces off this that n the other... All it does is rattle and slap n bang. Seriously never heard a car rattle so bad..now I remember when I drove it months ago w my system up I watched my front door's flex nearly and inch right by the area I glassed.

I hope to god the glass help's strengthen the door... I am fully aware that I just might be about to have a SPL Aurora BC of the other stuff I'm doing.. Sub's can very damaging. So here I am sharing my progress with you guy's. I love my classic only 2 thing's I don't like.....FWD... And there's no aftermarket world for performance. Other than that this cars my baby. If she wasn't I would a sold it once it was parked in my drive way so messed up I couldn't even jump it. Anyways ima get back to this!!!!thanks!!!

[sall]

You will have to drop the 4/0 cable down low into the plastic where the rest of the wire looms are versus just under the sill panels where it is from the factory. The 1/0 welding cable barely fit in factory location. The firewall hole will likely need to be enlarged as well. The 2K RMS rear stage system I have is great. No noises or rattles heard from inside or out whatsoever after meticulously going over it. Just bass. Those are just numbers until you find a source to power it all. A 220A HO alternator is not going to cut it. Going to have to move up to a custom machined case with CS144 front half mounts and denso internals. Will not cooperate with factory electronics(thermistor, DIC warnings). AFAIK from talking to several retailers early on.

[cursed87]

Sall thank you for chiming in..I have been waiting for someone to have some input lately..this is just a very quick response... When I come into night I'll go more in depth..

I am doing my tune up and actually getting ready to just do 2 runs of 4/0 in the trailblazer.. The poor aurora has to much electrical for a demo/daily..so I'm going to switch MOST of my plans on over to the SUV(cabin gain). I'll just use that for the SPL.. The Rora SQ. So I think ima cool it with the extremeness of the audio build.. I'm selling my 12s in a few day's.. Was supposed to be tonight but I got to much work to do to have people over.. I'm using the money from the 12s and other misc. Stuff I have sold the past few weeks and ordering the HDC318.. Wanted the 4" voice coil one..but that's a power hungry beast.. Anyways as far as sub's go... There's more than what db the to offer in the price range...Soundqubed is priced JUST RIGHT. I bet in a few years they jack up their price's.. So I'm going to give them a shot.. If I like them..I'll just do a mild sq system in the rora with 3-4 10s from the 3" voice coil series.. But its getting late and I need to get work done. I'll be back to add more! Thanks guys!!!!

[sall]

Gotchya. I am sure you will be happy with the soundqubed stuff. I am pretty satisfied with the two HDS312 I purchased. I hear,"Let's jam out!!" pretty often from a little dude in the back seat haha. Of course I don't crank it though in those instances. Just enough to satisfy him.

[cursed87]

OK so... I'm bored and would like to ramble on here. So do not mind me. Haha.

I have recently inherited a 2004 Chevy trailblazer LT inline 6 with 95k miles one owner and super clean(not a single issue besides little body damage that is minor). My car is down due to extensive work I currently found myself stuck in. I will not rush it to be done by winter(what I was doing).

Now since this is about the audio build of the car,here's why I'm here typing right now! I am a pretty hardcore audio guy that loves to jam pretty loud. Now I have a extensive inventory of equipment for the car already. There are a few things here and there I need to get,but for the most part its all here.

Here's where I draw the line and there is no telling me other wise! hahaha.
One vehicle will be setup more or less as a SPL set up.
While the other receives a clean mild but still powerfull SQ system.

For those of you that don't follow me completely..

SPL: Loud just very loud and high scores on the db meter, hair movement,body flex etc.

SQ: clean crisp and all of the component's work with each other to reproduce all of the frequencies that the music you play smoothly.

Here I am ...

Aurora:being completely revamped and modified as much as possible that's with in reason. So its already in 100's of piece's, but has room for any type of interior mod I would have to go threw to achieve the extremeness! This car is also a electrical playhouse,so option's are more limited to extensive work and deeper research.

Trailblazer:never been taken apart and everythings still in place. Basically like new! Its all stock. More cabin gain,option's to add more than one ho alt.,has a frame to ground to etc.

1 of 2 set ups will consist of at least 1 18"(2 if I have room) and a lot of power. If this is the Aurora.... No more back seat's. This will be walled. If its the trailblazer walled also but taking up all of the back hatch.

Lastly and MOST IMPORTANTLY! I want EVERYONES INPUT AND I MEAN EVERYONE'S on this one.

I am leaning towards the Aurora more SQ clean and just overall quality built like the car was built. Here's my ultimate idea for this one..

The back dash aka rear deck!!!

3-10" quality sub's or 4-8" quality sub's?

I'm going for compact clean tight sound with a fast response but still have them lows.

So I would like to start a pole of some sort and get any and everyone's vote on which would they like to see done to a Aurora. The sub's will be sitting on the back dash facing the rear window with the port's firing at it as well so it fire's into the cabin directly. The box will be built just under the dash and will be boxed off with MDF and the amps mounted on some racks. I will probably not run DB Drive sub's as they are NOT cheap with quality 8s ($150 each) or the 10s($200 each). I'm leaning towards SKAR audio,American Bass, massive audio (hippo). Or if I'm going to real do it.... DC's. As far as power goes they will probably receive the same amount of power ether way(around 2k watts).

VOTE'S!!!!!!!!!!

Across the back dash:
4-8" Woofer's
Or
3-10" Woofer's

[cursed87]

I have decided to use what I have and lay "one" run of 4/0 power wire in each vehicle. Ground 4/0 is on its way, I will run this from front to back as well(for the Aurora). I have all of the heat shrink,techflex and all the clean install Goodie's. I also have a 100ah agm battery on its way (for the aurora). I will also continue to lay the 50sq ft 80 mil. Sound deadner in the Aurora. I mean threw out the whole car. A rivet gun is on its way so I can pull out the window regular and fiberglass on the inside of the handle I smoothed as well as laying more sound deadner. So nothing has changed besides the size of the woofer's and the placement. I will get picture's up as soon as I can! Thank you so much for reading this guy's and remember PLEASE vote!!!!!

[cursed87]

Just want to share some updated material pictures.

Haven't worked on the car since the panel work. (sigh). Think its back to the drawing board ONCE AGAIN. This has become a pure project build and will be a loonnnnng process!!! Its gonna be heartbreaking to not have her on the road for sometime, BUT I'm not letting her go. Don't think this will be a daily like she once was. I just want to take my sweet time and get her done RIGHT!!

I want to thank everyone on this forum for all of the respect and help threw out this build. This community or group rather is probably the best I have came across in the automotive world!!!!!!!



GTMAT ULTRA 80 Mil. 50 sq ft



25' 4/0 black welding cable (left)
30' 4/0 red welding cable (right)



Close. Up



Sky high car audio 2/0 to 1/0 single and dual adapter's (x2 each) *more to come*

*note SHCA 2/0 is over sized and true 4/0 fits snug*







1" techflex(red)*black is on its way*



1" heat shrink over wire and tech flex



4/0(left) compared to 1/0 streetwires(right)



4/0 lugs(x20)*black box full of spade terminal's*



Fused distribution block (for miscellaneous wiring)



Mini bus bar's ( miscellaneous wiring)



100ah powerstar agm battery(still have to order a couple more)

[cursed87]

2 sheets of ¾" 4'x8' MDF

Random shots:



Orion HCCA 15.2 weight








DB drive shallow mount 8" basket





1.75" super tweeter vs 1" super tweeter



1 of many Miscellaneous boxes of random stuff (speaker wire,relays,MDF rings,acrylic sheet's,Tweeter's and fuse's)

[cursed87]

I'm about to run my 4/0 as soon as I find a damn spot to get threw the fire wall. Ugh. Now I want to do everything properly here. Alt to battery +.. Alt to battery -? Block to factory ground? I know I'm missing at least 2 things here as I've read before, its really like a "big 5".. Someone chime in please!

[awehlage]

Here's what I did on my car:

1. Alternator to Front Fuse Block - Positive (1/0 ga)
2. Alternator to Front Factory Chassis - Ground (2/0 ga)
3. Alternator Bracket (engine block) to Front Factory Chassis - Ground (2/0 ga)
4. Starter to Front Fuse Block - Positive (1/0 ga)
5. Battery to Front Fuse Block - Positive (1/0 ga)
6. Battery to Rear Fuse Block - Positive (1/0 ga)
7. Battery to Rear Factory Chassis - Ground (2/0 ga)

*This is for my 2001 and its both the charging and starting circuit. Look at Sall's build: aurorah.proboards.com/thread/28474/audio-electrical-upgrade-progress?page=1

[sall]

Positive Runs:

- Battery Positive to Underhood Junction through OEM firewall location
- Underhood Junction to Alternator Positive
- Underhood Junction to Starter
- Underhood Junction to Front Fuse Distribution Block
**Battery to Aux Battery with Isolation Solenoid**


Ground Runs(All one gauge larger than positive runs, in my case 2/0)

- Battery Ground to Factory Chassis Location
- Factory Chassis Ground by Fuse Block to Alternator Bolt
- Alternator Case to Subframe
- Extra Grounding Kit Also Installed(see stickies)
**Battery to Aux Battery**
**Aux Battery to Chassis**

I think that is it.

[cursed87]

Thanks Andrew and Sall!! That gives me a great guide to go by.

Few more quick questions about ground's,

1.)Will I gain anything from running a ground from battery to alt bracket? I have read on a few audio forums this has helped with voltage drop.(would like a opinion from some that have the same vehicles).

2.) Since I have 4/0, and it will be fairly difficult to find any bigger for a reasonable price. Should I double my ground's? Basically (2) 4/0.

3.) Grounding kit:Sall do you think 4g has any improvements vs 8g?


BTW I ordered 25ft of black assuming it is best to run a ground front to back. So ether way I have enough. I'm waiting to do x amount of runs in the Aurora before I do a run in the trailblazer. Also, I do not plan to "replace" my factory wire's unless needed!

Again thank you guy's so much!

-Chris

[sall]

1.) Can't say it will help anything, it won't hurt though. If you have the cable and the room to run it cleanly.
2.) Wouldn't worry about it honestly. As long as the ground are not smaller gauge.
3.) I used leftover 4 OFC gauge from a previous install IRRC.

I don't have any problems with voltage drop with my current setup.

[awehlage]

Hey Chris, since I have a 2G this may not pertain to you exactly, however, I could barely get my 1/0 power run to fit nicely from the battery to front fuse box using the factory location. I did remove the factory wire runs as well. The reason why I'm saying this; I am having a hard time picturing where you will be running 4/0 gauge while leaving factory wiring if you go along the trim panels. Not questioning your methods but I don't know how it's going to work running all that wire inside of the cabin and exiting through the firewall.....what's your plan?

[sall]

Aug 19, 2015 17:48:07 GMT -6 awehlage said:

I am having a hard time picturing where you will be running 4/0 gauge while leaving factory wiring if you go along the trim panels. Not questioning your methods but I don't know how it's going to work running all that wire inside of the cabin and exiting through the firewall.....what's your plan?

I sort of alluded to that problem earlier as well.

Jul 21, 2015 7:07:10 GMT -6 sall said:

You will have to drop the 4/0 cable down low into the plastic where the rest of the wire looms are versus just under the sill panels where it is from the factory. The 1/0 welding cable barely fit in factory location. The firewall hole will likely need to be enlarged as well.

The 4/0 will probably not fit in the starter location not under the OEM junction box. I would recommend getting another junction type stud mount. I had to trim the factory plastic box a bit to fit the 1/o wires branching out. Something like this would work but would prefer more isolation in a box.

[cursed87]

Aug 19, 2015 17:48:07 GMT -6 awehlage said:

Hey Chris, since I have a 2G this may not pertain to you exactly, however, I could barely get my 1/0 power run to fit nicely from the battery to front fuse box using the factory location. I did remove the factory wire runs as well. The reason why I'm saying this; I am having a hard time picturing where you will be running 4/0 gauge while leaving factory wiring if you go along the trim panels. Not questioning your methods but I don't know how it's going to work running all that wire inside of the cabin and exiting through the firewall.....what's your plan?

Well, I have the complete interior gutted,minus the steering wheel,factory harness and such...the HVAC module Assembly gave me issue's last night as I have to move my coil pack out of the way to get to the heater hose's. I took a break from this because, as always the last bolt was giving me troubles to reach.

So to answer your question Andrew, I'm aware of the factory wire hole being too small. There's no way to fit 4/0 threw there, even enlarged.

My plan...get the HVAC out of my way and carefully decide where I can drill threw the firewall. Of course I will be using rubber grommets.

As far as to the battery, I hope to run it along with the factory wires. There's plenty of room in this area.

As for the starter. I plan to just use ether my old streetwires 1/0 or get new 1/0 welding cable. I only will use the 4/0 for the grounds and audio.

As of the factory fuse box and junction. I'm planning on building my own distribution and grounding blocks with acrylic,copper bolts and the sorts (fully boxed) so these area's I might have to tweek with the same concept. I've been so stuck on the fire wall part that I haven't thought that far. Until it was brought to my attention thank you both!!!

My biggest concern, is fitting these lug's on my alt.

All of these issues I will deal with. Sometimes while pulling apart or searching for a easy route, I wonder what the hell I got myself into. Honestly this is what motivates me to do this. The satisfaction!

I'm on my phone so I don't know how to quote Sall on his comment's at the same time. Although I'm sure he'll read this as well.

Again keep the concern's and thought's coming! Brings good things to my attention as most of this is "learn as I go". Meaning I'm not a expert. Stereo's are nothing new to me tho. Difference is, this is my first Aurora, and the first everything new/all out build.

[awehlage]

I would have to agree with you that fitting a 4/0 lug on the alternator is going to be a little challenge. Did you get all the correct sizes for each bolt the lug will terminate to? I know some are 5/16" and some 3/8". Straight and 90• bends are also necessary to keep the install going smooth.

I don't see why drilling a new hole in the firewall wouldn't work! Passenger side is probably the best bet just to the inside of the original pass through? I was contemplating that as well as I struggled to get 1/0 through the original hole while keeping the rubber grommet from slipping and pulling through. Silicone spray and grease were my friends for that!

I wish I had more knowledge of the classic but the 2G isn't much different.