auroramadman99
Aurora Newbie
Every time I pass an Aurora on the highway, I nearly break my neck looking at it.
Posts: 11
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Post by auroramadman99 on Nov 18, 2015 8:19:56 GMT -6
Just yesterday I replaced the starter on my 99, when I put it back together and tested everything the new starter wouldn't engage just a click from the starter once and then it finally cranked after a few turns of the key and then the starter was still engaged after start up so immediately shut it down and after a min I turned the key and it started normally and let it run for a minute then I shut it back off and I turned the key again and just one click so I let the key return to the run position and after a few seconds the starter started cranking on its own and started the car and the starter was engaged after start up again so I shut it down and now it won't do anything when turn the key no sound from the starter the fuel pump and compressor still runs but the gauges are dead ,radio , windows , heated seats, climate control, dic, all dead except for the dash lights that normally come on at start up, any idea ?
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Post by sall on Nov 18, 2015 8:37:57 GMT -6
Sounds like ignition switch issue.
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skizo
Aurora Passenger
WOT ... is there any other way?
Posts: 278
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Post by skizo on Nov 18, 2015 13:55:42 GMT -6
Battery? I had similar issues with my Ranger recently ... replaced the battery with a high crank version, and cleaned all the cable terminals in the chain. Not sure exactly what fixed it, but I needed a new battery anyway, and no problems since.
* I also cleaned the ignition switch ... easy enough to do on that machine anyway.
Brings to mind the question ... can you test the starter before replacing the manifold and buttoning it up? Seems like that would be a good thing, as hard as it is to get to ...
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Post by sall on Nov 18, 2015 16:55:43 GMT -6
You can test starter without lifting the intake or test before putting it back on. Checking ignition switch is pretty easy as well. Links in the stickies.
Could very well be bad battery though or connections. Any auto store will load test your battery.
Why was the starter swapped to begin with though?
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Post by oldgoat on Nov 20, 2015 8:42:58 GMT -6
Sounds like the starter gear has an interference fit with the teeth on the starter ring on the flywheel and is hanging up. The solenoid on the starter, besides providing the movement that engages the gears, supplies the power to the starter windings when it moves the gear forward. If the starter gear engages and hangs up, power is still supplied to the windings. Haven't changed one on an Aurora but I changed many on old Pontiacs and Chevy's. There was a procedure that used an 1/8" Allen wrench and mounting shims to set the proper spacing for engagement with no hang ups or interference fit that would chew up the gears. This was due to machining variations in the block and starter housing.
I'd try loosening the starter bolts and moving it (if possible) away from the starter ring as much as possible. There's also the possibility the starter housing mounting surface is improperly machined or something making the starter mount at at a slight angle. There's also a possibility the starter has an internal problem that's causing it to hang up when the gear moves in either direction.
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auroramadman99
Aurora Newbie
Every time I pass an Aurora on the highway, I nearly break my neck looking at it.
Posts: 11
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Post by auroramadman99 on Jan 12, 2016 9:24:41 GMT -6
Here's an update the battery is good with the gauges and dic not working I tested every single fuse. I pulled the intake back off and jumped the starter and it turns the engine just fine. Then I connected a probe to the battery and tried jumping the starter through the crank fuse and it started to crank but quit and kept blowing the crank fuses after that. One question I have is when you unlock the car and get in the security light will flash until I turn the key on and it stops when I attempt to start it all the dash lights come on like normal but the gauges have no power or the radio or windows or dic or hvac controls and of course no start
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Jan 12, 2016 21:01:12 GMT -6
You won't have power to anything but lights while you're cranking it. That's normal. Windows should work with key on, engine off however. DIC should as well, I believe. At the very least it you should have your radio and windows and such with the key in the "accessory" position.
If it will crank fine with power directly applied but not through the ignition then it sounds like you have a pretty good short somewhere. If it's not the fuse it has to be upstream of that. I don't recall if there are any relays or solenoids besides the one on the starter, but I'll check the FSM and let you know what I find. Hopefully it's a relay and not a short, because those are harder to find!
Sall also brings up a good point. It could very well be the ignition switch. If you don't have lights and windows and stuff in the accessory position that implies a problem beyond the starter. I had my starter go out and I couldn't figure out the problem for the longest time but everything worked fine, even climate control. It just wouldn't crank.
Put the key in accessory and see if your windows/hvac will work. If they won't, I would tend to think it isn't the starter especially if you've tested it by applying direct power and it turns fine. I would check the ignition (or just swap it out for testing pruposes) to see if that's your issue.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 4 via the ProBoards app
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Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
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Post by Randy T. on Jan 12, 2016 22:51:47 GMT -6
X3 test your ignition switch, I didn't listen when people told me, because I didn't know what it was at the time, my Aurora was broke down 6 months, bad ignition switch. Ignition lock cylinder is where your key goes in, the ignition switch it behind the lock cylinder and controls power to everything, 2 different parts. I lost my DIC, theft light was flashing, it would crank but not start, eventually after testing things, it also quit cranking. I thought it was a theft issue, threw a lot of money at it, until I finally listened to someone about the ign switch. I am not saying this is your problem, but test it to make sure it is not. Here is a link to a thread on how to change the ign switch, at the top of the thread is a link to my original thread with all my problems and eventual solution, and bobsblue posted a link or a how to at the bottom of the thread on how to test the ign switch. Ignition switch r and r.
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auroramadman99
Aurora Newbie
Every time I pass an Aurora on the highway, I nearly break my neck looking at it.
Posts: 11
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Post by auroramadman99 on Jan 17, 2016 13:45:38 GMT -6
The ignition switch was the problem all along. Thank you for the helpful information. I finally got to drive my Aurora after three months today.
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Jan 17, 2016 19:27:34 GMT -6
I love a win! Congrats man. I'm happy you figured it out! We're happy to help, it's what we're here for! It's always nice when you fix a problem yourself too and don't have to pay the stealership!
Sent from my Galaxy Note 4 via the ProBoards app
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auroramadman99
Aurora Newbie
Every time I pass an Aurora on the highway, I nearly break my neck looking at it.
Posts: 11
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Post by auroramadman99 on Jan 20, 2016 18:38:59 GMT -6
The other day, I disassembled the old ignition switch and discovered that the copper electrodes for the starter side were burnt up and it even melted part of the plastic shaft which kind of looks a cam shaft with lobes on it that pushes the electrodes together at each key position.
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