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Post by derkach99 on Feb 10, 2018 8:22:07 GMT -6
Hello there,
Next week i am getting some transmission work done. Transgo shift kit installed, pcs, tcc solenoids and 20 pin harness wire inspection to address some rough shifts i have noticed from time to time and to take care of some emission related codes. My questions in I hear replacing the TPS sensor can help with shifting so i am considering replacing mine in the summer but is there any adjustment needed when installing a new sensor? I haven't found a clear answer yet. Another reason why i am considering replacing the sensor is the fact that when i accelerate, let say uphill, the car hesitates to downshift. I have a car chip i might take a look at the TPS voltages tonight if i am able to do so.
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Post by Marc on Feb 10, 2018 10:16:48 GMT -6
If you have a 4.0, no adjustment is necessary. (pg. 6-1882, 2001 FSM). The same for the 3.5 (pg. 6-1422, 2001 FSM). Tighten the TPS screws to 20 inch pounds, and before removing the 4.0 TPS, disconnect the negative battery cable.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 10, 2018 10:21:58 GMT -6
Thank you for the clarification. I have the 3.5l model. Is there anything i need to do for the car to relearn the sensor if i replace it?
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Post by Marc on Feb 10, 2018 10:32:44 GMT -6
OK. No relearning is necessary for the TPS. Relearning is necessary only when you're dealing with the crankshaft position sensors.
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lazierfan
Aurora Newbie
2001 Aurora 4.0 owner since Sept 2000
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Post by lazierfan on Feb 10, 2018 10:33:16 GMT -6
No adjustments necessary.
However, keep this part clean. when this position sensor can't give accurate feedback to the computer because it responds slow or is stuck, then not only are there fast idles at times, but the transmission suffers with rough and clunky shifts, and possibly contributed to the ultimate rebuild of the transmission.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 10, 2018 10:47:29 GMT -6
She seems to idle just fine when not stone cold, stond cold starts has some whine to it but RPMS seem fine but i am just am curious if i should change it out of a whim since i am tryng to make the transmission happy. I am also wondering is my throttle body needs a new gasket or needs to be cleaned. Is this the TPS i should be looking at ACDELCO 213912, rockauto has it for $40 CAD plus $10 shipping.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 10, 2018 10:51:57 GMT -6
In terms of what i am doing to the transmission would anyone recommend anything else?
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Post by Marc on Feb 10, 2018 11:27:45 GMT -6
If you are going to be driving for performance, a trans cooler would be a good idea.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 10, 2018 12:56:51 GMT -6
Not looking for any performance edge here. If i take the throttle body off the car will i have to worry about coolant leaking out when i remove it?
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Post by Marc on Feb 10, 2018 13:07:41 GMT -6
Yes. According to pg. 6-1430 of the 2001 FSM, drain the cooling system before removing the throttle body.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 19, 2018 9:24:25 GMT -6
Well I got my transmission work done where there some bad grounds to the PCM Which is what i thought monitoring the codes over time. The tranny shop did not want to drop teh transmission since after fixing the wired the tranny codes went away and that the brake lines next to the transmission looked questionable. I told them that will be all for now since i had to work the next day. One other thing that was mentioned is that the font motor mount is bad that caused the wired to break. I am currently in the process of finding out which one it is. I do notice a jerk with the car when i shift into drive still but the transmission is defiantly better. I saw the other day however the code p1887 came up as a pending code the other day but Disappeared the next. I am hoping it says that way. I am hoping to get me engine mount ordered off rock auto as soon as i know which one, also should i go with a solid mount or hydraulic?
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 21, 2018 20:22:46 GMT -6
Is there any particular brands of motor mounts i should be looking at?
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tigger
Administrator 
Posts: 2,844 
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Feb 22, 2018 0:03:30 GMT -6
Delco
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 22, 2018 14:34:41 GMT -6
I am considering that option but that's easily $100 plus to purchase never mind the dealership. Are the original mount solid of hydraulic?
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tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Feb 22, 2018 16:35:07 GMT -6
Yeah, the Delco mounts are kinda pricey but they generally last longer than the cheaper aftermarket brands. I used one (Anchor, I think) about 5 or 6 years ago, it didn't even make it a year, haha. Ponied up for the Delco and it's still fine...
OE is hydraulic.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 22, 2018 17:00:45 GMT -6
10-4 that's what i was wanting to know. I was a bit concerned when rockauto has the acdelco one for $120 CAD and $20 to $40 for anything else.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 26, 2018 12:14:18 GMT -6
Well I ordered new acdelco read mount because that one was cracked to as well as my front mount($100). The acdelco front mount would cost me about $150 all in which I thought was to expensive so i went with this mount DEA/MRC A2897HD ($85). I am hoping that it will last for awhile. Let me know what you think. On a side note I got my new smog pump put in and new genuine EGR valve put int eh car on Saturday and I saw codes p1404 actual, p0410 pending come up as well as my usual every now and then appearance of p0717 pending. I hear that if a new EGR is installed is has to be relearned, any idea how you got the Aurora to relearn a new egr valve? Disconnected the battery?
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tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Feb 26, 2018 23:07:31 GMT -6
I'm not familiar with that brand mount, but hope it works out for you...
P1404 - Not aware of a relearn procedure for the EGR, but I can check the service manual. I did look up the code and possible causes listed are faulty valve and carbon blockage. You may want to pull the valve back out and clean where it seats. I think there is a EGR cleaning "how to" in the maintenance stickies.
P0717 - Longshot, but pull/inspect/clean the trans wiring harness connector. A loose connection or shorted wire in the harness can cause this.
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 27, 2018 9:04:03 GMT -6
I reset the codes since mid Sunday and followed the egr relearn process depicted at this link forums.edmunds.com/discussion/5667/pontiac/grand-am/pontiac-grand-am-dtc-code-p1404 just in case my mechanic forgot. I checked the codes last night after the drive home from work and there was no codes what so ever to report  . I just got those wires fixed to the transmission at the tranny shop, I hope its just a fluke. I am hoping the Aurora is nice to me for at least full on codes until after Friday when i have my etest. |
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tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
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Post by tigger on Feb 27, 2018 22:41:03 GMT -6
^That's a nifty little trick, haha! I've never heard of it before now, good to know.
And hey, good luck on your emissions test!
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Post by derkach99 on Feb 28, 2018 13:01:05 GMT -6
I checked codes last night and still clear, ni codes at all! I had such a beautiful drive into work today with warm temperatures! Be carefull with that trick, i accidentially broke teh clip on my egr plug but it seems to suchion itself in there pretty good and thanks! it will be a good bday gift for me.
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Post by derkach99 on Mar 3, 2018 7:31:24 GMT -6
Well I saw pending p1887, p0717 and p0410 come up again when i checked my codes the night before my test to scare me however the check engine light has not come on yet and I managed to pass me etest yesterday, A nice birthday gift:). Once i get me front and rear motor mounts replaced hopefully this week i will phone back the tranny shop and see if they can look at those wires again hopefully under warranty. I am contemplating if i want to remove my throttle body in early April and give it a clean/ new gasket as well as change my TPS but i am not sure if the one i currently have on the car is causing problems or not.
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Post by derkach99 on Mar 7, 2018 11:59:34 GMT -6
Just an update, I got my front and rear motor mounts installed yesterday, transmission shift nice now:D. I spend close to $200 for the mounts as stated in my previous posts and cost about $300 on labor to install. I know the cost would be high thinking that the old mounts where the original they probably where terrible to get off. My mechanic told me that when i picked up the car as well as how he had some choicer words for the person who designed the 3.5l V6 because of the location of the started in regards to the sub frame should it ever need to come off. lets hope that doesn't happen anytime soon.
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Post by derkach99 on Mar 26, 2018 14:18:30 GMT -6
Another update here i was able to take a look at my throttle body while my mechanic had my air box out of the car and it looked pretty clean but i noticed a little bit of black near the bottom edge of the throttle body. When I opened up the butterfly valve all i could see was black so I defiantly think its due for a clean and air filter on the other hand looked clean from a distance which has been in the car since Halloween where i was the scary car mechanic handing out candy lol. I also purchased throttle body and MAF cleaner to make the job a little less risky.One thing i have noticed with WIX air filters for the car, most filters almost drop in to the airbox where as the Wix air filter has a much more snug fit when you put it in, is that better to seal the edges of the filter? I will keep you guys posted.
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tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
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Post by tigger on Mar 26, 2018 21:33:22 GMT -6
One thing i have noticed with WIX air filters for the car, most filters almost drop in to the airbox where as the Wix air filter has a much more snug fit when you put it in, is that better to seal the edges of the filter? Snug is good. You want all the air going into the engine to go through the filter, not around it... |
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Post by derkach99 on Apr 13, 2018 7:21:16 GMT -6
Hello all,
Just up update on my throttle body cleaning. I finished cleaning it yesterday, boy what a PITA it was to clean the carbon on the other side of the butterfly valve and getting the old gasket off as best as I could wasn't much different. I was not able to clean all the nicks and crannys completely but the valve opens much more smoothly now, no sticking. Now this is where some concern comes in, When I was shaving off the old gasket i accidentally took off a fine sliver of the mating surface as well as i was not able to get off all the red/orange from the previous gasket. I made sure that if there was left over gasket that is was smooth with the mating surface. I hope it wont leak. Also the hollow cavity at the bottom of the throttle body? It seems like some clear liquid goes through there, not sure what it is but it seams of a odd design there. When all was said and done i didn't end up changing my air filter because it still looked pretty clean (installed on Halloween). Driving the car is seems to idle noticeably smother and better throttle response, hopefully gas mileage will improve as well. Oh and i also took some MAF cleaner to my MAF to complete the job.
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Paulaurora
Super Moderator 
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Post by Paulaurora on Apr 13, 2018 8:10:18 GMT -6
That design to warm up the TB faster on cold starts.
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Post by derkach99 on Apr 13, 2018 8:27:27 GMT -6
That design to warm up the TB faster on cold starts. Oh very cool I take it that's coolant in there? Also do you think i have to worry at all about leaks? |
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Paulaurora
Super Moderator
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Post by Paulaurora on Apr 13, 2018 8:46:31 GMT -6
Correct coolant is passing there. if gasket is seating good should be no leaks.
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Post by derkach99 on Apr 13, 2018 9:04:45 GMT -6
Correct coolant is passing there. if gasket is seating good should be no leaks. I think it did. If the coolant leaks i should be able to smell it. Also if the carbon built up inside the engine tends to be wet/oil it you push your finger into it is that bad? |
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. I just got those wires fixed to the transmission at the tranny shop, I hope its just a fluke. I am hoping the Aurora is nice to me for at least full on codes until after Friday when i have my etest. 
