Post by motbooz on Nov 17, 2007 22:54:24 GMT -6
After having done much research on this site, I came to the conclusion that it was time to change my transmission fluid.
Here are the particulars for my Aurora:
1996 Autobahn
78,000 Miles
Moved directly to Georgia after it's Michigan birth
Learned from my mechanic that my fluid was 'foaming'
The manual and others advise that there is no need to undertake this simple procedure unless the car is driven under regular stop and go conditions (like a taxicab) and in climates where temperatures regularly exceed 90 degrees. And, although you may hear arguments to the contrary, regular periodic changing of the fluid (35K or 50K intervals) would seem to be a worthy effort for extending the life of your transaxle.
Here's what you will need:
10mm socket wrench
Drain pan
Butcher paper (or other underlayment) for spills/splatter
Ramps and chocks
6-8 quarts synthetic fluid (Dexron III or Dexron VI)
Long neck filler funnel
Mechanics gloves
Safety glasses
Here's the procedure:
1. Warm the car to full operating temperature (200 degrees) by taking her for a quick ride.
2. Park her on a level surface, and while she is running and with foot firmly on the brake pedal, take the transmission through the entire gear sequence, pausing the shifter at each gear for 3-5 seconds.
3. With the car in park, let it sit running for 3-5 minutes and do a fluid level check (gloves help to avoid discomfort when pulling the dipstick).
Note: if your level is in the cross-hatched section (the hot level check) you can anticipate draining about 8 quarts so have a drain pan with the appropriate volume.
4. Drive the car onto the ramps and chock the rear wheels.
---->Image 1: Front driver's side wheel on the ramp
----->Image 2: Rear's driver's side wheel chocked
5. Position underlayment under the front end to collect overspill and splatter and ready your drainpan.
6. Wearing gloves and safety glasses -- the fluid will be hot! -- loosen 4-6 bolts at one of the rear pan corners. Caution, fluid will start draining over the loosened bolts.
---->Image 3: The L-Shaped Transmission Pan
---->Image 4: The 10 mm bolts on the front (narrow) part of the pan
---->Image 5: Hot fluid draining through the bolt holes
7. Let the pan drain until the volume largely dissipates (approximately 10 - 20 minutes).
8. Remove the remaining bolts from the pan and firmly grasping over the lip of the pan, pull the pan off.
Note: The pan will still have several ounces of fluid, so be mindful to not create too much of a mess. Additionally, the pan may require some force to remove, promoting splatter.
Caution: If the gasket remains attached to the transmission, DO NOT use sharp tools (i.e. screwdriver or chisel) to free the gasket. This could create an weakness in the seal when the pan is reapplied.
---->Image 6: L-Shaped pan with gasket attached
9. Carefully remove the pan gasket from the pan, setting it aside. Clean the magnet and the inside of the pan. Set it aside.
---->Image 7: Cleaned pan with gasket removed
10. Remove the two filters and replace. These filters pull straight down and are easily accessible. Anticipate that fluid is pooled behind each filter, so have your drain pan under each when you pull them.
---->Image 8: Filter 1 removed. Notice the 1.5" diameter opening where the filter connects
---->Image 9: Fliter 2 removed.
Extra Credit: Using an 11mm socket, you may remove the drain plug for the side cover near the opening to the driver's side filter. This should drain an additional 2 quarts of fluid. Thanks to Aurorabrain for this additional procedure.
11. Check the area where the gasket will be refit and clean off any dirt, fluid or debris.
12. With a bolt through both the pan and the gasket, finger tighten the bolt into the hole. The gasket has two tabs that fit into the transmission - be careful to line those up. It is best to finger-tighten the bolts closest to these tabs first. Finger tighten the rest of the bolts.
13. Bolt torquing procedure per shop manual:
As per the request, the oil & filter R&R for the 4T80E from the 2001 shop manual..........................................................
14. Put in 6-7 quarts of Dexron III transmission fluid (or Dexron XI) and repeat steps 1-3 adding fluid until you have reached the right 'hot' level. Be careful to not overfill.
15. Clean up and you're done.
The entire procedure should take no more than 90 minutes and is really simple to do.
Here are the particulars for my Aurora:
1996 Autobahn
78,000 Miles
Moved directly to Georgia after it's Michigan birth
Learned from my mechanic that my fluid was 'foaming'
The manual and others advise that there is no need to undertake this simple procedure unless the car is driven under regular stop and go conditions (like a taxicab) and in climates where temperatures regularly exceed 90 degrees. And, although you may hear arguments to the contrary, regular periodic changing of the fluid (35K or 50K intervals) would seem to be a worthy effort for extending the life of your transaxle.
Here's what you will need:
10mm socket wrench
Drain pan
Butcher paper (or other underlayment) for spills/splatter
Ramps and chocks
6-8 quarts synthetic fluid (Dexron III or Dexron VI)
Long neck filler funnel
Mechanics gloves
Safety glasses
Here's the procedure:
1. Warm the car to full operating temperature (200 degrees) by taking her for a quick ride.
2. Park her on a level surface, and while she is running and with foot firmly on the brake pedal, take the transmission through the entire gear sequence, pausing the shifter at each gear for 3-5 seconds.
3. With the car in park, let it sit running for 3-5 minutes and do a fluid level check (gloves help to avoid discomfort when pulling the dipstick).
Note: if your level is in the cross-hatched section (the hot level check) you can anticipate draining about 8 quarts so have a drain pan with the appropriate volume.
4. Drive the car onto the ramps and chock the rear wheels.
---->Image 1: Front driver's side wheel on the ramp
----->Image 2: Rear's driver's side wheel chocked
5. Position underlayment under the front end to collect overspill and splatter and ready your drainpan.
6. Wearing gloves and safety glasses -- the fluid will be hot! -- loosen 4-6 bolts at one of the rear pan corners. Caution, fluid will start draining over the loosened bolts.
---->Image 3: The L-Shaped Transmission Pan
---->Image 4: The 10 mm bolts on the front (narrow) part of the pan
---->Image 5: Hot fluid draining through the bolt holes
7. Let the pan drain until the volume largely dissipates (approximately 10 - 20 minutes).
8. Remove the remaining bolts from the pan and firmly grasping over the lip of the pan, pull the pan off.
Note: The pan will still have several ounces of fluid, so be mindful to not create too much of a mess. Additionally, the pan may require some force to remove, promoting splatter.
Caution: If the gasket remains attached to the transmission, DO NOT use sharp tools (i.e. screwdriver or chisel) to free the gasket. This could create an weakness in the seal when the pan is reapplied.
---->Image 6: L-Shaped pan with gasket attached
9. Carefully remove the pan gasket from the pan, setting it aside. Clean the magnet and the inside of the pan. Set it aside.
---->Image 7: Cleaned pan with gasket removed
10. Remove the two filters and replace. These filters pull straight down and are easily accessible. Anticipate that fluid is pooled behind each filter, so have your drain pan under each when you pull them.
---->Image 8: Filter 1 removed. Notice the 1.5" diameter opening where the filter connects
---->Image 9: Fliter 2 removed.
Extra Credit: Using an 11mm socket, you may remove the drain plug for the side cover near the opening to the driver's side filter. This should drain an additional 2 quarts of fluid. Thanks to Aurorabrain for this additional procedure.
11. Check the area where the gasket will be refit and clean off any dirt, fluid or debris.
12. With a bolt through both the pan and the gasket, finger tighten the bolt into the hole. The gasket has two tabs that fit into the transmission - be careful to line those up. It is best to finger-tighten the bolts closest to these tabs first. Finger tighten the rest of the bolts.
13. Bolt torquing procedure per shop manual:
14. Put in 6-7 quarts of Dexron III transmission fluid (or Dexron XI) and repeat steps 1-3 adding fluid until you have reached the right 'hot' level. Be careful to not overfill.
15. Clean up and you're done.
The entire procedure should take no more than 90 minutes and is really simple to do.
