|
Post by erw38 on Aug 2, 2004 22:35:55 GMT -6
Great picture, now I know what to do if my FPR ever goes! Do I at least get royalties?
|
|
dred98
Aurora Driver
Posts: 470
|
Post by dred98 on Aug 3, 2004 6:23:37 GMT -6
Do I at least get royalties? Yes, now we'll call you "Your Majesty". OK? ;D
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Aug 3, 2004 10:26:23 GMT -6
Finally, the respect I desearve ;D
|
|
|
Post by tedhontz on Aug 3, 2004 13:47:45 GMT -6
ok, i FINALLY got my FPR today. It cost me $95 for one at NAPA! Advance was $105 and one week to order plus $7.50 shipping. Autozone was $85 plus $7.50 shipping and one week to order. Napa was $95 plus no shipping and one day to order.
Ok, so now I have it and i look at the excellent pic by erw38. My new part has all the o-rings and exc...but it also has a gold/brass colored metal type clip in the shape of a C. Where does this go?
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Aug 3, 2004 16:26:46 GMT -6
That is the compression fitting. It goes over the FPR as well as the black housing clipping them both together. I'll see if I can take a picture of it when I get home from work today.
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Aug 3, 2004 19:14:10 GMT -6
The compression fitting gits over the FPR clamping the FPR to the black housing. If you look where the FPR sits, you will see 2 or 3 (can't remember the correct number) places that the plastic will jut out a bit. Make sure the "clamp" fits over those plastic fins as well as the metal lip of the FPR. I didn't actually pop my hood, but hope this helps.
|
|
|
Post by tedhontz on Aug 3, 2004 21:06:36 GMT -6
hmmm.....im confused. so i put on the FPR, then sit the compression fitting on top of that and then use the metal clamp to hold it on? I put the new FPR on. I turned ignition. It poured fuel everywhere. I tried again. same thing. I did notice that the new part came assembled in the box with the black plastic ring at top and the blue o-ring under it. when i reversed them, opposite of your pic, it didn't spray fuel at all. the blue o-ring probably moved up anyways over the black plastic ring after i pushed it on. Its on, not leaking, but doesn't have the compression fitting on it. I've drove about 10 miles with no problems, but i want it done right so i don't blow it up. Drove to father-in-law's house with it to try and STILL find the oxygen sensors. Since mine is a 95, it only has two, not four. We took off the plastic housing on top of radiator and finally looked down to see on of them. We THINK we have to take off coil packs to get to the other one. Im stumped on that too. But i want to thank you for all the help so far, i appreciate it and hope someday i can repay the favor.
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Aug 3, 2004 21:22:40 GMT -6
I'll try and take a picture of the compression fitting on the car tomorow.
|
|
|
Post by RADEoN on Aug 4, 2004 0:01:44 GMT -6
This is a topic that seems to have a lot of Aurora users interested BUT finding the cause is a mystery. My situation is that after the car is up to temperature and I full stop, it stalls. If I shift out of Drive or let up on the brakes just a little before the stall is complete, it recovers. I thought it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) because when I disconnected it the problem appeared to go away. I bought a new one and the problem was still there. I had the car at Oldsmobile 4 times at lots of $$. They changed the computer and still stalls. They said everything seemed OK and they threw up their hands and gave up. Also took it to 3 shops and they too have no clue! Right now I am operating with the IAC valve disconnected and no stalls! I had to adjust the valve so during initial start up the car would run proper. Anyone else have this problem? I know there are a few I've chatted with over the past year. Otheres have other stalling problems, like when up to speed. adjust your IAAC for a temporary fix, try replacing the ignition coils too
|
|