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Post by lanceslambos on Jun 6, 2009 0:17:47 GMT -6
well i upgraded my stuff last summer. in fact almost a year to the day since i got my kenwood speakers and amp, but after 60 days it just quit working and this afternoon spent $50.34 to get it working again. come to find out it was hooked up out of phase. all i gotta say is man i missed my bass. freaking car rattling rock again woo hoo. and now i can't hear my new cat back exhaust lol i'm at 350 rms & 700 peak
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Post by cski15 on Jul 5, 2009 11:27:09 GMT -6
Sorry guys but dk58 did the audio the best...it looks really professional.
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Post by lanceslambos on Sept 21, 2009 16:33:32 GMT -6
it finally arrived. i bought this Kenwood 400 watt amp 2 months ago off ebay. it's a discontinued model but still has a 1 year warranty, as it's still brand new right out of the box. this will drive my Kenwood 6x9's i wanted to have it hooked up in time for the fall meet Oct 2-4 but now i don't have the time nor money to do so. however i will mount it to the box to appear hooked up for the show
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Post by bigbryan on Dec 4, 2009 21:06:58 GMT -6
I can't wait, going for the Focal ployglass upgrade. It's going to be 6.5 component in the front doors and 6.5 coaxial at the back.
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Post by bigbryan on Dec 5, 2009 6:36:57 GMT -6
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Post by bigbryan on Dec 5, 2009 7:06:23 GMT -6
my audio/video upgrades:
Eclipse AVX-5000 - Headunit $650.00 Western Digital HD Media Player $110.00 Western Digital Passport 500gb Hard Drive $89.99 Focal Ployglass 165 VR - Front conponent 6.5 $400 Focal Ployglass 165 CVX - Rear coaxial 6.5 $220 MTX 6000 10" subs x2 install in a bandpass box $350 JBL GTO 75.4 4 channel amp $250 JBL GTO 301.1 mono amp $250 Optima yellow top battery $189.99 Power inverter $35.99 Power bar $49.99
1 gauge ground 4 gauge power for battery 8 gauge power for amps 12 gauger speaker wire
last upgrade will be Eclipse DCU 105 for the optical and digital coaxial capability for audio
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Post by wyre on Dec 12, 2009 3:25:53 GMT -6
Removal of the stock radio... much of the plastics had to be removed to make enough room for the rather large DDin Pioneer Premier FH-P800BT HU. Work on the wiring harness... I did get the wiring harness that would allow me to keep my door chimes/onstar/DIC/stearing wheel controls. Here is the completed wiring harness, and the actual HU. This required much cursing and smoking of hookah ... Stock radio didnt work properly, and was missing the lower control knob when I purchased my Aurora. After starting the installation we realized that we didnt have an antenna adapter, so I scavenged the connector out of the radio, and with the use of a bit of solder, and a short piece of antenna lead... I made an antenna adapter... this is the leftovers from the stock radio. The only thing left is to get the PAC SWI-PS controller working properly... A buddy of mine and I worked for several hours attempting to locate the correct wire to pull the databus off of.... finally we were both too tired to contnue.. If anyone knows what wire needs to be connected to... please shoot me an email/message/ or just post it up here. It was too dark to take a picture of the final result. I will try to get a picture posted before too long. HU: Pioneer Premier FHP-800BT $269.99 Wiring Harness: METRA GMOS-05 interface $ 78.99 Adapter: SWI-PS Controller $ 49.95 Dash Kit: METRA 95-2009 $ 15.95 Still trying to get the SWI-PS to function properly... at this point is is not working at all, and has been pulled out of the Aurora. Speakers: Front Alpine Type-S 6.5" component Rear Alpine Type-S 6X9 3way Sub 2 x 8" JL W7 subs Amp unknown at this time.
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Post by oldwino on Dec 12, 2009 14:37:43 GMT -6
^^^^ Here's a wiring diagram for 2002 model; The serial bus signal goes thru pins A1 and A2 of the radio connector.
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Post by wyre on Dec 12, 2009 14:55:09 GMT -6
Thanks oldwino! However... I hate to say it... I am not sure what I am looking at. I am a network engineer... not electrical.
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Post by hiphophead on Dec 12, 2009 20:09:01 GMT -6
Info courtesy of PAC website: You will only be using FOUR wires from the SWI-PS. Black, Red, Green, and Brown. Connect the SWI-PS \\\\\\\'s Green wire to Pin D8 (Dk. Blue or Lt. Green), 40-pin BLACK plug next to steering column of the above connector. This SHOULD be the DATA line. Note: I have not looked at the 2G pinouts for this connector to make 100% certain) Red wire to 12V+ Switched wire. Black to chassis ground or ground on the head unit. Brown wires loop needs to be cut in half and capped at each end. There are more details on programming the unit also via your aftermarket head units remote. please red further here: 76.12.243.71/swixprogramming/showstepbystep.asp?InterfaceChecked=3&RadioGroupPioneer=0&mmSearch=Oldsmobile&Submit2=Search+Vehicles&ID=284I hope this helps you out. Anymore questions/concerns please post a new thread in audio and you will get more hits! UPDATE: Here is confirmation the DK Blue wire is the one you need to tap into for your DATA connection. For further reference anyone who has an aftermarket head unit and wants the steering wheel controls to still work, I will have a fix for you soon. Save you money from not buying this harness above, but a DIY job that requires taking the remote apart as well as removing airbag and steering wheel controls wire crimping and soldering etc etc. Basically the idea is to use the remote circuit board but the buttons on the steering wheel will control the aftermarket head unit remote control. Going to be a long, cold, winter. Need to think up some projects!
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Post by lanceslambos on Feb 10, 2010 11:56:15 GMT -6
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Post by oldsmobiletexas on Mar 18, 2010 0:24:19 GMT -6
Took out the factory HU and replaced it with a Nitro 7 inch in dash which is a lower brand of Audiobahn but has many features i was glad to pay for like built in bluetooth for cell phone, ipod connection, mp3, mp4. But if you are going with single din in dash its a longer radio than most so either its going to stick out a little unless you cut wall out of inside of radio bay. What i did was buy a dash kit for a 87 delta 88 and modify rim around factory fitting so that it sticks out correctly, and so that my screen doesnt have to be some what facing down when it opens for clearance.
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fatjock
Aurora Groupie
Reality is an illusion caused by lack of alcohol
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Post by fatjock on Apr 1, 2010 7:44:55 GMT -6
Hey whats up? My system Is basicly a walmart special, but it hits dam hard. HU: Dual............................................ This looks like the unit I put in my daughters Grand Cherokee. Similar speaker set-up too. It's a nice unit for the price.
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Post by jprice90 on Apr 9, 2010 20:31:25 GMT -6
im thinking about picking up new subs, Kicker 07DCVR102 ..750.1 amp should be fine for a bit, what gauge wiring should i run?
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Apr 10, 2010 0:27:41 GMT -6
8 gauge wiring at least, but please bring those questions to another thread!
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Post by nickkirk on Apr 12, 2010 20:48:46 GMT -6
I'm running a dehp500ub pioneer deck.$200 Alpine type-s front and rear door speakers.$200 For my sub im running a Kicker CVX 10 with a zx750.1 powering it.$550 My reasoning for the speakers and deck where they were relatively cheap and provided pretty good sound quality. The sub is actually new I got it friday! I was running two Kicker cvr 12s with the same amp but wanted more room and a cleaner bass. Also that stock bose amp is still in there im to lazy to pull it out.
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Post by jprice90 on Nov 16, 2010 18:54:04 GMT -6
how difficult is the big 3 on an Aurora? never done it before
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Post by mmathers14 on Nov 16, 2010 19:39:09 GMT -6
1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring.
The difficult one is going to be the pos battery lead to alternator through firewall.
You should use at least 4 gauge wire IMO otherwise not worth it. Not sure off the top of my head what is there from factory. You don't have to replace you can also add/supplement the factory grounds. You could go as far as using 00 but that would be overkill. I don't know the specs of your setup so just speculation.
Try doing the strut tower and others mentioned in grounding mod thread and one from battery to ground and see where that takes you. Make it the medium two and not the big three or something more clever than that for a nickname...
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Post by zephr on Dec 7, 2010 18:38:23 GMT -6
Hello everyone, i have not posted for some time, busy times.
I have been debating for some time to install a car audio system that i have from my previous car.
The system is a, i know, Blaupunkt head unit with CD changer control, full logic tape player( i still play tapes from time to time), a 200 watt 2 ohm stable 5 channel amp, and brand new Nakamichi 6X9 speakers in original box.
The factory system still plays not bad, but at times when there is a bass sound in the song the speakers seem to boom rather than reproduce bass sound. My only concern is whether the electrical system in the car will be able to handle my audio equipment and that i will not experience any detrimental effects from the installation of this system.
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Post by kdogg2 on Mar 4, 2011 23:58:58 GMT -6
Never in my life have I seen a more F###ed up stereo than the 2g Aurora!!I found a picture of what appears to be a adapter plate on 2g aurora if it is can any one tell me who makes it?It was from a old post by olds 88 and might have been sold on Ebay but you cannot acess the link to it anymore to find out the manufacture or is it just the stock plate cut out?? Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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Post by robaurora01 on Mar 5, 2011 5:44:07 GMT -6
ebay sellers sell them
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Post by kdtravis on Oct 29, 2011 5:50:58 GMT -6
Car is a 1999. All I did was install an Aux connection for MP3, iPod et cetera. Cost about a hundred bucks.
Reason being the Bose system is awesome, I only wanted the Aux input, a clean install and retaining all factory features, i.e., redundant control on steering wheel.
So I bought a PIE GM-10 adapter from ebay, plugged it in to the CD changer plug in the trunk, ran a RCA plug to mini-plug cable to the front and voila. I found a nice long cable at a DJ supply store which I frequent because their cables are good and they can special order as well.
The installation is super cheesy at the moment - just fish for the wire between the seats and plug in. I'll put a proper jack in the dash as part of my lightbulb replacement project later on. Works like a charm.
One issue - the factory head-end detects the adapter as the CD changer and mine doesn't do that flawlessly. I returned the adapter under warranty and the next one did the same thing so I believe my headend is flawed. Switching from FM to adapter repeating a couple times always makes it work, but an annoyance. I have the same setup on an Avalanche and it works flawlessly as does a relative's, so, again I think it's just my headend.
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Post by renaldo0613 on Jun 27, 2013 0:29:23 GMT -6
Headunit: Dual headunit from walmart $90 Subs: 2 12" Kicker L5s in a sealed box Amp: Audiobahn A800T (2 of them) Wiring: I'm running 4awg I paid $300 for the subs, and the 2 amps. Caught a guy on CL getting rid of stuff to move to cali ;D
Definitley planning on upgrading my headunit to a pioneer navi/DVD or some sort. Also plan on upgrading speakers to kickers as well, and run a 4 channel amp to the speakers. I will take one of the amps away from the subs in order to put the other amp back there for the speakers.
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aaa96
Aurora Newbie
Posts: 2
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Post by aaa96 on Nov 5, 2018 21:08:03 GMT -6
Resurrecting this thread as I just got my first Aurora. I've got a '96 Autobahn Package in Arctic White, has the Bose premium audio that will be summarily and unceremoniously removed once the car gets through the mechanic shop vehicle inspection (that I get performed on every used car I buy), and any subsequent mechanical repairs are done in order to ensure a no headache experience with this vehicle. I have a rather large SQ (sound quality) system that I'll be putting into the car: Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P880PRS. I paid $75 USD (got it local off Facebook marketplace, person did not know what they had). These go for anywhere from 250 USD to 500 USD depending on condition, mine is MINT www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-P880PRSCD Changer: Pioneer CDX-P680 6-Disc changer. I paid $10 USD in an auction on eBay, these regularly sell for $100 USD. www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Accessories/DVD-and+CD-Changers/CDX-P680Tweeters: Ground Zero Uranium GZUF 60SQX. I paid $100 USD shipped off Facebook, these sell for 180 Euro brand new. www.ground-zero-audio.com/en/products/speaker/gzuf-60sqx.htmlMid Bass: Hertz DV 165.3. Using the midbass drivers from my Dieci 2 way component set. The component set sells for about $150 USD Subwoofer: Focal 40KX 16". I technically didn't pay anything as I got it in trade, but I traded roughly $500 USD worth of stuff in exchange. These were a mint at MSRP, and regularly sell for about $800 USD in brand new condition. Amps: I'm going fully active 3-way with the Pioneer head unit handling all of the processing. I will also be using separate amps for tweeters and midbass, and a matched pair of amps for each (Left/Right) as well as a monoblock subwoofer. Tweeter amps: 2x Alpine 3537 2ch, each one bridged for 160W RMS to each tweeter. I ended up paying $75 for both amps, when they typically sell for around $100 USD each. Midbass amps: 2x Alpine MRV-T505 2ch, each one bridged for 300W RMS to each midbass. Got these in trade, and tend to sell for around $100 USD each Sub amp: Alpine MRV-1507 2ch bridged for 900w RMS to the subwoofer. This will likely be dialed down depending on cone excursion when I model it in the custom box I'll be building. These range in price from $300 USD to $500 USD depending on price, got 2 of these in trade. I'll also be completely gutting the interior and enhancing any existing factory sound deadening material. The entire install will be done by me. I also have an aux cable for the Pioneer DEH-P880PRS, so I'll be shopping for a good portable Hifi player with a good DAC for playing back Flac media etc. Cash wise, I'm into this system for $410, and about $1000 USD worth of trade value. If I was spending cash to buy all of the components it would be in the neighborhood of $2700 USD, which consequently is about twice what I paid for the car. Other things I'll be doing to the car is window tint all around, lowering the vehicle a little bit, new wheels and tires, TOTL alarm system and a dash cam. Probably will be doing some minor body work to fix a chip on the hood and some other dings here and there, and fix some issues with the front bumper fitment, get a paint correction done. Long term plans involve a rebuilt motor and trans from Northstar Performance. The interior on this car is mint, there are zero wrinkles in any of the upholstered panels, no dings or scratches or faded silk screening on any of the buttons, instrumentation or controls. No rips or tears in the leather, the back seats look like they've never been sat on. The seat belt clasps look brand new.
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Post by keithj1170 on Jul 4, 2019 11:47:03 GMT -6
Hello fellow aurora enthusiasts!!!!! I bought a 1999 oldsmobile aurora a couple of years ago for $1,600 & also upgraded my audio system because the old system wasn't working really(just the stereo). I came across a pioneer touch screen at a pawn shop for $60 & bought new pioneer component speakers as well as pioneer 5 way 6×9's. It's a cleaner sound than before and I can't complain. Just waiting until I can grab a few more components & then i'm taking a road trip to see how my boy sounds humming towards Chicago.
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