Maintenance: Oil change writeup

[kobalt]

An oil change is known as a gateway to DIY automotive maintenance world. Chances are high that once you change your own oil you will catch the DIY bug and will be hard pressed to have someone else perform maintenance on your car. One the V6 Aurora this procedure can be done one of two ways, the o.k. way and the right way. Here is how to do it right:

** LX5 "Shortstar" oil + filter change **

Difficulty: beginner-intermediate

Time required: 45-75mins

Tools required:



- ramps

- jack stands (for safety)

- hydraulic jack

- ratchet wrench

- socket size 15mm

- filter cap socket size 75mm

- torque wrench (optional)

- oil drain pan

Parts required:

- AC Delco part# PF2129 oil filter or equivalent

- 5W-30 motor oil


Take the car for a 15min drive before proceeding



I recommend Mobil1 synthetic oil



Use gloves to protect your hands - the oil will be hot



Ramps are steep so I used wooden boards to prevent the bumper from scraping





Place the boards flush against the wheels





Take care to align the ramps with the wheels



Drive up the ramps with care and make sure to stop once you're on top



Undo the oil fill cap



I used a big piece of cardboard to protect my driveway



Top right - oil drain plug

Bottom left - oil filter enclosure



The drain plug is in front of the oil pan - a bad design. In order to drain all of the oil from the oil pan one must raise the rear end of the car



No hardpoints exist in the rear to safely jack up the Aurora





The rearmost edge of the driver/passenger side rear crossmember is the most suitable place for the jack





Lifting the Aurora off center produces little flex and shows the impressive stiffness of the G-body chassis



Place jack stands under the lift hardpoints for safety



That's better - the level is now biased towards the drain plug



Place the drain pan under the car and use the 15mm socket to undo the drain plug. Caution - the oil will be hot!



Do not drop the drain plug into the oil



If your drain pan is large enough now is a good time to undo the filter with the 75mm filter cap socket



Loosen the filter enclosure enough to drip the oil into the drain pan and take a break for five minutes or so





Unscrew the enclosure and take out the old filter



AC Delco vs unknown brand - much more surface area





Dab some of the old oil on the enclosure seal and filter to prevent thermal siezing



The oil pan side of the filer enclosure







Torque the filter and drain plug to 25Nm or simply hand-tighten



The relatively new oil is as dark as the old filter - a sure sign that the filter was not changed during the last oil change



Use a clean funnel to pour in the first 5 quarts. Top off after the oil change is complete.



Reset the oil life meter, lower the car and top off the oil if needed

All done! Time for the customary lager (or stout)!

Final thoughts: I sincerely hope that my writeup becomes helpful to some of you that wanted to change your oil but never had the courage to do so. It is not that difficult and believe me, it is a great experience.

This project was more complicated than necessary because of the terrible drain plug placement on the LX5 - WTF was GM thinking? Usually the drain plug is placed aft of the pan to ensure maximum oil drainage - the forward placement requires that the car is at least level to empty the pan.

The oil filter placement and design was excellent on the other hand. Cost effective ($4) and easy to change, I only wish Mobil1 made a replacement filter

Last but not least changing your own oil can be a learning experience time after time: As many times as I did it on other cars this was my first time on the Aurora and alas I did learn something - My mechanic changed the oil when I got my transmission replaced but now I know he did not replace the filter. He might as well not have changed the oil as it became dark less than 1000miles later. It's just one more reason to DIY simple maintenance tasks on your Aurora.

[erw38]

kobalt,

Those were some great how to instructions. I've always wanted to replace my own oil but was always scared I would do something wrong (with me that is all to common). You made the process look so easy. Looks like I gotta get a hydrolic jack and jackstands now!
Thanks again for the wonderful post. Very detailed and wll explained.

Thank you again!

[dred98]

erw38 said:

kobalt,

Those were some great how to instructions. I've always wanted to replace my own oil but was always scared I would do something wrong (with me that is all to common). You made the process look so easy. Looks like I gotta get a hydrolic jack and jackstands now!
Thanks again for the wonderful post. Very detailed and wll explained.

Thank you again!

Make sure that when you do this you fire up your camera. Maybe we should all get together and buy kobalt a Classic so the rest of us can find these write-ups even more useful.

[kobalt]

Nothing feels better than positive reception ;D ;D ;D! While I would love to have a Classic, I'll be helping omegaic do his oil change, and you can be sure there will be plenty of pictures!

[Marc]

"WTF was GM thinking?"......They were thinking of making this job difficult for the DIY!


______________

GM!!! BRING BACK OLDS!!!

[rocketman]

Great pictures! Now I'm even happier I have V-8s. The last time I saw a cartridge filter was on my '53 88 (and that wasn't that long ago). I can't say I miss it.

[Marc]

Does anyone know why the 3.5 has the cartridge type
oil filter instead of the spin-on type?

_____________

GM!!! BRING BACK OLDS!!!

[Aurora40]

If you go to your GM dealer and buy a new replacement oil drain plug, it will be magnetic. I replaced mine for about $3.50 or so. I'm not sure how much a magnetic tip helps, but it does always have a fine layer of magnetic goop on it when I change it.

My only gripe about changing oil on the Aurora is that a pan that can hold the 7.5 quarts of oil is one that can't fit under the car. Otherwise I could change it without a jack. This is the first car I've had to jack up to change the oil on including my Corvette.

[kobalt]

Aurora40 - I've been going back and forth in my mind as to whether or not I should get a magentic oil drain plug. It is a fact that it does pick up a significant amount of metal particulates. It is also a fact that the drain plug is located at the lowest part of the oil pan on most cars. What else is located at the lowest part of the oil pan? The oil pump pickup of course! If metal particulates accumulate on the magnetic plug would that make it easier for the pump to suck it all back into the engine? Perhaps. Or maybe not. This question had been debated to death while I was part of the Nissan and BMW boards. I would say to each is own, but then again I still can't make up my mind

[kobalt]

Marc said:

Does anyone know why the 3.5 has the cartridge type
oil filter instead of the spin-on type?

Cost could be a reason. Cartridge type filters are ususally cheaper as the enclosure is re-used. I paid $4 and thats from the dealer. Since the filter pickup was integrated into the oil pan clearnace could be an issue as well. A cartridge filter is more compact and therefore more suitable for such application.

Like I said before the placement inside the oil pan was not a bad idea as the oil does not drip all over the engine when you remove the filter - just straight into the oil drain pan.

What is bad about it is that you're not getting that sucker off without a proper filter cap socket while in most cars you just grab the filter with your hand and unscrew.

[Aurora40]

kobalt said:

Aurora40 - I've been going back and forth in my mind as to whether or not I should get a magentic oil drain plug. It is a fact that it does pick up a significant amount of metal particulates. It is also a fact that the drain plug is located at the lowest part of the oil pan on most cars. What else is located at the lowest part of the oil pan? The oil pump pickup of course! If metal particulates accumulate on the magnetic plug would that make it easier for the pump to suck it all back into the engine? Perhaps. Or maybe not. This question had been debated to death while I was part of the Nissan and BMW boards. I would say to each is own, but then again I still can't make up my mind

Well, metal is heavier than oil anyway, so it'd be on the bottom regardless. And, the magnetic plug doesn't create more metal particles, so even if stuff stuck to it and then came off and went in the pickup, it would have gone in the pickup anyway.

And, it's the GM replacement now, not an aftermarket bit. The new part number for the (4.0 anyway) oil drain plug is now a magnetic one. I'd guess the engineers considered it before changing.

But I doubt that if it helps that it makes a huge difference. It's quite possible that stuff would get caught in the filter anyway. I don't think it's gonna save my engine or anything, but I like it and I like seeing how much crud sticks to it.

[scottydl]

I'd be happy to document (via photos) my next DIY oil change, so us Classic owners are in the loop. It may be awhile though, as I think my DIC is still showing 70% or so Oil Life remaining.

[omegaic]

I think I'll beat you to it...%20.

[scottydl]

Hehe, you are welcome to it.

[erw38]

Hurry please, I'm a 30%. ;D ;D

[dk58]

Thanks So much kobalt. You posts are extreamly helpful. How much for the filter socket??? Any parts store have them? or do you have suggestions.

[Marc]

dk58....You can get the 3.5 oil filter wrench at the site noted
below:

www.otctools.com/newcatalog/detail.php3?id=699


Kent Moore Tools also has it, P/N J-29142

[kobalt]

dk58 - Im glad you liked the write-up. I guess Marc beat me to it - I got it at my local autozone for a whopping $3.99

[skeecat]

I never knew where I could get a filter wrench so I made my own spanner. I jack up the left front enough to put a stand under it and remove the filter and plug. I drop the corner and wait 5 minutes or so for the oil to drain. I like the idea of the ramps, though. Easier to spend more time under the car just looking around at stuff. Anybody else do this? I agree on the Mobil 1 but I buy STP filters from Autozone-the only place that carries a filter like this that I have found. I'll compare the AC filter next time. I rely on the reminder for oil changes. It is consistently 6000 miles between changes. I wonder if it is pre-programmed.

[kobrak]

I believe it is probably a more "green" way to go? Less to recycle?

[charliefoxtrot]

If you have forgotten to buy the cap-type oil filter wrench, it CAN be done with the regular compression-type wrench and a little patience.

And although apparently a pan big enough to drain the 4.0 cars won't fit without jacking up the car (says Aorora4.0 above), I did the 3.5 without jacking.

[blackandsilver]

Hey Aurora lovers,
Just completed my first oil change on my Aurora--trouble free! Suggestion: If you have an inclined driveway you can speed the process of leveling the car so the front is down by placing your ramps at the bottommost portion of your driveway this eliminates the need to lift the back of the car---a time saver and I believe anytime you can keep two wheels on the ground it will be safer. Hope the suggestion helps

[ragamuffin]

Hey Kobalt,
Just joined the klub, and read your oil change directions, along with beautiful pictures.
Well done I'll have to try on my next due, and hope to find this 75mm socket in the mean time.
Thanks Ragamuffin

[silverback660]

Great write up, the photos made the difference. This my first Aurora repair and I was a little worried about where the filter and drain plug were located. With photos I can do a walk through the repair in my head first. I have to admit that having to jack the car up is a little crazy but knowing before you get into the repair makes a huge difference. Thanks!

[super]

It took a 74mm 15flute cup to get the filter off my '01. No local parts stores had that size. 76/74 wouldn't work cuz it would just slip off. My wife kept asking me why i wouldn't take it to a quick lube shop. ...pshh.

Mainly I just wanted to let others know it actually took a 74mm filter cup to get my filter out.

[fjs442]

The one thing I do that was not mentioned here is prime the filter. Clean out the housing
and install the new filter. Then pour fresh oil into the center of the filter until the housing is
about 3/4 full. The oil will take a second or two to pass through the filter media. Install housing,
carefully of course!!

[Bigluck]

WOW. I've always wanted to change my own oil but just needed a little direction. I wish I needed an oil change right this second. Pictures make a hell of a difference. Now I just have to figure out what kind of 5w 30 I want to put in her.

[donc]

Wow -- Changing the oil on the 3.5 liter sounds lie a real pain in the rear. Cartridge filter?? I thought those were obsolete!! The 4.0 8 cylinder is a lot easier, no cartridge filter and no jacks or ramps needed.

Changing oil on the 4.0 liter engine Aurora--

An easy job to accomplish on a Sat. afternoon with an adult malt beverage nearby to keep me hydrated.

I ususally change oil about every 4,500 miles. This translates to about 50% life left on the DIC display in the dash.

Tools needed -- 15 mm socket with driver, strap type filter wrench or cartridge wrench for filter size. AC PF-61 Oil Filter, 5W-30 Oil. I use straight mineral oil, Castrol, but many people like the synthetic or a mineral/synthetic blend. Your preference.

The car is low but not low enough to have to put up on jacks or ramps. Crawl under car from front with the 15 mm socket and remove the plug on the passenger side of the pan. Fortunately, in this case, the plug is on the lowest side of the pan so changing oil on a level surface is the only requirement.

Make sure you have a container that will hold 7.5 qts. of oil or be prepared to put the plug back in to empty out the container then repeat the procedure. In my case I have to empty the container once but it's not a big deal. Finally, I usually let it drip for about 10 minutes to get as much oil out as practical before putting the plug back in.

Once the oil pan is empty slide the container under the oil filter cartridge and unscrew, either by hand, using a strap type oil filter wrench, or cartridge wrench. You can get enough grip to break it loose on the tip of the filter as the filter should not be extremely tight if it was installed properly.

Once the filter is removed again let the oil drip for a few minutes into the pan to allow the dirty oil to drain out.

To install the new filter I always coat the gasket and fill the new filter with fresh oil before screwing up into the engine 3/4 turn past seating. This is easily accomplished since the filter installs in a straight vertical plane. This insures that oil flows into the internal workings of the engine as soon as it is started with no delay waiting for the filter to fill.

Wipe any excess oil off the engine or ground, pull the pan out from under the car and you are ready to add fresh oil to the engine.

I always add the first seven quarts, start the engine, and let the oil circulate for a couple of minutes, checking for leaks, then let it sit for a few minutes, check the oil on the dip stick then top it off with another half quart. Check general appearance of job to make sure everything checks OK then reset the DIC by holding it down until it resets to 100%.

You are now good to go. Total time, about 1 hour. Be sure to dispose of the old oil properly by having it recycled.

Now it's time for another cold one, admiring a job well done and saving yourself about $25!

[apostolakisl]

I change the oil on my 3.5 without jacking it up. Once you've done it a couple of times and are real familiar with where everything it is, no problem. I am fairly thin at 5'10" 165lbs. If you were much bigger it probably wouldn't be possible unless you had really long arms. The cartrige filter is no big deal, I use a regular oil filter wrench on it. It's no harder than a canister, just a bit different. I have to ask why the hack they charge so much more money for the cartrige since it is simply the guts of a regular filter. It should cost less!

[bojanks]

thanks for posting this, i was pretty imtimidated by changing my own in my 3.5 due to the cartridge style oil filter. pretty cool about using the boards to get on those ramps, hadn't thought of that, you guys are always thinkin'. i'm thinkin' i'm doin' my own now, cuz i wanted to run full synthetic anyway.