How to change spark plugs

[Aurora40]

I took out one plug from the front bank today, and figured I'd do a quick write-up. I did not touch the back bank, so you are on your own:

Step 1: Remove the sight shield. This is the big plastic piece that says "Aurora V8" on it:


Step 2: Disconnect the cable from the front coil pack. You can insert a small flatblade screwdriver to unclip the attachment clip:


Step 3: Remove the 8 bolts that hold the coilpack down. The bolts should be removed from the outside in, not just randomly. They have a 10mm head. You will probaby need to unclip the upper radiator hose (though you shouldn't need to disconnect it) in order to get at the 4 bolts on the bottom:


Step 4: I covered each plug wire with tape, and also covered the grounding hole. Then I took some compressed air and blew all the loose crud out. I also wiped it down with a wet towel. You don't want to blow the crud into the tops of the plug wires or into the grounding hole:

Step 5: The plug wires can be easily removed by hand. Just grab the top of it firmly and try to rotate it around and pull it up. They come out pretty easily. I then blew compressed air in around the plug to remove any grit. However, the plug wire boot seals very well and it was very clean in there. Then you can remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket (I believe 5/8").


Step 6: Gap your new plug to the appropriate gap, .050" in my case, and install it. Be careful not to force it, as you don't want to strip the threads. They should be torqued to between 13-16 lb-ft. I set my wrench to 174 in-lbs (14.5 lb-ft). Then press the plug wire back down on the plug. Repeat this for all four plugs:


Step 7: Put the coilpack back on. Make sure to line up the individual leads onto the plug wires, and also make sure the spring goes into the grounding hole properly:


Step 8: Replace the coilpack bolts, and tighten down to 80 in-lbs. Start from the center and work your way out. Replace the connector, do the back side (which as I said I didn't do. It's like the front, but you have to move some stuff out of the way first). Then replace the sight shield, and you should be good to go.

[Marc]

In the rear, the A.I.R. valve has to be removed to get at
the rear coil pack. And some A/C lines are close to the
rear coil pack. Actually reaching in between the cowl and the rear coil pack is not hard.


_______________

GM!!! BRING BACK OLDS!!!

[kobalt]

Good stuff and you beat me to it!

[tonic]

Is there anyone that can help me/ explain me how to change the spark plugs for 2001 Aurora 3.5 V6. It looks different than V8 - I just removed the 7 bolts that hold the coilpack down. And the only thing I can see is the 3 holes ... and each hole has a long ruber tube inside/dark purple ... I cannot see what is at the other end/ is it where the spark plugs are located?!?!
Thank you.

[Aurora40]

tonic said:

Is there anyone that can help me/ explain me how to change the spark plugs for 2001 Aurora 3.5 V6. It looks different than V8 - I just removed the 7 bolts that hold the coilpack down. And the only thing I can see is the 3 holes ... and each hole has a long ruber tube inside/dark purple ... I cannot see what is at the other end/ is it where the spark plugs are located?!?!
Thank you.

It's the same thing for the V6. The rubber things are the plug wires. Pull it out and the spark plug is on the other end.

[tonic]

Thank you very much for your help.
I tried to pull them out but I was afraid that it would break?!

How hard do I have to pull ?!
Thank you!

[aurora2001tan]

sometimes its best to grab them with some plyers and trist them first to break the seal and then pull on them.

[intheb0x]

hey so you only changed the front plugs?
how does the car run with the new plugs in the front?
when are you going to do the back plugs?

[Aurora40]

intheb0x said:

hey so you only changed the front plugs?
how does the car run with the new plugs in the front?
when are you going to do the back plugs?

I didn't change them at all. I took one out to settle a discussion about who makes the OEM plugs (Denso).

[danjc]

I did all the plugs a while back. If memory serves, a couple of the rear plugs took a little ingenuity. I wrote down how I did it, for future reference. I will dig that out and post it later. I am not going to claim my way is the best, only, or even correct way - as I am just a backyard mechanic - hack, if you will... I do love this car, and even with the issues I have bumped into, I don't intend on parting ways anytime soon.

Dan

[myaurorarocks]

thanks for this info i will remember that

[helly]

Dan

Was it a pain to change the spark plugs and wires? Or is it easier to have someone else do it?

[danjc]

Sorry I haven't posted the process. Problem is I have it written down in a shorthand that I would (apparently) only understand standing under the hood... And I have been unable to get that hood time. So here i what my coded process was - it may not make sense, until you look at it, if at all.

There was a vacuum setup on the assembly. Remove the the nuts at the BOTTOM of the flexible hose (think it was aluminum flex hose). Remove the three screws holding the assembly to the top (remove them from the bracket, and remove as a whole). I believe the flex hose came out with the assemply - still attached at the top... Finally unplug all electrical connectors, and continue on as normal.

This was not very difficult, just took a little time to figure it out. The process is just more complicated due to a lack of space in the area.

Also, there were no wires, each coil was spring connected directly to the spark plug.

This was on 2001 V8.

Dan

[danjc]

Wanted to add that the entire process to change the plugs was NOT hard or overly complicated. Took a little longer, but not something that I would hesitate doing. I think it took longer for me to figure the rear plugs than the whole process to actually remove the coils and install the plugs. So next time, I am going to count on much less than 2 hours. That way, if issues arise I have time to correct them.

Dan

[bufo]

Nice write-up! How about the rear plugs? (Hmm--that doesn't sound wholesome . . . )

I ordered AC Delco plugs from Advanced for $6 each. Will change them this weekend between ballgames. So many projects, so little time.

[aurora2001tan]

Use 3/8 inch oil or fuel line hose to hold your plug while you drop it down the rear holes. Then tighten them with the hose and pull off.

[bigd]

Hey guys,

Here is the deal: I'm the poor guy in England without the certified American car mechanics except for the local Air Force base mechanics. He asked me to inquire about changing the rear plugs. He is concerned about the gasket/air valve part in the way. He is nervous that the valve may not reseal. I told him to go for it because I just want to get it done. He just wanted to be sure that replacing the valve wasn't part of changing the plugs. Any advice? From the previous posts, it didn't seem like there would be a problem resealing the valve. Thanks ahead for any advice.

Bigd

[austinator]

Could you get a picture of what he's talking about? You can do it without replacing anything but the plugs, but I can give your more info if we know what you're talking about.

[bigd]

He is coming in tomorrow morning/afternoon my time to finish up the rear plugs. I will give him the info you all posted and if he can reseal the valve, I will snap a photo then to see if you can help him out. Thanks for your response!

Bigd

[Oldsnut]

I just changed th coil pack, plugs and boots on the rear of my '03 4.0. due to it throwing a P0306 code.

What a pain in the asssssssssssss. Gm designers should have to make all repairs on our cars and see their stupidity.

Didn't solve the issue. What else do you guys think it could be? Bad injector, Crankshaft Sensor? I am stumped

[kaykirk]

oldsnut said:

What else do you guys think it could be? I am stumped

operator error ;D

sorry, I couldn't resist

[Oldsnut]

kaykirk said:

oldsnut said:

What else do you guys think it could be? I am stumped

operator error ;D

sorry, I couldn't resist

Lets hope I don't have operator error on June 21st.

[Oldsnut]

According to AutoZone and the links below it does exist.
www.sitelevel.com//query.go?query=P0306&crid=5cc68cb676b4c652&Image10.x=68&Image10.y=23

www.autotap.com/generic_trouble_codes.html

[aurora2001tan]

Yikes, I wonder what else is not in the Gm Si program??? Im going to delete that post since this code is really out there. Did you get anywhere yet with a fix?

[Oldsnut]

Yes I did. I am embarassed to say if I would have paid attention to my research very closely, I would have realized that the #6 cylinder was on the front bank of plugs and not the back like I thought. I replaced the front plugs and boots and POOF, no more misfire. The #6 plug was severely fouled as you will see in the pics below.

[Oldsnut]

I would also like to add that this is the hardest part part of working on the rear bank of plugs and coil pack. It needs to be totally removed before any work can be done on the coil or plugs. As you can see from the flexible pipe in the picture it goes behind the engine pretty far. It takes dexterity and many flex joints and extender bars to remove it.

[aurora2001tan]

[ntrenn]

Oldsnut - how hard have you run it since the new plugs in the front bank. Reason I ask is that your number 6 looks exactly like my number 8 did and after the plug change it was much improved, but still missed at WOT up around 4 grand and above. Coil pack finally fixed it - hope you didn't throw away your semi-good rear pack.

Also - the book calls for lubing the spark plug boots with the GM dielectric grease (about $5) so that the boots slip off easily next time. It really does help them slide off easier.

[Oldsnut]

It runs great!! I was on the highway many times today and had her up to 90mph. I did use dielectric grease on the top of the plug and top of boot.

No way would I throw out what I know is a good coil pack.

[Oldsnut]

aurora2001tan said:

I could only get one of those off. Once I got that part off, the rest was a breeze. It moved quickly after that with nothing in the way