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Post by vojtazbrna on Jan 10, 2005 23:03:19 GMT -6
Hi,I just bought a 99 Aurora. Everything is perfect but one minor problem. The breaks are squealing.
I had them checked and was told that they were almost brand new and that it's just dust. Now, I already fell in love with this car so I just want everything to be perfect. And squealing breaks are rather annoying, even though it's not like really bad.
I have read some other reviews and found out that it might be some issues with the rotors for which there are replacements. Then I also read that ceramic pads might solve this problem.
Please let me know what might be the best solution.
Thanx
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Post by stevensolds on Jan 10, 2005 23:08:14 GMT -6
welcome to the board! i wanted to get a 99, but it was too much for me. Virtually no problems with 99 compared to 95 model.  First off, if they say they are new, u probably mean the pads. My front rotors are shot, but they are not making grinding noises, rather a (bump-bump-bump) noise and its VERY annoying. Shop says 3000 mi left and any further i am asking for it. Dude i would get cross drilled and slotted for a more precise and quicker stop. They are like $219 US for the fronts i think. |
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Post by SupaStealth on Jan 11, 2005 1:02:11 GMT -6
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Post by Aurora40 on Jan 11, 2005 11:07:07 GMT -6
One simple thing you can do is pull the pads off, clean the backs, clean the caliper, and put some anti-squeal grease on the pad backings. Then put it back together. Light squealing usually is just dust. It's pretty easy to fix.
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Post by kobalt on Jan 11, 2005 15:48:52 GMT -6
Try cleaning the brakes as per Aurora40's instructions. In the event you do need new brakes, get the rotors cut/changed as well.
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Post by GlennS87 on Jan 12, 2005 11:08:26 GMT -6
Do you know what brand pads are on there? Some brands have a tendency to squeal more than others.
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jan 12, 2005 22:23:05 GMT -6
First of all, thank you guys for your answers.
I was told that the pads were almost new, but that they were metalic pads and they might squeal. I do not know the brand.
Now if I take the time to clean them and grease them, I would rather change them for new rotors and pads.
The drilled and slotted rotors look pretty good, but: how difficult is it to put them on? Any instructions somewhere on the web? Then what pads would you guys recommend? And last, if I change the front rotors and pads will I need the rear ones done, too? I really don't know much about this, but am eager to learn and to do everything myself. So thank you for any ideas.
Btw. the 99 is so far running amazingly. i read some terrifying stories about 95s and "knock knock" so far nothing but a great ride.
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Post by Letitroll98 on Jan 13, 2005 0:20:00 GMT -6
Hey vojtazbrna.
Most of the braking (70-80%) is done by the front brakes so you could very safely only replace the front rotors with cross drilled/slotted rotors. Additionally there can be issues with too much improvement in rear braking if you add slotted rotors to the rear brakes, upsetting the factory brake balancing (which won't be hurt by improving the front brakes, goofy I know, but it's way easier to lock up the rears). Myself, I would check with someone who has installed improved rotors front and back before doing it.
Note that slotting and crossdrilling are two different things to do to a rotor. Slotting is to add some bite to the braking, with a very minimal extra cooling effect. Cross drilling effectively vents the the rotors for cooling, adds some bite of its own, and reduces the unsprung weight of the wheel assembly. Drilled rotors will also lose some strength and durability, which you are giving up for performance. I think slotted only will do just fine as a performance upgrade on a sedan like the Aurora, however I have't done this yet so listen to the guys here who have.
Ceramic pads are OEM standard for the Aurora because they're quieter, as they throw way less brake dust, and last longer than semi metallics. If you're going for performance only you might try some of the Green Stuff metallic pads which will work on street vehicles (their racing pads would never heat up enough to be of use on the road). If you want quiet brakes go with a good quality ceramic.
Changing rotors is very simple in theory, detailed in any shop guide. Where the simple breaks down is that every friggin' bolt, bearing, and sleave gets welded on down there over time and chiseling or cutting something is often required. Reassembly is as easy as the books make it look. Best of luck.
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scottydl
Super Moderator 
There's nothin' like an American V-8...
Posts: 7,373
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Post by scottydl on Jan 13, 2005 21:25:45 GMT -6
Welcome, fellow '99 owner! You've come to the right place. ;D Those look nice, Supa.... how much pricing research did you do before buying? I'll be in the market for brakes soon also, and $100 shipped doesn't sound too bad. JimW (if you're reading this), didn't you once post a brake replacement tutorial on your '97, with photos? |
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Post by Aurora40 on Jan 13, 2005 21:53:13 GMT -6
First of all, thank you guys for your answers. I was told that the pads were almost new, but that they were metalic pads and they might squeal. I do not know the brand. Now if I take the time to clean them and grease them, I would rather change them for new rotors and pads. The drilled and slotted rotors look pretty good, but: how difficult is it to put them on? Any instructions somewhere on the web? Then what pads would you guys recommend? And last, if I change the front rotors and pads will I need the rear ones done, too? I really don't know much about this, but am eager to learn and to do everything myself. So thank you for any ideas. Btw. the 99 is so far running amazingly. i read some terrifying stories about 95s and "knock knock" so far nothing but a great ride. Just FYI, and of course it's your call. But taking pads off is much easier than taking rotors off. You often need only remove one bolt to swing the caliper out to get to the pads. If you wanted, you could even clean them without removing anything but the wheel, but you won't do as good a job. The labor is free, quality pads and rotors are not. And you'll still need to lube or shim them to prevent squeal. But it's your time and money.  I would go with solid rotors and OEM pads if it were me. The OEM pads work well and are quiet and not dusty. I can't ask for much more than that. |
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Post by SupaStealth on Jan 13, 2005 21:54:13 GMT -6
i didn't do too much, but those were the cheapest performance brakes i could find, they were even cheaper than the replacement cost at the shop where my car is still at, they wanted 59 or 69 dollars each for replacement (and probably cheap brand) brakes there. there are some other performance brakes that range from $100 shipped to about the same cost as RSM brakes.
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Post by stevensolds on Jan 13, 2005 22:01:25 GMT -6
i want to get the 250 dollar brembo brakes lol. those stop on a f'ing dime. my dad has them on the jaguar. www.importperformance.com/store/FS00062oops just saw, they are for 97-02. Again i would be nice to have 97+ model. bigger brakes. |
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jan 13, 2005 22:24:14 GMT -6
I did some research on rotors. Tirerack.com offers front set for about $200...others are about the same. You can find some under $100 with S/H on ebay...I have not found anything cheaper. So I'll probably go with that. I found some ceramic pads on partsamerica.com for $50 for a front set. Then some Hawks for about $70.
If any of you guys have done the replacement and have posted the instructions somewhere could you please drop a copy around here? Thanx.
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jan 13, 2005 23:27:24 GMT -6
Just FYI, and of course it's your call. But taking pads off is much easier than taking rotors off. You often need only remove one bolt to swing the caliper out to get to the pads. If you wanted, you could even clean them without removing anything but the wheel, but you won't do as good a job. The labor is free, quality pads and rotors are not. And you'll still need to lube or shim them to prevent squeal. But it's your time and money. I would go with solid rotors and OEM pads if it were me. The OEM pads work well and are quiet and not dusty. I can't ask for much more than that. I would love to do it the easiest way. I'm not sure though if it's not the rotors that are bad and causing the squeal. How can I tell if the rotors are shot? Any particular reasons why chose solid? I read that drilled rotors might crack eventually or in other words the durability is not that high, is the dif that big? |
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Post by Aurora40 on Jan 13, 2005 23:33:42 GMT -6
Shot rotors will either be too thin or warped. To tell if they are too thin, you need to measure them. But you can eyeball to see if they are worn in more than the area the pads don't touch. Warped you'll know because the car will buck and vibrate from them.
I would get solid rotors because most quality rotors are solid except for some pricey ones. Also because they are the most durable and least likely to warp due to having the most mass. But that's just me personally.
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Post by erw38 on Jan 13, 2005 23:58:15 GMT -6
Easiest way to see if the rotors are warped is to take a finger and slide it over the surface of the rotor (start inside and slide your finger straight to the outside). If you feel cuts and/or valley or any scored area then it is time for a replacement. To measure the thickness, go buy a cheap digital caliper and measure them. I think new ones are 8mm's thick or so. Good Luck. www.forparts.com/techbosbrakejob.htm |
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jan 16, 2005 22:08:47 GMT -6
The rotors seem to be still fine. I got some break cleaner and anti-squeal grease. I'll take them apart and try to clean them. Then we'll see if it's gonna be enough.
The more I read about the breaks the more complicated it seems to be. At least with the Auroras. Anyway, thank you for your help guys.
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Post by erw38 on Jan 16, 2005 22:16:13 GMT -6
Actually, I believe it is the opposite. People say that the brakes are easier on the Aurora than other cars. I think I will need to do mine soon. If I do then I will take pictures.
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jan 16, 2005 23:10:33 GMT -6
To change them yes, but I read that it is pain in the butt to choose the right equipment so it lasts long and doesn't squeal. The question is to stay with OEM or upgrade to x drilled or slotted rotors; then to pick ceramic or stay with metalic and plus all the cost? Again, that's what I read.
Anyway, when you do it, please take pics and add some instructions. Thanx
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Post by w3rk5 on Jan 17, 2005 0:04:13 GMT -6
Hi vojtazbrna,
Here's a link (http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.html) I found helpful regarding rotors. I'm gonna be doing my brakes soon also. I'm thinking about going with some mid-grade rotors and Wagner ceramic pads.
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Post by kobalt on Jan 17, 2005 8:03:45 GMT -6
Take pics and remember who's here to help if you get stuck by any chance Good luck! |
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Post by Aurora40 on Jan 17, 2005 10:01:35 GMT -6
The rotors seem to be still fine. I got some break cleaner and anti-squeal grease. I'll take them apart and try to clean them. Then we'll see if it's gonna be enough. The more I read about the breaks the more complicated it seems to be. At least with the Auroras. Anyway, thank you for your help guys. To clean them it's real easy. Just take your time and do one wheel at a time. You can even use the trunk jack. Take a wheel off, then you'll see the caliper and rotor and such. The caliper will have two smaller bolts (one on each side) that are along the top of it and hold it to that bracket that goes over the rotor. Then there are two much bigger heftier bolts along the backside that secure the whole mechanism to the car. It's the smaller bolts on the top you want. Just remove one of them and you'll be able to swing the caliper on the other (you may have to loosen the other small bolt slightly). Then you can clean it and put the lube on the back of the pads. You don't have to remove the caliper at all. If you don't use the brake hard before you stop it and jack it up, you may not need to push the piston in at all to swing the caliper up. But if it won't swing, just take a C-clamp and put one side on the back of the caliper (the side facing the wheel well) and the other side in the cutout directly on the pad. Tighten it just a tad, you'll see the caliper shift over and lose contact with the pad, and then it'll swing right off. |
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Post by Letitroll98 on Jan 20, 2005 23:29:15 GMT -6
You bunch of crappy stinkers! All this brake talk and my baby heard ya. Now she's squeling, and I mean squeling, for new brakes. I can't get in to the shop till next week and I have to drive the car, so at the least I'll need the rotors turned. Which should be done almost every time pads are replaced anyway. New pads and true rotor surfaces go hand in hand. I'll do some research on the ceramic pads I want to use and post later. You couldn't just shut up, could ya?  |
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Post by stevensolds on Jan 21, 2005 17:27:43 GMT -6
youll notice a huge difference letitroll...especially if you opt for the X drilled or slotted rotors |
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Post by 95mushroom on Jan 21, 2005 18:51:39 GMT -6
Are you guys totally sure the squealing is just not the ear tabs on the pads? All of family's/my brake squeals are just the ear tabs. Bend them out, and try'em. I often find they're way too liberal in pad wear thickness vs. replacement time.
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Post by Aurora40 on Jan 22, 2005 10:53:30 GMT -6
I think they are just cautious. Most people probably drive aruond for weeks with the tabs touching before finding a brake place or whatever. And they have to account for people with messed up brakes that wear the pad unevenly/diagonally. You don't want to wait until the pad backing is cutting into the rotor. But since you are doing your own stuff, you can probably get away just fine with bending the wear sensors out. |
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Post by SupaStealth on Jan 24, 2005 0:13:49 GMT -6
Woohoo, i just got my rotors ;D, wow they look awesome, i just have to find a place where i can put them on now, i'm sure i'll find a friend with a garage or somethin'
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