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Post by Custom88 on Oct 12, 2005 12:53:37 GMT -6
Incase you don't know what C.A.I. stands for, it is Cold Air Intake. You may ask the question of why would your car need a cold air intake? The answer is that the stock setup on our vehicles are designed to look good, be cost effective, and to be quiet. What they don't offer however is performance and efficiency. These two things go hand in hand. The downside to the stock intake is that first, the air has to be slightly blocked by the vehicles PCM because the air filter shares a box with the PCM. The air then is directed into a snorkle tube which delivers the air to the air filter section of the air box. From there, the air flows upward and to a 90 degree angle. The air then passes through the MAF sensor, then makes a sharp 40* turn downward, then straight again finally arriving to the throttle body. The air direction must change several times on its way to the engine. With the CAI the air flow is laminar and smooth. It only takes one gradual, smooth turn towards the engine and it is it. Airflow using the stock airbox:  Stock accordian tube that goes from MAF sensor to throttle body. the inside of this tube resembles the outside. It is not flat inside meaning the air will become turbulant after the MAF.  I bought the intake tube from autozone. It is an intake made for the Honda Accord and Acura Integra I believe it was? It's an all aluminum polished design. It has a hole pre-drilled for the IAT sensor even. It's a tight perfect fit as well!   The intake tubing is 3" which is perfect for the shortstar engine. The intake pipe comes with one black coupler and two metal rings to tigthen the rubber around the pipe. As you can see in the next picture, the pipe is slightly too long. It will require cutting!  The MAF sensor will work perfectly at the end of the pipe after it has been shortened nearly 6" or so. (I haven't made final measurements as of yet.)  The air filter will go directly onto the end of the MAF sensor. Originally I had planned to have the MAF mounted directly after the TB, but, with this design, the pipe lines up PERFECTLY with the hole in the fender where air entered the stock airbox. It will be a perfect setup. I don't have it installed yet because I'm waiting for a PCM try to hold my PCM. The PCM will lay flat against the bottom of the engine compartment (bottom of where the stock airbox would be.) The stock PCM is water tight so it will not be harmed here. The air filter will be directly above where the PCM will be. I plan to later build a box to serve as a heat sheild for the air filter, and I'll probably wrap the intake pipe with reflectix to block heat. This should be a very noticable peformance enhancer, and even fuel economy! THis should flow much better than stock for sure.  Questions? Comments? Suggestions? |
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Post by kobalt on Oct 12, 2005 14:38:46 GMT -6
Looks great! I don't see the MAF to TB distance being that big of a deal. Build a heat shield around the conical filter for maximum gains and definitely post more pics as you go along to complete the tutorial. Best of luck!
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Post by SupaStealth on Oct 12, 2005 14:54:25 GMT -6
lookin' good so far!, your plan looks pretty good, are you planning on going with a K&N cone intake? if you do, you'll have to order it, for me it was about a week and a half wait. do you know what material you're going to make the heat shield out of? for me, i used some plastic sheet i had laying around, plastic welded the corners and even coated the corners with epoxy for extra strength. the hardest part is getting dimensions that work. what i suggest is making a cardboard mock-up to get dimensions, that way you can change things a bit easier. heres links to pictures with just the intake, then before and after puting thermotape over the heat shield. img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/SupaStealthTT/My%20Car/PICT0108.jpgimg.photobucket.com/albums/v439/SupaStealthTT/My%20Car/airbox.jpgimg.photobucket.com/albums/v439/SupaStealthTT/My%20Car/IMG_0002.jpgwhen i went to the track a couple weeks ago, i found out how much that heat shield really helps, especially after the car is already warmed up. my run with the heat shield was around 15.8-9, without it was 16.3! |
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Post by Marc on Oct 12, 2005 16:58:52 GMT -6
This looks good. I hope that it works out.
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Post by Custom88 on Oct 12, 2005 17:58:12 GMT -6
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Post by Aurora40 on Oct 12, 2005 20:06:24 GMT -6
Well, I guess I'm the only one who likes the stock box. My ducting is about 4-4.5", and the box pulls from behind the headlight. At the best, this is where your CAI will pull from too, if you thread some pipe through that hole. Otherwise it will pull from the bay.
If you put a box around it, though, it shouldn't be any worse than stock, and might do better. How much did the pipe cost?
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Post by Custom88 on Oct 12, 2005 20:12:21 GMT -6
it's not that I don't like the stock box, I just see a lot of improvement to be made to it. The flow characteristics of it are not good. That many sharp bends only hurt air flow. The aftermarket intake will flow a lot better. The pipe was $40, the Filter will be around $40 as well. In all this is looking to be between a $100 and $150 project. It'll be worth it though I assure you. Not only will gas mileage improve, but performance will as well significantly.
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Oct 12, 2005 20:33:34 GMT -6
Wow, that's much better! Good thinking on your part. :-)
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Post by SupaStealth on Oct 12, 2005 21:13:39 GMT -6
If you put a box around it, though, it shouldn't be any worse than stock, and might do better. How much did the pipe cost? well, i don't know how the 2nd gen is, but on the classic, it sucks air through a 1.5inch by 2.5" oval tube that's about 6" long, also, my heat shield deflects most of the heat from the engine bay, again, on the classic, there are three 2-3" round openings that are sucking air through the inner fender. i'm thinking that would be better than stock, don't you   not to meantion more area of filtration (depending on size) |
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Post by Custom88 on Oct 12, 2005 21:25:48 GMT -6
Inside the 2nd Gen airbox  airbox removed:  PCM In place:  I agree supa, there's a LOT of improvement to be made on both generations. |
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Post by Aurora40 on Oct 13, 2005 8:23:35 GMT -6
well, i don't know how the 2nd gen is, but on the classic, it sucks air through a 1.5inch by 2.5" oval tube that's about 6" long, also On my car, air is pulled in from behind the headlight through a 3.5" round tube. It's about 3-4" long. It's the white piece in Dan's picture, though on my car it is black. |
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Post by 97abrora on Oct 16, 2005 22:33:42 GMT -6
Forgive the stupid question, but how'd you cut the tubing?
-Nick
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Post by Custom88 on Oct 16, 2005 22:36:13 GMT -6
You can cut the pipe with a hacksaw. Just a FYI, this project has been put on hold for another week or so. My grandfather just passed away so I'm doing things for my family at the time being. It'll get done eventually. I just have more important things to take care of. |
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Post by 97abrora on Oct 16, 2005 22:45:32 GMT -6
That's what I thought.. not sure if you used something else..  |
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Post by betonthis1 on Oct 17, 2005 0:19:25 GMT -6
You can cut the pipe with a hacksaw. Just a FYI, this project has been put on hold for another week or so. My grandfather just passed away so I'm doing things for my family at the time being. It'll get done eventually. I just have more important things to take care of. I'm sorry about your Grandfather. looking forward to your findings. also are you planning to get some measurements on a machine once its completed to see any actual gains? i will look into getting an actual kit from K & N. I love the look of them with the heatshield only closed on the sides and the cone filter showing. looks great. i know they dont make one for the Aurora but im sure i can find one that i can modify or have one modified to fit. |
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Post by 97abrora on Oct 17, 2005 4:35:32 GMT -6
This is the one I'm going to modify. Simply by cutting it back.. www.f5air.com/images/updates/new_release/ma3301_lrg.jpgMade by Fujita, the once owner of "injen" now has his own line of equipment. This particular one isn't out yet, but when it is I think its going to be around $200.. like the rest of them. 8hp gains on the DYNO and 5lbs/ft torque. Not bad.. -Nick |
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Post by TJM on Oct 17, 2005 6:41:30 GMT -6
have you allowed for deflection? you will need to make sure that you have some sort of isolation dampening between the engine and the body - i didn't notice if that had been considered.
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Post by SupaStealth on Oct 17, 2005 7:58:35 GMT -6
i will look into getting an actual kit from K & N. I love the look of them with the heatshield only closed on the sides and the cone filter showing. looks great. i know they dont make one for the Aurora but im sure i can find one that i can modify or have one modified to fit. thats an aweful lot of money to be spending and modifying it. and if the top is open, what's the point of the heat shield, the hot air would be getting sucked through the top. |
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Post by betonthis1 on Oct 17, 2005 11:46:46 GMT -6
i will look into getting an actual kit from K & N. I love the look of them with the heatshield only closed on the sides and the cone filter showing. looks great. i know they dont make one for the Aurora but im sure i can find one that i can modify or have one modified to fit. thats an aweful lot of money to be spending and modifying it. and if the top is open, what's the point of the heat shield, the hot air would be getting sucked through the top. the heatshields with the top open are for show but they enlose once the roof is closed. it connects to the bottom of the roof. they look great.  like this one. it would be enlosed and the roof would cover the top but you can see the cone when you open the hood. what good is the cone filter if you cant see it. |
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Post by 97abrora on Oct 17, 2005 14:11:28 GMT -6
have you allowed for deflection? you will need to make sure that you have some sort of isolation dampening between the engine and the body - i didn't notice if that had been considered. Was that directed to me? Or betonthis? |
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Post by TJM on Oct 17, 2005 14:58:58 GMT -6
just in general - looking at the pics in this post and it looks like some are almost hard connections with very little rubber or room for flex - the engines gotta move a bit right?
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Post by SupaStealth on Oct 17, 2005 18:30:12 GMT -6
like this one. it would be enlosed and the roof would cover the top but you can see the cone when you open the hood. what good is the cone filter if you cant see it. so the bottom and fender side is enclosed then? that's where you want it to be open  |
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Post by betonthis1 on Oct 17, 2005 19:09:25 GMT -6
like this one. it would be enlosed and the roof would cover the top but you can see the cone when you open the hood. what good is the cone filter if you cant see it. so the bottom and fender side is enclosed then? that's where you want it to be open there are made to be open in the factory openings for the air. but they are show Air Filters. usually you will see foam inserts that go right on the top to completely enclose it on the top with the hood. the ones i am showing are K & N kits. obviously they know what they are doing. |
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Post by Custom88 on Oct 21, 2005 9:04:07 GMT -6
just a little bit of an update. I hordered the air filter something like a week, or two weeks ago, but they just shipped it YESTERDAY! The tracking number shows that the expected delivery date is Wednesday the 26th of October. I'm getting anxious to get this done.
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Post by betonthis1 on Oct 21, 2005 9:36:12 GMT -6
sweet!
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20inchaurora
Aurora Passenger
"not your father's oldsmobile"
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Post by 20inchaurora on Oct 24, 2005 22:48:49 GMT -6
at the very least it should sound sweet when you romp up on it! had a cone filter in my 3.1 cutlass for a bit and it even sounded good in that!
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Post by Custom88 on Oct 26, 2005 15:45:56 GMT -6
alright boys and girls, I got the intake stage 1 complete.. It took me about 3 hours to get completely done with everything. (fabricating and cutting all the peices.) In all the mod seems to have livened the car up a bit. My 0-60 speed is now 7.99 seconds with this intake and exhaust. I had nearly a full tank of gas and the outside temperature was 55 degrees outside. The engine was fully warmed up as well. The biggest improvement is SOUND. The engine sounds incredible! It doesn't just have intake sound, it roars. I like it. I in all this project was: $115. Air Filter: $40 Air intake pipe $40 3 Couplers $15 PCM Tray: $20 media.putfile.com/Auroraintake0-60 video. I'm not sure what the sliding sound is. I do know that my sunroof visor slid back into the roof, but I'm not sure if that's what it is or not.  (because my connection downright sucks I'm sure the video got cut off again before it was totally uploaded ) PCM tray mounted with PCM in it:   K&N Air filter:  Intake mounted:    I need to figure out how to keep the air filter from rubbing on the PCM. I don't want ahole rubbed in it. Secondly, I need to make a heatsheild/box setup to keep cold air surrounding the air filter. THis isn't a big deal seeming how it's cold out now, but come spring/summer it will be a concern. I'm not sure what I'll do about the box just yet because of how much room the PCM takes directly below it. I'm thinking of possibly mounting the filter in a metal cylinder that connects directly behind the headlight. It'd protect it from heat and it'd be easier to find somethign to use. I'll have to keep you guys updated though. EDIT: I forgot to mention that the intake whistle my car had before is gone. I think it was caused by the many restrictions in the stock airbox. |
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Post by Custom88 on Oct 26, 2005 22:32:21 GMT -6
This is what I'm planning for the heatsheild/box. It'll be made of plexiglass. the sides will be refletix wrapped and the top will be cleared with an Aurora Logo sticker centered. Does anyone have suggestions, comments or questions?  |
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Post by stevensolds on Oct 26, 2005 22:35:48 GMT -6
Nicely done dan. I wonder if theres any difference between the K&N and the knockoff filters. Even so, the K&N looks sharper.
Bob, would you consider doing this mod? I think it might make your track times better by a tenth or two. It was a rocket compared to a classic as i remember, but improvements can always be made. I noticed nothing from a K&N panel drop-in. Dissapointed needless to say, for spending $60.
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20inchaurora
Aurora Passenger
"not your father's oldsmobile"
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Post by 20inchaurora on Oct 26, 2005 22:46:44 GMT -6
how does it sound when your not romping up on it? ive bene thinking of doin that, but i still want it to be quiet at cruising speed
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not to meantion more area of filtration (depending on size)
(because my connection downright sucks I'm sure the video got cut off again before it was totally uploaded 
