Classic C.A.I. (track times too) pics are up!

[95mushroom]

Well sort of. By cold air intake I mean adding a cone air filter. Turned out to be a bit more then expected. Just wanted to see what a cone would do as I was going to the strip again Wed.

Anyway, basic concept was to remove the stock box and add a cone in it's place. I know all about the hot air, but at the drag strip, I let the car cool till I'm almost at the line and fresh air enters during the pass. I wanted to keep the stock elbow as it fits nice and is a decent thickness. Thinking of how to connect a cone filter to the elbow, ran to home depot and got a 3" PVC pipe, about 6" long and an extra pipe clamp. Went to Autozone and got the air filter. No name filter, but it has a filter on the inside of the hole at the end. I think all K&N's have a black cap there. The filter has inserts so you can use a 3", 3 1/2", or 4" tubes. Took it to 4" but it still didn't fit, had to trim some of the rubber on the inside off.







Here you can see the location. I was worried for a minute or two. Trying to put the filter in, I kept hitting the support bracket. But it clears it nicely. Currently don't have any supports, but will be adding shielding shortly.



Found a great place for the temp sensor. The old resonator hole! Used a gatorade lid (hard guess, right?). Drilled out a hole, the sensor snapped in, but was loose (the cap being thinner then the box) so put some foam tape under the ears on the sensor. It was also a little small for the elbow hole, so we wrapped foam tape around the cap. Got it to the correct size and the tape helps keep it on too. Pipe clamped it tight on there too.

So, the results from the track were somewhat disappointing. Ran 2 16.3's. That exacty what Supa ran w/o his shield. Hope mine will drop too, when I add it. However driving around town and even cleaning the tires, bottom end feels a ton stronger, though 60 foot times are the same. When I just punched it trying to clean the tires before my second pass, it went crazy, tires peeling and wheel hopping. But I get to the light and it just goes quietly. Around town now, I can bark the tires quite easily everytime. Before it was one in a million. Also it added a loud intake sound. Not quite what I was hoping for either. Almost sounds like its down a cylinder. Have to get a vid clip of it.

All in all, I only spend $25 for the filter, 2 or the pipe and 50 cents for the clamp, so I'm not mad. Also, hopefully the times will drop after I add a shield. I hope to get the shield done and head back to track Wed. after the Hurricane (if its still there) as the temps are going to drop 50 is the low!!!!!

[stevensolds]

cool i hope it helps with the shield and everything. im pretty happy with the stock box, like to leave that the way it is. I can peel tires just about every stop too. its fun.



that looks like a knock off filter btw

[kobalt]

Looks excellent! A heat shield would help for sure.

[Custom88]

looks like a good start so far. you might want to consider a different filter though. Some of those off-brand air filters actually flow much worse than the stock setup. Some of them even RETAIN water for several seconds if you fill them up! A heat sheild should also do wonders for you.

[SupaStealth]

i was using that same filter for a good 8 months or so, i just switched to the k&n filter, didn't really notice much other than the quality of how it was made.

[95mushroom]

Thx guys. I just got the filter for temporary use. Definitely going to pick up a K&N or Cool Blue or something shortly.

Stage 1 of the shield mock is complete. Used thin cardboard that I transfered to thicker cardboard. Just gotta find someone who as sheets of a decent plastic.

Any ideas?

Note: The project might be delayed a few days because of Hurricane Wilma

[BuccaneersFan]

95mushroom said:

Thx guys. I just got the filter for temporary use. Definitely going to pick up a K&N or Cool Blue or something shortly.

Stage 1 of the shield mock is complete. Used thin cardboard that I transfered to thicker cardboard. Just gotta find someone who as sheets of a decent plastic.

Any ideas?

Note: The project might be delayed a few days because of Hurricane Wilma

Lowe's has Plexiglas that is not to expensive, although it's pretty thin so I don't know how much insulating it will do.

[95mushroom]

well its going to be wrapped in reflectix if I can find some at Lowe's or Home Depot. Local performance shops have similar stuff too. Going to look tomm. Hopefully lines are out the doors.

[95mushroom]

Excellent!

Just got back. I finished the box today. I use the Lucite (sp.) from Lowes. Lexan type product, but like half price and half as easy to use. Scoring it didn't work. Used a dremel till the battery died. Then used a soldering gun and the quick-snap off techique.

The box is 3 sided, side, back, and bottom. For the top I just use extra Reflectix that I ran long on the side panel and wrapped over. I am pretty happy with the results. I will be adding a top piece that can be easily removed for air filter servicing purposes. I was going to add a K&N filter, but it was a 3" filter instead of the 4" I needed. Will be posting pics soon.

The results
15.91 @ 87.17 mph! (Old time 16.28 @ 85.34 mph). That's a 3.7 tenths pick-up and almost 2 mph gain. Though the temp was 59 degrees with low humdity. That's probably where the gain came from. But whatever. I'm starting to dig the sound more. I'd say it's got a pounding V8 effect to it. I also didn't get to wrap the elbow as I was running out of time before the track opened.

Cost (I bought the parts in bulk as I am spliting them with my friend for his car too and will count the prices as half)

Lucite (sp.) $9
Reflectix $8
Hardware $5
Air filter $25
Foil Tape $3

Total ~ $50. Not bad. Probably one of the most cost effective mods ever, lol. Would just be as fast if I had Supa's straight pipes, or Steven's miles, as them. Kinda caught the modding bug again. We'll see what's next...

[SupaStealth]

awesome!, yep, it's addicting and fun, lol, did you ever go to the track when your car was stock?

[Custom88]

I'll be doing the same thing shortly. What exactly is meant by "scoring" the plexiglass? I was going to mark where I needed it cut, cut it slightly with my dremel, then snap it. Will that work? I've never worked with the stuff before.

Looks great btw. I'd just suggest painting that gatorade cap black so it doesn't stick out so much. .

[stevensolds]

Now all you need Shrooms is to at least get some mufflers. That way since you are opening up (well i think you are..) the intake more, hopefully, now just get the rear straightened out a bit and that thing will really rip.

[95mushroom]

Dan, what I meant by scoring was, using my box cutter to put multiple groves in the plastic (dunno what that Lowe's stuff is). Didn't go deep enough. Just cracked the plastic randomly when I tried to snap it. Using the dremel with the roto-zip bit is the best method, just cut all the way through. Was working great till the stupid Dremel died.

Steven, still thinking of what to do. Thinking a true dual 2" setup with an X-pipe would really open things up. That would also help out the front bank's crossover pipe Bob was talking that is restrictive. Also, it's only 2" pipe per bank, so there's still some backpressure. Only parts would be 2 mufflers, 2 tips, a X-pipe, and a ton of labor. That's would be a little bit of ways away though. After x-mas definitely.

[SupaStealth]

yeah, the only thing with that is you'll need another cat then, won't you? but yeah, 2" would work, i was looking at doing it on mine and myopening on there was 4.5" at the smallest point so that should be fine. but yeah, i'm pretty sure you'd need another cat, and then you would need a y-splitter for the connections that plug into the cat, at least on the 98 anyways(i have two precats then the cat after they go into one pipe.)

[stevensolds]

I was looking at SS pipes, that T crossover thing (had exhaust shop look at it for an hour) and a high flow cat, the parts werent that expensive, but since the rora is a little bit harder to work on. All in all total cost for just them was going to be $580. I couldnt do it, but I sure hope that would open things up a LOT more for that much dough, besides looking better.

[Custom88]

I don't see much benefit with going to a true dual exhaust stytem. The stock pipe is large enough for a stock or lightly modified engine. I don't think you'll notice any improvement and it could actually lessen your performance. I'd suggest exhaust manifold work if possible, new mufflers, and converter. I don't think you'll notice huge gains on a stock engine though.

[95mushroom]

Supa, 95's don't have to worry about that stuff. Only O2's in the manifolds.

Dan, true that it's just might the small gains over a set of mufflers, but I'm thinking it's going to be a similar amount ($) to the other idea I had and that was to replace everything from the manifold back in 2.5" (i.e. a Corsa knockoff with Magnaflow stuff).

I'm also incorporating more then power gains. 1.) It would be a first an Aurora that I know of, and 2.) I think it would sound totally killer.

But either way, its still some time away so we'll have time to discuss this.

[SupaStealth]

You lucky duck you

[95mushroom]

Alright, finally got the pics from my friend's camera. Happy with the results. I said eariler, I spilt this project with a friend so I only paid $50 for my share. The box is 3 sided, bottom, side and rear. I wanted to add a top piece, but if you look at the 4th pic, you'll notice there's a support bar for the front core that crosses through the box. The cone actually rest against the bar. Adding a top panel would been near impossible because the lexan is was using was not a good one. The Lucite (sp.) stuff from Lowe's. Cracks way too easy. I also was able to hide the gatorade cap IAT sensor mount behind the Reflectix. The box is built with L-brackets and bolts and nuts.

I also get comments about everything being wrapped in Reflectix, "Is that intake from NASA?"

Anyway, the results posted eariler too, were a 3.7 tenths pick-up coupled with it being 20 degrees cooler. Also, the intake sound is awesome, IMO. It's very, very similar to Dan's clip if his. The difference being you can tell its a V8 due to V8 noises being emitted.

Note, the strut bar is being painted...



Also, noticed the limited space available. The cone I used is rather larger and is too large to fit in/out of the box through the top panel. So a quick access panel would have been pointless.


Notice the black bar running diagonal across. I had to work the box around that.

[Aurora40]

95mushroom said:

Steven, still thinking of what to do. Thinking a true dual 2" setup with an X-pipe would really open things up. That would also help out the front bank's crossover pipe Bob was talking that is restrictive. Also, it's only 2" pipe per bank, so there's still some backpressure. Only parts would be 2 mufflers, 2 tips, a X-pipe, and a ton of labor. That's would be a little bit of ways away though. After x-mas definitely.

The only problem with the crossover is that it's all smushed up in order to fit. It has to squeeze between the motor and tranny. This is why it's all narrow. I'm not sure you could just run 2" pipe through there.

I'm sure these motors would just scream with headers and a decent exhaust, but it's just too hard to fit it, and there's no real aftermarket making solutions.

I think a 2.5" single would probably have similar gains and be a whole lot easier to do. But if you can fit duals and want them, go for it. Should be cool.

[95mushroom]

aurora40 said:

The only problem with the crossover is that it's all smushed up in order to fit. It has to squeeze between the motor and tranny. This is why it's all narrow. I'm not sure you could just run 2" pipe through there.

I'm sure these motors would just scream with headers and a decent exhaust, but it's just too hard to fit it, and there's no real aftermarket making solutions.

I think a 2.5" single would probably have similar gains and be a whole lot easier to do. But if you can fit duals and want them, go for it. Should be cool.

Will have to take a look. I just briefly remember your pic and it seemed if the plate was removed/reworked it wouldn't have to be squashed up. I believe it could hang down a bit as that part of the motor isn't too low.

Yea, I do realize 2.5" collector back would be easier, but as said before, it's more of a sound/cool factor. Also, I am somewhat justify the extra plumbing cost with the 2" into the fact that I wouldn't need a cat or resonator.

It still is sometime away, and if I just maybe go with some Magnaflow mufflers in the mean time, I might just be satisfied with those and go 2.5" later.

[stevensolds]

yeah thats what i was gonna do. I hit the dynomax's first and after a couple months was satisfied with how they sounded..very satisifed infact. Adds a lot of cool factor too. I just cant get enough of that V8 sound.

The 2.5" i am looking at like $250-$300 to have it installed (i think that place is WAY too high). I said the hell with it for now. proly wont ever get to it either.

nice job with the reflectix btw it looks great. i think u should look for a K&N though

[sp00ky]

are these things really putting up high 15's? I have a little bit of stuff done to mine and ran a 15 flat.. i'll have to find my timeslips to prove it.. I just have a K&N with a modded airbox, a conefilter where the resonator used to be, a hollowed out cat, a missing resonator, but it's piped, and run 94 octane pump gas

[kobalt]

This would make you the fastest classic on the board - post the timeslips as soon as you find them. You can email them to me if you have problems with hosting.

[SupaStealth]

yeah, a 15 flat is pretty quick for a classic, i'd be happy to see the timeslips

[vanolds]

Hey Guys, This all looks good. I'm considering an APEXi dual-cone filter and 3" intake tube with insulation for my intake set-up. For realtime data on exhaust mods check out this link: www.caddyinfo.com/northstarperf.htm . You'll find pix on RMS Racing throttlebody mods, too, as well as time slips, graphs on various mods on both Aurora 4.0 and Caddy 4.6, including three different ways of muffler size/pipe size combos. Check them out!

[95mushroom]

Thanks I thought about an a/f intake tube, but a) they're metal thus being more prone to heat-soak and b) 3" is considerably smaller then the factory tube.

That caddyinfo page is a great resource and has been around for quite a few years now. I think some of the newer member will find it interesting though...