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Post by latenight72 on Aug 14, 2007 14:17:13 GMT -6
sounds good.
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Post by cherry2002 on Aug 19, 2007 12:19:16 GMT -6
Just thought I would add my $.02 here -- I just replaced the front bushings and endlinks and WOW...the car has very little lean now! It's great! That was my one main complaint about the Aurora was that it had way too much lean....now it's great! It's a nice balance of comfort and performance.
How much of an improvement did you guys find with the replaced bushings and rear STS swaybar?
Chris
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Post by latenight72 on Aug 19, 2007 12:31:07 GMT -6
about the same as you. But I still have the flimsy aluminum under the front mounts, so I am sure that's hurting me a good bit..
-Todd
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Post by cherry2002 on Aug 19, 2007 17:18:42 GMT -6
Gotcha. I'll need to do the rear next -- did you find a STS rear swaybar in a junkyard, or did you just order one?
Chris
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Post by latenight72 on Aug 19, 2007 17:27:56 GMT -6
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Post by cherry2002 on Aug 20, 2007 9:11:37 GMT -6
Todd do you know what year STSs we can grab this thing off of?
Chris
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Post by 95mushroom on Aug 20, 2007 9:25:43 GMT -6
Todd do you know what year STSs we can grab this thing off of? Chris 1998-2003 Try and grab a earlier one then, not sure if the switch to Magnaride changed the specs in late 02/03 though... |
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Post by oldsjake on Nov 12, 2008 17:06:58 GMT -6
So... The '01-'03 bar will interchange and it's the same part# bushing? The same for the rear as well?
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Post by diablo on Nov 13, 2008 16:28:30 GMT -6
so all aftermarket polybushings don't fit stock settings on classics? I would have to use a plate to account for the dip in the frame?
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Post by psron on Nov 14, 2008 1:36:22 GMT -6
LateNight - What was the deal to do with the hardware for mounting the rear bar mounts... seems the top and bottom mount holes are different? This really needs to be on the suspension sticky I just did the full front upgrade, links and mounts with steel plates. Do the rear bar mounts use/need plates with the same dimensions? I run 255ZR40 Kumho tires (on 8" Boss 318 chrome wheels)... that was my first "suspension" upgrade which was a HUGE jump in handling accuracy. aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=tires&action=display&thread=12095&page=1#129107I just got my car back today with the front upgrades (I had other front susp. & A/C work being done, so had them install my upgrades)... haven't had enough drive time to give the upgrade a "grade". WARNING!!! Don't ever try to "upgrade" the front lower control arm bushings! I had ordered a set of Energy Suspension 33167G bushings that said they were for the '98 STS (same as my '98 Rora), in the meantime my mechanic had removed the OEM bushings from one control arm before we found out there IS NO REPLACEABLE BUSHING for the front position... not even OEM. I had to buy a salvage yard control arm... a $100 ouch! Can't find a cradle mount bushing set... they are somewhat complicated. I rebuilt my front & rear engine/transmission mounts... BOTH were torn and floppin-loose. I use the Forsch Polymer 80a Urethane compound from McMaster Carr... it required 2 of the 1 pound kits to do both mounts. If I had it to do over, I would use the 60a durometer... this uses a massive amount of urethane, 80a ends up too hard for the application. My Left/Driverside lower hydraulic trans. mount was still good, not going to touch. The Right-upper engine mount was in "OK" condition, I deemed it not worth messing with since it would not affect engine torque-related movement. The front/rear mounts are what should keep the engine from twisting fore & aft under acceleration. FWIW - when prepping the mounts for pouring the urethane, I recommend finding thin plastic/PVC to cut to shape to block off one side, then HOT GLUE it to the mount (which MUST be totally cleaned of any/all oil/grease) Maybe I'll make a thread on this... see if it becomes sticky... if interested. I have lots of pictures and good advice from the polymer mfr. Other worthwhile mods - Deep Cryo-treated drilled & slotted rotors AND PFC's carbon-metallic pads. No rotor cracks or warpage, and pad wear is incredible! I used to go through pads in a year... I'm over 2 years and still going strong! Looking for a solution to a EGR simulator/eliminator... I hate cleaning my EGR valve every year. |
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Post by latenight72 on Nov 14, 2008 2:00:13 GMT -6
psron, I'd suggest looking over Centennialman's thread. He's got some pictures in there that show how the rear mounts will need to be mounted. Yes, a pair of plates will be necessary. aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=nextgeneration&thread=5862diablo, all Aurora's, G-Bodies have the pockets in the frame. The plates will be required. oldsjake, are you looking to upgrade your bar to a '01-'03 STS or Aurora bar? Both are larger than your current bar. I'd suggest also looking at Centinnialman's thread. He explains it better than I can.
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Post by diablo on Nov 14, 2008 14:30:34 GMT -6
anyone got some stainless steel laying around?  it seems to be quite a pain in the ass to mod these cars in the slightest way... |
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Post by latenight72 on Nov 14, 2008 22:19:23 GMT -6
anyone got some stainless steel laying around? it seems to be quite a pain in the ass to mod these cars in the slightest way... I wouldn't use stainless steel. Way to expensive, and steel will be fine with a simple coat of paint. A flat-bar of steel should be no more than $10 at Lowe's/HD/Northern Tool, etc.. |
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Post by 95mushroom on Nov 14, 2008 23:59:39 GMT -6
anyone got some stainless steel laying around? it seems to be quite a pain in the ass to mod these cars in the slightest way... Yes and no. It's definitely a pain in some aspects. But it's cool (at least IMO) that when you mod the Aurora, it's actually you doing it. You have to figure out what will work, browse catalogs, consult people, etc, then construct/engineer the mod yourself. There's no instructions, just what you know will/should work. Then you sit back, and relish in what you've accomplished.  |
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Post by oneye on Nov 15, 2008 6:52:19 GMT -6
I rebuilt my front & rear engine/transmission mounts... BOTH were torn and floppin-loose. I use the Forsch Polymer 80a Urethane compound from McMaster Carr... it required 2 of the 1 pound kits to do both mounts. If I had it to do over, I would use the 60a durometer... this uses a massive amount of urethane, 80a ends up too hard for the application.
Mount rebuilding? Bring it on! I'm sure I'm not the only one here who would be interested in more info on how-to, resources, results from experience.
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Post by diablo on Nov 17, 2008 12:34:11 GMT -6
Actually, that sounds really interesting to me... I'm thinking that i'm having mount issues and i would love to upgrade to poly mounts. Oneye, it would be so awful nice of you to post a "how to" thread  |
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Post by oneye on Nov 18, 2008 5:32:46 GMT -6
Sorry, gentlemen, I meant to put that upper part as a quote, but for some reason don't get a 'quote' tag when I hit 'reply' -- tried to change the font but couldn't do that either.
Anyway, I did find the kits at McMaster Carr -- you have to search under Urethane, not Polyurethane. Quote -- Flexible Urethane— Offers high tensile strength, plus it's highly flexible, pliable, and water and abrasion resistant.
-40° to +180° F 10-20 48 Hours Black 0.0005" 60A 1250 25 1
8644K24 $32.33 Unquote.
I was interested in how to set up the casting, getting a correct center, results after putting on some miles, etc. Seems like it would be a great alternative to those pricey stock mounts.
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Post by LSkrabut on Dec 7, 2008 10:26:30 GMT -6
Any update on this process?
I know some of my tranny mounts are in bad shape. I am currently using the poor man's method, hoses within hoses in the gaps of the mounts to stiffen the moutns up.
What or how did you use the Urethane Oneye? Mix and poor it in to the existing mounts? Off The car of course? Clean them up so the Urethane mix sticks to the existing rubber? Some pic's would be wonderful to help explain the process you used, if you happen to have them.
I gather this would only be good for the front and rear mount, not either side mount or engine top mount?
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Post by oneye on Dec 9, 2008 5:47:26 GMT -6
I was quoting psron's earlier post about casting -- the materials availability quote came from McMasters. My sentiment's the same as yours -- interest in seeing pic.s or reading about how it has been, or could be, done. Seems like the process might lend itself to many other applications, like repairing connectors, weatherstrip, even broken plastic studs, for instance on dash parts
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Post by LSkrabut on Dec 10, 2008 8:37:22 GMT -6
Being a cheap person and after seeing the cost with the new ones which includes the metal frames. I even wonder about leaving the rubber or what rubber is left and just filling the normal air gaps with high temperture RTV and let the cure. Maybe since the space is rather large, do it sections (for drying purposes) at a time till the void is completely filled. Heck tubes of RTV is cheap compared to $200 new mounts.
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Post by ntrenn on Dec 10, 2008 9:33:30 GMT -6
It's not the $200 in mounts, but the 8 hours in labor it takes to swap out all 4 that's the bear.
Shop around, if you're patient, you can do all for less than $200 - and you know they'll work....
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Post by aweb80 on Feb 14, 2010 17:07:47 GMT -6
I plan on doing this as soon as it warms up around here....another month or so and I can do this w/o frozen fingers.
Can someone please clean up the info in this thread?
I have a 01 3.5 Aurora and need the part numbers for:
Stock sways
Front sway inner - 1 1/8" 9.5164G (already listed in OP)
Front sway outter - ?
Rear sway inner - ?
Rear sway outer - ?
can someone help me please.
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Post by aweb80 on Feb 19, 2010 19:25:16 GMT -6
anyone?
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Post by BuccaneersFan on Feb 25, 2010 11:14:23 GMT -6
I don't think this DIY was ever stickied. . . mods?
Edit: I see now that it's stickied under "Aurora Proformance" but this write up would also work for just replace the stock parts as well, so I would suggest putting under the "Classic Aurora Maintenance" section as well.
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Post by aweb80 on Mar 2, 2010 23:17:25 GMT -6
where is everyone?
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Post by aweb80 on Mar 14, 2010 19:56:25 GMT -6
I picked up the mounts from Pep-Boys, they had a display of a bunch of Energy Suspension poly components. The mounts are 1 1/8" (part no. 9.5164G), $19.99 for two. The endlinks are a future project, so we'll negate them right now. what's the PN for these? |
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Post by aweb80 on Apr 8, 2010 8:58:13 GMT -6
do the end links come with the main bushings? i'm going to do this tomorrow along with replacing my lower control arms with low mileage ones and hopefully this will stiffen up the steering
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2010 9:14:23 GMT -6
I don't think this DIY was ever stickied. . . mods?Edit: I see now that it's stickied under "Aurora Proformance" but this write up would also work for just replace the stock parts as well, so I would suggest putting under the "Classic Aurora Maintenance" section as well. This mod is not for a classic aurora. The two main posters who started and posted in this thread seldom view or post on the forum any more. I believe your best bet is calling and asking part stores if the links do come with the bushings. |
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Post by aweb80 on Apr 21, 2010 17:33:55 GMT -6
well, if anyone is still wondering about this mod.....well worth it. i did the front and rears, outers and inners. (the rear inners are a chore) i also changed my front lower control arms as those bushings were shot. this car rides awesome now
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Post by sall on Jan 30, 2012 12:03:48 GMT -6
well, if anyone is still wondering about this mod.....well worth it. i did the front and rears, outers and inners. (the rear inners are a chore) i also changed my front lower control arms as those bushings were shot. this car rides awesome now Yep. Can't agree more. I did front and rear end links and sway bar bushings about 2 years ago. If you don't mind fabricating the brackets small amount of money for a huge difference in ride. I just greased them over the weekend so dug up this thread! Mine came from prothane I can probably pull up the part numbers if anyone needs. |
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