Post by nyst8ofmind on Jan 25, 2009 20:40:39 GMT -6
This is how I replaced the power steering pressure line in my 3.5. I'd say it's A way, not THE way.
This is about a 4 hour job, took me longer because I didn't have the part when I started and I spent a good amount of time cleaning up the mess the old leak caused.
I didn't empty the p/s reservoir because I had fresh fluid from the pump change I did 2 days before. I'd recommend it if your fluid is old. I used a suction gun to empty it or you can just disconnect the low pressure return on the other side of the pump.
Be careful not to damage the retainer clamps when removing them, your new part may not come with new clamps. Mine didn't' and I had to fab a new bushing for one of them.
Start by jacking and supporting the car with stands, I couldn't use ramps because I needed to pull both front wheels.
Familiarize yourself with where the line runs down from the pump up the frame to the front of the car where it loops back up over the anti-sway bar into the power steering rack.
Remove the power steering pressure line from the pump with a 16mm wrench. You won't get much more than some fluid drips from this.
Remove the pressure hose retainer clamp that mounts to the engine just above the belt tensioner with a 10mm wrench. It's tight quarters but I was able to get to it w/a short wrench w/o removing anything else. This is where my leak was, the rubber bushing inside of the clamp fell apart and the metal clamp cut into the hose.
Now get under the car and remove the hose retainer clamp that mounts to the frame with a 10mm socket. You can see what a mess this leak caused.
Release the plastic retainer clip that mounts the metal portion of the line to the frame at the front of the vehicle where the line loops back.
Release the 2nd plastic retainer clip that mounts the metal portion of the line to the frame in the center of the car below the heat shield.
Position a pan under the p/s rack and loosen the pressure fitting with an 18mm wrench.
These next steps I found necessary to get the pressure line removed and installed in one piece, I actually cut mine to get it out before I realized performing these next steps would have gotten it removed in one piece.
Remove both front wheels
Remove the sway bar end links from the control arm with a 1/2" socket on both wheels.
This will allow the sway bar to flip down out of the way under the car to give you the clearance you'll need to lift the hose assembly out.
You may need or want to remove the power steering heat shield for more clearance. I removed mine for clearance and to clean all of the old fluid buildup off from the leak. It is held on with (2) 10mm bolts at the top. I was able to get a small socket in there no problem. The shield also has a wire loom fastened to it.
Here is the old pressure line I cut to get out compared to the new one.
Of course installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to lubricate the new fittings with fresh p/s fluid and install the new o-rings on the pressure fittings. Tape the fittings off to prevent damage or dirt from entering during installation and snake it into place.
Remove the tape and thread the pressure fitting into the p/s rack end and tighten with an 18mm wrench.
Insert the metal line into the plastic retainer clip on the frame below the heat shield.
Insert the metal line into the other plastic retainer clip at the front of the car near the loop.
Install the metal hose retainer clamp and bolt it to the frame with a 10mm socket.
Remove the tape from the pressure fitting on the pump end and thread it into the pump. Tighten with a 16mm wrench.
Install the metal hose retainer clamp and bolt it to the engine with a 10mm wrench.
Install the p/s heat shield if you removed it.
Install the sway bar.
Install both wheels.
I checked the fluid level, started the car and let it run for about 2 minutes giving the wheels 1/4 turn in each direction while the car was still off of the ground. Topped it off and let it run again turning the wheels side to side. No leaks, no groans!
This is about a 4 hour job, took me longer because I didn't have the part when I started and I spent a good amount of time cleaning up the mess the old leak caused.
I didn't empty the p/s reservoir because I had fresh fluid from the pump change I did 2 days before. I'd recommend it if your fluid is old. I used a suction gun to empty it or you can just disconnect the low pressure return on the other side of the pump.
Be careful not to damage the retainer clamps when removing them, your new part may not come with new clamps. Mine didn't' and I had to fab a new bushing for one of them.
Start by jacking and supporting the car with stands, I couldn't use ramps because I needed to pull both front wheels.
Familiarize yourself with where the line runs down from the pump up the frame to the front of the car where it loops back up over the anti-sway bar into the power steering rack.
Remove the power steering pressure line from the pump with a 16mm wrench. You won't get much more than some fluid drips from this.
Remove the pressure hose retainer clamp that mounts to the engine just above the belt tensioner with a 10mm wrench. It's tight quarters but I was able to get to it w/a short wrench w/o removing anything else. This is where my leak was, the rubber bushing inside of the clamp fell apart and the metal clamp cut into the hose.
Now get under the car and remove the hose retainer clamp that mounts to the frame with a 10mm socket. You can see what a mess this leak caused.
Release the plastic retainer clip that mounts the metal portion of the line to the frame at the front of the vehicle where the line loops back.
Release the 2nd plastic retainer clip that mounts the metal portion of the line to the frame in the center of the car below the heat shield.
Position a pan under the p/s rack and loosen the pressure fitting with an 18mm wrench.
These next steps I found necessary to get the pressure line removed and installed in one piece, I actually cut mine to get it out before I realized performing these next steps would have gotten it removed in one piece.
Remove both front wheels
Remove the sway bar end links from the control arm with a 1/2" socket on both wheels.
This will allow the sway bar to flip down out of the way under the car to give you the clearance you'll need to lift the hose assembly out.
You may need or want to remove the power steering heat shield for more clearance. I removed mine for clearance and to clean all of the old fluid buildup off from the leak. It is held on with (2) 10mm bolts at the top. I was able to get a small socket in there no problem. The shield also has a wire loom fastened to it.
Here is the old pressure line I cut to get out compared to the new one.
Of course installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to lubricate the new fittings with fresh p/s fluid and install the new o-rings on the pressure fittings. Tape the fittings off to prevent damage or dirt from entering during installation and snake it into place.
Remove the tape and thread the pressure fitting into the p/s rack end and tighten with an 18mm wrench.
Insert the metal line into the plastic retainer clip on the frame below the heat shield.
Insert the metal line into the other plastic retainer clip at the front of the car near the loop.
Install the metal hose retainer clamp and bolt it to the frame with a 10mm socket.
Remove the tape from the pressure fitting on the pump end and thread it into the pump. Tighten with a 16mm wrench.
Install the metal hose retainer clamp and bolt it to the engine with a 10mm wrench.
Install the p/s heat shield if you removed it.
Install the sway bar.
Install both wheels.
I checked the fluid level, started the car and let it run for about 2 minutes giving the wheels 1/4 turn in each direction while the car was still off of the ground. Topped it off and let it run again turning the wheels side to side. No leaks, no groans!
