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Post by Marc on Feb 7, 2005 18:56:41 GMT -6
Zipzag...You are right. EOS is an abbreviation for Engine Oil Supplement. ___________________ GM!!! BRING BACK OLDS!!!
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Zipzag
Aurora Watcher
96 Aurora , GM Collision Tech
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Post by Zipzag on Feb 8, 2005 19:20:33 GMT -6
Marc thats not what i was talking about, i mean with your experiance and what was said in the manual
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Post by Marc on Feb 8, 2005 19:47:28 GMT -6
As I said, the EOS stopped the oil burning in that 442. I think that the EOS is very heat resistant. I also used somewhat more oil in the pan. The owner's manual for the 2001 Aurora said not to use any EOS. I really don't know why. _______________ GM!!! BRING BACK OLDS!!!
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Zipzag
Aurora Watcher
96 Aurora , GM Collision Tech
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Post by Zipzag on Feb 12, 2005 8:02:18 GMT -6
Well, the gaskets, seals, and metals are different then the classics, using differnt adhessives, and such. The EOS will acually breaks these composites down.
I was just asking Mark if you liked the stuff, for the classics, if you would if you had a classic keep using it.
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Post by anthraxfan93 on Apr 13, 2006 13:20:28 GMT -6
Has anyone used the "Royal Purple" Oil? I have been turned onto to it recently, going to be putting in into the car next oil cahnge.
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Post by vojtazbrna on Apr 14, 2006 7:31:45 GMT -6
There's at least one guy here who uses it...try search.
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Post by mjh48059aa on Oct 25, 2007 17:16:37 GMT -6
first dont tilt your car for an oil change , keep it level, your leaving old oil behind, remember theres two oil pans and two heads you want all the oil out and oil does break down and it does get contaminated {gets full of carsiniagens}, thats why its a health risk so in a way your both right , never jack your car up and go under, use stands, even if your just reaching under, somtimes you just dont realize how far your reaching under {like maybe your head is under the rocker for a few secs }those spare tire jacks are the most unstable things ive ever seen ,there as bad as bumper jacks, and make sure you lube any rubber seals you see {plug and filter} and i recomend EOS with every change. cold is faster BTW the oil will have already drained from the heads and case. Actually, once you stop the engine, the oil will drain from your heads before it has time to cool.
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Post by mjh48059aa on Oct 25, 2007 17:18:39 GMT -6
I've changed oil in cars both warm and cold. Warm is faster. Especially so in the winter, but when the engine is warm, the oil will pour out almost like water, compared to the oil in a cold engine where it might flow more akin to maple syrup.
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Post by mjh48059aa on Oct 25, 2007 17:29:42 GMT -6
I do understand why some people would rather change the oil when cold from a safety perspective, but I've burned my hands enough times with hot motor oil that I don't even notice anymore But at my age, I'm starting to get tired of trying to clean that old oil from under the fingernails and stuff. Maybe I'll try out a pair of rubber gloves and see how that works out.
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Post by dennis on Nov 10, 2008 17:11:48 GMT -6
Thanks again Kobalt. I always refer to this before I change the oil for a refresher. Perfect job-no spills. ;D
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on Nov 23, 2010 18:38:12 GMT -6
Well, the gaskets, seals, and metals are different then the classics, using differnt adhessives, and such. The EOS will acually breaks these composites down. I was just asking Mark if you liked the stuff, for the classics, if you would if you had a classic keep using it. Actually the owner manual for 1996 says GM doesn't want me to use EOS or just wants me to buy EOS from them?
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on Nov 23, 2010 18:41:33 GMT -6
How can I avoid getting burned if I change oil hot? I am really a beginner
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Post by Marc on Nov 23, 2010 18:57:54 GMT -6
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on Nov 23, 2010 19:49:18 GMT -6
Thanks. Price around $30? I'll wait for a deal on it.
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Post by roara on Nov 23, 2010 23:59:51 GMT -6
How can I avoid getting burned if I change oil hot? I am really a beginner Maybe not do it hot? Let it cool for a while or run it for a few minutes if its cold. I usually throw on some latex (doctor type) gloves when working on the cars. Just helps keeps the hands clean until they rip! Also keeps gushing/dripping oil off the hands but does NOT protect from heat. Remember too, be ready with 2 gallons of oil! These engines take at least 7-8 qts of oil. I always fill the new filter with oil to near-the-top then screw it on, then fill the crankcase.
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on Nov 24, 2010 0:34:36 GMT -6
What about Goggles? No one mentioned that but I think for me that's definitely necessary. I dont want that nasty stuff to get on my face/eye.
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Post by roara on Nov 24, 2010 1:11:33 GMT -6
Safety eye-wear is a good idea when working with tools or machinery of any kind, if you plan on keeping your eyes for a while. Oil will wipe off but might be uncomfortable if its actually in your eye
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Dec 1, 2010 10:39:38 GMT -6
I've changed my classic's oil somewhere around 10 times now. Drive it until you get to full operating temp and let it sit for a while, 30 minutes should do it. Even a little longer if you wish. I wouldn't recommend changing it hot even with gloves. If the oil is hot then the engine is too, and you will have your arms up in there. Touching the bottom of the engine is inevitable. Besides, if some of the oil got on your arm (which it probably will if it's your first time ;D) it would burn pretty bad. I've changed it pretty hot before because I was in a hurry and didn't wait for it to cool. It wasn't fun. Roara is right though. 8 quarts for sure! and don't forget to lube the seal of the new filter and the drain plug with some of the new oil. Those seals will bake onto the block if they aren't lubricated. Your filter may be hard to remove. I'm a firm believer in shoving a screwdriver all the way through it and twisting it off that way (it's messy but fun haha) but I would recommend getting an oil filter wrench instead to ensure it comes off properly. All in all it's not too bad. You'll enjoy it once you get comfortable with it! I can't wait until I get to change my oil later this month. I never use goggles. I probably should, huh? Oh and wear work clothes... You'll get oil on whatever you're wearing your first time too haha.
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Post by avsnords21 on Oct 3, 2011 0:22:34 GMT -6
I used your thread here to change my oil for the first time a couple of months back. Easy peasy. Thanks. I only had 1 issue. I had/have a small leak from the plug. I tried a new plug and that didnt help. I then purchased new washers, no help there. Any ideas of what to do next?
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RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,853
Staff Member
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Post by RCA1186 on Oct 4, 2011 9:54:19 GMT -6
Maybe the plug isn't tight enough?
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Post by lanceslambos on Oct 4, 2011 11:13:14 GMT -6
what Collins mentioned about the screwdriver should be a last resort. i had to do that one time on another car and once the filter started just tearing i had to use vice grips and get them onto a tiny lip that was all that was left. of course someone had way overtightened it.
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Post by 1996autobahn on Apr 15, 2012 12:07:08 GMT -6
A great thing about doing my own oil change is that it helped me to be more aware of what oil works best in my car also. found that my classic hates conventional oil and loves synthetic, but most recently found that 10w30 high millage is exactly what she needs to get rid of her tick on the top end. As for advise to add to this post. 1. Always check to make sure that the oil filter o-ring comes off with the old filter before you spin the new one on, yes sometimes it does stick to the oil filter housing. 2. To minimize the risk of spilling oil on the driveway while changing oil simply put the drain pan up and under the bolt to catch the oil right after the drain plug comes out. 3. I also like to buy a filter that has a good flow threw rate, and an anti drain back valve inside. Plus a grip on the outside so that you can take it off with a shop towel. 4. As for oil leak at drain plug, the first thing that I would do is to check to make sure that the new plug washer has the built in rubber ring and that it isn't just a washer. have to say I'm loving this site! learning a lot, and contributing where i can.
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lawdog
Aurora Groupie
Who do I have to bribe around here to get a better search engine?
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Post by lawdog on Feb 23, 2013 11:15:39 GMT -6
Also too one thing I do to prevent a mess is to unscrew the oil drain bolt by hand (once loosened) while pushing it into the oil pan. Once you feel it free of the threads then quickly pull it away and you won't get any oil on you.
I then unscrew the oil filter till it spews oil. Once it stops dripping off the filter I wipe it off and finish unscrewing it by hand. Fill the new one up, lube the ring and hand screw back up. Put the oil drain plug back in, and add 7.5 qts and your good to go! No mess, no fuss.
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