Put a new battery in her. This is the third one since buying it in 2001. The batteries seem to last about five years.
The same with both my Aurora's either Napa or the AC delco ones, they last about the same and they sit the most in my fleet of cars! I dont know if there is a battery that last longer in our cars or not?
The alternator decided to go out on me so that was my night yesterday haha
What was the symptom ? Battery drain or any deadly noises...?
Funny thing was, I noticed as I turned into the parts store where I was heading for Throttle Body cleaner for the girlfriend's car. Turn signal was going super slow, so I flipped on the voltage readout, 12.5 volts while running. With the A/C off and not blowing full speed I could hear the death whine as well. Popped the hood and it smelled a little burned, alternator top looked near black. I was able to limp it home luckily.
Last Edit: Sept 11, 2018 5:30:43 GMT -6 by RCA1186
Post by pictishusa on Sept 23, 2018 16:19:40 GMT -6
Sanded and primed the one and only rust spot on Rorie, bottom corner of passenger door , hopefully will hold through winter till i can afford to have someone professionally fix it, just bought it this last week, changed the oil with full synthetic, got two new back tires, two flowmaster 40’s and new tips, L.E.D headlights and front turnsignals, car has a very loud whistle, was told by the mechanic its the exhaust manifold gasket thats blown so this bext week ill get that squared away and then I’ll be completely broke so I’ll just have to drive her, i gotta say i Love this car like a kid in a candy store, haven’t been this excited about a car since my very first car!
Post by aurora57k on Sept 24, 2018 10:28:50 GMT -6
Picked up a resistor for the blower as mine was doing the intermittent working, not working thing... My AC and heater works perfect now.... Now I can freeze or bake, that is an AMAZING HVAC system!!! Thanks for all the info, reading the threads saved me days and maybe weeks of diagnostics.😎
Today I am going to take it out of town and find a stretch of hiway that is empty enough to get it over 100 mph. The last time I did that the car loved it. It seems to be running a lot smoother since that day. I figure it can't hurt it as most of my driving is in stop and go city traffic ( besides I like going fast)😀😀
Last Edit: Sept 24, 2018 10:35:32 GMT -6 by aurora57k
98 non-bahn, all stock, sunroof, Bose, chrome wheels, bright white/tan leather, 84k miles 97 non-bahn, all stock, sunroof, beige/tan leather, 297k miles 96 Cutlass Supreme SL Coupe 3.1, all stock, bright white/blue cloth, 99k miles
This afternoon, I cleaned all my stuff out of my Aurora. Now that I have my convertible, I'm finally ready to break up with her. It's just been taking up space in my driveway the past couple of years, so it's time for someone else to enjoy it. I'll be advertising it shortly and if it isn't sold by the time the license plate expires the end of December, my local public radio station will be getting a Christmas present.
A little while ago, I had to go out and pick up a prescription and since it's not exactly convertible weather today and I hadn't driven the Aurora in more than two months, I decided to give it a little exercise. The last time I drove it, I had to put the battery charger on it overnight before I could start it. This time, it cranked first try and without hesitation. I picked up my 'scrip and drove the car around until the 'low oil pressure' warning came on and then headed home the most direct way possible. It was a nice little nostalgia trip but the experience just doesn't match the convertible. On sunny days, I'm just a convertible convert.
Post by rustyshackleford on Nov 7, 2018 13:16:44 GMT -6
Last night I drained the cooling system to do a flush. When I went to add distilled water and the Prestone chemical flush I found a spring and gasket in my overflow tank. You couldn't see the spring before draining the tank due to some sediment in there. The cap looks like it's a new cap, could this spring have come from an old cap?
Last Edit: Nov 7, 2018 13:21:05 GMT -6 by rustyshackleford: added images (postimage.com links didn't work)
Post by rustyshackleford on Nov 18, 2018 12:26:30 GMT -6
Went to the local U-Pull-It and picked up a throttle position sensor (TPS), idle air control valve (IACV), PCV elbow, and cruise control module from a fresh 99 Seville SLS that found it's way to the yard. I didn't need the IACV, but since I was pulling it to make it easier to get to the TPS, I decided to pick it up anyway. It was cleaner than mine, so I cleaned it thoroughly with throttle body cleaner. Now I sit at 600rpm +- 3rpm according to my scanner.
I noticed last night I had a hairline crack on my PCV elbow at the intake manifold while I was giving everything a once over and looking at what I wanted to grab this morning from the junkyard.
Came home and replaced everything and now she's running like a dream other than the harmonic balancer vibration (http://aurorah.proboards.com/thread/31404/low-vibration-fades-constant-pace). I didn't know anything was wrong with the TPS, but it kept coming up occasionally as a code, but the readings seemed fine (0-100% range at closed and WOT and voltage was fine) but after I took it off I shook it, and it rattled, the replacement one didn't. I guess something was wrong because now the throttle is super smooth.
This car is so much better with functioning cruise control. I can't wait to take it on a nice long Interstate trip.
Also looked for an AC bypass belt but they were either already gone from the cars or were in poor condition. I think I'm just going to buy the AC bypass belt (745K6) from Advance along with a Dorman harmonic balancer. I have some coupons to use there, and I'll need to get the loaner tools anyway.
Another side note: I checked about 8-10 different Sevilles, Auroras, Devilles, and Eldorados and out of all of them I got 1 PCV elbow that wasn't cracked. The elbow that connects to the actual PCV valve from the hose was already gone on mine when I bought it and replaced with some rubber hose that does the job. I think that's what cracked the first PCV elbow though because it holds the plastic hose up at a weird angle. Gonna have to stay on the lookout for another one that isn't completely dry-rotted or see if there's a universal elbow I can find, I would think there would be.
Post by rustyshackleford on Nov 20, 2018 21:43:04 GMT -6
Swapped out the thermostat today. Wow, that cooled it down to under 200* even in the Florida heat with stop and go snowbird traffic. I was just doing it as part of my coolant flush, not thinking anything was really wrong with the thermostat since it normally runs at about 220-225* and other posts on the forum here say that's a normal temp so I wasn't too concerned. I'm glad I'm under 200 now though.
Noticed my oil pressure is now running higher than normal. It used to be 15psi at idle and would top out at 70psi max. I noticed it go towards 90psi a few times last night when I drove to Advance to pick up my harmonic balancer and new serpentine belt. This morning before it was completely up to temp I saw it hit 120psi. I decided to change the oil and filter since it hasn't been changed since I bought it (1 month and about 700 miles ago).
After the oil change it's idling at 30-35psi and goes up to 80-82psi sometimes even surging past 90 before it is up to temp. That concerned me a little bit, but I drove it for about 45 minutes/20 miles after the oil change even getting on the Interstate and it seems to be fine.
Is that oil pressure too high? I thought it might be the oil pressure sensor, but in most of the posts I read about that it seems to just report 130-131psi and stay there mine isn't doing that, so I don't think it's the sensor.
Mine runs with oil pressure similar to yours. I can check again today to be sure if I remember. Temp should be right around 200 at normal conditions with higher stress conditions in the 215-225 range.
Both the elbow at the PCV and where it attaches on to the intake are suspect. There is a Doorman "Help!" brand one at O'Reilly/Advance/Autozone that says it's for a Chrysler but it is a good snug fit and closest to the one I took off the car originally. That'll go bad too though, I'm on my second one (just changed it 3 weeks ago) in about 7 years with the car. Something about that hose likes to crack rubber elbows haha. Careful with the PCV grommet as well, tends to soak with oil and turn into a sticky soft gummy mess, makes for an easy "oops I pushed the PCV into the valve cover" moment. Lucky there is a baffle there that prevents it from falling all the way in- ie it's retrievable without pulling the cover. I know all this from....guessing...yeah..never happened to me...never haha
Post by lanceslambos on Dec 30, 2018 10:46:34 GMT -6
When I got back home last month from my 6 month stint in Utah I found my last minute spring paint job had gone to crap. After all of the BS with the 4.6 install I'd rushed coats between dry times and after sitting outside in direct sun for half a year it resembled cracked clay mud on a pond bank. I guess I got the coats a little heavy lol. Now to correct this I'm stripping all of the silver paint off with aircraft remover and a puddy knife. It looks so bad right now! The flip side of this is a tweak to my original scheme. Its pretty difficult to work around the mirrors for instance along the very top of the door in that corner so I won't be repainting with any color. That means she will be sporting her naked steel, highly sand polished like a mirror and shining in all its glory lol.
I will be protecting that with Clear Shot - a self leveling, non yellowing, rock hard, multi purpose & multi surface exterior clear coat. In lieu of this she will continue to shed weight on her diet. Paint jobs on cars weigh 1 oz / sq ft. on average. This is considering 3 coats of primer, 3 color coats and 3 clear coats. Pearls like my factory white diamond weigh more. My hood is also bare aluminum and the top was taken down to primer before the roof wrap. Wraps are also lighter than paint jobs but are usually added on top of the factory paint. By calculating my bare surface area I estimate a loss of 10 pounds and a gain of a pretty cool look.
A before and after I left image
yikes, cracked mud
taking it all the way down...whew!
This time I'm not going to rush things but not much can really go wrong...knocks on wood
'98 Aurora w/ Accurate Engines port & polished VIN Y 4.6 bored.30 over, NSP stage 3 PCM, K&N intake, performance exhaust, Razzi skirts, Lund wing, strut bar, custom paint, went on a diet and lost 160 lb.
I've begun the process of swapping my interior lights to white LED... finally.. after mulling it over for years haha. Have the cluster done already. Man does it look good with bright pure white light behind it. Epoxied the clips back on to the black outer B-pillar trim as well. I suspect I'll be visiting the salvage yard for another one of those (this was already a yard one) in the spring. Perhaps I'll grab every one they have while I'm there.