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Post by ntrenn on May 19, 2011 21:10:20 GMT -6
Unless you are perfectionist, you don't need to measure runout on the rotors. If you are, you can buy a functional dial indicator and magnet base for about $20 at Harbor Freight.
If your brakes aren't pulsing, generally you don't have either a waviness issue or a runout issue with the rotors and they don't 'need' turning. I'm with Oldwino - I've run 2-3 sets of pads through a single set of rotors. I turn rotors as a last resort as nobody can turn them to specification.
The last time I looked up the specs, they were 0.002 inches max thickness variation, 0.005 max runout, and 15 microinches surface finish+circular polish. No average brake lathe can do the surface finish and they have a bit of a time with the other two.
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Post by Rocinante on May 20, 2011 22:26:14 GMT -6
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 25, 2011 13:02:32 GMT -6
I've replaced brake pad and rotor, OMG 3 men 5 hours+1 man 3 hours............ I will pay a shop $200 to do it..... I sucked out brake fluid from the reservoir, but maybe let some air get in I don't know.... I plan to bleed the system anyway
I forgot to plug in ABS sensors so ABS/ TC light on... Hopefully the wires are not broken.....
The condition of the rear brake: The new pad touches new rotor. It can still move, but rear right it's pretty tight... We hammered in the caliper. Is this normal? Do I need to do something to fix it? I feel it may hurt gas mileage and make the pad/rotor wears faster. When I turn the rotor without wheel on there was a bit noise... I don't know if I can hear it if the car is actually running.
Parking brake test... Ok, but not great.
Pedal pressure. I haven't finish bleeding yet. Pedal was firm but not after I started the engine. So I guess I need to bleed the system. Just waiting for a friend to come. I have a 32oz NAPA DOT3&4 brake fluid. Is it enough for bleeding the system? I tried like 15 times on rear right but still no clear fluid out....
I am frustrated and exhausted.... never expect brake job to be so comlicated....
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Post by dynamic1964 on May 25, 2011 14:47:39 GMT -6
Brakes is very easy if you done it before but its no game the first time. Did you lubricated before you mounted back? Hammering back calipers are not particularly good. There is security we are talking about when it's brakes. The pistons were well completely depressed and screwed into the calipers? That's why I always injects some WD 40 inside the seal. Lets any more come in and give you advice.
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Post by robaurora01 on May 25, 2011 16:47:43 GMT -6
you used that tool right to push the caliper back in? and new pads and rotors won't affect your e-brake your e-brake has its own parking shoes on disc brakes that are inside the rotor.
that small grinding noise/hard to turn a bit its nothing major and won't do any harm, did you use dieelectric grease on your slider pins?
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 25, 2011 20:49:39 GMT -6
I didn't use any lube or grease. Just sprayed brake parts cleaner all over the place...... Then read somewhere else said I shouldn't have used brake cleaner on rotor surface... I made so many mistakes forget about the boot(for the long bolt), forget to plug in wheel speed sensor and bleed valve cap, release pedal with valve open, tightened lug nuts before lowering the car........... The brake seems fine so far... I tried to bleed the system. But I sucked fluid out of master cylinder twice, but every time I can only suck out about 1/3 of fluid in the reservoir because the reservoir is devided into 3 areas. After refilling the reservoir to full, the fluid in reservoir is not clear...(Yes I poured in clear fluid) So there is no way I can get clear fluid at bleeder valve...... It took us an hour to bleed rear right wheel and still the fluid is light yellow...... I only bleed two rear wheels...... that's so exhausting.... How can I get clear fluid? How long should it take?
About jacking up the car, the jack point said in the manual is pretty messed up on my car(bent). I do not know why that never happened before I got the car..... This car is so heavy that my jack cracked the pavement at advance auto's parking lot..... And the suspension makes it extremely hard to get the wheel back in. I have to jack up the car at least 14'' to put the wheel back in... Usually I just dig a hole on my gravel driveway to install the wheel....... But on paved parking lot surface, I had to buy another jack......
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 3:24:01 GMT -6
ull never get clear fluid its supose to have a slight tint to it so you can see where it is on the res and your supose to bleed the system at the brakes itself not the resevoir.
I think at some point you had a few people give you some bad advice while doing it ( not on the forum ).
as for using brake clean to clean the rotor its not that big of a deal your pads will clean it anyways its just for making sure it doesn't rust in its protective box and plastic
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 26, 2011 9:03:26 GMT -6
I tested parking brake, but it cannot stop the car in neutral on a slope.(it could before I changed brake pads/rotors) Without wheels on, I set parking brake and I couldn't turn the rotor by hand. It seems parking brake and regular brake uses the same rotor and pads. Does it indicate my rear brakes are not working properly?
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 13:42:38 GMT -6
it does not use the same pads it uses the pads on the inside of the rotor if it use to do it before and doesn't now then it needs adjusting because everything you did had nothing to do with your e-brake system
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 26, 2011 15:18:02 GMT -6
pads on the inside of the rotor? I changed rotors as well. Do you mean it's in the hub? I can barely understand the manual on parking brake. A few more tests, parking brake can stop the car in neutral on a flat road, but not in drive On a slope it cannot stop the car from going forwards/backwards. Is there a write up to adjuster parking brake? I think there should be a screw on the caliper(very close to parking brake lever) to adjuster it. Not totally sure yet.
I hate taking wheels off...... So hard to jack up the car, and put wheels back on... of course lug nuts......I've done this at least 10 times in 3 days....
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 16:36:35 GMT -6
none on GM's. ford have it tho ( might be mistaken for all GM's I know all with Drums have it )
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 16:38:09 GMT -6
where this guy is pointing his finger, is the adjuster
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on May 26, 2011 16:54:07 GMT -6
They are supposed to self adjust... engage and disengage the e-brake several times. Might need to be in reverse for it to work, not sure.
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 26, 2011 16:56:54 GMT -6
Is it a ford in the pic? I probably have seen it somewhere On my car it looks different Do I need to take caliper off to work on parking brake?
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 16:58:35 GMT -6
never heard of reverse but if your e-brake pads are too low it won't work properly either, notice how nice and new that picture shows how they are supose to look? heres a pic of what worn out ones look like: see the left side of the pads how worn it is? compared to the new ones posted above?
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 16:59:34 GMT -6
and yes you must take the caliper once again off to get at the e-brake pads. also no that is a pic of a toyota
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Post by tipsymcstager on May 26, 2011 17:07:42 GMT -6
where this guy is pointing his finger, is the adjuster didn't know auroras had drum brakes...............lol but if you had drum brakes yup, thats the adjuster, selfadjusts by driveing backwards fast and slaming on the brakes two or three times! now if you have rear disks (and you do) your e-brake adjuster is just under the drivers door! part #7 (overall) and looks more like this,and clamps the pads on both calipers mechanically rather then hydraulically parts 27-30 the real MCcoy turn the nut, on that threaded rod till it starts tightening the cable, if it looks like mine a little penetrating oil will help a ton!
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 17:09:28 GMT -6
that is not a proper adjuster, the adjuster is behind the rotors. I leave that one at factory settings because playing with it is just wrong and asking for cables to snap
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Post by tipsymcstager on May 26, 2011 17:21:52 GMT -6
OH, my bad. wonder why it's listed as e-brake adjuster then? worked the last time i adjusted mine guess it's just there for looks? *edit what do you adjust on the calipers? it's one moveing part with a return spring?
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 17:42:12 GMT -6
its not it has an adjuster its not the caliper itself your adjusting its the actual adjuster for the e-brakes on the inside of it.
you know what im not gonna argue with you you tend to think you know it all when it comes to cars even tho I do it as a living I don't know everything but I sure as heck do know what a apprentice block 1 guy knows
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 26, 2011 18:12:08 GMT -6
Kinda confused............. I am pretty sure reverse+regular braking doesn't not self-adjust parking brake. I do it on daily basis to get down the driveway at the speed of 2mph..... or even a complete stop.... to avoid hitting the well and rocks......
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Post by tipsymcstager on May 26, 2011 18:57:40 GMT -6
Kinda confused............. I am pretty sure reverse+regular braking doesn't not self-adjust parking brake. I do it on daily basis to get down the driveway at the speed of 2mph..... or even a complete stop.... to avoid hitting the well and rocks...... it does, but only on drum brakes. with the self-adjusts like in that pic! not disk brakes! the adjuster is in the cable! and rob, i work on cars all day long! all kinds, all makes for the last 30+ years! no i don't know everything, nobody does! but i sure know when i'm right!!!! and i back it up, with part #'s, placement, and proper descriptions! plus correct pic's for people that don't know, that i'm trying to help! ADJUSTER,PARK BRK CBL ACDELCO Part # 25537451
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Post by robaurora01 on May 26, 2011 19:13:35 GMT -6
just to prove my dam point even tho I don't need to tomorrow after work im going to tear my rear brakes apart and take a picture and post it up just to prove you wrong because we all know all mighty tipsy is never wrong and believes NOS is such a great thing to use
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Post by tipsymcstager on May 26, 2011 20:06:59 GMT -6
ROTFL, whatever bro, but be for warned. the parking brake sys on an alero is NOT the same on an aurora! and i think thats the problem! if it looks like this,(and it does) the "mighty tipsy" is still right and your alero is just as it should be! you getting mad at me, for a slight mixup. and it's no big deal!
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Post by robaurora01 on May 27, 2011 16:23:05 GMT -6
I did not have a chance to do it tonight so I will be doing it tomorrow
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 28, 2011 18:59:08 GMT -6
Waiting for the update. I checked alldata, not to my surprise it's not helpful at all 0.5 hours labor... that's all I can understand in alldata......
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Post by robaurora01 on May 29, 2011 8:36:27 GMT -6
sorry I had to go to the hospital for the gf yesterday or esle I would of had it done. monday after work if they allow me ( since its their shop ) ill tear it apart and take the picture
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Post by tipsymcstager on May 29, 2011 13:08:53 GMT -6
RD,i'm going to give you a real simple DIY! this is NOT to prove someone else wrong or right! or to take some cheap shot, like was taken at me! i went out this morning and pulled the rear brakes off to and poped some pic's for you! START: loosen the lugs on the ground,till freed up! get a jack under the cradle, and pick up the car till the rear wheel is just off the ground! heres a couple shots of the mechanical e-brake actuator at the caliper! you'll find nothing adjustable there, only on that cable i showed previously! you will NOT find an adjuster screw assembly, like on drum brakes, or a secondary pad like found on an ALERO!!!!pull the e-brake cable bracket off and take the ABS wire clip off that, to give you a little room to move the caliper around. pull the bottom bolt off the caliper, you may need to slide the spacer back a little. tilt the caliper up, till clear of the rotor. and push the top to slide it off the pin pads coming off, you can leave the clips on the bracket! as a side note, thanks to you it looks like i'll be doing pads and turning the rotor for real next weekend, that looks atrocious! i got about 3/16s left on the pads!no more duro-last pads for me! if you need to get the caliper bracket off pull the two bolts off in the back and it'll fall off in your hands! the butterfly screw on the piston, to move it in and out! on a lot of pistons a C-clamp and block of wood is what you'ed need. not an aurora! this is the special i use(ed), BUT you'll be better off renting the tool to make it a little easier on yourself! it's a case of do as i say, not as i do! no offense intended, but i have the experience that allows me to take shortcus like this! and now an opinion of why only one of your sides may only be applying, for your e-brake! when you put the caliper back on. the piston may have been too far in, on one side, if you take the caliper off and screw the piston back out a little, till it's tighter going back on you may find you may not have to adjust the cable! seeing it was working fine before!bleeding: no reason you should have to, just replaceing the pads and or rotor! but if you have to. the best tool you can have for that job is a one man bleeader kit! fill the bottle about half full with fluid, push the appropriate fitting into the bleeder valve and and open the valve! when you pump the pedal two or three times you wont have to worry about air drawing back in, as the siphon works like a bong, and only fluid is drawn back in! then you can go back and close the valve! remember to start at the farthest wheel from the master, and make sure the car is nice and level when it's all back together (or just the rotor and caliper on) when you spin the rotor, the pads should be just making contact, and you'll hear a slight rubbing from the pads (i'm a video, click on me) this was done my me in about 30-40 mins, but you take your time, and if you run into trouble PM me and i'll try to help the best i can! the "mighty tipsy"................LMAO
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Post by dynamic1964 on May 29, 2011 13:34:24 GMT -6
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Post by tipsymcstager on May 29, 2011 14:55:08 GMT -6
at the risk of sounding like a know-it-all (LOL ) yes sir, them are the 4 bolts that hold the hubs in place!
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