Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Feb 16, 2012 23:38:36 GMT -6
westersgarage.eidnet.org/Westers garage states you can order a tune for your '95-'99 Aurora. "V8 4.0L 32-Valve Engine
Custom tuned for your application. Speed limiter removed, VATS, custom tune for any application."Also supports Aurora Shelby options. "1999 V8 4.0L 32-Valve Engine
Custom tuned for your application. Editing software available--see our software page."westersgarage.eidnet.org/GM.html#OLDSMOBILEMessage from Lyndon from Westers, pulled from another thread. "After reading through this thread...I see a couple of computers mentioned that were to be sent up to us. I can only assume these are the ones AJ was referring to, that 'they' were going to do for someone here. I'd like to honor that request--anyone wanting a performance tune for their 1995-1999 Aurora--just drop us a note for a VERY special discount. Where Northstars and Auroras are really tuned ! ; ) Lyndon Westers Garage www.westersgarage.com" Here is another killer deal recently offered by Westers to our forum. "50% off till February end. $247.50 (+freight) for a full tune. Speed limiter removal $100+freight. PS...there's no way to make a switchable tune with the 1996-1999 ECM, so people can stop asking about it. Lyndon Westers Garage www.westersgarage.com" ACNA is not endorsing this product at this time, nor are we confirming or denying that our Classic Auroras can be tuned. When we obtain solid, verifiable results, it will be discussed then. In my opinion Westers seems very legitimate. It's tax time people!! $250 for a custom tune for our cars!! That's insane!!  Feel free to address and discuss anything here, Lyndon says he will drop in when he can, but he says his days are hectic and the best way to reach him is by email. I myself would like to know the specific details of what a tune does exactly for our cars? Kind of a quick "for dummies version", lol. Westers email: lwester@telusplanet.net I do ask that people bring any good info back here and share it with us. Of course that's up to you, but you know we are all dying to know and to see some actual results from someone!
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Post by wireless on Feb 16, 2012 23:45:09 GMT -6
I will likely be sending him my PCM on Monday, judging that I have a reliable means of transportation in the meantime.
I will post after videos =)
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Post by auroradude on Feb 17, 2012 1:00:47 GMT -6
I'm sending mine too.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Feb 17, 2012 7:33:43 GMT -6
That's great news, guys!! Can't wait!! |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Feb 17, 2012 18:04:09 GMT -6
Very nice video, here by Westers Garage. That Caddy sounds immensely fantastic, it gives me goosebumps.
V i d e o.....this is that new technology thing I have been telling everyone about. It was just invented around 1880, so not very many people have cameras yet.
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Post by programmer on Feb 17, 2012 19:17:01 GMT -6
That car was a wee bit nuts on the road ! Customer has been having fun in it ever since. Dealership dropped it off after the tuning from the supercharger pulley and exhaust supplier hadn't really panned out. Took a few hours to dial in...never an issue afterward.
PS...I'd done one of these remotely with the largest Cadillac dealer in AZ, they had the car at the salt flats in Utah. (I'm guessing, there--as I never got to see the car perform) We got the car up to 197MPH in the salt. This was done via remote tuning--emails back and forth over a couple hours with Jay in Sept/Oct 2009. Unfortunately, we ran out of test time due to rain.
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Post by Rocinante on Feb 17, 2012 19:17:50 GMT -6
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Post by Marc on Feb 17, 2012 19:28:56 GMT -6
This contraption is merely a cheap little resistor that attaches to the IAT sensor & fools it into thinking that the engine is cold. When an engine hasn't warmed up, it needs a richer fuel/air mix.
That gives it more power. I think that somebody on here tried it a long time ago & said that all it did was to turn on the check engine light. There have also been discussions about these gimmicks on here from time to time, which always ended by saying stay away from it. If you want a good tune, go to Wester's.
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Post by wireless on Feb 18, 2012 17:11:57 GMT -6
I'm not sure if this is appropriate to post here,
but here is the information I am sending to Westers.
Hoping to be able to send it off Monday morning, but I still have to find a means of transportation while my beloved chip is gone!
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Feb 19, 2012 0:05:28 GMT -6
Sweet! How did you decide all those things? lol Just wondering. Why delete the vats? Isn't that just the key security key system? I don't want to get my hopes up from all prior failures, not meant to dis anyone by that either, lol, but we could be about to witness Northstar history here!! It's pretty exciting!! That car was a wee bit nuts on the road ! Customer has been having fun in it ever since. Dealership dropped it off after the tuning from the supercharger pulley and exhaust supplier hadn't really panned out. Took a few hours to dial in...never an issue afterward. PS...I'd done one of these remotely with the largest Cadillac dealer in AZ, they had the car at the salt flats in Utah. (I'm guessing, there--as I never got to see the car perform) We got the car up to 197MPH in the salt. This was done via remote tuning--emails back and forth over a couple hours with Jay in Sept/Oct 2009. Unfortunately, we ran out of test time due to rain. That's some good stuff!! |
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Post by wireless on Feb 19, 2012 0:28:01 GMT -6
Sweet! How did you decide all those things? lol Just wondering. In our corresponding e-mails, he gave me some recommendations for things to change. Here's my reasoning for a lot of it: Speed limiter: removed, completely, for obvious reasons. Why have one?! :b Cooling fan temps: My current fans don't even come on when I'm sitting in traffic and the car is sitting at 220/225F. That's a bit too high in my opinion. I don't want the fans coming on during regular driving / normal operating temp (195-200 ish). However, when it gets above normal (205) i want it to come on, and the high for when it's abnormally hot. Shift point changes: I decided to have the shift points changed marginally due to the fact that most of the cars power comes upwards of 3500+ RPMs, and even at 6 grand isn't stopping really. Hopefully this was the right decision and nothing goes kaboom!  EGR: I'm honestly just taking his advice on this. He states that disabling the EGR harms gas mileage, but helps performance out. He advised that I go with a blend. He's been very helpful so far. Why delete the vats? Isn't that just the key security key system? When I purchased the car, it came with two keys - The regular key for the door, and the ignition key. I've seen what it costs to get a new key made, and I've also heard horror stories of people getting stuck due to a "dirty key" or some nonsense. lol I don't want to get my hopes up from all prior failures, not meant to dis anyone by that either, lol, but we could be about to witness Northstar history here!! It's pretty exciting!! I know! My main predicament is finding a car in the meantime. I'm likely going to rent a car (since shipping will take a while, as he is in Canada and has to pass through customs). I'm quite excited, though, to be honest. =) Hoping all works out well. |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Feb 19, 2012 0:52:56 GMT -6
That's some very good info. Some of the clearest answers we have had so far. Yeah I would disable the vats, too. Thought it might be something more. I found a whole extra ignition wired under my dash a while back. It is there for a bypass, lol, when I pull the second ignition key my car won't start, and I can use a non chip key in my ignition. For future reference, if you have any Ace hardwares, some of them cut our keys for $20. Too bad I could not help you, I have 2 '97 pcms stored away, and could part with one cheap, would probably even loan you one to save you some money, but you have a '98, and I don't know about the interchange on those. I don't think the rpms are too high, if it was mine, I would go higher, lol. And no speed limiter!!! For real?!!! And I think everything will work out fine. |
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Post by wireless on Feb 19, 2012 1:28:01 GMT -6
If it's an Autobahn, would it swap right in? Connectors are the same (underneath the glovebox they should just interchange correct?) am I correct? If not, oh well.
Overnight shipping would be awesome if you can manage to do that!
Of course I will pay for shipping, better than having to pay upwards of $200 for a rental car for at least a week.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Feb 19, 2012 9:15:39 GMT -6
Connectors are the same, but the pcms are different. If they can change the whole thing, though, it could work, and I would be glad to help. If not, you might try ebay, or car-part.com. I am sure one could easily be had for $50 or less.
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Post by Aurora40 on Feb 19, 2012 9:40:54 GMT -6
I thought the older gen 4.0 tended to float valves above about 6,000-6,100?
Also, just a thought, but if you turn the fan on at 205 degrees, what temp will you shut it off at? It has to be lower than 205, or else they will cycle on/off/on/off a lot around that temp. If you go 195-200, it may never get that cool. I wonder if like 210-215 for the kick-on point would give you more "room" for the shutoff temp. Maybe on at 210, off at 205 or something.
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Post by sall on Feb 19, 2012 10:10:32 GMT -6
I thought the older gen 4.0 tended to float valves above about 6,000-6,100? Also, just a thought, but if you turn the fan on at 205 degrees, what temp will you shut it off at? It has to be lower than 205, or else they will cycle on/off/on/off a lot around that temp. If you go 195-200, it may never get that cool. I wonder if like 210-215 for the kick-on point would give you more "room" for the shutoff temp. Maybe on at 210, off at 205 or something. I posted this the other day in cooling fan thread. So I'll repost here. Like to get all my ducks in a row as I am sending out my PCM as well sometime soon.  |
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Post by Aurora40 on Feb 19, 2012 11:53:57 GMT -6
Not sure what I'm supposed to read into that? You can see how the factory staggers the on/off speed too. On at 229F, off at 216F for one, on at 234, off at 229 for the other.
If you lower the on speed to 205, where do you turn them back off? The car has a 195F thermostat, and of course it's not perfect, and the temps in different areas aren't the same (therm location vs temp sensor). If the fan can't bring the indicated temp down below 200F or so due to the thermostat operation, how will it shut off once it kicks on?
Anyway, just put it out there as something to think about. Don't worry about it if you don't think it's relevant.
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Post by sall on Feb 19, 2012 12:23:47 GMT -6
Not sure what I'm supposed to read into that? You can see how the factory staggers the on/off speed too. On at 229F, off at 216F for one, on at 234, off at 229 for the other. If you lower the on speed to 205, where do you turn them back off? The car has a 195F thermostat, and of course it's not perfect, and the temps in different areas aren't the same (therm location vs temp sensor). If the fan can't bring the indicated temp down below 200F or so due to the thermostat operation, how will it shut off once it kicks on? Anyway, just put it out there as something to think about. Don't worry about it if you don't think it's relevant. Nothing to read into? I wasn't saying it wasn't relevant information at all. Just stating temps the fans operate at from factory for comparison. Merely spurring the conversation along because your points are valid but posting actual on/off and high/low temp and the operation for better understanding. I think it would be great to have the fans run for said amount of time after shutdown but lower the temp as well for that setting as well. Even if the coolant isn't circulating it may be useful. Why so defensive?  |
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Post by wireless on Feb 19, 2012 12:50:46 GMT -6
I thought the older gen 4.0 tended to float valves above about 6,000-6,100? Also, just a thought, but if you turn the fan on at 205 degrees, what temp will you shut it off at? It has to be lower than 205, or else they will cycle on/off/on/off a lot around that temp. If you go 195-200, it may never get that cool. I wonder if like 210-215 for the kick-on point would give you more "room" for the shutoff temp. Maybe on at 210, off at 205 or something. If I might ask, would it be possible for you to link me to something regarding the valve float? I would understand if I'm going to be at 6200 all the time, but I'm really not. If I turn it on at 205, I'm going to have it shut off around 202. My car rarely goes above even the 200 mark, so I think 205 is a good option. For the -high- fan point, I'd like it at 215, and to switch to the low at 205, then off at 202 ish. Also, I don't think there is a staggering, unless I'm completely missing the point your making? According to sall's photo, it goes like this. Off -> Low -> High. When turning off, if it hits high it: High -> Reaches 229 -> Switches to low speed -> low speed turns off at it's set temperature. or am I misinterpreting your point? :? |
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RCA1186
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Post by RCA1186 on Feb 19, 2012 18:28:56 GMT -6
What he meant was, low speed kicks on at 229 but off at 216 so its a bit staggered, he's asking, if you had it on at 205, if you were to follow the factory's pattern of staggering it, where would you have it kick off at?
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Post by wireless on Feb 19, 2012 19:55:37 GMT -6
i'd have it turn off at 205 ish period, lol
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Post by sall on Feb 19, 2012 20:00:08 GMT -6
i'd have it turn off at 205 ish period, lol Just curious wireless do you have a scanner/code reader capable of reading ECT(coolant temp)? Then you zone in on your average normal temp. This could help find that sweet spot. I'll start keeping tabs on mine digitally instead of the gauge and see myself as well. Then you know what temp to turn off. Make sense? |
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Post by wireless on Feb 19, 2012 20:43:39 GMT -6
Yeah, it makes sense.. No, I don't have a scanner / code reader |
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Post by Aurora40 on Feb 20, 2012 8:18:09 GMT -6
Why so defensive? Sorry. I couldn't figure out what your position was, and this being the "Performance" forum, I figured it's about a 99% chance it is some kind of refuting of common sense.  To the OP, you can't set the fans up to turn on and off at the same temperature. If so, they will rapidly cycle on and off around that point. 2 degrees separation might be ok, who knows. You can see GM used at least 5 degrees on the high speed setting, and 13 on the low. Also that fan on at key-off is likely for when the car is running in "limp home" mode with no coolant. Even 90% antifreeze would have trouble surviving 304F temps. |
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Post by Aurora40 on Feb 20, 2012 8:32:27 GMT -6
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Post by wireless on Feb 20, 2012 9:34:13 GMT -6
You're right - That was a good read. However, I don't personally think it'll be an issue, but I guess we'll see lol |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 1, 2012 7:43:42 GMT -6
Any updates?
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Post by wireless on Mar 1, 2012 22:19:47 GMT -6
He said he was going to be unavailable until this upcoming Monday. Due to personal reasons, I won't be mailing off my PCM yet, as I can't afford the shipping + car rental due to my funds needing to go elsewhere.  |
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 1, 2012 22:59:57 GMT -6
That sucks! But, I totally understand.
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Post by programmer on Apr 12, 2012 8:20:52 GMT -6
Just to let you folks know, my father passed away a couple weeks back, so it took a lot of my time as executor of his estate.
I'm basically back full time again...and thanks to the few that did send ECM's out. Feedback has been good.
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