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Post by mellowde on Dec 24, 2014 14:30:01 GMT -6
This sounds similar to my problem. It ended up being a speed sensor in one of the hubs that caused it. I took it first to a Goodyear and had them scan for ABS codes (don't do this, they couldn't do it but said they could) and then ended up taking it to a dealer and had them scan it. They identified it as the right front hub speed sensor. Replaced the hub and bingo! Problem fixed. The hub wasn't that hard to replace either; there is a how-to for it on the board. I would have your ABS codes checked at a dealer to see if they can figure out the problem! I didn't have to pay them anything to check it, I just told them I wanted to see what the problem was and once they told me I said I would have to think about it, looked at the how-to, and ended up fixing it myself. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using ProBoards I have an advanced (and expensive) scan tool and it shows no dtc codes in history or current while driving. It is capable of activating on a code while driving. And since the abs tcs computer on this vehicle is capable of monitoring wheel speed sensors for open, intermittent, or poor connection and storing a specific code for each on each of the 4 sensors I have discounted this possibility. My scan tool sees no problems at all. The lights come on for brief periods of time when they do light up (maybe 2-6 seconds at a time). I experience the engine control change and the momentary braking due to the incorrect signal being sent to the pcm and brake system. This is particularly noticeable at higher speeds when the lights come on/off briefly. And it is annoying as all get out at higher speeds do to the sudden change in performance of the car. I do want to solve the issue. I was able to find a used abs tcs computer for $34 on ebay with the same number as the one in my car. I will report back when installed to let you know if this solves the problem. There were a number of them for sale so apparently sales of this little computer are good, which makes me think it's a larger problem than I first considered on these cars. I have a fairly extensive knowledge of control circuits having worked in commercial hvacr field for over 30 years. I sell pc boards for a hobby thing and know that on-board pc boards fail at a higher rate due to solder cracks forming because of vibration and hot/cold cycling. (This problem is particular on Onan RV gensets and is so bad that most repair facilities now only use aftermarket boards that are double soldered to avoid callbacks). So I know it happens. The vehicle is now 20 years old and I assume the computer to be the most likely culprit at this point in time after doing the troubleshooting tree-process of elimination checklist. Unfortunately, the factory manual doesn't specifically say anything about intermmittents with no dtc codes for this system and is rather gibberish stating that if no dtc is present to check dtc codes? whatever that means. Sounds like cover thy rearend boiler plate stuff from the legal staff when the manual was composed 20 years ago. In any event the abs tcs computer is on its way and when I install I will report back.
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Post by cap10america on Dec 18, 2023 10:54:22 GMT -6
Hey all,
I realize this is an old post. However, my 03 had the brake, abs and traction control light on. My first attempt was to take the module off at my friends shop. Then take the module to another electronic shop to repair the cold solder joints. Turns out, the shop I took it too was super busy, took a long time and stated he could not get the cover open without bending the pins. My plan of action. Located a module with pump assembly. We took the module off and installed onto my Aurora. Lights are now off. Been driving it for a week and no issues. Bonus: no programming of the module was required. Extremely happy now.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Dec 23, 2023 7:05:43 GMT -6
Hey all, I realize this is an old post. However, my 03 had the brake, abs and traction control light on. My first attempt was to take the module off at my friends shop. Then take the module to another electronic shop to repair the cold solder joints. Turns out, the shop I took it too was super busy, took a long time and stated he could not get the cover open without bending the pins. My plan of action. Located a module with pump assembly. We took the module off and installed onto my Aurora. Lights are now off. Been driving it for a week and no issues. Bonus: no programming of the module was required. Extremely happy now. Did you match the code PERFECTLY? Because you are lucky, since a 2003 should require that the VIN match.
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