Front/Rear Tranny Mounts INSTALLED!

[sall]

Tack welded, sleeves cut and painted and installed. Front trans mount, check!

Just FYI that mount goes in the opposite way, V down. I also searched hard for the proper insert sans the cast mount. Nope, nothing turns up for the part number anywhere. So, stuck with this method.

[justmax]

Nice write-up sall!

Nice find too for the insert, it's a cheaper way that I wouldn't have thought of.

[sall]

Well, I cannot take credit for the repair only digging up the info, but thanks!. Which actually took the thread in a different direction than OEM but on a more cost effective scale. I didn't have time to wait 3 weeks to get the parts. Nor was I willing to spend $150-$190 on a piece cast I didn't need. Necessary items were already removed for easier access from alternator replacement.

Anyways, here is a picture where you can see the 'sleeves' made since the mount bolt through hole is a little shorter. One piece was 11mm and the other was 19mm. I used a piece of 3/8" O.D. - 1/2" I.D. steel pipe. I cut it with my metal chop saw, but a hacksaw would do fine if you don't have access to the chop saw. Shot them with some black paint to prevent corrosion. 1/2" washers would also do the trick. Shot from top of retroed mount:

[sall]

Alright I since I literally just finished up my whole week long project this morning. I went for a lengthy drive and wow. Even though the front mount does not take the grunt of force it certainly made a noticeable difference!

Took the opportunity to inspect the rear one for repair soon. I believe I can replace the insert in a similar way I did this one without removing the entire mount, but use the actual replacement insert. Only remove three bolts on the mount and the center through hole mount bolt. Remove insert. Slide new in.... hopefully. I will keep you all posted. This ride is awesome!

[55624096]

You guys are doing this the expensive way, Front mount sub is Anchor Part # 2493 about 10.00 dollars at auto zone. The rear trans mount is fixed with a insert, you don't need to buy the expensive junk for GM, Anchor part #3065 available at auto zone (probably have to order) for about $25.00. Total cost for smart guy is about $35.00 for front and rear tranny mounts. Works great.

[sall]

Aug 27, 2012 14:23:07 GMT -6 55624096 said:

You guys are doing this the expensive way, Front mount sub is Anchor Part # 2493 about 10.00 dollars at auto zone. The rear trans mount is fixed with a insert, you don't need to buy the expensive junk for GM, Anchor part #3065 available at auto zone (probably have to order) for about $25.00. Total cost for smart guy is about $35.00 for front and rear tranny mounts. Works great.

Yep if you read the last few posts then I am a smart guy. You're the one who authored the post I quoted...

My total cost has been you guessed it about $35. Front mount insert was $6.69 and 1/2 I.D' steel pipe was $3. Rear trans mount insert $25.89. Updating this write-up with the info to show these guys without having search the forum back a few years.

[RCA1186]

So couple of things from my experience with this yesterday. The main thing being that I'm not sure how OP removed the left trans mount without moving the sway bar. I was able to get it un bolted with normal tools but there was no way it was coming out until I un bolted the sway bar links and rotated the bar down and out of the way. This was on a 1998 not a 95 as reported earlier. And if this is the case, I'd recommend just removing the links and rotating the bar in the first place to give yourself more room to work.

This would also be a great time to replace the links since you're taking them off anyways (mine was toothpick thin on the drivers side from rust and snapped when I turned the bolt)

I also don't see how you'd be able to just slide out the insert on the left mount without taking the mount out completely as I had to pry with a crow bar to get the insert out of the bracket.

Also, jacking of the engine and trans was essential to line up both the through bolts and the bolts to the left mount. I'd recommend actually jacking up the engine just a bit before removing the mounts to remove pressure on the through bolts to make them much easier to remove.

All in all it was a pretty daunting and oily task haha. But this was mostly because very hard to reach bolts. Even with ratcheting wrenches and a swiveling head wrench they were still tough to get to but not impossible.

Overall I don't really feel much difference. Maybe a little smoother from drive to reverse to drive again, and it does seem to shift a little better between first and second.