Randy T.
Administrator 
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Apr 12, 2013 19:17:07 GMT -6
If you have a specialty tool that is necessary or helpful for working on your Aurora, '95-'03, post it here with info on why it is helpful, what it is helpful for, price, and where to buy it, or more or less relevant information as you see fit. If you have a question post it in a separate thread so we can keep this info clean and easy to decipher. Feel free to make unrelated comments, know they will be deleted, know that that's ok.  If we get enough interest and responses, we will see about getting this stickied. |
|
Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Apr 12, 2013 19:55:34 GMT -6
Harbor Freight Pulley Remover and Installer Set $19.99This tool is necessary to remove and install the water pump pulley(#3535846) on the drivers side front of your 4.0/4.6 engine, it is also necessary to remove this pulley if you want to remove and replace your crappy looking valve cover for a nice one. I think but I am not sure, that this would also work on the power steering pulley. Most pulley pullers will not remove this pulley, they will break the pulley, there is also a GM version you could probably find on ebay, but this Harbor Freight one works great. There is also a version that is for rent at most auto parts stores if you don't want to spend the $20, I think they call it a power steering pump pulley puller, I am not sure.  
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Apr 23, 2013 16:36:27 GMT -6
lol 10mm, 13mm, 15mm socket and a 7mm nut driver. You can almost dismantle the whole car haha.
|
|
bobsblue95
Super Moderator 
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
|
Post by bobsblue95 on Apr 23, 2013 18:47:41 GMT -6
You'll need some torx bits/drivers... T-55 for seat belts and suspension parts.
A few ratcheting box-end wrenches can be huge time savers... 10, 13, 15 are most helpful.
A multimeter with AUDIBLE continuity test!
FSM and patience!
Above all else, ACNA is the most useful diagnostic aid you can find!
|
|
|
|
Post by nelson480 on Apr 23, 2013 19:36:41 GMT -6
Duck tape. To silence the noises in the door panels!
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844 
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Apr 23, 2013 20:09:55 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by nelson480 on Apr 23, 2013 22:52:20 GMT -6
In all seriousness, my classic was horrid for that
|
|
XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
|
Post by XJSman89 on Apr 23, 2013 23:37:22 GMT -6
DUCT tape* ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by roara on Apr 24, 2013 1:21:38 GMT -6
 Duck Tape |
|
RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Apr 24, 2013 6:07:16 GMT -6
Duck Tape is a brand, thats what its called lol
But either way, I'd say the tool for removing the waterpump itself would be a good thing to have
|
|
XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
|
Post by XJSman89 on Apr 24, 2013 6:50:26 GMT -6
I'm aware, just pointing out that there are many brands to choose from haha
|
|
bobsblue95
Super Moderator
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
|
Post by bobsblue95 on Apr 24, 2013 7:37:23 GMT -6
Duck tape. To silence the noises in the door panels! I think that was only you Dan.  My door panels don't make noise (except the Bose equipped panels!) |
|
|
|
Post by sall on Apr 24, 2013 7:39:02 GMT -6
Yeah no panel noises here and I have had lots of stuff apart.
|
|
mjwalcott
Aurora Driver
Half the fun of modding a car...is fixing the bull that needed to be fixed first
|
Post by mjwalcott on Apr 24, 2013 9:35:09 GMT -6
a pack of cigarettes (or cigars) and a anger management class
|
|
|
|
Post by renaldo0613 on Apr 24, 2013 9:36:50 GMT -6
Sludge hammer
|
|
|
|
Post by renaldo0613 on Apr 24, 2013 9:37:44 GMT -6
lol 10mm, 13mm, 15mm socket and a 7mm nut driver. You can almost dismantle the whole car haha. Your so totally right lol |
|
Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on May 9, 2013 6:37:37 GMT -6
Bobsblue mentioned ratcheting wrenches earlier, those are a definite must have for working on Auroras. I noticed that this week the GearWrench 8 pc set is on sale at my hometown Sears store for half off normal price of $70, $35 is a killer price for this set. I have a straight set and a selectable set that are curved like a normal wrench, I have both metric and standard in those sets. I bought the wrenches when they were on half price like they are now. Except, I used layaway on a metric and standard set at the same time, $18 every 2 weeks and 8 weeks later you have your wrenches. You will not use the standard set hardly, so if you have an Aurora you will just need metric.
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on May 9, 2013 7:11:58 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by dynamic1964 on May 9, 2013 15:49:01 GMT -6
The best investment I've made:
Diagnostic Tools / Fault code reader that reads all codes as Aurora can have when she is in the worse mood!
Then some tranquilizers maybe when it's not the fault as the reader says.. lol
|
|
|
|
Post by renaldo0613 on May 11, 2013 20:08:33 GMT -6
Tie rod puller!!
|
|
|
|
Post by roara on May 12, 2013 14:44:52 GMT -6
Metric offset wrench set, especially when doing the serp belt tensioner. 13mm/15mm will be your friend.  |
|
|
|
Post by rayvaughan on Aug 30, 2013 2:24:34 GMT -6
I've only worked on one 'Rorie, and it's an '01 3.5.
To pull L. axle: OTC 7507 CV joint fork removing adapter +...
OTC 7508 17 1/2" slide hammer extension +...
A REAL slide hammer, not one of those dumb little dent-pullers -
I got the OTC 7703 10 pounder and love it. This combo had the
L axle out in under 4 seconds. Found all this @ Amazon, no sweat.
Maybe there's another trick that would work, IDK, but everything
else I tried was a miserable failure.
To pull R. axle: a cheap bicycle lock cable, the thinner the better.
(It's too much of a hair-weave getting the fork adapter in place
on the right side and the R axle is an easy pull anyway.)
Loop one end through the other behind the inner CV joint and
cinch it down to form a choker there. Feed the rest of the cable
to outside the wheel well in as straight a line as possible, hook
to the end of your slide hammer. Two bumps and the axle's out.
To install R. axle: Kent-Moore axle seal protector J44394. Do NOT
run the right axle in or out over a seal you wish to preserve without
this little plastic gem. Kent-Moore & ebay were the only places I
could find these.
I made a nice axle little seal installer with a 3/4" to 1 1/2"
galvanized pipe reducing bell and a 3/4" to 3/8" pipe bushing
threaded into the small end, then ran a 3' long 3/8" pipe nipple
into the bushing & finished the other end with a 3/8" galvie
pipe cap. Then if you're lazy like me, you can sit back and tap
the seal in from outside the wheel well this way. Not essential,
but saves on aggro. And you can always remove the nipple for
other jobs.
To pull front control arms:
IDK if this is typical or not, but trying to break the pivot bolts
on my '01 by hand on jack-stands got scary. I broke
out the impact for this. 18mm impact socket on the front bolts
and 18mm impact swivel on 10" extension for the rears got the
job done.
To torque down fr. control arm ball joint nut & aft front control
arm bolts:
Some kind of torque extender with either an 18mm open end
or a male square drive to which you can attach an open end
crowfoot. Getting such seems to be like harvesting chicken
lips, unfortunately. I was on the verge of cutting up/welding
together old tools to do this when I found a Matco 14mm
extender (BTA 14M) that fit a Craftsman 14mm hex to 3/8" sq
drive adapter I had. What a production to secure a tool that
should be common as dirt, sheesh!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by rayvaughan on Aug 30, 2013 2:38:42 GMT -6
BTW, I love this thread idea!! I will check this one on a regular
basis.
|
|
RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Aug 30, 2013 6:15:11 GMT -6
I universal adapter for your wrench. Deep sockets.
|
|
|
|
Post by navajoninetynine on Aug 30, 2013 6:21:48 GMT -6
Don't remember the tool number, but the special oil filter cap socket that I use for Sly's 2nd-gen!
|
|
dogora
Aurora Groupie
Posts: 150
|
Post by dogora on Aug 30, 2013 10:35:02 GMT -6
Rear brake piston tool.
|
|
XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
|
Post by XJSman89 on Aug 30, 2013 12:01:52 GMT -6
YES. I monkeyed around with this for an hour before I realized I needed a special tool. It was $7 at Oreilly. A definite must have. |
|
|
|
Post by nyst8ofmind on Aug 30, 2013 12:33:58 GMT -6
YES. I monkeyed around with this for an hour before I realized I needed a special tool. It was $7 at Oreilly. A definite must have. Been there, I bent the handle on a c-clamp trying to push the piston in, someone on here pointed me in the right direction. |
|
|
|
Post by Kersh on Aug 30, 2013 13:02:03 GMT -6
...and for the days you don't want to do it yourself...A mechanic who LIKES working on Northstars
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Aug 30, 2013 13:31:22 GMT -6
...and for the days you don't want to do it yourself...A mechanic who LIKES working on Northstars Ah if I don't feel like it I do it anyways. No one touches my car unless it mounting and balancing tires or alignment. I trust no one even with a simple oil change haha. |
|
If we get enough interest and responses, we will see about getting this stickied. 
,xxxmi and halfway running, Beater, needs extreme help, all chipped paint and everything. Scrapped
