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Post by awehlage on May 11, 2013 11:47:38 GMT -6
Want to enhance the look of the 2nd Gen tail lamps so I have decided to add 2 LED rings per housing. The outside ring is 60mm and the inside ring is 80mm. Both rings will have a diffuser to concentrate the light. I have custom made a PWM to provide dual intensity illumination. Here is my progress: Housing opened with LED's for mock up (w/ reflector):  Housing opened with LED's for mock up (w/o reflector):  LED Running Light Intensity:  LED Stop Lamp Light Intensity:  *I had to paint the housing a metallic silver as the chrome had pits and scratches.   Still need to mock up the LED rings with the metallic silver painted housing and snap some pics. It will definitely decrease the output put I don't think by much. Next steps are to mount some polycarbonate lexan to the back of the LED ring diffuser and drill and tap 4 mounting screws per ring to attach the the tail lamp housing. After I close up the housing I will be painting the tail lamp housing to color match the car (see my signature for what i'm talking about). |
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Post by Deleted on May 11, 2013 12:04:08 GMT -6
I rather like that idea! I think that may add quite a modern touch to an aging car. Good work!
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Post by sall on May 11, 2013 12:28:58 GMT -6
Yes! Finally an ACNA post haha. Still planning on leaving your existing PnP bulbs in there and using them to fill the rings with brakes? I see the LED reverse lamps too  Great stuff for the 2G crowd. Darn louvered Classic tail lamp assemblies. |
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Post by awehlage on May 11, 2013 14:25:34 GMT -6
Still planning on leaving your existing PnP bulbs in there and using them to fill the rings with brakes? I see the LED reverse lamps too Yes I think I will keep the PnP bulb but only for stop lamp purposes and not running lamp. The LED reverse lamps put out 917 lumens at 1.0amps. Makes my reverse camera at night look much brighter! Sent from my XT901 using proboards |
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Post by my1stluv on May 11, 2013 17:06:59 GMT -6
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Post by renaldo0613 on May 11, 2013 20:03:47 GMT -6
Nice!!!
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Post by nelson480 on May 11, 2013 21:23:48 GMT -6
looks good
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tim1993
Aurora Driver
99 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V8
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Post by tim1993 on May 12, 2013 6:42:40 GMT -6
Dude your like a pro at this stuff but it looks good tho
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Post by awehlage on May 12, 2013 13:44:32 GMT -6
.25" thick Lexan cut to fit inside the 60mm LED diffuser, drilled and tapped.  In the 60mm diffuser.  |
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Post by sall on May 12, 2013 14:09:43 GMT -6
Looks great! Hahah who comes up with this stuff  Now instead of epoxying... just drill and tap a set screw from diffuser ring to lexan. This way if ring ever goes bad it's an easy swap and not a whole new ring assembly needing built. |
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Post by roara on May 12, 2013 15:07:22 GMT -6
Nice job man!
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Post by awehlage on May 13, 2013 21:20:23 GMT -6
Put clear silicone in the project box to mount the PWM to run dual brightness for the LED rings   Left tail light mounting holes (4 holes for the mounting screws and 1 smaller hole to run the wires)  Right tail light mounting holes  *Ran into a bit of a snag tonight. When I opened the second tail lamp a couple weeks ago, I left it in the oven too long and it started to get soft and warp out of shape....tried to fix it tonight but now its trashed. Can't find the right temperature. 200*F is too low, 250*F is too high. Probably somewhere in the middle for 7-8 minutes should be the magic numbers. Need to get another right tail lamp before I reseal the two halves back together. Off to the JY or ebay.... |
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Post by nelson480 on May 13, 2013 22:06:51 GMT -6
I have a set...
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Post by sall on May 14, 2013 6:49:25 GMT -6
 Hmm... I usually always do 265*F for 7 minutes or 20 at 200* for something stubborn. I'm sure you will find the sweet spot! I see some flaws in the PWM though that were overlooked. Which might cause some issues. No input or output vreg capacitors... and heatsinks. Nothing to worry about though. However, if that silicone is cured by acetic acid(vinegar smell) it will corrode the PCB. |
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Post by awehlage on May 14, 2013 9:13:19 GMT -6
Do you have a capacitance calculator you use?
I can easily add 4 per board (2 vregs per board). I have heatsinks but I ran 2 LED rings at running intensity for 1 hour...very little heat and ran 2 LED rings at stop lamp intensity for 30 minutes and it was warmer but nothing crazy. I could touch and hold my fingers for a minute.
Sent from my XT901 using proboards
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Post by sall on May 14, 2013 9:20:22 GMT -6
0.33uF tantalum on input 47uF electrolytic on output. Output is the more important one. Sorry about that. I thought I mentioned it when talking about the 4th pin pull down resistor but I looked back and I guess all I said was pull down resistor missing. Not sure how that was an oversight Current draw is probably relatively low, but good insurance none the less for heatsink. I've been using 9v'ers lately so they produce more heat because it's linear regulator and that's what they do. Dropping ~15v to 9v. |
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Post by awehlage on May 14, 2013 9:59:49 GMT -6
33uF tantalum on input 47uF electrolytic on output. Output is the more important one. Sorry about that. I thought I mentioned it when talking about the 4th pin pull down resistor but I looked back and I guess all I said was pull down resistor missing. Not sure how that was an oversight Current draw is probably relatively low, but good insurance none the less for heatsink. I've been using 9v'ers lately so they produce more heat because it's linear regulator and that's what they do. Dropping ~15v to 9v. ESR value? Ripple current rating? Sent from my XT901 using proboards |
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Post by sall on May 14, 2013 10:27:29 GMT -6
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Post by awehlage on May 14, 2013 11:33:57 GMT -6
Gracias
Sent from my XT901 using proboards
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Post by sall on May 14, 2013 11:37:21 GMT -6
I don't know why I wrote 0.47uF(I corrected it) but the link is correct.
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Post by awehlage on May 21, 2013 0:21:17 GMT -6
New PWM PCB with Toner on Traces (added input/output capacitors...thanks Sall...and LED light)  PWM PCB Toner Removed  One PWM Running One LED Ring (Each PWM can run two LED rings)  One LED Ring at stop lamp intensity, one LED ring at running lamp intensity  Tail lamp housing halves sealed with methyl chloride and silicone for extra protection (still need to jb weld and silicone the LED ring mounting screws)  Tail lamp housing front view  Running Light Intensity  Stop lamp intensity  Stop lamp intensity close up  Need to secure mounting screws to back half of housing and then will be wet sanding, buffing and polishing lenses as soon as the weather cooperates. Have to put on the rubber weather stripping and then wire it all in! |
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Post by sall on May 21, 2013 5:57:09 GMT -6
Looks good!
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Post by lkraft92 on May 21, 2013 14:05:35 GMT -6
That looks really good. I can't wait to see this on the car.
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Post by renaldo0613 on May 21, 2013 19:50:37 GMT -6
Looks great. Its bright on my laptop, so i can only imagine the intensity of it in person.
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Post by wireless on May 22, 2013 1:16:20 GMT -6
That looks fantastic. Love how the silver makes it look as well, much better than the chrome lol
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RCA1186
Administrator 
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837 
Staff Member
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Post by RCA1186 on May 22, 2013 11:30:22 GMT -6
Thought you had a blue bulb in the reverse lamp at first haha, was gonna say..looks great except for the blue reverse light lol
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Post by awehlage on May 29, 2013 17:57:42 GMT -6
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Post by sall on May 29, 2013 18:58:48 GMT -6
Sexy. Yep, the camera can never catch it like yours eye do. I know it looks great though! Got to love the one off project. What's next haha. |
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Post by awehlage on May 29, 2013 19:13:14 GMT -6
Sexy. Yep, the camera can never catch it like yours eye do. I know it looks great though! Got to love the one off project. What's next haha. Custom CAI then laying low for awhile.....maybe Sent from my XT901 using proboards |
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tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on May 29, 2013 19:57:09 GMT -6
Looks great!  |
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Hmm... I usually always do 265*F for 7 minutes or 20 at 200* for something stubborn. I'm sure you will find the sweet spot!
